Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => It's Alive! => Topic started by: Dr Mathias on June 16, 2013, 07:21:57 AM
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I'm embarking upon what will surely be a long project, inspired almost in full by the Phipps' wonderful terrain thread, found here:
Pulp Alley Buildings by the Phipps' (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=15132.0)
I plan to create a large number of buildings, including a substantial market and accoutrements. My hope is that they will be 'generic' enough to fit in Zanzibar, Khartoum, or Arabia as required. I started with a largish fortified building, which I used in my Round 9 LPL harem exterior scene.
I began with a drawing to work out dimensions and built a basic form out of Gatorfoam, which is like foamcore but far more tough, and correspondingly more expensive. I used this material because it is durable, and I wanted to have decorative crenelations atop the walls so that it had a relatively imposing appearance. I measured out the walls and cut the major forms on a bandsaw. The crenelations and arches were cut using a coping saw and a jeweler's saw. It wasn't as time consuming as I expected, it took about two hours from pencil to having all the components cut and ready to glue. It certainly pays to have access to the right tools for the job at hand.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg_Dr_Mathias_zpsa5d16f8b.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg2_Dr_Mathias_zps944ba673.jpg)
Windows have been masked off with blue painter's tape. After reading the Phipps' thread it sounded like the texture can get thick, and I knew I wanted the windows to look inset and flush. I also wanted some exposed brick, so I used a few pieces of brickwork from one of the Keebler small brick molds (they're like Hirst Arts molds). I also added some trim, buttressing, etc. You might be able to spot where I imbedded two magnets in the corner walls- I'm thinking ahead there and I hope to make some walls that will attach and be held in place magnetically.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg3_Dr_Mathias_zps5e2b8a58.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg4_Dr_Mathias_zpse51e672f.jpg)
The next step was to paint on Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler. Use the regular stuff, not 'MAX' which I found too gritty for this purpose. It may show up on a new tree project at some point. Use a ratty brush, and 'dabbing' is better than 'brushing'. I really like this material for texturing. Mix a little water into the top layer to thin it a bit. Thanks for the info Phipps!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg5_Dr_Mathias_zpse39e5d31.jpg)
I wanted my building to look more detailed than the usual 'foamcore box look' that middle eastern buildings often have (according to one poster here on LAF). I looked for some three dimensional decorative elements in the scrapbooking section of Michael's, a US based hobby store. The shapes looked vaguely Islamic to my untrained eye... I bought two packs which was one too many since I intended to recast them using an Insta-Mold press mold. It is a resuable substance that you heat in water, making it malleable. You press it around the form you want to copy- it sets quickly and produces good results. After making several molds I created a bunch of castings using Sculpey. The Sculpey is pretty soft and easily deformed- you can put it the freezer for a couple minutes to facilitate ease of removal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldgDetail_Dr_Mathias_zps2d50fd86.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldgDetail2_Dr_Mathias_zps192c4df5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldgDetail3_Dr_Mathias_zps5fc890be.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldgDetail4_Dr_Mathias_zpsef8547d8.jpg)
After making the castings (about 45 minutes), I baked them for fifteen minutes at 275 degrees F, per the instructions on the box.
The next stage of the building texture process was to coat it with thinned wood glue. I glued the decorative elements on at this point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg6_Dr_Mathias_zps45d4e00f.jpg)
After the glue has dried, paint the building with thinned white water based paint. I used an indoor flat latex.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg8_Dr_Mathias_zps92beafe2.jpg)
The next step is staining. I dabbed/brushed on a layer of MinWax Wood Stain, 'Golden Oak'. I let this dry overnight (that might have been an issue- I didn't get a dramatic paint separation/mottled look like you see in the Phipps thread. I'm not quite sure why, I'll have to do some experimentation).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg9_Dr_Mathias_zpsd633a57e.jpg)
After the staining step, paint the entire building with the thinned white water base paint. It should create a wonderful layered texture. It's a lot of work, but I think the results are worth it.
I made the windows by printing out some Islamic screens I sized in Photoshop. I mounted the sheet to a piece of matboard, the material used in framing images on paper behind glass. I painted the edge of the matboard to match the screens.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg10_Dr_Mathias_zps2ad9b469.jpg)
I removed the tape and glued in the windows, and used a little piece of heavy paper slit down the center for a curtain. I airbrushed the soft gradient in this case.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg11_Dr_Mathias_zpse7523e77.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg12_Dr_Mathias_zps33f3717f.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v366/Bosal/Harem%20Building/MEBldg13_Dr_Mathias_zps66e6680d.jpg)
I need to rework the trapdoor on the roof and redo the front door (I want it to look bronze) but it's pretty much done. I'm quite happy with it- particularly because I started it and submitted it into the LPL within 4 days. I plan to create a second building to go with this one, and walls so that I can form a compound around a central court. The main reason (the only reason, actually) is because I have three peacocks that need a home :)
I hope this is helpful, feel free to ask questions! A HUGE thanks to d phipps, who pioneered this texturing technique and was very kind in answering my questions.
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You make it sound so simple,top notch!
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Excellent result! You make it sound way too simple doing the crenelations! o_o o_o :-*
Can't wait to what comes next!!
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A great build - thanks for the tutorial. :)
Any chance we can have those screens to use in Photoshop file? I'd love some for Indostan.
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Effing brill! Since it is a complete tutorial, I'd like to move this to How to... if thats alright.
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You make it sound way too simple doing the crenelations!
This ^^^^
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Damn fine work :D
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:-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
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Honestly top notch building. Also, thank you for a great tutorial. It was full of useful tips I have never heard before. Top marks from me.
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@dr Mathias
Thank You very much for showing how you built the impressive structure we all admired in the LPL.
Also let me congratulate You on skills and ingenuity in execution.
I like Your "Haram" very much.
Since You mentioned that You wanted to do a whole series of oriental buildings, please allow me a few critical remarks:
Unfortunately, traditional "oriental" architecture is a bit boring for the eye, because from the streets one will see mostly naked walls and screened turkish balconies, and the occasional covered galleries on the ground floors where there is commercial activity. Richer buildings will have the beautifully crenelated enclosures of the roof terraces. This is a plus for the wargamer of course. The whole private life takes place on the inside in courtyards, but this is a problem for wargamers because then you need large enclosed spaces and wargaming buildings tend to be size reduced.
Usually, large windows will show to an interior courtyard. Balconies are always covered as a niche in the so called turkish style and they are the only opening in exterior walls. Galleries are covered and in an interior court, and additionally screened if belonging to a haram, which are always on an upper level if part of a large house. Terraces are usually on top of the uppermost floor in living homes. In garrisson buildings they can be on lower floors, but are then battlements. In very large palaces there are terraces on upper floors, usually as gardens, but then they are completely enclosed by high walls. This general layout poses a dilemma for the wargamer, as moving miniatures in narrow streets is difficult, but mirrors the actual real problems of fighting in oriental cities.
Of course, for Pulp Fiction wargaming, Hollywood style scenery is perfect, since the genre is fictional anyway and represents our western cliches and orientalized view. It is my impression that the oriental movie sets were inspired by the hispanic influenced architecture in California, which does carry a good measure of resemblence to the original.
That said, please show us more of Your wonderful craftsmanship and detailing
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Wow! :o :o :o
Great tutorial, I have learned a lot. Many thanks!
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excellent tutorial, you make it look so easy!
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Kudos . A superb entry and a great how to
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Accurate or no, it looks lovely - doubly so for the speed of construction!
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Some stunning detail :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
Excellent result! You make it sound way too simple doing the crenelations! o_o o_o :-*
Can't wait to what comes next!!
Got to agree with this.
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Fine work indeed!
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Really top notch :o :-* :o :-* I am looking forward to the furure of this project.
LB
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Corking build Dr M :-* :-*
One slight comment might to recess the windows for the next one and give them a bit if depth but great nonetheless 8)
cheers
James
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Since You mentioned that You wanted to do a whole series of oriental buildings, please allow me a few critical remarks:
<snip>
Thanks for the comments, I do appreciate it. The size-reduced nature of wargame terrain does pose a problem, I hope the removable walls helps that a bit.
I will admit that I didn't do enough research on the historical accuracy side, I was somewhat discouraged by my online searching. As seems to be the case with most cultures, searching for houses and architecture seems to bring up the grand and sublime examples, like the Taj Mahal, not the 'everyday'. From your description, Islamic cultures seem to have a lot in common with the houses in New Orleans... pretty plain on the outside, with beautiful courtyards that you're lucky to get a glimpse of. I'd love to have some better pics of 'reality', even if they're boring on the outside :)
Thanks again!
One slight comment might to recess the windows for the next one and give them a bit if depth but great nonetheless 8)
James
Thanks! I plan to try a few different things on the next builds and I agree that depth is important. I initially printed two sets of windows, and cut the frame off one and glued it atop the other- but I didn't think that little change was worth the effort in that case and I was tight on time to boot.
Thanks everyone, comments and criticisms are more than welcome.
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:o :-*
Thanks for a detailed tut about your building techniques, and for showing the AMAZING complete building.
You make everything sound sooo easy...
But no doubt for us mere mortals things can't be THAT easy... ;D
Best wishes.
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You make everything sound sooo easy...
The hardest part is probably the design and layout... I mitered the corners for example, and had to do some pretty precise measurements. Ensuring that the crenelations spaced out and end as corners, the main entrance doorways facing the center arcade arch, spacing the gallery, floor elements etc. all take some thought and planning and require spatial thought and design. Really thinking about the project before the pencil hits paper or foamboard is essential.
The cutting and execution really isn't that tough. I hope I'm not making light of that aspect, I know some people are all thumbs... I have some in my classes every semester, and they can't tell a quarter inch from an eighth inch on a ruler. Use sharp blades, measure three times before cutting, and don't freak out if you make a mistake, almost anything can be repaired :) That said I've used an Xacto and ruler uncounted thousands of times and like anything else practice makes perfect :)
I'll show details the next time I cut decorative walls, and what tools I use so you get a better idea of what's involved. Frankly, the texturing method used here covers a lot of minor flaws that would otherwise appear pretty sloppy. A great deal of the success of this build comes down to the brush handling on the various layers... 'painting' vs. 'dabbing' vs. 'stippling' and just being aware of the movements and what effect they have.
I love painting though... huge sets for theatrical productions, miniatures, oil paintings, house interiors... it's all the same with minor variations in how the paint handles.
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Excellent work. Not sure of my accuracy with a coping saw though...I am good with filler but notoriously bad with cutting....I would probably add the crenellations with a piece of flatwood and then topped with dowel.
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@Dr Mathias
yes, it is interestingly very roman in concept - the basic principles are privacy and light and heat management.
I understand what You mean, the big mosques come first - if I You want to do a bit of research, I just sent You a few links
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I understand what You mean, the big mosques come first - if I You want to do a bit of research, I just sent You a few links
Thank you very much!
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and one further remark please:
Your vignette has a very strong narrative because it serves cliches we know from Hollywood movies, and it probably wouldn't have, had the Haram terrace been authentically in an interior courtyard.
sometimes such attempts to make things more accurate (like mine, sorry) can ruin the story..... :(
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@dr Mathias
Thank You very much for showing how you built the impressive structure we all admired in the LPL.
Also let me congratulate You on skills and ingenuity in execution.
I like Your "Haram" very much.
Since You mentioned that You wanted to do a whole series of oriental buildings, please allow me a few critical remarks:
Unfortunately, traditional "oriental" architecture is a bit boring for the eye, because from the streets one will see mostly naked walls and screened turkish balconies, and the occasional covered galleries on the ground floors where there is commercial activity. Richer buildings will have the beautifully crenelated enclosures of the roof terraces. This is a plus for the wargamer of course. The whole private life takes place on the inside in courtyards, but this is a problem for wargamers because then you need large enclosed spaces and wargaming buildings tend to be size reduced.
Usually, large windows will show to an interior courtyard. Balconies are always covered as a niche in the so called turkish style and they are the only opening in exterior walls. Galleries are covered and in an interior court, and additionally screened if belonging to a haram, which are always on an upper level if part of a large house. Terraces are usually on top of the uppermost floor in living homes. In garrisson buildings they can be on lower floors, but are then battlements. In very large palaces there are terraces on upper floors, usually as gardens, but then they are completely enclosed by high walls. This general layout poses a dilemma for the wargamer, as moving miniatures in narrow streets is difficult, but mirrors the actual real problems of fighting in oriental cities.
Of course, for Pulp Fiction wargaming, Hollywood style scenery is perfect, since the genre is fictional anyway and represents our western cliches and orientalized view. It is my impression that the oriental movie sets were inspired by the hispanic influenced architecture in California, which does carry a good measure of resemblence to the original.
That said, please show us more of Your wonderful craftsmanship and detailing
I have to chime in with former user and critically point out that the authentic 'haram' is much, much larger. People of an average 175 to 185 cm height would be able to move around in them.
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Awesome job, Doctor! I'll have to give the Elmer's texturing a try. The process I've been using involves several more steps and is much more labor and time intensive.
I think I would also "punt" on the crenellations and find some Hobby Lobby / Michaels craft store piece to glue atop it. Putting the decorative touches in mold is genius, thoug! I think even I might be able to follow that...
So, what wargame convention will that harem appear at? I might want to make the trip to see (and game on it) in person...!
Mike Demana
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I think I would also "punt" on the crenelations and find some Hobby Lobby / Michael's craft store piece to glue atop it. Putting the decorative touches in mold is genius, thoug! I think even I might be able to follow that...
I'm thinking about sculpting a few that are the width of the foam I use, casting them up with dental plaster, and gluing them on top of a straight cut. I'm not entirely sure that would save time though, and would certainly be more expensive.
So, what wargame convention will that harem appear at? I might want to make the trip to see (and game on it) in person...!
I've run things at NukeCon in Omaha, and Recruits in Kansas City. They're both in the autumn... if I'm going to get a table full of terrain and actually run a game I need to get cracking...
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Stunningly good work, great level of detail and so wonderfully solid. 8)
That Gatorfoam looks like an interesting material. I found some basic info on it: http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/category.aspx?id=368 (http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/category.aspx?id=368)
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This simply looks beautifull.
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I have to chime in with former user and critically point out that the authentic 'haram' is much, much larger. People of an average 175 to 185 cm height would be able to move around in them.
lol lol lol
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lol lol lol
;)
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Lovely work!
I love the methodic approach you make.
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Am I the only one who got a chuckle of Harry Flashman on the ledge in the last picture!? lol Surely not...
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No, lol, I have that figure in my lead pile.
Am I the only one who got a chuckle of Harry Flashman on the ledge in the last picture!? lol Surely not...
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Poor Mathias has probably been waiting three pages (and as many days) to see who would finally point that out! lol
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Great work :-*
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;)
lol lol lol
Wonderful model and the Flashman touch is genius :-* :-* :-*
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lol lol lol
Wonderful model and the Flashman touch is genius :-* :-* :-*
It is.
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Not much to include in an update unfortunately.
I set out the components of the six Modellbau Najewitz North African buildings and shook my head at the sheer number of palm trees I planned to use.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/20/4060_16_01_15_10_57_45_0.jpg)
Then I started on the buildings, which are quite the pain in the ass. It took about eight to ten solid hours of work just to them to this stage. Even though I wore a dust mask I'm sure I knocked a decade off my life, there was so much dust generated from the belt sander I needed to flatten the backs of the pieces. This was necessary so that I could clear out the window screens and get an even fit on the walls. The depth of the components varied a lot- they're cast from open face molds. This is a big problem on the crenellations, which are separate pieces. Some pieces were missing corners because the pour was too thin and the mold was not level.
The wood support bars are cast in one piece with a perpendicular bar to support the roof… these do not fit right and required clipping and breaking apart to get them spaced right- not to mention having to bore out square holes to get many of the beams in. I discovered I was shorted beams for two of the buildings, so I had to acquire a piece of basswood to use for the missing pieces. I wish I'd started with that method because it went much quicker. If you intend to get these buildings, bin the included beams and make your own.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/20/4060_16_01_15_10_57_46_1.jpg)
I think they will look good once the filler is sanded and they're painted, but I was not expecting this much work. If not for this project page I'd have set them aside :)
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That's oustanding, is that Flashy I spy? 8)
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I feel with you! I once built Najewitz roman Villa, and I can tell you There were moments in which I was very close to a breakdown. When Jens Najewitz startet his venture his houses were lasercut from Mdf. I guess that worked much better. That said his stuff is beautifull when assembled and painted.
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I feel with you! I once built Najewitz roman Villa, and I can tell you There were moments in which I was very close to a breakdown. When Jens Najewitz startet his venture his houses were lasercut from Mdf. I guess that worked much better. That said his stuff is beautifull when assembled and painted.
Thanks for the emotional support Lt. :)
The interesting thing about these buildings is that I could tell that the masters used to make the molds were laser cut mdf. It's clever how there's two layers to produce the screens and depth in the wall.
As you know those MDF kits can have some really nice tight tolerances but when translated to resin there's going to be warping and a whole host of other problems.
I'm sure at the end I'll have forgotten the bad points, I have a habit of doing that :)
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I'm sure at the end I'll have forgotten the bad points, I have a habit of doing that :)
The same here :) A great start, Matt, these buildings are looking very promising, looking forward to see what you're going to make out of them.
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Excellent work. I am reminded that an artist always suffers for their art.
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All grief aside, they are going to be wonderful when finished, I am sure.
:D
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I managed to do some significant work on the Modellbau Najewitz buildings today. I tried doing some staining over a primer layer, which didn't give the look I wanted so I ended up painting them with a flat indoor latex, then picking out the screens, posts, and doors with brown. This was followed with a stain of MinWax Golden Oak. It doesn't quite match the Harem building but then again total uniformity in the coloration isn't a great idea anyway.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tmRdkO0Hfq0/VMQeIa9US4I/AAAAAAAAAJU/zaUxPFmPh-0/s1600/Buildings2.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T_WpfJ-7yx0/VMQeIRih4MI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/MNWREET3NxQ/s1600/Buildings3.jpg)
I pretty much have the bronze doors to do, then I can put these bad boys to bed.
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Looking good.
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Wow, just wow! These buildings look amazing already!
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That really is stunning
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Love the smooth tonal variations.
:-* :-*
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They look great.
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Awesome! Have always loved these buildings and you've done a great job on them. The crenelations look great.
What exactly do you intend to do with them?
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They look amazing but considering the work you had to put into them it begs the question why they are cast in resin at all if they were moulded from laser cut mdf. Surely that would be a better media to use...certainly quicker to assemble and less prone to warping. That said you can be proud of what you have achieved, as they look amazing!
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Amazing piece of work, Matt, they look very good!
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Thanks for the remarks. Now that I'm this far the pain is fading :)
What exactly do you intend to do with them?
They'll be used for colonial, pulp, and VSF games. Mostly for photo shoots though- I rarely play anything.
They look amazing but considering the work you had to put into them it begs the question why they are cast in resin at all if they were moulded from laser cut mdf.
That's a good question. A couple of the wall panels have a third layer, such as a thin doorframe, or some columns in the case of the government building. The columns are rounded, which couldn't be done in MDF. It could also be that the manufacturer didn't have a laser, but had casting ability and had the masters cut by a third party. That's just a guess though :)
I think some of the buildings could have easily been all MDF.
After this I'll be starting market stalls and some methods of integrating the palms into an urban setting.
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Lovely work and a very useful thread. I've been contemplating the modern buildings but it seems like there is a lot of work prepping them.
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Wonderful :-* :-* :-*
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Wonderful work on that kits! :-*
That's a good question. A couple of the wall panels have a third layer, such as a thin doorframe, or some columns in the case of the government building. The columns are rounded, which couldn't be done in MDF. It could also be that the manufacturer didn't have a laser, but had casting ability and had the masters cut by a third party. That's just a guess though :)
I think some of the buildings could have easily been all MDF.
He definitely has a laser cutter. He is always attending the Tactica show in Hamburg and shows his cutter working there. Why he went over to resin casting seems to be a mystery. Problem is, he is not a very friendly guy, so better don't ask ... 8)
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I started on some 'planters' for the various palm trees I have set aside for this project. It seems like most other tables have palms scattered around just popping out of the sand and I wanted a few to be more integrated into the urban landscape.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/20/4060_28_01_15_10_01_10.jpg)
The star shape is going to be a fountain once I do some serious filling of gaps.
I also started a mud brick wall project tangential to this one, more about that on my blog:
http://miniatureextravaganza.blogspot.com/
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Great stuff, the buildings have turned out a treat :)
cheers
James
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Finished up major work on the main buildings today. I'll probably do some stains and another wash on the woodwork.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FTVuaOGw6Y8/VMv7Sh62akI/AAAAAAAAAKs/kyzt_DMrwxM/s1600/Buildings4.jpg)
I also started on some walls using leftover parts from the buildings and foamcore, and made some progress on the planters and fountain.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UCS0NcC-aik/VMv7Sp9_z-I/AAAAAAAAAKw/sFnAItYT53Y/s1600/Walls2.jpg)
My special thanks to Professor Witchheimer for dreaming up the thread necromancy project- I'm happy to see this one resurrected and on the way to filling a table. :)
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That's going to be a great set when done :)
Keep going Matt 8)
cheers
James
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Looking good :)
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I'm really impressed with this. Look forward to seeing more.
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That's going to be a great layout :-*
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I finally managed to finish phase 2 of the project, the walls and planters.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MPvHCHOHuWo/VPoGBvmu_BI/AAAAAAAAAPc/-jsULfGu-Fs/s1600/BrickWalls9.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nFPTiPgYQ3o/VPoF_Tw6SKI/AAAAAAAAAO4/qZJM0IWtnaA/s1600/BrickWalls10.jpg)
Plus my mud brick walls for the Darkest Africa Congo project.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ASG-MU06FWs/VPoGBNwCwXI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/cvcxIrvbCoY/s1600/BrickWalls8.jpg)
More details and pics on the blog.
Miniature Extravaganza - North African Buildings (http://miniatureextravaganza.blogspot.com/2015/03/north-african-buildings-part-4.html)
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Great work!
The tiles around the side of the fountain are very effective. And the chapel's looking good too.
Finally - is this is your workshop (there's so many tables/room)?
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Finally - is this is your workshop (there's so many tables/room)?
It's the drawing/design studio at my workplace :)
I take up more room than the students sometimes, 'nature abhors a vacuum' ;)
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Beautiful.
:-* :-*
How did you pull off the tiling around the fountain and planters?
It looks amazing.
:-*
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My compliments on your North African Buildings.
You have inspired me to attempt a few of these, following your and your advisor's efforts. I do not currently have any figures appropriate for these structures, but hey, why not start another period.
I am sure these buildings would do for several periods and would be a good investment of time and effort. I like the window, ornaments and tiles (on the fountain).
Your work demonstrates you have a good "eye" for color and composition. Are the tiles made from ribbon glued to the rim of the fountain? Thanks for sharing your methods and results.
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Thanks for the comments, much appreciated.
How did you pull off the tiling around the fountain and planters?
Are the tiles made from ribbon glued to the rim of the fountain? Thanks for sharing your methods and results.
That's just a laser-printed border. The fountain has a texture to it though, so I masked the area where to border would be so it stayed flat- the border was applied last, after painting, so it ends up looking slightly recessed. It's the same border I used in my LPL entry "Disarmed in Algeria"- I had some left over that I'd saved.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=28150.0;attach=3403;image)
The Phipps' excellent thread is a great resource. The order of layers to get the texture is kind of confusing upon read through- I had to ask them for clarification.
Essentially:
1. Build the building. Mask doors/windows on the inside so they will lay flush after texturing.
2. Texture with thinned carpenter's wood filler (Elmers)
3. Seal with thinned wood glue (Tightbond Wood Glue)
4. Paint with thinned white interior flat latex
5. Solvent based stain (MinWax Wood Finish Golden Oak)
6. Paint with thinned white interior flat latex
Sounds like a lot of work but the results are really quite nice.
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Love the update, and those borders work so well with the setting :) I'm always very vary of printing on paper and glueing on, but post after post on LAF have convinced me otherwise.
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Wow! Cracking update Doc!
Whats your source for the trees bud?
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What a fabulous thread...lots of inspiration for my own Arabian world.
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Thanks guys :)
Whats your source for the trees bud?
I found them on eBay, from a Chinese seller. I've tried making my own and it's just not worth the effort. It was a couple years back so I'm not quite sure on the source.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/250817934594?nav=SEARCH
That looks like the tall thin ones but I'm pretty sure I didn't pay that much.
I sprayed them with a tan Krylon Fusion, mostly from below and on the trunk, to help with adhesion. I glued the fronds on with two part epoxy, and scattered a bit of brown static grass over the glue before it set. That helps make the tree look a little more natural. Then a light airbrush of brown on the stem and a dark green from below. Slight dry brush on the stem to pick out a bit of texture.
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What is the source for the harem girls? Love the blue pattern detailing.
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What is the source for the harem girls? Love the blue pattern detailing.
All five are Hasslefree- they have added a few more concubines/harem girls since I did that project.
http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?category=fantasy-%26%0D%0Asteampunk~fantasy-humans
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I started 'Phase 3' of the North African terrain project, the market. I built some tables this morning, and after staining I'll add a variety of goods, foodstuffs, and trinkets. I'm trying to decide if I want a bazaar building (or two) with stalls integrated.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CndwsP6L044/VSg_U46cn1I/AAAAAAAAARw/OoeEa3Y9p_c/s1600/Tables.jpg)
The Eureka market sets are all painted and showed up in previous LPLs. I also have (still to be done) a Eureka contemporary African set, much of which will work for this setting. Hirst molds provided a bunch of small items like bowls, bottles, and assorted bric a brac.
I also finished out my mud brick buildings.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zF9Qu02BQAE/VSXkiYkj3WI/AAAAAAAAARE/ESoJH98yBhU/s1600/MudBrick1.jpg)
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Coming along nicely.
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This is all very excellent! :-*
Some how missed the earlier updates for this.
Those merlons are exactly what I need to finish some walls of my own - I'm assuming they were part of the German kits?.
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Those merlons are exactly what I need to finish some walls of my own - I'm assuming they were part of the German kits?.
Yes, they did. Each building had a set. Modelbau might sell them separate if you inquire.
It might be more cost effective for you to find someone in you part of the world to laser cut some out of mdf, or resort to gator foam or Sintra and a jeweler's saw, although that would take some time.
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Coming along nicely.
And some!
:-* :-*
Looking forward to seeing the market stalls progress.
8)
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Those mud brick hits really capture the feel 8)
cheers
James
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Love the detail on the stalls build :-* :-* :-*
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Finally got around to taking pics of the finished stalls, since I used them in my LPL Round 9 entry.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GuCNIjFUzpc/VXyn_cXwNUI/AAAAAAAAAXY/pGt0b7rIB54/s1600/Stalls2.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2KymtpSGa7o/VXykrBSVudI/AAAAAAAAAXI/J7F2J0BdMfA/s1600/Stalls4.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--swhqLAAOAI/VXykqjKiKCI/AAAAAAAAAXE/P6MHiVycmo8/s1600/Stalls3.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cM_OcOJmnG4/VXykqCDSSRI/AAAAAAAAAW8/ZL6odKJR3Qg/s1600/Stalls.jpg)
I also purchased a few things from Ironheart Artisans- some market carts and tables, balconies, and some gazebo/screens. They look like they'll fit perfectly with the Modelbau balconies. I haven't attached them yet.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_GvLRJP-_LM/VXyko60rsyI/AAAAAAAAAWk/PvU-UIJhl0U/s1600/Carts.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vJ4_PnYx2IA/VXykp2VfcWI/AAAAAAAAAW0/uo3tSxjnYa0/s1600/Balconies.jpg)
Some notes on items used are on my blog. More pictures after the LPL round closes...
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Looking forward to more info as there is some wonderful stuff on display here.
Very inspiring.
:-* :-*
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A great collection of 'bits' 8) 8)
cheers
James
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Indeed, very inspiring thread. :-* :-*
Keep it coming.
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All these little details look amazing! :-* :-* :-*
I love the spice drawers and the bread in particular.
Have wanted some of those balconies for some time, but I can't find them as a separate item on the Ironheart Artisans site. Did you buy them as part of a kit Dr Mathias?
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WOW :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
Loving the detail on these especially the book stall where are the books from?
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Thank you guys, I had fun making them. Now I want to do near future as well as 40K versions ;)
Have wanted some of those balconies for some time, but I can't find them as a separate item on the Ironheart Artisans site. Did you buy them as part of a kit Dr Mathias?
I emailed Ironheart and asked if they could be bought separately. Apparently its something they've been planning to do, but they haven't done it. The person I was in communication with was very helpful, and they cut the balconies quick. $10 for four of them, which is pretty damn good IMO.
Loving the detail on these especially the book stall where are the books from?
Hirst Arts mold #59, cast with dental plaster.
(http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/59.jpg)
Not my pic, it's from the Hirst site:
(http://www.hirstarts.com/tips29/inn050.jpg)
http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/moldsvill.html
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Fantastic project, Matt, very creative and very inspiring!
I think I will need that Hirst Arts mould, lots of usefull stuff there.
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Superb.
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Fantastic project, Matt, very creative and very inspiring!
I think I will need that Hirst Arts mould, lots of usefull stuff there.
I have to heartily agree.
On both points.
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Thanks all, I'm very glad that this 'It's Alive!' thread happened :)
Some more pics I can post now that LPL round 9 is over:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rBtSd4QOscs/VX9yJ-80MdI/AAAAAAAAAYA/k7RpR3v4I9Y/s1600/PhantomAce.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2W0k1JoKBCE/VX9yGub67eI/AAAAAAAAAX0/C9f8XVJO8mk/s1600/Cobra2.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wYYsDFDaF0E/VX9yJit1d8I/AAAAAAAAAX8/pdTAiII17Aw/s1600/Cobra3.jpg)
A few mashrabiya screens from Ironheart Artisans. I feel like these are a really nice addition to the buildings, although I'm not crazy about the trapdoors for roof access :)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2n8J4yU2K2U/VX9yKhGbbZI/AAAAAAAAAYM/IzIETq5Zd_0/s1600/Screen2.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rRFnm2LvmEo/VX9yKAirqTI/AAAAAAAAAYE/wE7cdYGUiTM/s1600/Screen.jpg)
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Lovely.
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Take me to your... er..... gazebo!
Beautiful work all round.
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great stuff :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
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Wonderful Matt.
A truly pulp-tastic setting :-*
Where's Indy?
;)
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Where's Indy?
;)
Perhaps the next LPL ;)
Now that you've mentioned it though, it is a bit odd that I don't have an Indiana Jones figure in my hoard...
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Completely brilliant! :-* Whoever had the idea for the It's Alive comp is a pukka genius 8)
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More, More :o :o Just fantastic :-* :-* :-* :-*
LB
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Thanks for all the additional photo's! Great work.
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Brilliant!! :-*
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Is it too late to join in the fun?
Darrell.
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Is it too late to join in the fun?
I hope not :D
WOW Stunning job Dr Mathias :-*
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Very impressive and inspiring modeling and painting, Matt, just lovely!
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(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/4060_09_04_17_11_24_15_0.jpg)
Time for a little thread necromancy.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/4060_22_03_17_2_47_04_0.jpg)
Instead of knocking out LPL entries I spent my spring break week working on the "Exotic Locations" sets I acquired from Sally 4th's Indiegogo campaign. I didn't have any gameable interiors for the North African setting so I decided to try the modular MDF route. Overall, the sections went together well and I think I can squeeze this stuff into sci-fi too. The exteriors are textured with the same "Phipps Method" I used on the other buildings in the thread.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/4060_09_04_17_11_24_15_2.jpg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/28/4060_09_04_17_11_24_15_1.jpg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/27/4060_22_03_17_2_51_28.jpg)
I picked up all the set dressings (two of the museum) as well as some props, and they are taking quite a while to get finished. I almost have the full museum set done and hope to be posting some better pics shortly. With the addition of the souk tables and stands I think my market will double in size...
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As many have said before, 'Fantastic stuff' I am very envious. I too have been tempted by the set dressings from Sally Forth, maybe I will weaken & purchase soon.
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Cool stuff.
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Well thought out and well realized project! Very well done!
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this is definitely some "rockin' the casbah" terrain.
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Dr. Mathias
This is extraordinary work. Stunning. I just can’t get over how rich it looks, from all angles, just by adding those little details. I am in awe.
Dan