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Author Topic: Western Town Layout and Board  (Read 13920 times)

Online Malamute

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Re: Western Town Layout and Board
« Reply #105 on: February 06, 2018, 08:41:45 AM »
What a great table.  Plastic bases work for me, which isn't helping my own decision making about using clear bases for my western figures or going with more traditional ones so they match all my other figures  lol


You know the correct answer... ;) lol

The town looks great, very lived in with all the clutter etc. Spot on ;D
"These creatures do not die like the bee after the first sting, but go on age after age, feeding on the blood of the living"  - Abraham Van Helsing

Online Michi

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Re: Western Town Layout and Board
« Reply #106 on: February 06, 2018, 08:48:42 AM »
You know the correct answer... ;) lol

Fourty-two...

Offline OSHIROmodels

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Re: Western Town Layout and Board
« Reply #107 on: February 06, 2018, 09:04:12 AM »
Great looking table and I think the clear bits supporting the fence work very well  :)
cheers

James

https://www.oshiromodels.co.uk/

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Offline Eric the Shed

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Re: Western Town Layout and Board
« Reply #108 on: February 06, 2018, 02:43:51 PM »
stunning...

Offline Vagabond

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Re: Western Town Layout and Board
« Reply #109 on: February 16, 2018, 07:12:46 PM »
Sorry I was in the middle of posting my thanks for your kind comments when the site went down. I am much more pleased with the scenery basing than I thought I would be, it remains to be seen how well it stands up to usage.

What a great table.  Plastic bases work for me, which isn't helping my own decision making about using clear bases for my western figures or going with more traditional ones so they match all my other figures  lol

Dr D most of the figures were resin and so easy to do but since then I've done more metal ones and they have not been a problem. For me at least the western figures don't really cross over with much else that I'm doing and so the game is either clear bases or not. I don't like the idea of some of one and some of the other on the same table, but it is no different to the normal games we play where your opponents figures are based differently to your own.
I had to take some figures off the clear pvc and rebase them again on clear pvc, they were a bugger to remove and when I got them off the pvc was still stuck to the feet of the figures and I had to cut it off with a knife, so very good adhesion with poundland super glue. the only negative was that I believe the glue had made the pvc a bit brittle, so as I was hacking at it to get the base off it broke, but I was using quite a lot of force.

Going at this about face as usual I've started a series of games on my fairly new blog where I am playing games as the town is built building by building, the pictures I posted here is how it will be in the end but the games portray it as it was being built - if that makes any sense.
I will probably post the 1st game here so you can see what I mean and you can call a doctor and a little white van.
Cheers

Offline Rossyuk

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Re: Western Town Layout and Board
« Reply #110 on: February 17, 2018, 12:29:20 PM »
Caught this post a bit late what pdf's did you use for the buildings?

Offline Vagabond

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Re: Western Town Layout and Board
« Reply #111 on: February 17, 2018, 04:12:39 PM »
Hi Rossyuk - Better late than never ;)

I didn't use PDF's what I had was either some old buildings in balsa or I made some carcases from foam board, and then printed sheets of wood texture I got from the internet. CG Textures is a good start but there is a lot of stuff out there.

Measure, cut, ink edges, and paste inside and out. Then the same thing with doors and windows, either pasting them over the wood texture or in some cases I had windows already cut out of the building with frames in, so left those in place or used embroidery plastic grating to create the central pieces of the window.

The bigger problem was I wanted to get a 3d effect so cut up coffee stirrers or latterly fire lighting spills to create the frames around the doors and windows, these were difficult to paint in situ because I couldn't mess up the printed wood texture, and I wanted a fairly rough painted finish on the wood work.

I also used coffee stirrers to edge all the bit's of the false front and sidewalks then tried to match the texture finish with my paint work.

Finally the better roofs are warbases card shingles painted by me - badly, the other roofs with the light shingles are textures I had on the buildings, from 25 years ago. I thought that they would do but the more I look at them the more inclined I am to replace them. I don't think printed roofs work because you can see more easily that there are no graduations in the shingle textures and the printing doesn't overcome that enough.

All I was trying to do was utilise old stuff that otherwise I would have thrown out and do a quick job so I could start gaming with something halfway decent. As it turned out I believe I would have been quicker to go down the coffee stirrer route and paint them. My problem is that I'm not good painting buildings and I didn't want them all grey and weathered which is what I usually end up with.

You could try World Works Games - they used to do some nice western pdf's although I'm not totally sure if they are in business or not. I got some brick buildings from them a couple of months back but apparently their site is up and down like a brides nighty.

Hope that helps - oh the other thing is signs and posters - they make a world of difference. If you look at the Tail Feather Saloon and then search out a game I posted on this board "Big Iron" to see it before postering and you will see what I mean.

 

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