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Other Stuff => Workbench => Tutorials => Topic started by: tin shed gamer on October 09, 2014, 05:52:46 PM
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Its time to put my money where my mouth is.In another topic that it's possible to build a Tri engined plane,from scratch for nothng.
The material I'll be using will be things typically found in the house,or most gamers have in stock.
1.Breakfast Cereal packet card.(as this card is less likely to have grease on it).
2.Cocktail sticks.
3.Glue,Super glue,PVA,UhU.(not all are required just the one you prefer to use.)
4.Sharp knife(new blades a must it stops dragging and ripping on the surface of the card)
5.Ruler,pen,pencil,and a small coin(size will explained later).
And thats it!
I'm not including paints in the list as most of us have paints in anyway.
I'm not going start with measurement's or how too.I'll just start with a picture of the first stage(just to prove I'm actually making it,there's not much too see just yet )
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;)It would also help if I posted the line drawings I'm working from,I'll cover construction methods,as I find the shortest,and simplist,or when asked.
These were kindly provided by FramFarmson.
:-*
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Looking good!!! :D
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Very interesting. Waiting for more.
Snitchy sends.
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A great start! This is going places already - can't wait to see the write up.
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I' ve chosen to do the wing in three sections that can be glued together or drilled and pinned (if you were making the plane in plastic)so you could store the plane without the wings.The central section is roughly 10cm x 8cm and 1'5cm thick. This section glue directly onto the body.and all engine mounts have been moved over to this section,so the outer wing sections can be removable if you choose them to be.
The ribbing on the body is made from the part of the box that gets over looked by most modelers.When you flatten/open out the box there are ridges along the fold lines of the box.These normally get cut off and thrown away when we try to get the most flat card from the box as possible.
Instead make the first thing you do is to,use a sharp blade and cut these ridges away from the flat card.You should with a little care get more than enough ridged card from one box to detail the whole body.
There is method to my madness,all the pen marks relate to part's or to the paint scheme,As I've no intention of undercoating a paper model(which can some times react badly with the card leaving a fluffy effect)It also means I can plan curved detailing and numbering on a texture/detailed surface before I used paint,and have difficulty finding the shapes with a wet brush,I only need to stay in the lines.
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Its also good for tank tracks,Ridge tiles ,hand rails,detailing Ship hull's.Tin baths.Water towers.To name but a few things I've knocked up with it.
The method I'm using mean theres far less classic modeling of pre made parts,as most of the skill's and methods used by model makers seem to be nothing but strange rituals for killing time.
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I made the slope of the cockpit hood too shallow,so I've ended up with larger windows than I planned on.
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Looking grand!
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Its getting there are only a few more ribs and hatches,plus a couple of PVA rivet heads,before I need to paint the windows and side pannels as the engine pods will make it difficult to paint behind them.
Only issue is the engine mounts as the props on the line drawing hide the detail I'm not sure on,The only photographs I've seen have the same problem or are in shade.
I'll work on the engine mounts being eigth of them,four on each side of the engine plus the body to engine mount,Should make for a stronger mount.
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Loving the look of this so far, can't wait to see it finished!
Using the folds from a light cardboard box as the corrugations on the plane is inspired, I'd probably have tried messing around with styrene half-rounds or something but why not use the cardboard you'd otherwise throw away?
I've considered making a plane of some sort for pulp use, as there are so few multi-passenger planes in roughly 28mm scale that are solid enough for tabletop use. I might have a new project for this winter now, inspired by yours!
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This is a fantastic and inspirational thread. I look forward to seeing more.
If you still think the cockpit windows are too big, try painting the glass area a little smaller than the frame. This will sort out some of the variation and given that you will be painting the windows 'glass colour' it will not show up as much.
Keep up the GREAT work.
Tony
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Thank you I've a few more simple Idea's for wheel's,the engine's,and prop's.All will be made using only the packet card,and a few small sections of cocktail stick.
The methods I'm using are being proof tested in a round about way.
I originally stated before I started this model that you should be able to build this plane in sixteen to twenty hours.So I've had to think outside the box so to speak.
So far I've taken eight and half hours,including planning.I still think its possible to complete it twenty hours.So you could start on a Sunday night and be done well before the next weekends gaming.
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This is a fantastic and inspirational thread. I look forward to seeing more.
If you still think the cockpit windows are too big, try painting the glass area a little smaller than the frame. This will sort out some of the variation and given that you will be painting the windows 'glass colour' it will not show up as much.
Keep up the GREAT work.
Tony
Its' easy to "Upgrade" this model too - using some thin plastic from a blister pack or card toploader sleeve to add proper window material, for example.
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Very nice, the time and cost factor are particularly impressive.
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Slow down there Fram,I was going to cover how to pimp the thing after I've shown off a bit more lol.
Joking aside,I did considor doing this,but would push it beyond the brief of card and cocktail sticks,and twenty hours.
Because you found those clear cabin pictures.You could do the whole inside with same material's,and paint it.In further six to ten hours depending on how much detailing and highlighting you do.Its a length of string,moment on a scratch build.So I've not gone down that road,but I'll cover how to if you want after I've finished the plane.
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I think ultimately you can go into as much detail as you'd like. For me, the main difficulty I'd have is shaping the wings, so any advice or closer instructions you have there would be very appreciated. I don't know what other people might be hoping to see more of.
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Looking great so far.
How are you going to do the radial engines?
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Ah,thats actually easier than you think.you'll kick yourself.
It can be achived with one curve topped rib and a single peice of card to skin the wing.
You just need to see the wing as a triangle,with one point rounded off.
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The engine cowellings have been squared off so in profile they look the same,but in plan there rectangular.
There's a couple of reasons for this.The shape makes it easier to build.it makes it simpler to mount to the wing,and to attatch the wheel structures too.As the whole thing is hidden under the wing,the rectangle is also hidden,or face down above the wheels mud guards.As for the rest I'm cutting down the number of "heads" down to six per engine.
The heads will be made from double thickness card layers in reducing sizes.
The rest of the detailing I'll keep under my hat until I've finished them as this is the biggest time killer in the whole project.
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This is an excellent project, but could I plead for a tutorial as I am not sure that I can emulate your fantastic work simply by looking at the pictures.
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I hadn't planned on doing one.It was only ever ment to be me proving it could be done,by showing it being constructed rather than just finished and painted with the odd bit of Q and A.
I'll run through how to make one if your keen. I just need to know if you want the measurements I used or just the methods and basic shapes?
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Tis a thing of beauty.
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We certainly need the process expanded (for example fabricating the wing and radial engines, mounts and wheels) and a full process would be very nice!!! If you don't mind of course. While some sizes would be helpful - we all have access to a calculator and the schematic - so that isn't the big issue.
Thanks!!!!!
Matt
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okay Matt,
I'll post how to construct the wings tomorrow.But for now I'll just simply start with the wheels.
They're very simple to construct.Each wheel requires eight card disks.Its sounds alot but it should give you a wheel roughly 5mm thick.
you can use two coins as stencils a 1p for the tyres and a 5p for the hub caps.
in total you'll need 12 disc's from the 1p,and 4 disc's from the 5p.
You can speed up the proccess by drawing and cutting out only six,1p disc's and gluing them onto card,then cut around the edges to end up with six double thickness disc's,then glue three of these together,and you have a basic tyre.You'll have slight difference in disc sizes which will give you a tread effect.Then sand the outer disc on both sides to for a curve on the rim( you can sand card if you only sand at 90°ish to the edges layers and from the upper edge at an angle down to the glued edge.) the tyre then needs a 5p disc on either side .Pick one side to detail,in the centre of the disk glue a short peice of cocktail stick.around the base of the cocktail stick place mulitipul dots of neat PVA using the point of a cocktail stick.these raised dots dry to form rivits/wheel nuts ,and show up very well when you paint the wheel.
If you feel you've got the time or you think it needs it then a layer of PVA over the tread will give a smoother feel too the wheels.As you can see it doesn't take very long at all to make the wheels .
Mark
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Thanks Mark! Very straight forward - to someone who knows the material properties very well. Thanks for sharing your practice and insight. I'm eager for the next instalment.
I totally want to build one of these. 8)
Cheers
Matt
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I might as well,give a quick guide for building the body,As I'm literally sat watching paint dry.(I always run out of steam when I'm painting for myself).
Start with a rectangle the length you want the plane to be(I made it 24cm).by the max hight of the body (underside of the wing is the top of the body)copy the shape of the body from the side view plan,don't bother fiddling with adjusting measurements for curving sides its just not needed for a gaming model(its to gather dust and look pritty on your table not to fly).
mark and cut out all the windows including the door window,Then cut out the door shape(keep this to one side) before you cut out the body shape.The use the shape as a template and mark around it with a knife no a pen(keep both pannels the same size)mark and cut out the windows before you cut out the pannel.
Its worth knowing that you must always have the printed side of the card on the inside of any part you make.The printed side has a coating which is wax based and makes it difficult to paint.It also is raise so lettering will often leave raised areas in your paint work.A wonderful blended flat surface could still say "corn flakes" when the light hits it .
Then glue each pannel to a peice if card and cut around,you'll have both sides of the body with window pannels.Now go back to the door shape you saved and trim a very small amount off all the way around the door.Glue it back into the whole you cut it out from in the side pannel leaving an even gap all the way around.
Make three double thickness spacers the hight and with of the plane one for the hight of the body where the body top is level and starts to slope down(near the door),one for halfway towards the tail.
The third to be at the front behind the engine this requires a semi circular top.Also you need a double strip 5mm wide and the hight of narrowest point of the tail end.
glue the spacer behind the door in first,and attatch to both sides so you have a "H"shape.Then glue the the 5mm strip to the inside of the tail end so that the end view is now 3 layer of card thick.Now glue the other side to it to form an"A"shape.
glue the egine end spacer in place.
No take a rectangle of card and cover the top slope from the 'door'spacer down to the tail.When dry trim it back til level with the side pannels,
Now do the same to the small slope under the engine end.Once dry then take a longer peice to run from the small slope pannel the length of the underside to the tail.
Now the curved engine.Do not just cut a peice of card it won't work.Card has one direction its happy to flex in.Use that flex direction as the spine of the curved section and cut to shape around it.Make a couple of dry runs before you glue and cut into place.
Thats the basic body.detail as you feel works for the model.
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I'm very impressed. It's given me something to think about. I always tend to turn my nose up at card as a material.
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Ah! Double thickness :o thats how you did the side/door. Very smart. Thanks for taking the time to answer. :D
I have a question Mark about warping/bending when gluing and when painting. I hope you cover these in a later instalment. I dont thinks there is anythingw orse than working on a model for 30+ hours then it all going pear shaped when you poke a paintbrush near it. >:(
Cheers
Matt
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Starting to paint and construct the wings.
If your painting directly from the pot for the base colours will reduce the chance of warping.That said I've never had problems with warping as I tend to use a hair dryer to speed up drying times.
As long as you don't go mad with repeated washes then it shouldn't be an issue.
A good sign that the model needs extra time to dry is,The paint is dry to the touch but it feels colder than your room temp.
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This!
8)
Time to crack out the Wheat Bix, and say goodbye to porridge I think.
Cheers
matt
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As you can see in the pictures the wing is constructed in three sections.Basically two tri angles,and a rectangle.
You'll need six wing profile stiffeners .Four,for the rectangle,and one each for the triangles.Make a template of the shape of the wing profile draw round and cut out six,make them double thickness the same way as the wheels.
find the direction of bend in the card and have this run at 90° to the length of a rectangle of card which is the width of the middle section of the wing.The rectangle will need to be long enough to curve around the wing profile plus a bit more.
Its a good idea to mark out the position of the engine mounts on what will be the underside of the wing ,before construction.
Take four spacers and place them evenly over the width of the card/wing width.ensuring the spacers touch the back edge.Then curve the card over the backs of the spacers to form the top of the wing,and trim to size.
To make the 'triangle' wing tips,Draw a template which has a base edge the length of the entire spacer.You should have a template with a rounded end which looks the same as the wing tip in plan in the drawings.
Find the curve in the card and have it run at 90° to the longest edge.The lead edge of the template/wing should be placed along the 90° line across the card.you should end up with a rectangle of card with the triangle along the long edge.
Now draw round the template again cut it straight down the middle but not to the end leave the full semi circle on the end and the back edge so you end up with a sort of "L" shape.
Now go back to the shape with the rectangle on the side on the back edge cut a flap shape out and put it to one side.Now on the inside glue the L shape to cover over the flap cut out,but not to fill it .
Add the strut to the wing joint end.Then bend the rectangle over the strut and glue to the entire wing section.When dry cut to shape.
Now glue the cut out right hand flap on top of the left hand wing,and visa versa..
Detail as you want.
I think I'll have to add a couple of pictures for the wing tip construction as it sounds complicated but its not.
Mark
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Sorry chaps once again I'm one fingered typing whilst everyones posting lol.I've used two cereal boxes to make the whole thing.Its going to be a bit more as I made the wheels and wheel struts,and put them safe.While I did some paid work.Unfortunately a little too safe.
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Nice one, this is really coming together.
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Sorry chaps once again I'm one fingered typing whilst everyones posting lol.
It's because we are eager for any scrap of text or image, so when it appears we pounce upon it. ;)
I assume you clamp everything together and glue in stages - is there a particular way to glue the spacers securely? It sounds a little flimsy, and you cannot really use pins or weights at those angles.
Cheers
matt
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The model is looking great and I particularly like seeing the work-in-progress shots.
Thank you for taking the trouble to post work-in-progress shots and explanations of the techniques you have used.
I look forward to seeing more.
Tony
PS.
Have you thought of including details of the model on The Aircraft Resource Centre?
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/
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Why ,do you need it to be complicated Matt? lol
I've added a picture of the shape's that make the wing tip's.The arrow's show the direction of the fold/curve.
I used super glue for the whole thing.but you must pre curve the card.As for being flimsy.Its all triangles so its stronger than you think.As the rear edge is three layers thick without looking like it.
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Thank you Tony,I hadn't thought of posting it any where else.I wouldn't have thought it was their cup of tea.
Its been an organic project,It started life as a comment to another member on a different topic,The wing tip is a good example of just how fluid its been,as the method I've posted is a refinement of the method I actually used as its faster (I did try it out before I posted)
I'm treating the plane as a posh hill,as its to be used as an objective marker.So I doubt that scale modellers will see it as nothing more than a crude pretend plane lol.
When the planes finished,I'm toying with idea of making some small airfield buildings to complete the set.
Mark.
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I disagree, and would feel confident that ARC would see this as a very valid modelling article showing different skills and materials from the usual plastic kit with resin add-ons.
I will leave it up to you, but just because the forum is mainly resin or plastic kits, does not mean that there are many who would not want to see a model made from cereal card and cocktail sticks. I would!
My father who was a very keen modeller believed that no 'real model' could be made from anything other than Balsawood and Tissue paper. I often wonder what he would have made of some of my constructions.
I continue to follow this thread with interest and you are tempting me to do something similar.
Tony
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Your Dad sounds like a man after my own heart.Theres some thing about making some thing from nothing,and doing with your own hands.
I'll take on board your comments about posting on ARC.
What I was trying to say is I'm a man of champange tastes and shandy money.So daft as it sounds I've never viewed what I make as modelling,as I make them because I can't afford the propper model kit.(serves me right for having so many kids I should have bought a bigger telly lol).
Ego aside I'd really enjoy seening some one else having a crack at it.
Mark
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I somewhat think the same, :D why spend lots of money when simple materials and a bit of fun gives you something unique? So far my answer is time/detail - but if I can nail detail down, that just leaves time and that may be worth it.
I know looking at my collection so far, I value the pieces more which I have customised excessively or scratch built. My little mdf shops and dust walkers are less inspiring.
Thanks for your efforts Mark, that picture of the wing is worth 1000 words. ;) and thanks for the superglue tip ;)
Cheers
matt
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If your going to use super glue the do the pre curving then attatch the double thickness wing spacer,and then the L shape as you'll have to trim the thickness of the double thick spacer off the square end.I think I forgot to mention that bit.also on the semi circular end of spacer add the super glue half way round from the bottom up.Then glue the curving front card to it.Don't put glue on the curving card instead of the spacer(If the glue extends past the point you can grip,it wil dry leaving the card stiff and un usable).All super glue goes on the flat card lower wing and the spacer.This is applies to super glue ,its not so important for other glues.
Really practice your dry runs as you only get one or two at the most chances to re position the card.Super glue has a little longer work time when its gluing the printed side of card,non the less it can be a pig.the waxed surface can allow the glue to run! so watch your fingers.
I've just finished painting the wing and added the under cariage(but not the wheels I still can't find them,so I give in I'll make some more lol)
I'll come clean I've had to go back and repaint the body too.Because some one was feeling quite smug because he was ahead of target.So the universe added dirty great yellow finger prints down the side.It couldn't been me as I'm a professional ;).
I am nolonger ahead.So I'll add pictures tomorrow as I'm out of time to night.
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Now we're getting some where.
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Definitely.
I guess the whole thing is very light. Are the vertical members doing all the supporting in the undercarriage, or are the cocktail sticks doing something too?
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Every part is supporting the other.I hoped by leaving the engines open,would show how little structural wieght each cocktail sticks is carrying.As they're not touching anything much.
I've taken a little more than was needed off the bottom of the wheels,as it didn't show up in the photographs.The point of the flat section is just to sit a little better on a table.
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Absolutely cracking thread and I can believe I've missed it till now.
If you don't mind I'll move this to the How To thread so it doesn't get lost in the mists of time :)
cheers
James
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If you want to,I can't think of a reason to object.If you feel thats where it should be.
Mark
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Brilliant just brilliant!
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Very impressive build.
Snitchy sends.
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Engines added ,just the prop's and tail to go.
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Thank you, but its all done with mirrors.
The engines are ,thin strips for detail.double thickness card stacked in reducing layers and a tube in the middle which was formed around a pen.
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This is one brilliant project :) I have been lurking a bit watching this one and have to admit I am very impressed with the simple but effective materials used on this. Very well done indeed :)
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Well you've been in my workshop.There are odd bits every where! lol
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That there is, a proper aladins cave lol
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Looking good! I think you should do a flying boat next.
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Great minds :D.The Fokker was a sea plane as well.But I'm thinking Cutters Goose.
I'm just about to start a SnowKat ,as its been bouncing round in my bonce all day.Sticking with the Pulp themed models.Through November.Also begining to see my way too,making a train in the new year.Its not so much how to make one,as where to put it.
The Fokker will be finished later this week.
The for the fun of it I'll do the Snow Kat.If anyones interested if not.I'll knock one up and few buildings to do a Pulp Air field.Because I've a Plane Know and no use for it.(Had to put a base on it so I could store it on the back wall of cupboard).
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There's a nice 1/70 paper model of a snow cat floating on the web :
(http://www.papercraftsquare.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Tucker-Sno-Cats-in-Antarctic-Exploration.jpg)
You can find it here : http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=2679 (http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=2679)
In case you needed some plans :)
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Who would have that that an essentially paper plane could look so good fantastic work. I have done some paper models in the past - but always been afraid to attempt something like an aircraft - largely because of all the curves. However the wings in particular on this Fokker are inspirational.
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Thank you,I've taken a quick look,I was planning on something a little more Heath Robinson.(or1920's/30's ish)Theres a small picture marked Snow track St4,In the corner of that page.I was thinking of something with that cab,a stub nosed bonnet and grill.With a flat bed behind the cabin,I think that space might be more gamer friendly than s full length closed body of the one you kindly posted a link too.But if your intent on building that one,I can talk you through pimping it up with added detail/ texture for 28mm gaming.
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Thank's Its Stronger than you'ld think too,my three year olds been playing with it,and the card board ships I made earlier this year.For most of the afternoon.
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Ah kids. At least he's playing with a finished product an not the box. Bought my nephew a little tykes police car for Xmas last year and he was only interested with playing with the box. I know what to get him this year. It still grates on my even after 10 months have past.
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The engines look great, I've been wondering about doing rotary engines like that for a couple of different pulp projects lurking in the back of my head and just building the cylinders up from card bits has turned out very, very nice indeed.
Can't wait to see it finished, are you doing the props by hand, borrowing from a kit, or just doing discs for spinning props?
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The props are done with cereal packet card and a cocktail stick.There actually very simple to do just haven't found the right angle to glue them at on the plane.its the old function vs form (pritty vs Am I going to be gluing them back on every time I move it.If I put them like this.)
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I can't believe that Fokker is scratch built - nice work!
Now do a steam traction engine - how you seen how much the Corgi ones go for on ebay?
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Thats not a bad idea.
It'd be a peice of cake,There's nothing to them really a couple of tubes and box shapes a few wheels job done.(Now I sound big headed!)If no one objects I'll do one before I do the Snow Kat.
I'm pritty sure it will simpler than the plane.So I'll up the stakes.
How about something to pull?
How about a 60pndr or a Howitzer?Or a thresher (I think I'd need some pic's though).
Same limited material's?
No time limit as I've no idea untill I've started just how fast it'll be.
I'm not getting carried away lolJust think it'll be fun easier to store and something I'll use.(Alright might be a bit OTT just sounds like fun project)
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A big gun would be great :D
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Then a BFG it is .
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And done.
The last picture is just to show why I've based the plane,so I can store the thing without tripping over it
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In total its taken 19 hours 36 minutes,this includes the repaint and new wheels.To answer an earlier question.The plane including base is 6oz.Thats roughly 140 grams.
In morning I'll be having toast.
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Outstanding build.
Snitchy sends.
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The finished model looks fantastic - very well done.
I have even started to search around for a suitable plane for me to build.
Tony
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That plane is a real beauty - bravo!
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That is some amazing scratch building! Bravo! :-*
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That's very spiffy. Nicely done! Well you have proved it's possible, I guess that has laid down the gauntlet for a few of us lol lol lol lol.
Thanks for taking the time!
Matt
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Amazing work - many thanks from all of us!
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I'm glad you like it.
I'll start a new 'Tale from the Tin Shed'.Some time this weekend.The subject has already been Chosen.All I need to Know is Would you prefer me to Do the Traction engine,or the Howitzer first?If people prefer I could do them as two topics rather than one .As they both use the same construction methods.
Mark.
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10/10.
To answer you question - all in the same thread. I think the traction engine first (though it really doesn't matter).
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That sounds fair.Traction engine first.
Tony how about a Ju52 ? I think it was Matt who wanted to do one.The only real difference would be the cowelling around the engines.A quick solution would be to make a shallow tube then wrap card round the outside until its thick enough for you.Then sand the rounded open end in.
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Couldn't help but notice was that a Sopwith Camel in the book case looking pic? If so did you also construct it out of a cereal box? If so you must be eating a fair amount of cereal lol
Fokker looks great.
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More photos of the Sopwith here:
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=60175.msg779508#msg779508
As stated in this thread, it was an exercise in minimum number of pieces possible.
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Actually the first Sopwith was made of card.Just to prove it was possible to reduce the number of parts.Its now part of scenery peice of a crashed plane in a shell hole.
You can make pritty much any Bi plane/tri plane of the war using this method.Infact pritty much any thing from this period can be done in cereal packet.(At some point I'll have figured out how to or used card to construct a concept model.I write all my concepts down .You wouldn't belive how many times those books have tried to grow legs)
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Excellent tutorial. Your skills with just a few basic mediums is amazing. The plane looks like it was from a scale model kit. Well done.
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I'm glad you liked it. I've just spent the evening doing the Math(for want of a better word)on the Traction engine.It will be a much Simpler build than I thought .It can be done in one or two evenings.Depending on how much detail you put into the paint work.
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This is marvellously inspirational!
I wonder what I could do with XPS foam? Hmmm.....
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Definitely you can make planes using foam.
I've made a fair few planes from cereal packets since this tutorial lol
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When (if?) we get back to playing Pulp Alley and when (if?) I have time I would use this tutorial to make a Gruman Goose:
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fd/JRF-5_NAS_Jax_1942.jpg/750px-JRF-5_NAS_Jax_1942.jpg)
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I've agreed to make a Dragon Rapide ( or it's sister plane) next as it's a lot easier than it looks at first glance.
I could do a Sea plane. But to be perfectly honest as your state side. It would be far simpler to go down the Ertl diecast money box route.
I've two different Ertl versions of their Grumman Goose. The one in the 'Cutter's Goose' livery .was originally the Ertl Shell petroleum version in a red and yellow livery. Plus side coin slot is hidden under a flip up cockpit canopy. Downside quite low detail .
The Red livery is the Ertl, 'Wings of Texaco ' Goose. Plus side Good level of detail, Down side the coin slot is in the fuselage.
The third is my water lined Smér 1/48 Walrus. Plus side easy to get very chunky model. Down side very old style of plastic detail and moulding issues. If you treat Smér kits as a white metal kit you'll love them .If your expecting scale modeling quality then you'll hate them. The real plus is their chunky build. It's got a much better survival rate on a table than the Airfix version ( in fact in the UK you can get 3 Smér Walrus models for the price of one Airfix Walrus.)
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Thanks TSG; that looks like a great option.
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Fantastic collection!