Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Atheling on October 09, 2019, 12:14:19 PM
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As the title suggests, I'm looking for the best way to glue teddy bear fur terrain to MDF in order to create a modular terrain system.
The 'fur' will be modelled and coloured etc.
Do I glue the MDF to a frame in order to stop any potential warping? I'm assuming that MDF without a frame has a greater chance of going out of shape?
What sort of glue do I need? Would PVA do the job? Or waterproof PVA?
What are your thoughts?
Any help would be hugely appreciated.
Kind Regards
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You need a glue like this:
https://www.silmid.com/adhesives/contact-adhesives/alpha-thixofix-easy-spread-contact-adhesive-1lt-can/
Formulated so that you only apply it to one surface then press the other onto it which allows you time to clear wrinkles and lumps that ordinary contact adhesive doesn't.
It does not penetrate the mdf so is unlikely to cause warping as it dries unless you are hoping to use a 2mm or 3mm panel. In which case it will need clamping flat.
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Dunno about teddy bear fur, but I've mounted my 2x2 mdf boards to frames. 9mm thick mdf on 20mm square battens, with lots of filler, paint and pva on top. No warping.
Though when I did the same process with bigger 2 x 4 ft boards, I did have warping problems.
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Dunno about teddy bear fur, but I've mounted my 2x2 mdf boards to frames. 9mm thick mdf on 20mm square battens, with lots of filler, paint and pva on top. No warping.
Though when I did the same process with bigger 2 x 4 ft boards, I did have warping problems.
Were the 2 x 3 ft boards fastened to batons too?
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Robh has it right.
You need contact adhesive. wonderful stuff. wot warp your board. but you must realise you will never get the fur off...
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Robh has it right.
You need contact adhesive. wonderful stuff. wot warp your board. but you must realise you will never get the fur off...
Yeah, that's a great idea.
Don't mind leaving the fur on the boards :)
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spray adhesive is a good choice too. I used it in the past to glue teddy bear fur.
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Were the 2 x 3 ft boards fastened to batons too?
Yes, both the 2x2 and 2x4 boards are made the same way.
The 2x4 ones warped somewhat, but I remedied it a bit by gluing newspaper on the underside with PVA. Still not perfectly level, but I put little wedges of cardboard under the corners when I set up a table to level things out nicely.
The 2x2 boards have never warped - I guess they are sturdy little squares.
When I do boards with recessed features such as rivers and ditches, the MDF becomes the bottom layer, and the battens become a 'border' to the 20mm blue foam top layer which the rivers etc are cut into.
For flat boards, the MDF becomes the top layer and the battens are underneath, with no blue foam needed of course.
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Yes, both the 2x2 and 2x4 boards are made the same way.
The 2x4 ones warped somewhat, but I remedied it a bit by gluing newspaper on the underside with PVA. Still not perfectly level, but I put little wedges of cardboard under the corners when I set up a table to level things out nicely.
The 2x2 boards have never warped - I guess they are sturdy little squares.
When I do boards with recessed features such as rivers and ditches, the MDF becomes the bottom layer, and the battens become a 'border' to the 20mm blue foam top layer which the rivers etc are cut into.
For flat boards, the MDF becomes the top layer and the battens are underneath, with no blue foam needed of course.
Thanks, very helpful. 8)
One last question, what thickness of MDF did you go for?
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9mm.
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9mm.
Thanks Charlie 8) :)
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I would paint the side of the board you are not gluing to, and as others have suggested contact glue like Copydex is good for fabrics.
What thickness are your boards? I'd advise at least 6mm or better 9mm
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Most likely 9mm.
I think anything else would be too apt to warp when the glue is applied.
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Copydex is not a contact adhesive.
I would paint the side of the board you are not gluing to, and as others have suggested contact glue like Copydex is good for fabrics.
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Copydex is not a contact adhesive.
Good point.
I've already got my eye on a good contact adhesive.
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I wasn't trying to be clever about the comment on Copydex.
True contact adhesive (some variants also called 'Barge') do not 'wet' the materials they are applied to. Its a neoprene rubber compound that creates a chemical bond between two glued surfaces. It is normally used for large areas of non porous materials such as bonding laminates to kitchen counter tops. But it's also used a lot for glueing foam together by cosplayers because it simply doesn't fail and it instantly bonds difficult materials, but remains flexible!
The rubber compound in a contact adhesive is mixed with a solvent to make it liquid in the tin you buy it in. You apply a thin coat to both surfaces and then let the solvent evaporate for a few minutes, and then introduce the two DRY surfaces to each other where the grab is instant. You get one chance.
Copydex on the other hand is a trade name for a WATER based latex glue. It cures by the water in the glue evaporating. It works by being absorbed into the materials it is bonding.
The upshot of all this is Copydex will warp your mdf boards. Contact cement will not. I have bonded sheets of 3mm hardboard and 2 mm MDF together without ANY distortion.
With the right glue you really wont need a 9mm board. (you may want a thick board to support the mass of the items glued to it, but that's a different issue)
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I wasn't trying to be clever about the comment on Copydex.
I didn't think you were :)
True contact adhesive (some variants also called 'Barge') do not 'wet' the materials they are applied to. Its a neoprene rubber compound that creates a chemical bond between two glued surfaces. It is normally used for large areas of non porous materials such as bonding laminates to kitchen counter tops. But it's also used a lot for glueing foam together by cosplayers because it simply doesn't fail and it instantly bonds difficult materials, but remains flexible!
The rubber compound in a contact adhesive is mixed with a solvent to make it liquid in the tin you buy it in. You apply a thin coat to both surfaces and then let the solvent evaporate for a few minutes, and then introduce the two DRY surfaces to each other where the grab is instant. You get one chance.
Copydex on the other hand is a trade name for a WATER based latex glue. It cures by the water in the glue evaporating. It works by being absorbed into the materials it is bonding.
The upshot of all this is Copydex will warp your mdf boards. Contact cement will not. I have bonded sheets of 3mm hardboard and 2 mm MDF together without ANY distortion.
With the right glue you really wont need a 9mm board. (you may want a thick board to support the mass of the items glued to it, but that's a different issue)
Thanks for elucidating that. Appreciated. It's always good to have the info in front of you, so's to speak, to prevent any disasters and disappointments later one.
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Spray adhesive will not warp, and works great. I used it (as I said) on MDF to glue the same teddy bear fur ;)
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Spray adhesive will not warp, and works great. I used it (as I said) on MDF to glue the same teddy bear fur ;)
I'll bear that in kind, thanks :)
I would think that it's easier to apply too.
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Copydex is not a contact adhesive.
Yes it is when gluing fabrics:
How to use: On paper, card and wood. Apply to one surface only, press together firmly. On non-porous surfaces (such as plastics, metal, cork), fabrics and carpets apply sparingly and evenly to each surface to be bonded. Allow adhesive to dry until it becomes touch dry (15-20 minutes) then bring firmly together.