Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Call of Cthulhu => Strange Aeons => Topic started by: superflytnt on December 06, 2012, 04:56:55 PM
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Index:
First National Grocery
(Below) P1
Innsmouth Eatery
LINK:http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg566675#msg566675 (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg566675#msg566675) P2
Esoteric Order Of Dagon Hangout
LINK: http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg567248#msg567248 (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg567248#msg567248) P3, P4
The Raging Manuxet
LINK: http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg572259#msg572259 (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg572259#msg572259) P5
The Marsh Refinery
LINK: http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg572889#msg572889 (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=48588.msg572889#msg572889) P6
The First National Grocery (almost done) and The Diner (basecoat and plates over Plasticville text..)
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Nice!
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That's what I'm talking about.
The funniest thing is your National Grocery was one I was looking at but the owner wanted 25.00 for it. I think it is a K-LIne, nice modifications. I love the grime. Supercool. I like your window effect as well.
I like this model because of the skylights and the drainpipe at the back. Good for a pulp yarn as well.
The diner opens up so many ideas as well. How about a nice seafood restaurant?
My only crticisim - I'll never get to play on it! Oh and posters, you can never have enough posters! ;)
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Nice work, sir!
That weathering looks great and the windows look seriously effective.
:-*
Looking forward to seeing the diner finished off.
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The front windows are using Ben's patented milk jug method (cutting them from old plastic milk jugs) and the rear and side windows are made from Testor's magic handy-dandy plastic cement and clear part maker. I wanted to emulate glass blocks, which just really do look smashing in my very biased and proud-father view. I'm doing the same technique on the factory as glass block architecture started in the early 1900's, especially in factories, and it's just a really good look. Plus, it's really easy to pop out individual blocks which creates a hell of a broken glass look. I mean, it looks like a miniature vandal kid (miniature as in pewter, not a midget) strolled along and tossed a brick straight through it.
I'll post clearer pics. I've had the bloody spins for a week again, can't f-ing hardly see straight so once my brain gets sorted I'll do my level best to show the details on the brick.
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I like what I'm seeing ...
Just wish these kits were more readily available in UK and Europe - Least I managed to pick up a couple of old 70's kits from a railroader how thought they were a "bit crap".
Seeing what you guys have done has got me looking at the old "K-Line Toy Factory" kit on the workbench ... now where's my liquid poly ?
Looking forward to watching this develop.
RMZ
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(http://p2.la-img.com/266/14303/4493923_1_m.jpg)
Funny you mention this one, mate...this one was eyeballed heavily my own eyeballs with the plan of making into the Gilman House, in fact. I was considering putting in a plasticard 60 mil second floor and building some stairs too to build an interior.
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That's the one, even down to the biege and brown plastic. Hadn't thought of using it as the Gilman House - great move.
I was going to change the doors and probably put a floor in the side loading bay area with an enclosed area around the back doors. I'll keep mine as a factory as I have an SA board with a railroad track on it and I can use some of my 0N30 rolling stock as scenery (and something to hide behind).
Maybe this weekend.
RMZ
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Now I've seen this one with bigger doors before. I think Gauntman has one in his Gilman thread. I'm not sure how the story goes but I think K Line bought the old Marx molds and than updated them. MY factory was so warped out of the box I had to glue braces inside.
The fron door isn't too bad in terms of scale but that side door wouldn't even fit a tcho tcho.
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Yeah, the way to go on the doors is to simply cut them 2-3mm wider than a 30mm base and simply frame the door with some plasticard. That's the plan with the factory, at least. I despise the fact that the doors on these things are so narrow...they're almost perfectly to scale if the figures had no base....its as if they designed them all for trains or something. Perish the thought...
Now, I've got ideas about the restaurant...just google rusty diner and a million come up. It's certainly going to be some greasy spoon fish fry place but since the text gives no name, I'm thinking of a few options...
Manuxet Restaurant
Manuxet Fish Market
Innsmouth Eatery
I'm tempted to add some humor such as calling it the Ptomain Pot or something but I really want it to be dark, evil, and immersive.
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Gauntman has since deleted the pictures, it looked like the front door they got rid of the stairs and made the door bigger.
Ramirez and I joke that the factory is the greatest pulp building ever designed. It has so many applications -especially the Marsh Refinery.
I never got the diner, I've seen a lot of great conversions. There are a lot of vintage seafood posters out there.
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Funny you say that...I very nearly bought several and may still. I'd think a wharf wouldn't be complete without canneries, warehouses and the like.
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I think I've posted this shot before, but it is a WIP and it has cultisit loading a very clean truck ... and funnily enough this ones a bit warped too - must be the plastic. I was going to add some corner pieces to make it look more like concrete framed building with brick panels (and to hide the corner joints).
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6730377419_b04cf0ab9c_z.jpg)
Whilst looking for the "toy Factory" I also found the single stall brick engine depot (a real bi beast, part of which is just visible on the left hand side of the above photo), a grade crossing shanty, railroad depot/station building and a Bachmann diner; the wonders of the lead and plastic mountain.
I'll try and get some phots of the kits over the weekend.
RMZ
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I was tempted to paint the factory similarly, and put some small rippy-bits of masking tape over spots to make it look like dilapidated paint flaking off so the brickwork showed through. My plan was to paint it grey (mortar), then drybrush the spots I planned to mask with a brick red, then some white highlights (a trick a new friend taught me...Ben..), then mask over it, paint the whole thing taupe or something industrial and truly ugly, then remove the mask and weather the whole thing.
My wife just got me some different, darker reds for our anniversary (you know you've got a good one when she's buying you hobby paints for specific projects after 16 years) and so I'm now committed to make it a brick building. :)
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Pete, Don't forgot to weather with the watered down inks. I little dark brown under the windows and around the eaves.
Watch those windows on that model! I'm still not happy with mine even though I painted them 3 times! I can't wait to see what you do.
My factory colour scheme was based off my work. I work at a huge brick school. It was perfect.
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I use 10:1, 20:1, and 30:1 ratios of mixing "golden brown" Apple Barrel with warm water, with one drop of dish soap. I keep 12 bottles (red apple, true navy blue, flat black, brown oxide brown) for different depths of wash and shades. On that factory, I wanted it to be REALLY rusty and grimy so I made a rust color with brown, red, orange, and a dot of blue, droppered some water on it, and used it at maybe 5 or 7:1. That's under the windows on the brickwork and the really dark spots.
Then I used my washes to do the roof. I'll be adding some moss and whatnot, and then perhaps a cool cigar poster I found online. I printed up two sheets of them and adhere them to the building with glue sticks. Nothing better to put paper on plastic ~forever~ in my opinion. 6 years experience with Science Fair projects for my 11 year old have proven it! :)
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So, I got these Coat d'Arms "magic dip" style shaders, and I have to say...what a difference they make on my models. Holy crap. I never was a big fan of the dip, I'm more of an ink-wash-ink-drybrush kind of guy, but you really can't beat the quick results.
Anyhow, back to the regularly scheduled program....
I always ask myself why I make things look pretty just to ugly them up....but the diner's ready for some dilapidation:
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Nice!
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lovely work
the rear and side windows are made from Testor's magic handy-dandy plastic cement and clear part maker. I wanted to emulate glass blocks, which just really do look smashing in my very biased and proud-father view.
could you explain that a bit more, I'd love that effect for my K-Line Factory...
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This all coming together really well.
:-*
Looking forward to see what happens to the diner.
Great idea with the milk carton windows, consider it officially stolen!
:D
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lovely work
could you explain that a bit more, I'd love that effect for my K-Line Factory...
Google "Testor's clear parts cement". It has a needle point tip and looks a bit like white glue, but a hair more yellow upon application. Put it all the way around a 1/4" or small er aperture like a window or headlight and then draw it across using a toothpick or whatnot and it skins over sort of like oil does on a kid's bubble wand. Dries clear and is very hardy, durable. Just do it LAST becayse if you spray acrylic sealer over it, it hazes up and looks a bit like the front windows do....the milk jugs. Apply it to the back side of the windows, not the visible front side as it runs a bit.
Great way to make clear windows.
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I really like the california blocks on your general store.
The Eatery is a nice model too, especially with the fan in the back. How about a small open sign in the front window.
Nice color scheme as well.
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Funny you mention the "open sign"...I just wrote "Fresh Fish Daily" on the front in black. Tried to make it as close to a wax pencil as possible.
Today I get to add rust. Looked at all kinds of stuff for inspiration by googling "rusty steel diner", "rusty diner", and the like. Looks like a lot of light brown, dark red and dark orange will be all over my paws today...
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Well, as usual, I painted something pretty just to ruin it by letting it rust...just needs to dry, have the windows masked, and be squirted with sealer. I actually redid the front door, just got it mostly rusty, very little green left, not shown in pics.
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I really like the front! The back may be a little drippy, although I noticed the model is still very wet. Great model.
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Yeah, it was wet still. My kid was at a sleep over with her friend and she came home with what looks to be strep. Kid's sick as hell. So, I snapped the shot just to be done with it so I could get her all sorted out...fluff the pillow and whatnot. Sick kids suck.
Regarding the "drips and runs" on the rust, I started with this concept...
(http://canalstreetstation.com/uploads/2/9/3/5/2935213/8323171.gif)
...which was the basis for the color scheme. But, according to the text of the story, all the buildings in Innsmouth were dilapidated to the point of nearly falling apart. The decision I had to make was really whether or not these buildings would be habitable or not. I went with "these people don't mind eating at a diner that looks abandoned...they're FISH PEOPLE!" lol
So, I started looking at what rust would look like, the kind resultant of sheet steel near salt water, so I looked at ships and whatnot...
(http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/jkunnen/jkunnen0811/jkunnen081100003/3814722-horizontal-rusty-corrugated-steel-panel-with-rivets.jpg)
(http://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=338961&size=full)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2465/3946716878_383c722fd9.jpg)
....and then I finished by looking at rusty coastal buildings (canneries) and abandoned mines...
(http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2012/10/29/article-2224832-15BE2CA0000005DC-61_964x579.jpg)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/elijahgarcia/6289011217/
That's how I came up with the color scheme! :) I started with a basecoat of silver metallic, then added the blue stripe, then added the green bits, and once it was nice and pretty, I went and uglied it all up based on the ideas gleaned from the above. I'm not 100% happy with the back...I don't care for the streaks all that much, but not so much that I want to go back and touch it up :)
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Next up is the Masonic Hall of Dagon. I looked up "Masonic Hall" and found a "Masonic Hall And School"....
(http://www.legendsofamerica.com/photos-montana/Masonic%20Hall,%20John%20DeHass,%201863-500.jpg)
...which bears uncanny resemblance of the Plasticville church...
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/inkwell1/013-1.jpg)
So, I'm thinking of caving in a few spots in the roof, adding some rotten rafters with some balsa beams I have lying around that will show through the holes. I have some old Mage Knight tables and chairs that I think will work well to have a long table in the center.
Will update....
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I like that model too! The first thing to go is the powder blue roof. What was the company thinking?
I like the pictures you reference. I didn't even think you could cut off the spire on the top, but it looks appropriate in the picture, almost western. Boarding up the windows might be easier, you could always use the model for another game as well.
What's your idea for colour scheme?
I wish I had done a WIP, this is really fun watching your progress.
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I like that model too! The first thing to go is the powder blue roof. What was the company thinking?
I like the pictures you reference. I didn't even think you could cut off the spire on the top, but it looks appropriate in the picture, almost western. Boarding up the windows might be easier, you could always use the model for another game as well.
What's your idea for colour scheme?
I wish I had done a WIP, this is really fun watching your progress.
If you go to the site in the link it turns out that is actually in Montana, so you were dead on. I figure I can just cut a square of 060 plasticard, cut the ring off that the spire attaches to (the spire is a separate piece) and put a flat top on it. That said, New England architecture is heavily influenced by Europe so I'm not sure that I want to do that. If anything, I'll probably just leave off the cross and cap the top with some glue or something.
As for paint, right now it's all assembled (sans windows) and I've got a floor glued onto the model. I'm going to probably print out something on cardstock and laminate it onto the floor, maybe some rotten planks or something of that nature. The whole building (interior and exterior) are primed gray, and I'm thinking that I'll simply drybrush several coats of different shades of gray on it with a hint of brown to exude old, weathered wood, then brush on some dirty ivory in the direction of the grain to exude peeled, old paint.
The roof will be a brown and black shake roof (the model has molded texture) and I'll probably flock on some ochre green moss to give it a really weathered, nasty look. I did that on the First National Grocery building since it's brick and wood and I didn't do that on the steel diner since steel rust is slightly acidic and not prone to moss and mold as natural buildings are...no food!
I'm still not sure if I want to do the factory first or not. The goal is to be done with most of the set by Christmas so I can get some game time in over the holiday break at work. We're shutting down operations between the 21st and 3rd, so I should have some ample time! I still have a two-story house, two cape cods, the factory, the church, the cop shop, and the firehouse. Not sure all will be a party to Innsmouth, but at least 5 of them will. And I still need to fabricate a river...ugh.
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Youre probably right to leave the factory last as it was the hardest model to paint, especially the windows. One suggestion I could make is get a thin piece of card or stir stick and glue in underneath the awning. When you paint the model paint the stick the same color of the awning. It will cover up the tab holes and give the awning more stability. Watch the walls on the front. it is very delicate with all the windows. The model I bought had some hairline cracks that I made worse by bracing the inside. I just boarded up the windows so you can't see the cracks anyways.
Those glass bricks would look pretty sharp.
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Well, I've learned something tonight. Don't EVER, ever, ever try to use an oven to mess with thermoplastics. Normally, I'd use my heat gun. But, because it's 1AM and I didn't want to wake my sick daughter, and newly sickened wife, I figured, "This will be fine...what could go wrong?"
As usual, I bollocked things by taking short cuts. Not totally buggered, but pretty much so.
See, I was weathering the roof and things were coming along nicely. But I remembered my buddy's roof, and how the edges on his hundred-year old house's roof were sagging, how there were sags in the middle...and so I thought, I can do that. Like an ass, I held the edges over the oven and bent them. Worked great. So, then I decided to go ahead and start working the center, to put some sags in.
Thermoplastics are funny things. They're a bit like man-parts. There's hard, and soft, and not much in between. About a second too long and it went from the former to the latter, and it started stretching. F- all if it didn't sag so much that I couldn't re-form it on the building. Instead of 30 years weathering, I gave it a hundred. Ugh.
Lemons/Lemonade. Now I have to add more beams than I had hoped to make it look even remotely reasonable, and while the roof fits and sits on top, it looks like it was done sloppily. I considered trying it again, stretching it gingerly. I may still. But ignore the whole "looks like ass" part, and look at the weathering.
Anyhow, I started off the weathering using an x-acto to remove the sharp edges, since they're always the first to go, and then I started in on the roof. Cut some holes (hard as all get-out to do, for what it's worth) and started eating away at the edges of the shingles on the ends of the building. All was going well, then I got the melt idea. What a tosser....ugh.
The first pic is the side I haven't chewed up, the second is the "complete" side.
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Hey superflytnt. Your really making some headway with your buildings. Top one mate.
I think the church is still workable, a bit of paint and some exposed rafters like you say and shell look sweet.
I hope your lady's get well soon.
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It is not so bad, mate.
If you have not already stuck the roof down, how about adding an extra row or two of tiles at the bottom using card, so that it overlaps the eaves and hides the bigger gaps?
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Not to worry - unexpected yes. Unrecoverable? not at all
Options include simply making a new roof with 2mm MDF and then making shingle from cardboard and sticking it down - would look quite effective
Or you can press on, try to make some bits to fill in the worst gaps (they'll look like bodgy repair attempts right in line with the theme of the model anyway) and if you hate it, go bck to my above suggestion
Or if you feel totally disenchanted you can send it to me (I've been trying to find one of these in Australia anyway) and I'll say thanks very much because I think that accident or not you are onto a winner! :D
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I know exactly how you feel. Sometimes there just isn't enough time in the day, especially with the family. I often rush things as well. I'm always in a rush to get things done too. :)
The roof is a pretty easy fix for this model, and you wanted it 'rustic' anyways. If you don't like the effect (I think it looks pretty cool myself) you could easily build a new roof out of card. Otherwise paint it up and close in the gaps. I bet it will look pretty awesome. Its a fairly easy model to paint as well.
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Thanks, gents. I have some ideas....
- Redo the roof in plasticard. It's going to be removable as the interior is going to be available for play (I cut off the front door) so that's workable, and I have a bunch lying around.
- Cut rectangular notches where the lowest points are, and run 1/4" x 1/4" balsa rafters through, to indicate a roof that has been so waterlogged over the years it sagged and bowed. My only problem with this is that roofs don't pull back when they sag, just spots fall out.
- Get the heat gun on it and stretch out the worst parts so it ~mostly~ covers the roof.
- Cut each side of the roof into two sections, glue the edges on permanently and leave the large gable section as removable.
I think I favor the latter option, because it gives me the holes I was looking for, but it's the most work because I'll have to have the rafters mate up on either side of the joint to look realistic.
Either way, what a mess! :)
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Well, I cut out beams and hot-melt glued them in place, turns out that it's not bad. Not great, but not bad. Weathered the roof side that wasn't, cut some bits from the roof for the beams to protrude, and all done. Just need to wait for some warmer weather (>50F) to prime and then I'm all set.
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yikes!
It looks like you'll be able to salvage it nicely.
You really Barbacued that one!
Reminds me of the time I was painting some Mos Eisley buildings and I used cheap paint and a bunch of them melted. You actually learn a lot about solvents and paints when you are a modeller.
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Good recovery.
I think that it actually looks better like that.
Plenty of character in that place....
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Good recovery.
I think that it actually looks better like that.
Plenty of character in that place....
Woman: "Why did you marry that ugly tosser?"
Woman 2: "Oh, well, he's not much to look at, but he's loaded with ~character~"
LOL
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You made a bland base model look much better!
I really like it this way much more :D
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Lovely liars, the lot of ya! :)
It's still not warm, but I think I'm going to get this thing painted up, to hell with primer. It's only a ~few~ spots, anyhow. I just need to beat up the building itself now a little, since a pristine sanctuary under that mess isn't really feasible.
I knew this would be much more work the minute I couldn't get the roof cooled fast enough and it started going all disco on me.
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(http://farm1.staticflickr.com/14/15098373_f2685045a1_s.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/soaky/15098373/)
disco lights (http://www.flickr.com/photos/soaky/15098373/) by soaky (http://www.flickr.com/people/soaky/), on Flickr
Based on your comments, how about this for the interior. Doesmanyone make a Saturday Night Fever cultist?
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Well, here's the Esoteric Order Of Dagon hangout...
I started with a black basecoat on the roof. The building was primed already, as was the roof, so it took the paint well..
I then used a dark chocolate, cinnamon, and dark grey drybrushing. After it was all done, I soaked some spots with pot water and then used a paper towel to smudge and remove some paint, blending it. Then I painted the exposed beams grey with a dark brown drybrush. Put some leaf green spots in the depressions where I planned to....
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...put my flocking. I always put a base of flocking in to act as anchors for later flocking. Its an extra step, but it works for me.
The building and steeple had already been primed, but I needed to beat it up a bit. I spent 30 minutes with an x-acto removing the sharp edges all around, so it looks like it's been rotting for years. After that, I used two shades of grey to add some `texture` to the color scheme. Then some antique white in spots. All with a drybrush, mainly.
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Once all that was done all the way around, I highlighted the edges, basically white-lining, and drybrushing. Once it was all done, I realized that I had achieved a really great stone look. A shame it's not a stone building. So, realizing my mistake, I used some Coat D'Arms dark brown super shader. That stuff is BRILLIANT. Gave a great wood hue, and made the whole thing a little tacky so the drybrushing stuck to it, even just with a little bit of pigment.
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I outlined the face with some reds and blacks, and did the same on the steeple. Looks like an old, weathered building. I then went back over it with grey, a touch of black, and then that antique white again. The thing has so much paint on it that it may actually deflect bullets at this point.
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Final touches were doing the windows with glass block, since it was 11:30 and I was not cutting milk-jug windows. The entire interior is dark red. I was going to steal my daughter's crackle paint, but I decided it was a recipe for disaster. I finished up by epoxying on the steeple, final fit, epoxying on the base, and finishing the roof flocking and little details.
Tomorrow evening comes the final flocking, and adding the interior. Thinking posters and a rug or something. Might make an actual cloth rug out of one of my youngest daughter's old terry bibs. Will see if I can steal it before mamasan comes home from work...
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The front.
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:-* A Triumph!!!!! ;D
Well done indeed, lovely in an Innsmouth way 8)
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I have that church somewhere - was part of a job lot with a factory I wanted and as it's a very American design, doubt I'll use it.
but you've rescued it quite well, especially the roof
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Awesome, I actually like the roof a lot better, especially with all the moss and vegetation. Good work!
I like the dry rushing and ageing on the panelling as well.
You've got the beginnings of a Innsmouth board all right.
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I have to admit, this is the coolest looking thing I've ever done to terrain. The pictures just don't do justice and even the pictures are great.
Quite pleased. I'm thinking some low bushes, weeds, and vegetation on the base. Not sure whether to use yellowing, dying stuff, sand, or static grass.
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:o :o :o
Bloody hell!
That looks great.
The 'cooking' of the roof has really helped bring this together as a battered and rotting old building.
Superb, loving the weathering.
I will be giving that panelling trick a go myself. Oh yes!
:-* :-* :-*
I would definitely go with old and rotting vegetation on the base.
Dont forget that you can always drybrush flock and other scenic material, too.
;)
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I like :D
Top job there fella. Dilapidated cult church. Done!
What's next? 8)
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I like :D
Top job there fella. Dilapidated cult church. Done!
Almost..I have final touches to do, so I sealed it all with acrylic spray since it was FINALLY warm enough to get that sorted. I wanted to protect the awesome since, historically, I always screw my lovelies up with the last step! Going to flock the base and call it an early night.
What's next? 8)
The only one primed and assembled is the Factory, so that's the next building. The only question left is whether I should get some tetured grey paint and squirt the 2x3 felt, if I should upgrade to a 3x3 felt in order to accommodate a larger layout, or make the roads from plasticard.
I think I want to just tape off areas where the buildings will go and spray some "road" down so I don't have to muck about with it. I'd like modular roads and river, but honestly, it's much more effort and I'm not convinced it will look better.
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I think we're overdue an AAR and a pic of your table superfly... ;)
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I think we're overdue an AAR and a pic of your table superfly... ;)
here here! :)
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I believe you may be thinking of Mason..
My AAR would amount to...
"Wife rolled 6s all night, with LOS on my entire squad with the .30 Lewis. I was puddinged."
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Looking good ...
RMZ
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Love the building, the moss really added to the effect.
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I am not a fan of Plasticville buildings at all. But you really blew it away on this one. Great work.
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(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/375294_404009279679021_675220605_n.jpg)
For the last 3 days (obviously on and off) have been working on the Manuxet for my Innsmouth board. Materials are paper (stolen again, Sir Mason) plasticard, Sculpey, stone, PVA glue, hot-melt glue, false reeds, and stone.
I've been taking WIP pics, will post tuto when it's complete. Above is just the teaser.
Consider yourselves teased!
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Wow, that already look very nice.
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Coming along very nicely, superflytnt!
Dont forget a little highlighting at the top of the ripples.... ;)
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Looking good! Wonderful inspiration for my own board :)
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Looking good! Wonderful inspiration for my own board :)
Ooooh!
Mr Wolf has his beady eyes set on a board now.
Looking forward to it.
Oh, YES!
;D
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Dont forget a little highlighting at the top of the ripples.... ;)
That's the final touch; it's all done now, I just need to head to Hobby Lobby and get some water resin or clear PU varnish. I considered using some clear RTV silicone mold-making stuff I have lying around here, like I did when I made my lake, but I decided to do it with conventional materials.
That said....the bridge is awaiting Dullcote but is otherwise complete...
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/28084_404771652936117_1748394490_n.jpg)
...and while waiting for stuff to dry, I cobbled together a nice timber pile and some pallets to go inside the Marsh Refinery...
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/483229_404771609602788_46387620_n.jpg)
I just need to download the WIP pictures of the Manuxet and I'll have a nice tutorial to offer.
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Awesome work, I can't wait to see it all done. I like the modular capabilities.
Fabulous purse by the way. :P
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It's a SATCHEL!!! A SATCHEL!!!
(I hear all the guys have them in Europe...)
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This is all coming together very nicely.
Looking forward to the final piccies.
:-*
It's a SATCHEL!!! A SATCHEL!!!
(I hear all the guys have them in Europe...)
Not in these parts, mate...
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Hey if it's good enough for Indiana Jones, it's good enough for me.
In Canada we call it a man purse or a murse.
I have to be careful, I once got drywall compound on my wife's purse because I forgot to move it off the table while I was working on some buildings.
It's only fun until someone gets spackle on your wife's purse.
Pete, you bring a great creative energy to the game. This is my favourite thread right now.
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And so it begins...
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The struggle continues...
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And the river rages...
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And the end. The last thing to do is varnish it.
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That is an inspired river build. Thanks for the tutorial.
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Job well done!
I do not have a river myself, just some docks, so this may just be the thing to make me pull my finger out and make one.
:D
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Job well done!
I do not have a river myself, just some docks, so this may just be the thing to make me pull my finger out and make one.
:D
If I had to do it all over again, I'd not do it. What a pain.
I found this..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/wargames-river-15mm-28mm-FOG-FOW-warhammer-handmade-by-FAT-FRANK-/271036787599?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item3f1b0d2b8f
...after the fact and I was KICKING myself. So, I bought some roads instead. They're dispatched from the UK, so for you guys across the pond it's a real deal. Check out that seller's other stuff, it's really brill stuff.
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Marsh Refinery WIP:
I basecoated it with grey primer for mortar (and the interior) so I could save some steps, but unfortunately I didn't add the floor until afterward. Anyhow, I drybrushed with "Tuscan Red" and "Red Apple" with the latter being VERY light highlights. I wanted it to look old, but not decrepit as the story states that it's one of the few buildings still in reasonably good repair.
Anyhow, did the wood tones with a 3 color treatment, used OldBen1's patented (and oft-pilfered) milk jug windows instead of the glass blocks I had originally planned, primarily due to the ABSOLUTE burnout on these buildings I'm experiencing at this point. :)
But that wasn't enough. I used some Sculpey and Plasticard to make a gold brick form, a small crucible, and a stack of gold ingots. I used 2 pill bottles and some straws to create two chemical tanks for precipitation tanks (assumed agua regia process) as well as a yogurt container for a smelting kettle (including tin top for molten gold). Finally, I used some Plasticard, a straw, and balsa to make what I'm guessing is a power panel of some kind.
All in all, pretty happy with most of it. Still some work to do, but it's almost where I want it to be.
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Great stuff you are making superflytnt, great inspiration as well.
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Awesomesauce!!! ;D
You can even see a Deep One Tiara in the corner... ;)
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:o
Great build!
I love all the additional detail that you have added, especially the interior.
It is the little things that bring a piece to life.
Well done, mate, it certainly is lovely!
:-*
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Your going at a great pace recently superflytnt. It's all looking great.
I made some canal sections for my Mordheim games an age ago and haven't grown the balls yet to paint the water.... Looks like I'm going to have to man up and just get stuck in there.
Anyone got any good tips for painting rivers/ murky waterways?
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Anyone got any good tips for painting rivers/ murky waterways?
I am going to be making some river sections soon (inspired by superflytnt's recent output), maybe a few WIP shots may be helpful.
Or you could always pop round and make your own at the same time....
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I made some brown water rivers for my Vietnam terrain a few years back. I used Marine Varnish to get the water effect and it worked really well. You really have to paint both sides though or your river sections will warp badly over time
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Wow! Great work!
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Tho apparently Innsmouth buys their refiners in china. :o
Sorry superflytnt. Only just noticed it.
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Tho apparently Innsmouth buys their refiners in china. :o
Sorry superflytnt. Only just noticed it.
Just make a sign to stick over it.
;)
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The irony here is that I'm actually a raw materials procurer for a metal refinery, and gold is one of the metals that we refine, with one of our largest competitors being....CHINA. ;)
About the rivers, I bought a book over the holidays that I found on Scribd. It's "GW: How To Build Wargames Terrain". You can view the whole thing here:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/37992103/GW-How-to-Make-Wargames-Terrain
Page 36 gives ~great~ instruction on rivers. I got it for 8 USD or so on Amazon.com because I just can't handle reading PDFs...same reason I spent 60 bucks having the SA books that are PDF only printed and spiral bound to match the core books. ;)
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I made some brown water rivers for my Vietnam terrain a few years back. I used Marine Varnish to get the water effect and it worked really well. You really have to paint both sides though or your river sections will warp badly over time
That is PRECISELY the reason I used plasticard backing on my rivers and sculpey as the banks..all flexible. I assumed they'd warp so I figured that since it was inevitable, I'd use a thermoplastic material. When it did warp, I used a hair dryer (I actually KILLED that dryer) to warm the piece, then I laid down heavy books on the banks immediately after laying the piece on wax paper (wasn't sure it wouldn't melt and stick to the table).
In any event, flattened the buggers right out.
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Wow, sorry I've been away. I love the brick work on the refinery! You added some really great details on a model that has a strange interior. This is the best pulp model ever. it paints so well. I can't wait to see how you incorporate the river system. I'll have to start asking you for painting tips. very inspirational.
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Very nice work superfly. Nice to see another Heroscaper here!
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'Sup, A-Train! Hope all's well with you, mate. Been a while!
Oldben1, you're kidding me. Dude, between you and Mason, you two fellas are MY inspiration. I'm standing on the shoulders of giants here. No BS. I never would've gotten these Plasticville things had it not been for you, and I'd never have done the river had it not been for Mason. And that's not even counting how many countless model ideas I've stolen (secretly) from him! :)
So it's you guys I have to thank!
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Well, it works two ways, mate.
That river of yours has reminded me that I need to make one of my own.
I have a few things to finish off first, but when they are done I will have to get on to it.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Now, about those stolen model ideas.....
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It has occurred to me that a major architectural mistake has been made...the Marsh Refinery is belfried. Luckily, seeing as I have the Town Hall kit (which will be the Gilman House once I'm done with that bugger) I have one lying around. But the clock tower isn't part of the building in the story, so I had to make one.
Not really happy with it, but after I put some wood panel over the skin and add some shingles...maybe.
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Not sure the architecture matches up. it is an interesting idea. Think the model is okay without the top. I'm sure you'll make it work though.
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Wow, I love the new stuff you made!
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Awesome work, SF!!
I need to find all of that old train scenery stashed away now.
T.
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I found my Innsmouth setup...still missing some small buildings but it's mostly sorted out. My 4 year old decided that the Deep Ones had enough fun already, and that it was time for some Pony Power.
She knocked over all my wee men and took over the town!
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Those damned ponies!!!
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Related: http://theriona.deviantart.com/art/My-Lil-Deep-One-259254937[/color]]http://theriona.deviantart.com/art/My-Lil-Deep-One-259254937 (http://[color=blue)
:D
o_o
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MY LITTLE PONY!!!!
:o :o :o
That has to be the most terrifying thing that has been posted on this board for a long time!
They certainly start raising 'em in the Cult at a very young age in your neck of the woods, mate.
;)
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What, you never heard of Blue's Cthuluhus?
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You sir, are a lucky man. My niece is quickly outgrowing fun toys and silliness.
Let the Ponies play through.
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My kids love to play with "daddy's little buildings"too. lol. You'll have to make sure you clear coat everything twice!