Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => General Wargames and Hobby Discussion => Topic started by: Bosch on October 17, 2019, 09:43:47 AM
-
I'm looking for a filler to use on, ideally, plastic, resin and metal figures. I don't seem to get on with liquid green stuff (is it meant to be granular or have I just got a duff pot?) and when I need it I don't want to have to mix up a batch of milliput or similar: I just want to squeeze something out of a tube. The previous suggestion was Squadron White Putty but this hasn't been great. Any recommendations please?
-
I use Vallejo Plastic Putty. Comes in a squeezable tube. I use it for small holes and little gaps when doing head swaps. It's acrylic so takes paint easily.
-
Might be worth the mention that Vallejo also makes a Liquid Green Stuff equivalent (except it's white), sold in their regular dropper bottles.
I use it regularly to fill in unsightly seams between plastic components, and it's pretty good for that. I even used it once to make gems on space marine chest armour, and it did that job pretty well too...
-
Im not happy with vallejo putty. It tends to flake off and its not sandable. I prefer these. They are pretty much interchangeable. They are water based, that means that they can be smoothed and cleaned with a wet finger or cotton bud. They are sandable and adhere better than the vallejo one. Dont expect them to be so strong like solvent based putties like tamiya, squadron or mr hobby, but also they dont stink.
https://www.emodels.co.uk/deluxe-materials-40ml-perfect-plastic-putty-tube-044.html
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ak-interactive-20ml-white-modelling-putty-ak103.html
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ak-interactive-20ml-grey-modelling-putty-ak104.html
-
I'm in the process of putting together large Reaper Bones models. Even after soapwashing the material is wayyy too slick to get either liquid greenstuff or Milliput inside the seams. Rolling it out is fine but when applying it doesn't stick and goes everywhere. When I started the hobby - WFB 3rd edition I used wall filler to fill out gaps and I'm thinking it might be the solution over here. Problem is schulpting on detail is impossible, I can scratch a litle bit but that's it.
Anyone has ideas for a better option?
-
This isn't exactly a solution, as I can't make any claims for its efficacy, but there is a new product on the market which may be worth considering:
AMMO MIG ARMING PUTTY ACRYLIC TYPE AMIG2039
Actually two:
AMMO MIG ARMING PUTTY CLASSIC AMIG2040
'Classic' means solvent-based. Although I've bought both, I can't as yet comment on their properties, or how they compare to other products already mentioned, having not yet tried them. A tube-based single-part putty with the properties of epoxy would indeed be something to savour (though not literally, I imagine.)
-
Thanks, will look into the first one.
-
I'm in the process of putting together large Reaper Bones models. Even after soapwashing the material is wayyy too slick to get either liquid greenstuff or Milliput inside the seams. Rolling it out is fine but when applying it doesn't stick and goes everywhere. When I started the hobby - WFB 3rd edition I used wall filler to fill out gaps and I'm thinking it might be the solution over here. Problem is schulpting on detail is impossible, I can scratch a litle bit but that's it.
Anyone has ideas for a better option?
Here’s a random thought. What if you apply some thin superglue at the seam, then add your putty/filler after it dries? The superglue should give the putty something to grip. Or maybe you can just rough up the surface slightly with a file or coarse sandpaper.
-
Superglue runs everywhere on it, unfortunately. I use it to glue the parts together but always need a tissue to wipe out the excess/run away stuff... Thanks for the suggestion though.
Tonight I'll try some thinned down Milliput, in theory it should work like wall filler but whilst hardening I should be able to add some detail into it. Theoretically spoken lol.
Will post a follow-up with pics, if succeeded :-).
-
Superglue runs everywhere on it, unfortunately. I use it to glue the parts together but always need a tissue to wipe out the excess/run away stuff... Thanks for the suggestion though.
Tonight I'll try some thinned down Milliput, in theory it should work like wall filler but whilst hardening I should be able to add some detail into it. Theoretically spoken lol.
Will post a follow-up with pics, if succeeded :-).
Another possibility is to spray the problem areas with one of those plastic-bonding matte spray paints. You just need to give the surface some tooth for the putty to grab on to.
-
Thanks, that will be plan B if thinned down Milliput fails me.
-
How about superglue mixed with baking powder (or soda - apparently there's a difference). I realise there's still some mixing involved, but it should be quicker than mixing epoxy, and entail less wastage. It's only useful for filling gaps, of course, but should certainly be hard enough.
-
Superglue runs everywhere on it, unfortunately. I use it to glue the parts together but always need a tissue to wipe out the excess/run away stuff...
I use foam/sponge to clean superglue. The ones that are usually found in metal miniatures packs.
I found the stuff better for the purpose as tissue is prone to tearing. I use tissues just to "suck" superglue form deep recesses.
-
I've used Golden Hard Molding Paste to fill gaps, including on bones figures - link (https://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medium-gels-pastes). Smoothes with water and sands okay once dry.
-
How about superglue mixed with baking powder (or soda - apparently there's a difference). I realise there's still some mixing involved, but it should be quicker than mixing epoxy, and entail less wastage. It's only useful for filling gaps, of course, but should certainly be hard enough.
Super glue with soda cures instantly and its hard like a rock. Harder than any kind of plastic so its should be avoided when you want to sand the area. You will mark the surrounding plastic way before you can even out the superglue with soda bump. People use it to fix broken guitar nuts
-
OK. I should probably test some of these ideas before I suggest them...
-
Probably. Nevertheless, I thought this might be worth throwing into the mix:
-
Thanks all, this is very helpful.
-
I've recently started using the UV-light curable liquid resin. Bondic is one of the brands that makes a pen with the resin, and has a UV light on the other end to cure it - cures in a few seconds, and you can tidy it up a little bit with a toothpick or old brush before you cure it. I haven't tried sanding it and it can be a little messy - I usually put it on my palette (or a piece of cardboard) and apply with a toothpick for smaller areas - but it works great and I find it a lot less painful than preparing green stuff, etc.
-
I just went back to the classic wall filler. Just thinning it down until it can easily be pushed in the gaps ( I use a wooden cocktail stick for it ) and then spread it with a cotton bud. Primitive but it works. If I need to add detail will use some miliput on top of it but I've found this the quickest and easiest way to prep multipart plastics and Reaper Bones...