Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: cram on June 03, 2018, 04:19:01 PM
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Anyone on here tried using PVC foamboard (foamex) for terrain boards?
I'm looking at creating a new wargames table. I've recently picked up some good solid folding picnic tables cheap at a shop closing down sale. 2 tables at 2.5 x 6ft and 4 smaller tables at 2.5 x 1.5ft . I plan to lay out all these tables and then lay a series of boards on top to create a playing surface of 6ft by 11ft, which is the max size I can get in my garage with room to walk around. obviously there will be several 1ft gaps under the boards between these tables to create a playing area of this size.
I was thinking of not using the traditional method of MDF, but instead using 10mm thick PVC foamboards. I've heard this stuff is very tough and doesn't warp, it is also lightweight, and not too expensive.
Any thoughts on this please?
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It's good stuff and mould resistant. Main issue is finding adhesive which will glue the stuff together, most 'normal' glues don't hold
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You will need to tack it to the tables (double sided tape or wraps of duct tape) as the stuff is so light and smooth that the slightest knock will cause seismic shifts of the game surface.
Also make sure it does not overhang the table edge as any downward pressure on one end will flip up the opposite. Again, a result of its rigidity but very light weight.
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It'll be sand on one side for desert (Sudan) and grassed on the other, hopefully the sand will weight it down a bit if I put a good bit on! I'll look at some method of lightly clamping it in place too.
What if the gap between tables was 2 feet, would the board at 10mm thick be robust enough to hold the weight of figures on it or would it bow down without support under it? I'm looking at having the length 6ft of table then a 2ft gap then 3ft of table with the smaller tables if that makes sense!
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I use 4x8 blue foam (1"thick) sheets.
i built a outside frame of 1x4s, 10 feet long by 4 feet.
The sheets drop in, securing them and making it a stable, heavy table top (it is set on two 4 foot high dressers which hold terrain and stuff.
I also tried a 4x8, FOUR inch thick board of beaded white foam. it is heavy enough to be used without outside wood frame.
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I work with foamex quite a lot on signage. I would say, even at 10mm thickness, it would be too smooth and flexible to provide a suitable base for terrain. Although in small tiles it might work. But not in big sheets. Whatever aggregate surface you apply would just flake off.
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I would fully expect serious warpage. Unless you had some sort of rigid framing. If you want light weight, you could use insulating foam. Or, maybe build it as a "box" with a base, walls - including interior walls, and a top, all of the same board type. That might work and would allow for terrain depth with a little creativity.
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Don't use foamex, not even for small bases. It's OK as a construction material for buildings but not for basing. As Richard says, any glue you use, with the exception of solvents, will peel off and unless what you are sticking to it is acrylic, plastic or the same material.
You can use superglue with it but it will crack after time due to the flex the material has.
I mainly use it for mould boxes.
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Celotex is my choice . Very strong. Easy to work with. Comes in big sheets too so you can build an entire table with one piece.
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Thanks for all the info. I'll check out the celotex.
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Personally, I wouldn't use foamboard for terrain boards on their own. I've used foamcore and foamboard for terrain tables after mounting them on other stuff to add more rigidity because they warp quite easily on their own...and can snap very easily with larger sections. They do, however, texture up easily and make for a great base piece for the work on top...
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Celotex doesn’t. It’s available in a range of thickness sizes and is easily worked.
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I have had considerable success making terrain (and loads of other stuff) out of 2" blueboard
Follow this link to see my efforts https://antonswargame.blogspot.com/p/adventures-in-blue-board-and-foamcore.html
like this (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gCWqB5NRb-k/U_xywAWUTRI/AAAAAAAAIbE/NrDFaPnbxsM/s1600/SAM_9771.JPG)
Take some 60 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the surface before using standard woodglue
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That is truly splendid. Blue board is becoming hard to get now as it has been moved out of the building regs and no longer used into the hobby world with a sacking increase in price. If you find it buy it!
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That is truly splendid. Blue board is becoming hard to get now as it has been moved out of the building regs and no longer used into the hobby world with a sacking increase in price. If you find it buy it!
I'm interested in what the difference is between 'blue board' and so many of the other foam insulation boards still available cheaply?
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I'm interested in what the difference is between 'blue board' and so many of the other foam insulation boards still available cheaply?
Blue or pink board is far superior to all other foams. Stronger, denser, and sands/carves better.
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Here in US, foam building insulation board (in a palish yellow sort of color), is a good choice. Or you can travel my road and use wood and power tools. Very durable but a bit heavy - wouldn't work well for those who have to travel on hire transportation/public transit, etc. I do use a small amount of foam on some pieces.
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My local home improvement stores have begun carrying a greenish foam insulation board.
It is somewhat similar to floral foam, though less 'gritty.' I must say, though, that it sucks compared to the old pink or blue stuff. Tends to be a bit more brittle, and doesn't sand as smooth.