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Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: matakishi on February 26, 2017, 03:20:37 PM
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I bought myself a 3D printer at Christmas and since then I've printed loads of things for various games. I've finally managed to get time (and glasses) to paint them so I thought I'd share.
There are full details on my site about where the files came from and the settings I used if you're interested in that sort of thing:
http://www.matakishi.net/3d-printing.html
First up cave lurkers. Designed for 15mm games these are great for 28mm with no re-sizing necessary. they work out at under 24p each.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/trolls-005_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/trolls-003_orig.jpg)
28mm Alternative Armies miniature for scale
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/trolls-001_orig.jpg)
Stone Apes of Knuum. Living stone guardians for my current FRPG campaign. I drybrushed these to bring out the layers because theyre stone.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/stone-apes-001_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/stone-apes-002_orig.jpg)
Treasure chests
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/chests-001_orig.jpg)
Loads more to come including the big stuff as soon as I get round to painting it.
http://www.matakishi.net/3d-printing.html
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Very nice!
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Thanks for sharing Paul.
The printer grain definitely seems suited towards items that might have a grain or strata, but what do you think of its utility for smoother forms - is it easy to sand them smooth?
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Sanding is difficult. The PLA is very resilient and slightly flexible and doesn't take sanding well. If you print with ABS you can use acetone vapour to melt the surface slightly and smooth it out without losing detail but to do this with PLA you need to use chloroform. (so I'm not doing that).
I'm currently preparing some 'wooden' items for painting- boats, barrels and a gallows set for my pirate game and they look fantastic, the layers are not a problem at all because of the wood grain.
As with other media it's suited to some things and not to others. The way I look at it is: I have metal miniatures with mold lines, resin miniatures with bubbles, plastic miniatures with bendy weapons and all the scenery I make has visible joins and seams and none of this matters during a game, nobody notices (and if they do they don't care) so a few 1 micron lines on a printed piece isn't going to bother me if the piece itself is good.
Also, it's just so much fun printing them :)
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Very cool. That first print there is on my list of ones to do but my printer doesn't seem to like it. File too big I imagine. They've come out really nice.
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I find it harder and harder to restrain myself from digging into my savings to buy a printer. ;D
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I find it harder and harder to restrain myself from digging into my savings to buy a printer. ;D
Me too! .........and this doesn't help: ;) lol
Also, it's just so much fun printing them
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Very nice work all round.
The printer grain definitely seems suited towards items that might have a grain or strata, but what do you think of its utility for smoother forms - is it easy to sand them smooth?
I find with the lines some very fine grain sandpaper and files will do a good job of it. My printer on the very finest setting leaves little to no evidence of it as well.
One thing that I found on a 3D printing forum is to spray multiple layers of gloss coat sealer to backfill some of the layers followed by a lite sanding then a primer. I did that on two 3D printed dinos from shapeways and it cleared about 80% of the lines. I am sure that if I had more patience then I would have had better results.
Again Matakishi, lovely work.
Snitchy sends.
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I must admit I'm not too bothered by the lines, the whole process is too much like magic to allow me to complain about the details :)
Here's my gallows for my pirate game. Try buying that in resin for £1.36.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/gallows-010_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/gallows-001_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/gallows-002_orig.jpg)
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The printer cost £299.00
Worth every penny.
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...have you had a go at making your own designs Mat?
I have the same question ;)
Very nice work BTW! 8)
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have you had a go at making your own designs Mat?
Yes.
They're shit at the moment but I'm improving as I learn.
Soon, soon...
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Those stone apes are great! As is the paint job :-* :-*
Lon
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very nice things you printed there!
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what program are you working with and always happy to help.
I'm using 123Design because I can use it on my iPad during the day.
I made some flagstones for a project I'm working on and I got the shapes and the cracks ok but got hung up on adding a surface texture.
I've got Blender in my desktop but havent looked at it yet.
It's really early days. When I have something I want to print and cant find an existing file I'll give it more time and though. For the moment I'm happy producing existing stuff.
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This looks great and definitely a sign of future things...
It would be great if somebody could 'share' their journey -
eg what to look for in a printer, how it connects to the computer, where you can find free files, drawing new designs etc...
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The printer cost £299.00
Worth every penny.
It's almost bonus time (hopefully, fingers crossed) at work. I've been considering whether to add it to the pension pot (no tax :D) or buy something. Finding that 3d printers are getting more affordable is not helping that decision o_o
I got some stuff printed by Shapeways. While nice, they were also very expensive. I dread to think what that gallows would cost from them, but it would be a tad more than £1.36.
I applied a few coats of varnish to the Shapeways pieces (it was their cheapest WSF material), which did help. However, even after the varnish and two primer coats it still soaked in the paint :-[
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This looks great and definitely a sign of future things...
It would be great if somebody could 'share' their journey -
eg what to look for in a printer, how it connects to the computer, where you can find free files, drawing new designs etc...
I'll be adding more of those details to the 3D Printing page on my site but I'm happy to repeat them here.
Jennifer has an excellent thread on the DM's Craft boards about the printer I have
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/3759/monoprice-maker-select-wanhao-duplicator
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I applied a few coats of varnish to the Shapeways pieces (it was their cheapest WSF material), which did help. However, even after the varnish and two primer coats it still soaked in the paint :-[
The PLA I use doesn't soak paint, it's like painting a plastic kit.
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I'll be adding more of those details to the 3D Printing page on my site but I'm happy to repeat them here.
Jennifer has an excellent thread on the DM's Craft boards about the printer I have
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/3759/monoprice-maker-select-wanhao-duplicator
I shall watch avidly - thank you Paul
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I've written a short article on my progress so far.
http://www.matakishi.net/3d-printing-odyssey.html
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/3d-odyssey-1_3_orig.jpg)
It explains some basics. If you'd like to know anything more please ask and I'll include it.
I bought a bigger printer today which will arrive on Monday. My current one needs a fault fixing which is proving more stubborn than I anticipated. With a new printer I can happily work on the Wanhao without the stress of not being able to print. Once I've fixed it I'll probably sell it on as, although I'd like to own two, I don't really have the room.
If you'd like a cheap 3D printer then watch this space (or get in touch early and reserve one :) No guarantee I will be selling yet though).
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My adhesion problems were entirely down to the crappy filament. Once I went back and read the reviews I found I wasn't alone.
The designer said to print the gallows without support but I don't see that top railing bridging the gap so I decided better safe than sorry. I was surprised the boat came out ok (although the underneath of the seats is stringy but you can't see it without searching). Usually I don't print with any support it's just coincidence that the hings I've painted first (and so shown off fist) had them.
Bigger things I do at 10% infill.
I bought an Omega I3, a small step up from my existing printer.
https://www.technologyoutlet.co.uk/products/omega-i3-3d-printer
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I've written a short article on my progress so far.
Very useful article, thanks. I don't know anything about 3D printers but I feel I need one! ;)
I've been looking at the Dremel Idea Builder. Is there an advantage in having an enclosed printer? This printer apparently has a removable build platform for bigger items.
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Enclosed printers are better for printing in ABS as it's adversely affected by temperature changes (such as breezes).
I don't feel the need myself but I did look at a Dremmel because of the good reviews etc. In the end I went for cheap.
The machine I eventually want to get costs £2000 (give or take) so I'll probably by-pass the Dremmel.
I'll be getting a laser cutter before then anyway ;)
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Thanks for the info.
The machine I eventually want to get costs £2000 (give or take) so I'll probably by-pass the Dremmel.
I'll be getting a laser cutter before then anyway
Sounds great, I look forward to seeing more of this. 3D printer and laser cutter, every boy's dream! ;)
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Sanding is difficult. The PLA is very resilient and slightly flexible and doesn't take sanding well.
Actually not true. I've been printing with FDM printer for 3 yrs, and have learned the tricks of the trade well. Your prints are ok, but you could get much better quality (depends of your printer ). PLA is easy to sand. There are differences with the different PLA brands, so never buy too cheap. When sanding PLA you want to use wet sandpaper. Also you need to start with high grade and go down to lower untill the surface is smooth. Never let the plastic heat too much, or it will ruin the surface. When you are done sanding, try different grades of steel wool. It will completely smoothen the surface.
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That's good to know but sounds like too much work ;)
I prefer to only print things that will work well as printed items, so I avoid smooth items for instance. (The apes were an exception because the printing lines add to the stone look)
I suppose if there was something I really, really wanted and couldn't get any other way such as a particular car I might print it and sand it but it would have to be very special to warrant the work.
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Glad to see you moving in on 3d printing as well, I always admire your work so I'm curious to see what you come up with!
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I bought a Cubicon Style printer - only has a 6" cube bed but is contained, auto-levels and prints ABS perfectly with no problem adhering to/removing from bed. I wanted to print ABS so I could then put it in vulcanised moulds for small parts for vehicles, etc.
It is a lot easier to draw something, print it, adjust it, print it, etc than fiddling with tiny bits of plasticard.
The sides and bench/springs on this 54mm wagon were designed and 3-d printed:
(https://i2.wp.com/imperialminiatures.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/IM005A.jpg?resize=533%2C533)
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So, how's the Omega doing compared to the Wanhao?
I am seriously considering a purchase, but I have to be decide which one I should go for - I just read a review of the Danish Sculpto, that is can have problems with stls not included in the app that comes with it, which has cooled my interest in it.
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Well, it's early days but it's been running almost constantly since it arrived and I've got a ton of new models to paint now.
It comes with a really good build plate that PLA sticks to like glue. I found it stuck too well and stuff was actually difficult to remove so I installed a glass bed which, with a spray of 3DLAC sticks everything when it's warm and releases them when it cools (5 mins and a re levelling of the bed to fit it so done in under 15 minutes).
It prints faster than the Wanhao.
It finishes the top of prints properly unlike my Wanhao (I won't tar them all with the same brush, might just be my one that doesn't finish the tops).
It has a bed levelling sensor and much longer adjusting screws so there's more room for adjustment and the initial set up took about 10 minutes. For a newbie this would be a great help, the original adjustment on my Wanhao took a lot longer because I didn't know what tolerances I was actually looking for. It was nerve wracking.
It has a filament sensor so if you run out or have a jam it pauses the print. It will restart where it left off. The Wanhao has nothing like this.
It has a better frame with 8 bolts holding the print head perpendicular to the base. The Wanhao has 2 bolts and is notoriously difficult to keep squared. I settled for nearly square.
It has a better cooling fan that's aimed properly at the print head.
It has a colour touch screen instead of a dial controlled menu.
It doesn't have a separate control box or the awkward bloody cable that accompanies it.
I has a flashing blue LED underneath (I don't know why).
The version of CURA it comes with isn't as good as the one I have from the Wanhao but this is a personal preference, it works fine I just can't find some of the more advanced settings.
It doesn't have it's profile loaded into CURA which was surprising. I assumed it was the Wanhao with extras and that seems to be working fine.
All-in-all it cost £100 more but there are far more than a £100 worth of improvements over the Wanhao.
I plan to keep my Wanhao for a year until the warranty ends then pass it on. It's currently not working again with something disconnected on the motherboard nd it's such a pain to open it up I've left it. I'll sort it this weekend though (if I can).
Technical support for both machines from the vendor is excellent.
Here's some (by no means all) of the new stuff:
edit: not the ratmen, I bought them off eBay.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R2gpOXEFavRaANC-rXSlgjUbFszFuwVwjTkpKUQngsZvKVt_xq3EoT1oi6M0o0Nog6SJgdun_5dsB3timZ7Xld_KzkdG1qvE9RUkwPWhhDOl4-S5QisvydJjpW0nc8fGk_nyhDGGP5n_Xd73Ds5xXUbdZslMy6rh_8FFzJo_fib-W0YV2v1MWTiAB8nXxdMcJOXDSuWCC8QAakBDfMJSX59SHafPEjVxCmcs5MJeKtXLkwIWs_oWAdcwSDUgnhF2L-NqoK0uIEAGNQ8qY3gkNcwEwZY7ChFDtYGLbCTuDjadylTM8ygJVLYaBzHh95kJc2ToQzd6wIvLIwGjUFIVZ6troGz68jHW-q_yDpJcUKzPrZSsqwZKXncdXMP3xJCtVZX-49qoWvEZ7LaQRXRSquWdl08HNjwKWJ8w0iM7MBrA9fpYd7YyDJ_WMN6pqB1PX4GJHR8OCxvRUyWqz50ToTHixLFuoXHwuxCoSFDJwQSggKpI-ubu005eiJb9vOtmLb8-Z2nDMRoO-ws4yn3G9fCTb2VjfEqkF8_RzWQChPwG8szLIbFM3UGE2akdPfA_cQWMOW_SoV76ZuGk931Tg6_3WdtbhwrSN15JCWMNuKUUJgQnHOuW5Q=w1196-h897-no)
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Hmmm... sounds good to me.
It's the one with build volume of 210 x 210 x 205mm, right?
Now, if I could just find a local vendor....
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Nice introductory article. I'm fascinated by 3d printing and remember my old CDT teacher talking about it some 25 years ago like it was magic. I'm assuming if you had a 3d cad programme you could use conversion software to put it into a readable form (probably pre-slicer programme use?). The Makerbot plus units look very handy.
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Hmmm... sounds good to me.
It's the one with build volume of 210 x 210 x 205mm, right?
Now, if I could just find a local vendor....
That's the one.
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Nice introductory article. I'm fascinated by 3d printing and remember my old CDT teacher talking about it some 25 years ago like it was magic. I'm assuming if you had a 3d cad programme you could use conversion software to put it into a readable form (probably pre-slicer programme use?). The Makerbot plus units look very handy.
All the 3D programs I've tried export files in a format my slicer program can read.
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All the 3D programs I've tried export files in a format my slicer program can read.
I was thinking about AutoCAD which may need an additional stage? Those gallows you printed are great. The options are only going to get better as the technology progresses I suppose.
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I was thinking about AutoCAD which may need an additional stage? Those gallows you printed are great. The options are only going to get better as the technology progresses I suppose.
most programs should have a "save as" function at which point you can select .stl
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most programs should have a "save as" function at which point you can select .stl
Certainly AutoCAD does.
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Very cool. Paul. I could see myself getting one to print architectural details with. I am not 100% impressed by how 'organic' printouts come out.
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Some allow commercial use, some don't. Since I'm not printing to order I'm just selling off unwanted mis-prints I consider it selling 2nd hand goods and not commercial.
I'd like to see some of your files. My efforts at designing anything are paltry (and still shit).
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I've been painting some of my prints.
Here are some giant toads. They're on 50mm bases and cost 13p each to print.
(https://40876893-976789436319885468.preview.editmysite.com/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/toads-001_orig.jpg)
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They turned out rather nice. How long does something like that take to print?
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They turned out rather nice. How long does something like that take to print?
Each one takes just under two hours printing at 60mm/second. My printer will go much faster for things without bridging or fine points such as these but I don't tend to bother changing the speed, it's not my time it's using.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/screenhunter-91-mar-19-10-02_orig.jpg)
edit: Obviously I put all three on at once and just leave it to it. Just under 6 hours for the three.
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It's a lot quicker than waiting for something to be posted!
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More of my latest stuff:
Privy and kennel
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/privy-and-kennel_orig.jpg)
Gossip stones
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/gossip-stones_orig.jpg)
Clockwork door and clockwork turrets
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/clockwork-door_orig.jpg)
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Is it me, or does your new printer have a much better resolution and far less obvious striations/printing lines? :)
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It's much better.
Much, much better.
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Here's my first go with clear filament for the vortex in this portal:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fjnrKDRz27cySKhFFqx469IM6zH4SsXeFTmqDbyhnZ6aIZ6u9qDaml1o3mMcGJGTDtr0kDzsZdQ4W_GuDolHjr1_Q6_DBkBdL9baayHTNC_ieHkGJroZbAMxlgQMJ5EXrWpuE7ftn9dLhzKNUWwP8clZdKNnPvIWkM-1fQ-tsUv8FQhAWuQF4j4jsL7W8zLE6QHJDwKqmz1vtZCce618n6xr5Z0djxaZUZuk7bFVT5NZgloNKGCdN-AhKvntsl0UhWlfLN9Rqn_rHgaBe-Y3P1-nt0rTqK0BtG5oetvG8ElUVKanzNMxWvrj78dhAwtdwigcopSSI5k0XC9O8hdlMBC-vdYOBOpxWZP8YJl3XePKk5tCHa_y4XCcczO7uCmDFbTrkfiTp1Pwi4dPWpcDHUqTK4658NmsOPQ9UDDsHlok1w9tLCa4U_LIhNgHxnhT_B32_28YERUKVZxZg8jKiu--AwnJfwPylLpU52WtkhgNZ2Mu9NyvnRbP2vl_loOkMMndm1BFK7HwAWrr8dwL5I6feByTcAmh01F2MPZZHy9fByT_m5YKqijxCQ2T0Qh6lnj-wAQme5px3TlyQvVqYQEEVwqGNIa6KksgeJBjhxSoK1HaZm7mXjGaDf825CzUdKrMtBfIaFDDs79VXaVRzQrcJXp808asWl1B-coDO6E=w1200-h756-no)
and a couple of shots of this week's haul on the painting table:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ctXbzX_sfLLLE6eI3bcXIuMxNa-M8LN0ynM2EMAvS6ZVezZuk5xMHy89LdGdxKcEk7IsYSvfdErExbiuTuzpr2q3O2xy48SSA3Pz9_hdYNdw__1Ve70-OlL25DW9GshNj2Xh_20A3FV81JI_v5GlpsVJWbstjnn7OjxZyP96pDH2-hninB46Br-MS-4DCO1VyOeikvr-mKvthmsCrtPWo0t4lT_4g5IzWCC-0yzet016ZcLSIW7R-PlmY3iUAJ1axomJSXwd5ZPNxLVtMhcGA8hnMgiU8TwVKTTef2i18LR3FqFu0FNVQkRR9UPmWZ8pJ5XNYKU61VUzE0mPaG988uY5jNS4c6zFrAt-AZl5tyEIvfDJJ7uU-NFjypsw8KYmBI-69tya3tKvpSAY1pkFzH6VTDotZgr5JrThC2L4N4OLbpZ3B8tQ16so6Q1DuRk4xi6uS1lG6z31neO26eDleQhfn3fXnMqziymv7dawHQ9SOJ6P2teXBfdW-p21sO6Fp3bbbCA6vWne4ZWLSXydwfLAaZLHjrdW4g5e7p8Xknq6V1XDcz0uHTLasbS97Lif31lfCW0ZDzD3HcVIPxzz7ddL5ZYt1vd-OulDG-rcDWSBk5lMkJElg5jxCyxWulg6xuIjJhTUvrzu6YHsFqP3ETCri4Ul0TibCQdWeskk3LY=w1200-h771-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qb42tRg0NXFaHb5i4fbRY3uNcmrzFQZorSE6lqpg6OBR1jDhF6xiZ4150pQUKey9HZqmZ1PEIpnQbh6cYGu0oR1RVOCgfRaJHT1ZudHPFjE_QGQ-r5suneyqqoSJR1vA-UjJ4ZCaKUY3EUWK61OcFytdZsxbEkIb4kxfxQtJDhk8NwmnM9_UHYKEt5Bn32-IWIbdwhYCbIyWAn7cEyU5IrTRNbsIJoMfOY7vvWQCj8NdPON2ecvDOeATR1DzDRpo-wrGS2Qo3ldSgWEvg525IFrlF_G-rBrHpU-OsY2c1i00Jb1PAJLAme8j_PTIdHjFoyluDh0cxYNFsVA8qkPtJkrX-RIQ8ic-JkuUAuTee-dr2yUruP7B8fddtv8LYIxC726ZFguipgjUHrD6vcNVwYvYWMpDF5Z5Tmh7R8hVKTtyNWiN84ARZkY-bwLeZVaLoLhTDJ6VVNJuNgdKTPlyeCIqT4Ix8ZgwGQWgsoomeXQvneC2MV0UqOzAnxWsAT5Siq-AOSL0JQc3tDd1BWWyoSWFDcXj_9XxHpTmSK5ZydJl69wGOppjXpZJGcVgwD1sDvXWAQvwinteyXP7PDjC8qG8M4aUU9zo4zXEohsZS-TBZONQ-BlH9AdCRvnt1YDlZCcnTEwUKYeCsnivW3qc1830F3trIS3O9TNLKRGs1gE=w1200-h801-no)
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I have begun saving up... ;D
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I started printing that well, then my plastic snapped... Luckily it was right at the beginning of the build. Probably hadn't used it enough.
Clear filament looks great.
Here are some of my designs if you are interested (http://www.thingiverse.com/Kaybee81/designs) (No pressure, they aren't as good as this other stuff.)
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I just read that 123D wil be discontinued.
What alternatives (preferably not cloud-based) are there for hobbyists like us?
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I just read that 123D wil be discontinued.
What alternatives (preferably not cloud-based) are there for hobbyists like us?
I just saw that too on the Autodesk site
Here is one of their alternatives.
https://www.tinkercad.com
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And the link if you want to download Autodesk 123d (http://www.123dapp.com/design)
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Here are some of my designs if you are interested (http://www.thingiverse.com/Kaybee81/designs) (No pressure, they aren't as good as this other stuff.)
Thanks, I'll give the spider a go.
I've downloaded 123D for my desktop and I'll make sure I keep it on my iPad.
Autodesk are strange. I use Sketchbook Pro for all my layer drawings/paintings and it's really good but I've kept the old Sketchbook too because the 'Pro' version is missing loads of the brushes. It does have improvements, more layers, more undo etc but why remove brushes?
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More painted stuff.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zk4kfSWmIzRTtIC___-sy3fmZOngR3ZmxZHK_QLGZVAZ-QvN0WKA7QmOuKWmW8UTF0_pghBfEFDlM2OWneAQRqFJ8bGsKqrOcRjM3AinkazzKvN2fHkD4Hq_aJtYjuMYBGTv-izVUQs3Ua-NJyxdxZD80QL5-9m_tG2aoiKn9Nv_NHqiqYmSVw7uFl0OOx38RynW5yVTb0z4-X6IStQfAtGGIVfzDkuKaO77gkH47oSwUQwXYVRzGM3Xg_zndzUtpYKZTFJuGWI-hDY01_aIRZee5lrG8EcvSvZDzh3ijsdV7LDDrEFsWfpLlX2vMTI78S3lkJqKpOvMCuRfhrpag7g_jW1m2S6rhFj731Chhaxm7PCzkH7EmvfaP6jfDQzCR8rSrv1bCC9NJLT4IKfJR-6oY2htO_n_958ILFtfyZdBKQWnmcaZzNzh1DwthFkKiZXWG6SEIQ0qqaK1RxRTWjH-jedsYPsEln8_Al7-ASlDMhCmolpzmPRU3TNOLENiR0gfSGuznnr_2zdCsWF3rBLPd_oUrmmsmbNx_flSqUyiftynfSYlZbfzH2lgIOX0F048svERKmZ0yKjgCW11c5KduFbo_e4jGD9B0H8m7E6yPtHLRvuVRQzClQVRVNIfJG8zJ-PK-b06we8STHvqoaIvdWzoUuNiz1X4qf-nfXQ=w1200-h846-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5lQ6jOaB7oLcnyVOjBjzsE9xLEk4VFXRzw3oxOPibjIsCtnewGeoyjOSJ4qQunNo0zbcGQx_xnwIrLAwaimr4R87YV9gx5hNtdITCHQWMdYeU93ofYLrjvOC4e2vloh9mTJOG0KGKPhV_hW0kPV9V0lpWzVdYBP1PdlCNczTUuGuwvDJtnhys3VoLs3bgJ1yUnJzdBMq6HWQPd9TBR2Z6YbOfY2mfwgnZP6FO1LHWiUd6QJjufoxtxhpwHFuiLb2WWTlGQp03oRN48NorrPvVB-nNqtAqTofqRUQd8Dt1FyxMIXW0WFLuxg-iWWCz8i8MbzJcCt8PZQ8-_4mYd5oqgLgPMuUtb25_nWnWP7S7DMZHHtW9GHjPZlk5r6cKuHluIbcw5xeySkAA7j7IHxZ8IIoT9cBSqVKE9cXAk8SH-XriSYePqBkVTv_PjgzJ5g9Beaiyex6VvPmi5OzzwtzK8Qfw6Aomlg90KsZY5JaU_1kMGhR9t4LSjlpmrsYXKetNMPG_7l5N52qw07MqpbB1AT4S4jkJ1aCb2tFxpj_6ot0Kw36dllukOVFpPQdzE3mDm5NffciYAd5DMcjxJjnToujGFXV4_F1shaQYEIpJcKk9hFKByHK4Rx9sLayKLZO9Shgqt2Xflf-QlMtpHMwqGXRggF4jE5g0eWnhL_9DI0=w1200-h777-no)
All for my FRPG campaign:
http://www.matakishi.net/the-black-hack.html
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those eyeball rocks are lovely and bizarre
Aren't they just. There's a lot of creativity in the 3D community. maybe being freed of production cost worries and logistics has something to do with it.
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This week's haul.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xKwSRY-GBbSwKeIUXNJMU2sfqLV6okQ-n-CstORR2hDorg-t3lLgqWgsXWsXU-X553NAaZC_rWeTTVpPqPOgkWZRtHXhXVJzxbvDWjUj1mLa1LmH9g2uEG0ao8NjAfa5cxBZHy9G9mIzS2aWUZ4ALmtnZAR02i-DkNAwh0bT5XAwbbRC2aAggKx1aNiaCDygjm13xjuOTViUlzYVreRxjmLsSdDarKVyHQw2rieyn8YI9g6KRJPPNR9OQaKyUYBXz9BIrRIqeg6lSEPkwWgPQ9zpyz_bnXsBtZVFUPuxiVObHb4-Eed_BwrNpwfYQ17GV186duQA6aW96UDJjrZkvwLuhGSRJ6LAPx9aKyKVCSMhp4f_GwDb7n9kBrjiobbwTXEL8Xv5NoxHM4HYBm-3gv-OUIp6jbHYtC-XqSLFNL7MQs4MgwypisG5Re0ydjNYvyyPvA55jQMNqhAnMI7m7S1rAHIy1lrns87csfAYOcNNn6efjJgOgmGvAFOtqB2l8e_ZBCq8L0k6XWMujEfP1rveKRvuZdoL-thXdTA5dRaPOPpir7nrHAPVDiHf1_XV5ZdagluXSCMyT1NvVaqFb_mnKMuNUyIzAqG1oJo3g6dZJkVACPd_dMoTncA7w26XsAahLOxflE5WXvx1uvvTzq8_kq-6jZFmc6TTHats30I=w1200-h889-no)
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Could you post the link to that cthulhu file
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2086578
Took 22 hours at 10% infill and 0.1 resolution. No supports or rafts or anything.
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That's very nice. I like those little plants too.
My printer has just broken on me. Gets to 94% ready and stops.
Cyclone Cook just came through. Took out the power (16hrs) and I think that fried the circuit board. I didn't even think to turn the thing off for when the power came back on. GRRR.
I've been looking at the printers on Aliexpress. A bit of a gamble but for less than $200 USD if they work they will be a bargain. Then again I also have another coming (hopefully) from kickstarter that was less than $100 and runs off the light from your cellphone to harden the resin.
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Amazing stuff :)
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???!!! what what what!
Semi confident it will arrive. I reckon it will be more expensive to run though.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/olo3d/olo-the-first-ever-smartphone-3d-printer?ref=profile_backed
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I saw that.Whilst the technology is fine some of their claims are...exaggerated.
I thought I'd wait until it hit the shops. The resin is expensive (relatively) and the build area is tiny but it would still be cool to have one.
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I saw that.Whilst the technology is fine some of their claims are...exaggerated.
I thought I'd wait until it hit the shops. The resin is expensive (relatively) and the build area is tiny but it would still be cool to have one.
The engineering doesn't make a lot of sense to me either. Even if a phone screen is optimal for this kind of thing, why not build your machine with an integrated one, and avoid all kinds of tricky problems on hard and software compatibility, light decay trough the bottom glass etc. It feels like a gimmick to me.
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Yep. But cheap as chips. I guess not needing to build the light part keeps the cost down especially when nearly everyone has a smartphone. This way they just need to develop the software, resin and a piece of hardware that slowly pulls upwards. For that price it was worth a gamble.
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I backed the Tiko 3D printer on Kickstarter, I was one of the lucky people that actually got it. I couldn't get it to print anything other than a messy blob of filament.
I'd love to have a printer- I've been designing things and having them printed via Shapeways and VisionProto- but I'm not quite ready to make the leap into getting another one because I don't want to have to fiddle with the thing to get it to work.
I'm encouraged by your results though ;)
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I'd love to have a printer- I've been designing things and having them printed via Shapeways and VisionProto- but I'm not quite ready to make the leap into getting another one because I don't want to have to fiddle with the thing to get it to work.
My first printer, the Wanhao i3 v.2 required a certain amount of fiddling. Not much, but some. It had manufacturing shortcomings that needed to be compensated for by the user. The plus side was that there was/is loads of information online about how to fix the problems. I fiddled a bit and printed a bit but eventually sent it back as a trade in on my new (arriving Tuesday) printer which is a copy of the one I'm currently using- the i3 Omega, basically an i3 with all the improvements and modifications that are recommended online already in place as standard.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, the small price increase is more than compensated for by the improved print quality and the lack of fiddling needed. This takes no more effort to run than a standard 2D printer does- keep it filled up with supplies, keep an eye on the results, sit back and enjoy.
Once the new one arrives and I have two of them I'll be embarking on long print jobs that would have previously tied up my single machine for too long- It's important for me to be able to set a new project in motion, check out an idea, see if something will print quite quickly after the idea strikes otherwise I move on to a 'better' idea :) Having a printer free for my whims whilst the other is spending 100 hours to print my pirate ship is the best option for me.
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my pirate ship
go on .... :o
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I backed the Tiko 3D printer on Kickstarter, I was one of the lucky people that actually got it. I couldn't get it to print anything other than a messy blob of filament.
I'd love to have a printer- I've been designing things and having them printed via Shapeways and VisionProto- but I'm not quite ready to make the leap into getting another one because I don't want to have to fiddle with the thing to get it to work.
I'm encouraged by your results though ;)
I backed pirate3d and was lucky to get mine as well. At least it worked well though. Unfortunately now it is buggered I won't really be able to srt it out.
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first off, wow to the resin printer machine thingie. Worth a gamble at that price.
Second can you not just replace the fried circuit Beefcake?
Finally my Dremel printed perfect the first time and unless I screw it up, pretty much every time. Sometimes it is better to spend a wad of cash and remove all headaches that come with the budget options.
Yep. I could replace the circuitry. $200 though so that is quite pricey and I don't have the knowhow to put other cheaper circuitry into it.
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go on .... :o
Pictures when it works. The previous two attempts on my old printer were disasters.
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The Kraken wakes!
My Kraken is ready for the table top, I'm very happy with the results.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/kraken-002_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/kraken-004_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/kraken-painted-001_orig.jpg)
http://www.matakishi.net/3d-printing.html
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Hey Matakishi
Nice work! Impressed with the volume and scale of what you are printing.. You must get through a few spoils even if you are using low infill!
Having taught 3D printing for a few years now to my students, I've had to do quite a bit of problem solving along the way. I mostly use ABS plastics as the strength and longevity is way superior I find. Pla always has a tendency to cool quickly leaving more of those lines, or even failing ( coming off the plate). I use the acetone treatment on my stuff but also a high build, sand able primer is also good, available at most DIY places.
Slowing your print speed on Cura can make a huge difference. Sure the print goes more slowly but the end result is sometimes worth it.
Finally, the best detail is always that on the surface facing the print head ( ie up). Cutting models in half on a software like Meshmixer can sometimes be a way to solve those issues.
Saying all that, I still tend to do a lot of green stuff work on my models and silicone casting if I want a lot of something can actually work out cheaper and faster. Print/ sand/ sculpt and recast.
Look forward to seeing the next instalment!
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Nice work! Impressed with the volume and scale of what you are printing.. You must get through a few spoils even if you are using low infill!
Thanks. I get through about 1kg every three weeks. 1Kg costs me under £20
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I'm not sure if you have heard about this product for smoothing striations:
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/
I have some and have used it on small pieces; it is less than ideal for little things with delicate details (like what I needed it for) but it might be great for creations like the squid. That's if the lines bother you in the first place.
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I'm not sure if you have heard about this product for smoothing striations:
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/
I have some and have used it on small pieces; it is less than ideal for little things with delicate details (like what I needed it for) but it might be great for creations like the squid. That's if the lines bother you in the first place.
I´ve used it as well. This stuff is efficient but a absulotly mess for your health. While its a 2k resin the Dust from sanding is not recommended to breath in. And the Problem with the fine Details you have already mentioned is a second valid point. Thats why I made some tests to find a replacement for this Resinstuff to avoid Resindust in my shop.
The suprising result is that theres something even better to cover the strokes then XTC-3d and WAY Cheaper....... ModPodge!
Sounds weird but works extremly well especially on PLA Prints. I´ve replaced my whole treatment agents through ModPodge. At a Layerheight of 0.1 - 0.2mm It works with round about 2-3 layers to cover.
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I´ve used it as well. This stuff is efficient but a absulotly mess for your health. While its a 2k resin the Dust from sanding is not recommended to breath in. And the Problem with the fine Details you have already mentioned is a second valid point. Thats why I made some tests to find a replacement for this Resinstuff to avoid Resindust in my shop.
The suprising result is that theres something even better to cover the strokes then XTC-3d and WAY Cheaper....... ModPodge!
Sounds weird but works extremly well especially on PLA Prints. I´ve replaced my whole treatment agents through ModPodge. At a Layerheight of 0.1 - 0.2mm It works with round about 2-3 layers to cover.
Seems to come in more than one variant?
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ModPodge!
Sounds weird but works extremly well especially on PLA Prints. I´ve replaced my whole treatment agents through ModPodge. At a Layerheight of 0.1 - 0.2mm It works with round about 2-3 layers to cover.
Interesting, I have several containers of that around. I wish I'd known!
Thanks ;)
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Did not read the whole thread due to slow internet, but for printing 3D, sand the items STARTING at 180 grit then higher.
If I have to 3D print anything I generally go for a thicker wall to allow sanding.
This works for both PLA and ABS.
just my 2cents worth.
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Seems to come in more than one variant?
Oh sorry! I´m using the Gloss lustre. My "for all modelling purposes" material. Especially Watereffects etc. Well and covering 3D prints!
If you have very large surfaces that would take Time to become really smooth its a good idea to use a papercoverage as well. just soak normal white Printerpaper in warm water. Apply ModPodge and place the wet paper on it. model the paper on the surface with a modpodge soaked brush. Thats brings ot the remaining air/liquid under the paper out. let it try and seal it with 1-2 more layers of thinned Modpodge. You will get a perfect surface.
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Oh sorry! I´m using the Gloss lustre. My "for all modelling purposes" material. Especially Watereffects etc. Well and covering 3D prints!
If you have very large surfaces that would take Time to become really smooth its a good idea to use a papercoverage as well. just soak normal white Printerpaper in warm water. Apply ModPodge and place the wet paper on it. model the paper on the surface with a modpodge soaked brush. Thats brings ot the remaining air/liquid under the paper out. let it try and seal it with 1-2 more layers of thinned Modpodge. You will get a perfect surface.
Sounds like a nice hack. I shall have to try that when I get around to printing some stuff (saving up for a printer atm).
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Got my second i3 Omega set up today :)
Production intensifies!
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/two-printers_orig.jpg)
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So, how does it work with starting the printjobs? Can you start a job on one from your laptop/tablet, then disconnect and work with the other one? Or do you print from SD-cards?
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All the print instructions are on SD cards.
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The official term is a "printer farm" Does this make you a print farmer?
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Last night's game featured a bevvy of 3D printed items.
The Kraken, a giant mummy and sarcophagus, a mysterious proto-head, one of the PCs, a couple of Eidolons.
Upcoming adventures will feature loads more.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170506-220426_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170506-230551_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170506-232134_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170506-233300_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170507-002332_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170507-004442_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170507-004506_orig.jpg)
Full write up with many photos and the latest issue of the campaign newsletter is here:
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
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I'm really enjoying seeing your progress in 3d printing. I'd love a printer myself, but for now I shall just have to live vivariously, and remain full of envy 8)
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Great work. I really like the look of this.
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Thanks. There's a whole lot more 3D printed stuff coming along as things get weird for the player characters. I'm having a lot of fun sourcing files that aren't designed for gaming and using them as props for the game. It's like found item scratch building, takes me back to my roots.
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I've been looking into more cheap my-first-3d printers
I spotted this one
(https://www.imakr.com/us/en/startt-affordable-3d-printer/1146-startt-3d-printer.html)
Very nice price at $99
Manufacturer Startt
No. of Heads 1
Nozzle Diameter (mm) 0.4 mm
Build Volume W x D x H (mm) // W x D x H (inch) 120 x 140 x 130 mm
Printing Temperature 210 °C
Printing Technology FDM
Filament Diameter (mm) 1.75mm
Weight 4 kg
Material type PLA
Heated Bed No
Build Plate Plastic
Layer Thickness (microns) 100 - 300 microns
Platform Levelling Manual
Dimensions 34 x 31 x 32 cm
Connectivity SD Card, USB
Slicing Software Cura
File Input Format STL, OBJ
Software Compatibility Windows, Mac, Linux
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Just purchased my second 3d printer. this one has some nice features my dremel does not. One being a heated bed.
One is never enough :)
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I've been looking into more cheap my-first-3d printers
Very nice price at $99
It looks good if you don't mind putting it together yourself, which isn't difficult, but is too much bother for me. I ended up rebuilding so many parts of my original printer it was like I assembled it myself :)
Also I notice the build area is very small compared to other starting machines, you're only getting 30% of the volume of a Prusa or similar. Again this isn't so much of a problem with single items, especially for gaming pieces, but can be problematic if you want to put multiple things together to save setting up times.
$99 is a very good price either way.
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Today I've been printing spider webs in clear filament.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LR70QX9-Lvo/WRWwTiHp_oI/AAAAAAAB9tY/meK6qiTUZ70Xk-_r9e6cvYrB5EWXhW2hQCJoC/w530-h398-p-rw/IMG_1363.JPG)
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Today I've been printing spider webs in clear filament.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LR70QX9-Lvo/WRWwTiHp_oI/AAAAAAAB9tY/meK6qiTUZ70Xk-_r9e6cvYrB5EWXhW2hQCJoC/w530-h398-p-rw/IMG_1363.JPG)
That is nice.
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I'm mainly glad that the local library put in some 3D printers that can be used by anyone with a library card (With the exception that it's not to be used for anything that breaks copyright or is in the obscene category)...keep wanting to print a few of the things here though when I have time.
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Absolutely love the creative adventure this has set you upon.
We have some super duper quality printers at work, but I don't get time to print anything for myself on them!
I have been thinking of getting a filament printer to offer this as a service to other folks too. Very inspiring!
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Do you set up your prints and do all the work yourself or is there a 3d printing guy at the library that does it for you? What about big prints that take a long time?
There's someone to help, but most of it is doing it yourself. For longer prints, they'll watch them and store the end result for you with things. Only big things that you can't do that with are using the CNC machine or the laser, but the 3D printer is one that can be left running.
You only pay for materials, and if the 3D printer messes up, you don't need to pay for it...and they're currently talking about adding a few dual extruder with the PVA scaffolding/support option.
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Absolutely love the creative adventure this has set you upon.
I'm having a lot of fun sourcing and printing and combining things for my current RPG game. I'm going to be writing an article showing the preparations for one adventure in detail as it's almost a completely 3D printed game. It'll be a while though because I'm working flat out to produce the stuff in time for the game and then it's straight on to the next chapter. The campaign will be over in about 3 months and then I can sit back and take stock.
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Well this looks like a step forward in price for 3d printers. https://obsidian.kodama3d.com/
Sure it will be a kickstarter but if you snag an early bird for $49 I think it will be worth it. No way I'll get an earlybird as they always sell out before I wake up, so I thought I'd spread the news here.
Edit:
Here are the specs
Basic Specs
Printing Technology: FDM
Chassis: Aluminum
Screen: 3.2" TFT Touch*
Connectivity: USB, SD/WiFi*
Camera: 2 megapixel webcam*
*Available as an upgrade.
Printing Features
Build Volume: 120x120x120mm
Layer Thickness: 50-350μm
Heat Range: 180-250°C
Webcam for time lapse. Pointless, get rid of that and ensure you produce a quality product.
Small build volume but big enough for the price.
I'm keen to see more.
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50 microns for $49 is awesome. Most cheap ones only go down to 100. My current printer works at 50 microns but cost a whole lot more.
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That is bloody outstanding, your local library should be heaped with praise.
Yeah, and as a side note, if anyone wants an idea for a gift to family members and you have access to a laser that can etch things, a photo can be etched into a relatively cheap plaque and goes over extremely well.
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Today I've been printing spider webs in clear filament.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LR70QX9-Lvo/WRWwTiHp_oI/AAAAAAAB9tY/meK6qiTUZ70Xk-_r9e6cvYrB5EWXhW2hQCJoC/w530-h398-p-rw/IMG_1363.JPG)
Very cool. Are they durable?
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that is a good resolution. Twice as good as my dremel idea builder!
Yeah but will they be able to deliver on that promise. Worth a punt I reckon.
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Very cool. Are they durable?
Very durable.
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I almost have the money set aside, now :)
All these great ideas and things have made me re-prioritize some personal stuff (no deductions made that would affect other members of the family), so I expect to invest in a printer after the summer holidays.
Those cobwebs are great, and had me thinking if some xenomorph-infested style stuff is available out there.
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Just to keep you guys informed! The Ono3d is listed online for preorder. Fullfillments seems to be up from the June22nd. Together with a Sony Xperia Z5 Premium you get a XYZ Resolution of approx 30 micron. Unbeatable for that price!
https://store.ono3d.net/collections/all (https://store.ono3d.net/collections/all)
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Good news, mine should be on the way some time soon then!
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jepp backers get their machines before regular shipping starts.(otherwise they would be raided I bet^^).
I get my machine out of the pledge of a friend of mine, but there is no resin included ;-/ So I needed an order for printingfilm and Resin in any case!
I´m really exited to see the first results out of this thing.
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Me too. I'm just hoping it can use other resins as well. Shipping will kill me otherwise.
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Atm they offer free shipping for order above 134$. Maybe its a good time to take a bigger stock of the stuff and spare the shipping instead.
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Another chapter (well half a chapter actually) in the latter days of Yarth unfolded last night as my players entered the Yellowing Wizard's Tower of Antor Nemillus and fought the Long Dead Future Men on their way to finding the second of the antediluvian tombs of the Izvoreni- all of which they must locate and destroy before the Golems of Meaning arrive and destroy the world of Yarth (no pressure).
A fair bit of 3D printed stuff here, lots more to come in later episodes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0hzNcTcsRL5I1u5CFP-x9TwPI0P1Y1AaEWhpPSIlkawDrz0CHwPuCL-bm06cIavWoSq6kNQ_i27CZCOATW9TbP4H8Anw9WIr-2jrltqGi-VzaV7pANqbTKtkHtGvFrQ9fBQUvw7U0lN0s8tSJmsTQNmbeRqWNLarSa6mKjyewLDkWON_ZTRyctkBw1um28Pexc1TM_MZUYvK5A1riHCBT1TBE_2vcZUHqigfETsMUD0UYwEQACTfx6YNM-CIzmR0jAmvOFsI8xS4zl4VdQSS0wnHfmPLtBlTI9uoA6yHIsyVg6TnRTqAWE1K8osNGHnFOBm7OUZR394UdlV2nScvX-l-W-VQ8Ex6eep6H-vzNRufPbCspJ8fH5jyGqAFZNwc-rLdGuXMOGapM1K7mPCT2lPJj4DocP7KeCfD2_famg1cA_tQvQl-8QU69RxF7XDUcStio1iBRBU9UtjXaaKZO0kagtnP8RLlTI6y7igPl7d2Lx8Q7dIYWHQW0g0X68-e1a8wYkfcLdEeQ0mIjyllDN7VYSX8OwNjcmXKAfNz-TpKi4FQx0eJ8UlQEAZs_kInnP_tF5KL1Oa4OBdymqFRCIYMz3R7xLOZHgxoyhLF_MSaEdZdvVty2A=w1200-h763-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IbWsYKwx6DJOK6wulHFhS4pUkG5iN6YoVxsztJB3MeUKQdWXNQfwtKG9AaTUgVoyzWjmX3CyeByowXS3uQdn14yWVhNsZqHzvPmnNWFTpLJj_qclQyenUJ5KtE-j7_c0Uom1b-bXEB5Ks0kIM0aT0C8O1SDxMd5k4HMVdfHxqK5zjQyYAuocuKCyg_GsvlcwRKednbM88brOwB4FJzLBgHcSl7altSyJmqYqq7MTphJLy7CRsl0jvzVIp0jUnz4rwESR-NZ32A_nnIIYwLqiw56s3VxJFq9eZ7rn6zeI75VCg0KncGMMPRxA5jxVfb6MfCV4E8FBqyr1DDhbqVuWJP_Ryjvonke4NvV5lcwVnc8ES98mhRbNFSiEi0vhWW9PCfp2VCSoeuidZbfCdOwdR87_MRutlJBswm6AhT0xhpxBDr97OizxWcPUZQY2YAvAxKnE94cVyIvzBYOfPNQKUPWm8sbxayX-qjAgNMe6SXO009GaD6fFn-9TIrntjNzgNoUAd2vCoDUIkWE4y9rOFPjjNaqcljK1raCnfkQNN94vL1HafrMybDGlghHLrU4L7j9u2nilh7NQCNtX3HfwgKRt6oxnk3alZet46taqQTvXJXGa7d5YLA=w1200-h900-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q-kgn-6UOkHV6aOEsNDOJwipLojCv8eYf5_pf2V1RpPiuaV6YTtKPf8QqX-wzIQzUSP4SkN18eNbp9MFhhWUEvQIXK9-e3xp9Gp6SpBJ7ciZXJYOC9kFmtUlNSvilheqk78e6ougO4jH7xE8bDHwleYVO73dRnDW4RVzrcY3afYfZluTHDl0Cj5xinunrdviFvLw0rcwTA3djk5oBuxT_1FG4ojTQXV7ndRx9ci0Jsc50Nu20sT3FQ1ml15roagrmzMyx9YpoJHLH2kkZ8qdvHq8rQeaDd7TMTIA12hqRTy3W53wvgFXe2TsZtriHCfoyCN4pS5YpDF7fCJEfhJDG02FJCrQl-kIYHkeiAMToLprBIn0mT_TqIbQviYQDzgJsStngJ76mWaw7-jenPvxemo2vM05COMqj4FfzT_waaaIn_By8hU7bnXknSBCOlw_QHXRy2EqQgdw40veSibVSrywcY6CWPvgdoL_JKye6u3YUKWrTh4sly6c0GgK3XujQMuf38ugiX1WEyWkPBdewrHUjGDPXY8mhslM5Vdhvtawpn6kJPEJrmsFHqqKxMc2PLUKumtSRiVyGZfraSp92v-YwBw-9zCPXmgKJZmT8U5ujdxBTw3Ukw=w1200-h796-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1EVU9Ps0FNzuS-_--DaUt2uAJmYeTa5PODD48RMFKKwX3et-DfUSoThvq_fwLId1Rp-cfJZ4cehASHIpY7Hdfiyza9i3bsgKK7gIpAdVkYveE48AQ6J9feFY0-_bQhey7bKoujpUsd2G6h4wVkW8DjzaFMH1O1h1NWPTH-IScgURr-aY4S9j9JCIC16G3Jzytmy1g60wIrR_mEPB7zZmuI6mSEa_7y5tOxlZvKTYhbUU1LLhm-I0ucsAoFABQSrPX3qvQpInQPMR-F3EAEkI991tqMhoIA55P6cERGtDbdv3-CcN7BxveIe2gwKl1rGjFkbiwUZCuyVD50-YQACI4KpkWiPuVP2xJYoYxWVYc8KgtidBpw0OfMfoAkaZgysgejv5gkAoTNLnFqJP1C6j5LUJFZPyixvKCT8ldalAkZ1m40KS0Xjg1EbRdxxo349KSKRsK_IZpSqGAUVnbQFmJCXljtFvJrsyQazdq3OjWCdAA66ySNtRfeOceDZCVgNFUjvKDSTDbUhAa07pvMq8YR4tfUVWAxdHhvq0DaAO30Pz0o9Y7ho0uzDK_0h_CqBjCDScaG-3PpBrZs_n4a1xLKaV6Sb1RjtQkVdae4TvRkpSfUIwJzx29g=w848-h961-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kpIU-RcVkZF9xqpR-GvPPZIvry1fQ7cROFuq0Qa26kWTcGQK4g970kLl_YQCfTw5Sm3tYNM3wtVb6gYTA_6x_DYuq4nW_nnoHwJhV8-gwlwmCjXYEQ5mn9BIU3CvLV4459YeGsibHX3ZWyzOiYPrs_BY5uSTGzNxUxeLkhpsS-SX9KXycOiqfDSqs_f6xVHv01w4So_-mwgcGeKKuUdXoXNQ_hNaevhVtBv18FZU8pUcfOgRlHC_mDErXIE0AUXbJAvb8LdjQh49_lX9-DF1FFEDwMUngE71J79xiykzYzCbGtfblOpVfAFCkFTY6UFlf0pmJbXvVUBhg5vzotW-KWYca41yg42pgIkWuogqwcjzRLYQ5HTt-W1iCr69NK0s69m26YmS1w0KW7qR_cwB8AyI66ig3KvtroyIhvmh-7k-QnFukDVsqfzN3wtyoucSWhwl7ZIfSOEdMTi5188IgXiDdTrentBepHjCxP_ybrO5OQOqnXYRFkhpa4vwwm3K-YJCSRP9LD3xarZOAUNzlD1aj6ZjMo8R8dCBNUOKnKGwRuwEwTkyXT4ak2mWz0xZAH6XiXda2sH2zPgefliTb6ce-CVsUcI2x95kdJAZEoFYLgNkvm7VTg=w1038-h960-no)
Full write up with more photos here:
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
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When you do things, you do them perfect, Paul. Very nice.
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Thanks Dirk :)
Here's the next instalment with more 3D printed elements (and a load of scratch building too of course).
Full write up with many photos and the latest newsletter for the campaign here:
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/ywtp2m-001_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/ywtp2-006_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/ywtp2-008_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/ywtp2m-015_orig.jpg)
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(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/ywtp2m-001_orig.jpg)
The stoned... stone.
Quite a fun looking guy
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What's this? Could it be...it looks like a new 3D printer?
Why yes, yes it is a new 3D printer.
Does it have dual extruders so you can print in two materials at once?
Oh yes.
Is it faster and quieter than your previous printers?
Oh yes.
Why did you buy it, surely UPS didn't drive a truck over your previous printer crushing it beyond recognition or rescue when you sent it back to the shop for a minor repair?
Oh yes they did.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EkrUwmaZGcy4LAU_D9EEnJAWEVgLJpkTncFlcqxX1pxoQYDAXQ-eXPUooBBkPGWVDj1Ipeh1zErzmaj6b8swWR16CFQyLkUdISIYASItT7Gfe6e-ta5CF7oKBruruMl80usvKc6sVAPtuEnFtFjHObpPKk7jq0uhKEnrsUTWrnsxqRbjjwyWAae7brkfbPWVjYSSE-v1UM9uBcYQCDeYZ8V1Qb4gHooFD9jaFtVWABjtHE303GxvPIr_yZZ4KywXqX7nzZST7sXIU4-7A3bdzLHgpMC8vs5AUc3kbzueeI7TBKMmr_09XvkYawhMabkGpJSpML19xukysCfrYt2MqpDCNqmwIC0QAn4FhxbwCCQJmRm944qtI9eCC2zQjNtlUJxKl7Bcs8i2jiO_gU-IKEMFV_akT1xg9LDzvaGrEdzOcJ6tudGXbQczDkceOQ-7AlhY5T2SJ8UrlLYN4zerqcrjScqeDCQXkX3Fth3zkBHzCvv1H7uyPVawDdJkwqDXu4hSUY84sMWyRQBjG9wBO9PAOL6GNYltg6kwoFOrqk1pkGrhthroyD3ASTqA3585pLRB6eOK_UePbw7fRMGq5JQ9Es7jEDmgrl9Me24zAKnqWnpnDmBU2g=w1200-h900-no)
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lol
Sorry, but that made me laugh out loud!
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I laughed, but the image isn't loading I'm afraid. o_o
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I'm having a lot of fun sourcing and printing and combining things for my current RPG game. I'm going to be writing an article showing the preparations for one adventure in detail as it's almost a completely 3D printed game. It'll be a while though because I'm working flat out to produce the stuff in time for the game and then it's straight on to the next chapter. The campaign will be over in about 3 months and then I can sit back and take stock.
That is super cool!
I love the yellow teeth frog monster thingies...
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I suppose I have to post the obligatory, "Pics or it didn't happen!"
I want to see the remains of your old printer. And I want to know the make and model of your new dual extruder machine.
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UPS have collected the remains from the supplier to 'investigate' (which means to decide how it was my fault and not theirs.
The new printer is a Flashforge Creator Pro 2016.
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UPS really are a bunch of wankers.
On a lighter note, the ongoing adventures in my fantasy RPG campaign are giving me lots and lots of opportunities to use 3D printed stuff in my games.
This week the heroes enter the lair of the Ebeteen Shackleminds who built homes and shrines in the petrified heads of the Cinderwar Biogomorrhans. What perils await within?
Nothing could have prepared them for...the Spidermind!!!
Full write up and lots of pictures here: www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/shackleminds-lair-006_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/shackleminds-lair-012_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/shackleminds-lair-016_orig.jpg)
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So what's the latest?
Or is there another site that has it?
Thanks
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We're currently on a two week break as one of my players is doing other stuff. We'll be resuming this coming Saturday. Update on Sunday.
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I print at 60 as a default.
Infill makes me feel better and filament is very cheap :)
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This is sort of an odd question. What's the power usage of your printer?
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The average for 3D printers seems to be 50W- so 1/3 of my painting light usage. I haven't measured mine but there's not much to it, three small motors, a couple of fans and a heating element (some LEDs), so I doubt it's substantially more than the average.
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The average for 3D printers seems to be 50W- so 1/3 of my painting light usage. I haven't measured mine but there's not much to it, three small motors, a couple of fans and a heating element (some LEDs), so I doubt it's substantially more than the average.
Thanks for the info Paul. For some reason i thought it would be a lot higher.
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A set of secret doors for my Dungeon project.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/secret-doors-006_orig.jpg)
Individual photos etc here:
http://www.matakishi.net/dungeon.html
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That page is well worth the visit. You're damn close to tipping me into getting a 3D printer :)
Love the dungeon, pretty much everything about it.
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Simply stunning
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Lots of 3D printed goodies in this week's adventure.
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170902-233913_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1150_orig.jpg)
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The print quality of your new printer seems to be quite a lot better than your first one. I'm finding it increasingly difficult to resist the temptation to get one of my own :)
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The print quality of your new printer seems to be quite a lot better than your first one. I'm finding it increasingly difficult to resist the temptation to get one of my own :)
The difference is marked. Most things in this report that are printed are from my second printer, the Omega, which is the best upgrade option from the first at only £100 more. Later items from my 3rd printer are of marginally better quality (not really noticeable) but the printer itself is sturdier. Hopefully this will warrant the increased price (double the cost of the second printer).
I traded in my first printer the Wanhao to get an Omega, bought a second Omega because they were so good (which DHL destroyed) and replaced that one with my current Flashforge. My surviving Omega is currently out of action with an intermittent fault which is baffling me. I'm looking to get rid of it since the Flashforge is supplying my needs.
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No, I haven't needed to so it's been a low priority.
I've painted over 400 things this year, all but six (until a recent spate of pirates I've been doing) have been 3D printed or scratch built items and I still have boxes of printed stuff waiting in the queue. I can't see myself devoting the time to learn how to design stuff properly until I have a real need for something that isn't available.
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What model Flashforge printer do you have? They appear to have a USA site.
This is a very interesting thread!
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I have a Flashforge Creator Pro
(https://www.dream3d.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Flashforge-Creator-Pro-Features1.png)
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I print at 0.08mm which is 80 microns. This is the best resolution this printer will manage.
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The latest instalment of my on-going Black Hack FRPG campaign is up on my site. Everything for this adventure was scratch built or 3D printed except for the resin doors and the character miniatures (oh, and the grave stones).
There's a full write up and loads more photos here:
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170909-220633_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1199_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170909-231541_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1218_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1223_orig.jpg)
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Matakishi, your gaming has taken a Pythonesque turn!
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Last night's game. A tabletop almost entirely populated by scratch built and 3D printed stuff.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1230_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170916-215446_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1238_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1251_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170916-230452_orig.jpg)
Full write up:
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
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Oh man I wish I had my own 3d printer! This looks awesome.
Although I cannot help but notice a distinct lack of Italian plumbers on one of your boards.
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Although I cannot help but notice a distinct lack of Italian plumbers on one of your boards.
I was going to say! lol
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Oh man I wish I had my own 3d printer! This looks awesome.
Although I cannot help but notice a distinct lack of Italian plumbers on one of your boards.
The players are taking the part of the Italian plumbers. If real Italian plumbers were available then there would be no need for the players to intervene. However, there are no plumbers available and the princess still needs rescuing so...
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Last night's game:
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1298_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170923-222316_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170923-221355_1_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170923-231506_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1331_orig.jpg)
Full write up and lots of pictures and interesting maps etc here:
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
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This whole thing has been so inspirational because it's absolutely barmy. Really great!
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So what was in the ? box?
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So what was in the ? box?
The ? boxes release 1ups. In this case a giant (rare) one. These generous creatures sacrifice themselves to take damage on a character's behalf.
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170923-233246_orig.jpg)
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The latest chapters of my on-going Black Hack campaign are available to view.
The heroes combat the terrifying Big Wiggler and chance upon a demon in its own dimension. Harrowing stuff!
http://www.matakishi.net/frpg-adventures.html
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1334_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1342_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20170930-223206_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1362_1_orig.jpg)
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-1381_orig.jpg)
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Last night's game featured more 3D goodness
(http://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20171007-231844_orig.jpg)
full write up with photos:
http://www.matakishi.net/yarth7.html
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Poor Big Wriggler..... :o
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After a delay of some time caused by having to find a new job we're back on track. The latest write up is here:
https://www.matakishi.net/yarth7.html
(https://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20180428-222701_orig.jpg)
(https://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20180428-223846_orig.jpg)
(https://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20180428-231327_orig.jpg)
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The latest instalment.
(https://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/img-2240_orig.jpg)
(https://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20180520-004533_orig.jpg)
Full write up:
https://www.matakishi.net/yarth-8.html
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The final instalment:
https://www.matakishi.net/yarth-9.html
(https://www.matakishi.net/uploads/4/0/8/7/40876893/20180623-234037_orig.jpg)
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great stuff :-*
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nice one, it's been really interesting following it ;-)
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nice one, it's been really interesting following it ;-)
You've certainly made me save up for a printer (I'm ready to order just after the summer holidays).