Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Other Adventures => Topic started by: NickNascati on January 21, 2019, 02:17:46 AM
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What is the general opinion of the group on using clear bases for minis as opposed to traditional ones? I go back and forth on the idea. I did a bunch of pulp era figures on clear bases, and am doing sf figures the same way, but I’m not really sure I like it. It does seem to make sense for eras where figures may be used in a variety,of terrain types. But, unless the figures are made for slotta bases, it is quite a bit of work.
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Maybe here and there. I got clear bases for Rumbleslam and they worked create.
But overall, no.
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Personally think they look cheap, tacky and lazy.
And where the figures attach looks messy.
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I have decided to base my Star Wars Legion Miniatures on clear 25mm circles so that they can work on snow, desert and inside buildings and spaceships.
I am drilling a 1.2mm hole and using a 1.2mm brass rod with no glue. This avoids the splodge of glue under the feet.
I will also matt varnish the sides to reduce the glow effect.
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Absolutely not, they look awful.
The concept is good but with the present materials they look dreadful unless you use a dim light and look down onto the figure from directly above, any angle of view or strong light and the glare is worse than seeing a normal base.
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Nope not for me. I get it that you can then place them on any surface but I feel that as opposed to 'proper' basing they look naff on all surfaces.
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Yes for any new skirmish projects that involve using figures in different terrain
(dessert/snow/buildings/on board ship etc.etc.)
but probably no for most situations & definitely no for existing stuff,
can't be bothered to do lots of rebasing.
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No. Bases means bases.
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I have decided to base my Star Wars Legion Miniatures on clear 25mm circles so that they can work on snow, desert and inside buildings and spaceships.
That is what I did with my Imperial Assault miniatures for the exact reason. They are used on different printed floor tiles though. I would not put my "real" tabletop models (miniatures intended for use on modeled terrain) on clear bases.
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Maybe I should have clarified, I would of course only use such bases on figures meant for skirmish games.
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Absolutely not, they look awful.
The concept is good but with the present materials they look dreadful unless you use a dim light and look down onto the figure from directly above, any angle of view or strong light and the glare is worse than seeing a normal base.
I agree with the commercial ones, they look ridiculous.
But the homemade ones the Pulp Alley folks make look much better, and I really like those. It's that huge edge on the commercial ones that I think is what does it, since the ones I like are virtually flat.
Like most others, I think they are useful in certain circumstances, but I don't like them for everything.
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If they models are gaming pieces (as opposed to display pieces) likely to be used on a variety of terrains, I can see the appeal.
But they're not for me. I like a nicely scenic base on my babies.
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Yes for skirmish, no for anything else - same reason as others but more extreme: for me mismatched mini bases to scenery is a violent assault on the suspension of disbelief. Just can't do it.
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Much prefer a scenic base on figures . I have recently started experimenting with recycling old CD case's to make bases for future and set fittings . That's about the limit of my clear bases, and is likely to remain so.
Mark.
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You can pick up 100 epoxy stickers on Amazon for $7 for clear basing.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=epoxy+stickers&i=arts-crafts&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
I've yet to use them (: but figure I would for science fiction, maybe Star Wars, though not GW. To me, clear bases have a "tech" feel.
However, most of my non-GW sf figures are for boardgames, so have an integrated base.
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https://www.amazon.com/Pcs-1x2-Rectangle-Stickers-Cabochon-Embellishments/dp/B01FDGUPGO/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1548178190&sr=1-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=epoxy+stickers&dpPl=1&dpID=41vX2UgKKoL&ref=plSrch
There are Cavalry bases available even.
I think clear bases might be good for Naval Games as well as Skirmish games. Skirmish Games that are SciFi based seem like the best use of clear basing for games that involve figures.
I think there needs to be some experimenting done with anti-glare coatings maybe Testors Dull Coat [?] to fight the glare problem.
There is a game called Havoc? or something where there are color coded teams of operatives: Red, Blue, Green, etc. I am thinking tinted, translucent bases, in the various colors might be a nifty solution.
I once improvised some Skirmish bases for Warhammer Fanstasy (Oldhammer at this point) by using kidney shaped pieces of plastic cut from non-glare, polypropylene, sheet protectors. I was able to slide 10-12 skirmishers around quickly just like tray riding troops.
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I have been impressed with a number of examples of clear bases, however for me they would probably be beyond my skill level.
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Don't do it :o
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As a rule, not.
But then I got a ton of cheap clix for superhero games, there's no way I'm painting them (the vast majority anyway) and the bases are crap (unless you're using the original rules I suppose). The addition of clear 1.5mm bases makes them looks miles better IMHO, plus makes the figures more usable.
So in a special instance I can be persuaded :)
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I'm clear basing my Shadows of Brimstone models due to the multitudes of boards they go on. Epoxy doesn't mist the base (and it's taken me a while to find that out), so that's currently the mounting source of choice.
Wouldn't base 'army' models on clear bases, but unbased board game models or unbased skirmish models (I'm too much of a coward to try cutting models off bases at present) might go on these - I like to see the 'ground on which they walk if able, especially if using mats/boards for various settings
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Here are some Star Wars Legion figures.
The bases are 25mm diameter and 2mm thick. The brass pin is 1.2mm. I drilled an exactly 1.2mm hole in the base and the leg. No glue involved. I will matt varnish the edge to reduce the shine.
I did try some with superglue and no pin. These were very delicate if dropped or banged and broke frequently. After repair, you can see the glue splodges and that looks untidy.
Also - drill by hand using a pin chuck and not a Dremmel. Slow and accurate is the way to go, especially on the figure
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4900/39916296583_d37ce22465_o.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4805/46893939031_75d9f91ab3_o.jpg)
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For those that have used them. Have the bases scratched at all on the bottom. I have not made the jump as I am worried about the acrylic scratching on other surfaces and ending up cloudy. I am not planning to make the jump for all of my tabletop minis but I have been thinking of hosting a one shot game and was thinking about it for that.
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I use them on my Arena of Death Dark Eldar Gladiator game, everything else gets the usual treatment- slottas or washers.
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The great debate lol I use them all the time & have been for a couple of years now tbh as it does away with the whole wrong base in the wrong setting & I've noticed more & more people also using them.
At the end of the day I think its up to each player to base his models how he see's fit but there's one thing I'd like to point out & its this, putting models on clear bases has nothing to do with laziness as some people seem to think.
So to answer your question, base them whatever way you like as your the one who paid for them, painted them & will be using them :)
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Absolutely; there seems to be quite a bit of conservatism in our niche workd when it comes to basing.
In some cases, people put as much work into their bases as into the miniatures that go on top of them; it's become a part of the hobby, as opposed to the afterthought it was back in the day.
Remember; bases were only ever invented to keep a miniature standing up. After all, the best result would always be unbased miniatures that somehow (miraculously) remain upright, no matter where you put them.
Basing was never an issue back when miniatures still had integrated bases; they did not have an actual role in gameplay. These days, different types of miniatures are often required to be put on a certain size (and type) of base, and people seem to have taken that as unmutable fact.
So bases have become an integral part of certain game systems, and 25mm round bases are almost an industry standard nowadays.
Not to mention the 30mm 'display' bases with the lip, as introduced by Privateer press when they first published Warmachine; all the more invitation to really go to town on the scenic aspect of the base, and this is encouraged everywhere.
So naturally, people become defensive when this part of the hobby is 'denied' to them. Bases seem as integral to our miniatures as integral bases were back when!
I remember the sh*tstorm I triggered when I proposed cross-shaped bases for miniatures used for gaming inside of buildings; the same diameter as our beloved 25mm slotta base (or washer), but with more room to maneuver a mini into corners, behind doors etc.
All matter of arguments against the idea were thrown up, but to my mind, none of those had any rational basis behind them. Of course the fact that the bases were also made from clear acrylic (thank you Sally4th for volunteering to make them :) ) did not help winning people over either. It was clear though that you should not touch people's beloved bases. I suppose they're almost a cultural thing now...
But as stated in a previous post; it all comes down to personal preference, and in the end they're your miniatures and you can base them any way you like.
To me, clear bases certainly have their place, but by and large, I still tend to base the vast majority of my miniatures regardless, because apparently I'm a bit of a grognard myself after all... ;)
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@Daeothar,
I fully agree with you.
I actually have about 4,000 figures on conventional bases.
My huge medieval Agincourt & Burgundian Wars armies are on mud and grass because that is where they fought.
Afrika Korps and 8th Army are on sand for the same reason.
I will have about 70 on transparent bases.
5 are U-Boat Crew because grassy bases look stupid on a U-Boat and vice versa.
65 will be Star Wars Legion, so that I can use the same expensive set of figures for Hoth, Endor, Tatooine, Jedda and Scarif.
Transparent bases have a place.
Regards
Mick
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Cross shaped bases? Now that is an interesting idea indeed. I use US pennies for all the minis that I can, even many 28mm will fit just fine. I do like the idea of the smallest possible base that will do its job.
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I definitely think they have their place. As I mentioned I think they work well for furniture.
But for exterior games textured bases are much more to my taste.
Mark.
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I am back and forth on this as i am back and forth on basing vehicles. :-)
Grimm
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Probably not. Even when done well ie totally matt they have a sci-fi feel to them and my sci-fi are always likely to be found in grey interior terrain so get painted accordingly.
There is a problem with figures that have to be used over different terrains - for more urban types I stick with the plain grey base and for more rural types I keep to an earthy brown with no/minimal vegetation.
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I think I'd have to say no. But if you could give me ones that don't reflect the light so much I might change my mind. Just don't like all that shininess.
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For me transparent bases are a real option on miniatures board games (like mansion of madness or dungeon crawlers) where you play on tiles.
For table top wargaming regular bases with proper basing are my goto option.
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The great debate lol I wrote up a clear bases tutorial about a month or so ago here if anyone is interested - https://saturdaymornings13.blogspot.com/2019/02/clear-bases-tutorial-ver-20.html (https://saturdaymornings13.blogspot.com/2019/02/clear-bases-tutorial-ver-20.html)
I used to use the Litko 25mm clear bases all the time but have since switched to a paper thin clear base and I think it works a treat. Again though, as emphatically stated in the beginning of my blog post, you do what's best for you :D
Hopefully some of you interested in the clear bases can find something of value in the post, and those that don't can at least understand the reasons why I have switched to the clear base.
Cheers!
Ivor
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Clear bases are great for metal miniatures, but for plastic minis I still prefer metal bases.
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Just a thought, but does anyone do clear sabot bases?
I am busy texturing mdf sabot bases & it is a lot of work,
plus I might end up doing a set of sabot bases for each terrain type.
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I do but they’re not in the webshop yet. Salute got in the way of sorting out decent photos (clear stuff not being the easiest to take pictures of lol).
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clear stuff not being the easiest to take pictures of lol
I don't see it myself.
Didn't see that one coming.
It is all clear now.
A transparently obvious answer.
Glad it is Perspex, glass can be a pane.
I'll get me coat.
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clear stuff not being the easiest to take pictures of lol
I don't see it myself.
Didn't see that one coming.
It is all clear now.
A transparently obvious answer.
Glad it is Perspex, glass can be a pane.
I'll get me coat.
lol lol lol
I started using clear bases as I like to game inside buildings and grass bases never looked right. Here's some photos of a Rangers of Shadow Deep game that shows why I like clear bases.
(https://i.imgur.com/nADn323.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OcUli9V.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vMWGaXm.jpg)
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Your pics show the major advantage of clear base ;)
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I started using clear bases as I like to game inside buildings and grass bases never looked right. Here's some photos of a Rangers of Shadow Deep game that shows why I like clear bases.
These clear bases look really good. I hadn't realised you could use such thin material as bases.
These photos also show just how strange thick black edged bases look - which looks far worse to me than any shine from a clear base.
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I hadn't realised you could use such thin material as bases.
Yes, I use all sorts of scrap packaging for the bases and very thin plastic works fine. I use a 1" hole-punch to punch out the bases.
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These clear bases look really good. I hadn't realised you could use such thin material as bases.
These photos also show just how strange thick black edged bases look - which looks far worse to me than any shine from a clear base.
Well, yes, but if you paint the edges to match the rest of the base the whole thing blends in much better.
Those clear bases are by far the best examples I've seen.
Not really practical for figures which come with integral bases (i.e most historical stuff)
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Pulp Valley’s Dave manages pretty fine on solid base figures with the aid of nail clippers. There’s a YouTube video about it here (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0iSonqcwmMw)
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Well, yes, but if you paint the edges to match the rest of the base the whole thing blends in much better.
Those clear bases are by far the best examples I've seen.
Not really practical for figures which come with integral bases (i.e most historical stuff)
I suppose it's really just a personal choice. I find integral bases fine for this, these are integral bases. I just cut the base away with two different types of cutter and then file the underside of the feet.
(https://i.imgur.com/RTnvdn8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M7VRP91.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KlQodv4.jpg)
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The longer I have been playing, the more enamored I have become with clear bases, especially for skirmish level games. They just feel more flexible.
And I don't think they look bad.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/36/1352-241118032752-36444503.jpeg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/36/1352-231118072731-364231911.jpeg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/37/1352-170219074929-376681578.jpeg)
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I suppose it's really just a personal choice. I find integral bases fine for this, these are integral bases. I just cut the base away with two different types of cutter and then file the underside of the feet.
What about mounted figures? Most horses have very thin legs, usually with one of more off the ground and I don't see how you will get a stable bond if you cut the base away.
Also, many historical games have the figures on multi-bases, which a certain amount of thickness for stability; I don't think thin clear bases will work too well if you have multiple 28mm figures on them.
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Horses for courses I suppose...
I don't think transparent bases can be easily pulled off in mass battle games, more so with cavalry in the mix. Rather, it's a good alternative to integral- and slotta bases for skirmish games, especially when games involve entering buildings etc. for other types of games, I'd rather go with textures bases still.
But the posted pictures of transparent bases in action, especially Mad Lord Snapcase's, clearly (sic) show that in such situations, thin, clear bases are very nice indeed. So much so, that I've now ordered a 1 inch hole punch... :D
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Clearly (pun totally intended lol) I should have posted some images with my link to my tutorial on the clear bases above - some questions raised in replies after my initial post are all addressed in the tutorial. There are even some tips for those that are having a bit of frosting happening around the feet of their figures and how to improve that :)
But here's a few photos -
As you can see, horses on a clear thin base is no issue whatsoever - many more mounted photos in the tutorial. Even Zorro's horse Tornado who only has two feet attached to the base!
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-75vLi7AsR3s/XFt-BW9eFzI/AAAAAAAAHEY/fJptYIHNMJEP5-ml2fRW1zW77gM20RNBQCLcBGAs/s1600/20190206_193521.jpg lol lol)
I think the other quick thing to mention is the 1 inch base - this photo shows the difference between the 3/4 inch base, on the right, and the 1 inch base. I've gone exclusively to the 3/4 (20mm) inch base and I think it works much better visually. Not every figure will work on the smaller base though as my photo illustrates, but I guarantee you that you will be surprised at how many do :)
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hU7nKdL5cXw/XFrahqTHiXI/AAAAAAAAHBc/MElFpF0zxkEK13cfTmzT28y7y4s1BMpTACLcBGAs/s1600/20190121_094921.jpg)
Forgot to put in a photo of multiple figures on a single base - works a treat for zombie hordes :D
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uDEgATviZhI/XFwsVyIhg-I/AAAAAAAAHE4/l70y2EG2NAoEzlRGr3WErsCVTqnc0449wCLcBGAs/s1600/20190207_080044.jpg)
As with everything in this hobby, do what is right for you - for me and skirmish games, it's all clear bases now!
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KCPh9woLPHg/XFshqN2U0WI/AAAAAAAAHDQ/-PgAXuGIhEQGMTS2BYkxM9ZkWUxo_iLzQCLcBGAs/s1600/20190206_125557.jpg)
Cheers!
Ivor
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I've used the somewhat thicker clear bases on one of my projects and I do like how it looks, though I was pinning them and that was hard work. The thinner ones seem a lot better. What glue works best on those?
Unrelated question, who makes that building in the last picture with Zorro and Sgt. Garcia? :)
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When I first started using clear bases I was using the Likto 1.5mm thick bases and like you was pinning all my figures to the bases, and it was incredibly hard work.
I had always used Gorilla super glue but once I went to the thin bases I tried Loctite's professional super glue - I had a 50% off coupon so I decided to try out the most expensive super glue the store had which was the Loctite professional. I can't tell you how much of a difference it makes and can't recommend it enough!! It's been an absolute game changer for the clear bases. I get zero "frosting" on the bases and the bond is incredibly tight - I've yet to have a figure come off of a base, even on something like the can can dancer's below
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q4mCJHixby4/XJzBZ5xf2yI/AAAAAAAAHIw/CmvXgotfm4MkGL8jqnksQf3KGlWFqx0VACLcBGAs/s1600/20190328_081430.jpg)
The building that Zorro and Sgt. Garcia are fighting on are from Crescent Root :D
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The great debate lol I wrote up a clear bases tutorial about a month or so ago here if anyone is interested - https://saturdaymornings13.blogspot.com/2019/02/clear-bases-tutorial-ver-20.html (https://saturdaymornings13.blogspot.com/2019/02/clear-bases-tutorial-ver-20.html)
Thanks to you I just ordered those card loaders, punch tools and loctite glue. lol
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Thanks for the tutorial.
Too much hassle to redo existing projects, but I have a couple
new projects (figures ordered) & will give it a try.
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Much appreciated guys! Hopefully you can get something useful out of the tutorial :)
Please post up some photos or links to blogs, I'd love to see how you are making out with the bases!
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Saw, frames, 20mm hole punch & a glue ordered.
A friend should have, yesterday, picked up my next project &
I hope to try out a few clear bases after Easter.
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Here are some Star Wars Legion figures on 25mm diameter x 2mm thick acrylic bases.
Han Solo (left) has no paint on the base edges.
The three Rebel Crew with light blue sleeves have base edges painted with Matt Medium.
The two Pathfinders have Matt Varnish round the edge of the base.
The photo does not do this justice but I think Matt Medium tones down the shine quite well
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33834563958_7491c80929_o.jpg)
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Oshiro, any update on the transparent sabot bases?
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Using clear bases seems like a great idea, provided that one has the time and the patience.
One question, though: as clear bases are lighter and maybe smoother than metal washers, etc., have you found at all that they may be less stable or more slippery, especially on slopes?
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From my experience so far I have had no problems with figures sliding or having difficulty staying in place.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XtYmqWzReEM/XMiuzulku2I/AAAAAAAAHMs/j3ygemhe2NMIE5T2yMsuz-uS7FTqdBjZwCLcBGAs/s1600/20190430_161505.jpg)
Even something like this, where Indy is on a pretty small ledge wasn't an issue.
I will say that the only terrain that I personally haven't tried these thin bases on is the teddy bear fur mats that are popular right now. I think that this will be their biggest challenge - as even traditional types of bases don't always keep the models straight and upright.
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Well I had a go using ivor13's tutorial the same materials and have to say the results were much better than I expected, I haven't made my mind up if I prefer it over "normal" bases but I'm heading in that direction.
One thing I noticed is that the plastic from the card holders, although perfect in thickness and stiffness has a very slight blue tint. It's not too noticeable, but would definitely be better if it wasn't there. Anyone know of alternative sources? I find the plastic from clamshell packs for figures isn't quite as stiff as the stuff the cards are made out of
Have fun
Finn
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Those look fantastic FinnN!
It looks like you went with the 1 inch base, I would definitely try the 3/4 inch if you can, I think you'll be even happier with the results :D
I have yet to find anything that beats the card holders in regards to the plastic - if you do come across something please let me know!
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Well I originally bought a 3/4" punch but as these miniatures are bit heroically scaled quite a few of them didn't actually fit, so in the end I went with consistency rather than going for a good fit on each model. I might rebase some back to the smaller size as in retrospect base radius doesn't make much difference with the rules I'm using.
For me the thing I especially like is how their feet are actually on the ground rather than on some sort of platform!
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Sally 4th had some clear sabot bases on display at Partizan.
The nice lady said they had priced them up for a customer, but he
had thought them too expensive. She did say they would put a notice
onto LAF about the possible price, to see if any of us might be interested.
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Sorry but clear bases are an abomination before for. Likewise teddy bear fur....
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A resounding "heck yea"
I think they look great. Overly done scenic bases are my pet peeve (hate 'em!), and silly snow covered based look awful on a jungle world, and vice versa. I am a big fan of "less is more" here, and do my bases very simply. For boardgames, I try to rebase nearly everything on clear acrylic disks because it looks so much better. For tabletop wargames, I will often give in and just do normal bases, but I typically do a simple dirt base, maybe with a little grass or something.
But I use clear disks wherever I can. You can even use super-thin bases, if that's your thing (take a one-inch punch to a blister pack, for example, and use the resulting super thin disks. Perfect!) In general, they look so much nicer.
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Here are the OSHIRO ones. We’ve also got some suitable for both Test of Honour and Mortal Gods rules sets.
https://oshiromodels.wixsite.com/oshiromodelswebshop/gamingaid (https://oshiromodels.wixsite.com/oshiromodelswebshop/gamingaid)
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I have ordered some, but not yet arrived, so can't yet comment on their wonderfulness (or not).
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There's these from ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/fluid3dworkshop/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
But
when you cut them from the surround they come with you get four marks which are as annoying as ****!
I use mine for testing.
They are covered in a plastic protective coat.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Njmmypsz/IMG-3506.jpg)
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If I was starting now, I’d definitely go with clear bases - they look so much better. I’ve never been a fan of the "diorama" base for gaming figures - all that scenery being dragged round from one inappropriate terrain type to another.
My annual gaming chums Mad Lord Snapcase and Vagabond, both of this parish, use the punch-out, thin type and they are splendid. I’m not so fond of the acrylic ones - the edges spoil the "look, no base!" effect but those thin ones.....excellent.
If only I hadn’t got thousands of figures on standard bases.......
Doug
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I have ordered some, but not yet arrived, so can't yet comment on their wonderfulness (or not).
You should get them tomorrow.
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Here's my big problem with clear bases - how am I supposed to use magnet based storage now? How do you clear base people store your figures? I'd like to try it, at least for skirmishy type figures, but that's my big hangup currently.
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Generally speaking, not a fan.
I have seen some (like this thread) which are well done, but the vast majority I've seen in person are incredibly distracting - namely due to the glare. I've found a lot of photos supporting the practice to be carefully chosen/selected to not show the glare. The thicker normal Litko ones are very obviously present in most gaming pictures, etc.
Do I think they can be done right? Sure. However I'd normally just prefer an inoffensive standard green/beige base. I have some clear-based minis of my own (namely tentacles from a sea-monster), and I'm not likely to do more in the future. More often than not the glare from any lighting is just too distracting for me.
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I have seen some (like this thread) which are well done, but the vast majority I've seen in person are incredibly distracting - namely due to the glare. I've found a lot of photos supporting the practice to be carefully chosen/selected to not show the glare. The thicker normal Litko ones are very obviously present in most gaming pictures, etc.
I'm trying them out for one project, and like them in this particular application. Gearing up for Maximillian 1934 and won't be needing lots of foot figures; plus some of the vehicles will need to go on bases, I may base all of them. I certainly couldn't imagine using them for other projects with lots more foot figures that would need cutting away from cast-on bases. There are also many projects where I use basing details to help distinguish different units.
But for specific application, I like how they are working. Having followed the thread here for some time, I'm punching out my own from the Ultra-Pro top-loaders. I'm using Fiskars lever punches, and expect these will hold up well over use. I really like the thinness of these, I really like how it keeps the height of the figures in better proportion to the height of vehicles, doorways, etc. I would not use thick acrylics, for me the bulky translucent base would not compare well to flocked/detailed bases.
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Oshiro. The bases did arrive the next day.
I am very pleased with them' though it will be a while
before I get figures based ready for them.
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What is the general opinion of the group on using clear bases for minis as opposed to traditional ones?
Me: Hah, what heresy! Clearly they look like shy... - glances at latest examples, results in an instant come-to-Jesus moment.
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Oshiro. The bases did arrive the next day.
I am very pleased with them' though it will be a while
before I get figures based ready for them.
Brill, thanks for letting me know :)
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I have been using clear bases on my pulp stuff for awhile now, and have been very happy with them. I use the Litco 1.5mm bases. The key to the glare problem is to file the edge to remove the shinny irregular surface. This leaves the edge with a slight frost and it just disappears when on the board. I prep my figures by removing the bases with flush cut nippers and file flat. Add a brass pin in 1 foot about 1 inch long. This gets stuck in wine cork for painting. To mount just trim brass tp length and insert in hole drilled in base. I use gorilla ca to mount. This sounds long but is a quick process.
For figures not on clear bases I just use bases with tile grout texture painted earth with sand dry brush. Nothing else no flock etc. to me this is a good compromise to the terrain/building issue. The only figures what get flock are things that are outside only like my ACW and ancients.
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I tried clear bases for my Sci-fi minis since they were going to be used on so many different types of terrain. I started with 3mm bases from Greenstuff world. I was not pleased with the result. I then tried 1.5mm Litko bases and was much happier with the result. Of course my European source dried up and getting them from the States can be spendy so I have been looking for other sources. Currently I am waiting for some 1.5mm bases to arrive from Australia.
It can be really fiddly putting minis on clear bases but it does take less time than a well done natural terrain base like I do for my medieval fantasy minis. As others on this thread have stated, I am also not a fan of over the top iconic natural terrain bases. Epic hero poses on imposing rocky heights for example or an elf in a tree.... the same way I do not like a bloody corpse following a character around on its base.... just seem out of place too often.
But when you look at say going indoors, underground or aboard ship... then clear bases seem appealing. That said, when I look at the minis for some reason the clear bases just look less jarring on the more modern minis. I can not figure out why.
I suppose it may be the same thing where my mind seems ok with flat cardboard terrain for sci-fi but not medieval fantasy.
Edit: Conveniently the bases arrived from Australia today. 25mm and 40mm... they look great. I found them thanks to advice from another lead adventure member. You can find them on the Australian EBay.
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I like them as my forces are generally multi purpose - WW2 Soviets and Commandos, Pulp gangs etc.
Just an idea for those using them - if you paint the edge a neutral colour (grey, brown, etc) the edge becomes much less obvious also if you put a dot of sepia ink at the interface where the feet are any clouding from the glue will vanish ;)
My next force is Canadians in Dieppe, they will be getting shingle bases as it's linked to their back story, otherwise they'd be getting clear too!
I use 1mm acrylic DIY laser cut but I do like the super think bases.... might have to give them a go instead!
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I have used them on the crew for a ship which I have. I want them to fit into the model but also be used in the longboats I have and on land too.
I think they look fine.
I won't used this method for my normal troops, but for these guys it works.
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I'm always torn with clear bases - For the most part i build warbands as thematic little projects and the bases are part of the overall narrative of the minis - my sunhold minis are on overgrown tiles, my retro orks are on oxide industrial bases etc....
But more and more i'm thinking of switching to super thin clear bases or even the old gorkamorka style micro bases so that i can build more engaging terrain that isn't so blatantly built to accommodate a 45mm disk.