Update: Removing paint from resin miniatures

[Sardoo]

I recently found a GW resin miniature hidden amongst my “started painting years ago and hope to finish it before the year 2525” pile. I’d like to strip the acrylic paint off the model and start again but have no idea how to do this without reducing the figure to a greasy puddle on my workbench.

I’d be really grateful if someone could suggest the best way to get the paint off.

[Dags]

Used dettol on resin bases without issue

[Sardoo]

Cheers, will give that a go.

Thanks for the tip!

[Cubs]

+1 for the Dettol (has to be Dettol, not a cheap pine disinfectant), although it is a bit smelly.

Soak overnight at least (I leave them 2-3 days) and then (wearing rubber gloves) scrub all the offending muck off with an old toothbrush. It will be all gooey like warm chewing gum. Rinse back in the Dettol pot and scrub again.

Only when you are satisfied that you've got off all you can, should you then rinse in (hot soapy) water. If you do it before, any bits of melty paint left on the model will instantly reset.

[SotF]

Best thing I've found is to use an ultrasonic cleaner and put it in for a few cycles of run, pull it out and rub it down and then back in. Doesn't take as much time and there's less risk involved.

[FifteensAway]

Depending on the resin's chemical composition, that Dettol might result in a blob.  If you can go the ultra-sonic route, better chance of success.  Though if the paint isn't too thick, can't you just paint over it?  Only reason not to I can think of is if you are painting for a contest.  Otherwise, I'd opt for a simple repaint - maybe with a spray primer first.

[Sardoo]

Thanks for the help, folks!

In the short term I'll give Dettol a try - the figure is still available let so if I end up with a disaster it's not the end of the world.

The ultrasonic option isn't one I'd thought about and looks like it will reward further investigation.

Unfortunately the simplest option of repainting the figure probably isn't going to work for this miniature as it has a lot of braid on the chest and if I put on yet more paint I think it would really flatten and obscure this.

Thanks to all for your helpful advice - much obliged 

[zemjw]

Best thing I've found is to use an ultrasonic cleaner and put it in for a few cycles of run, pull it out and rub it down and then back in. Doesn't take as much time and there's less risk involved.

Are you using just water in the cleaner or something else? I have a cleaner, but I've never tried to use it to strip a figure

[Rich H]

Isopropyl alcohol.  It's the bit in dettol that works. 
A dip for an hour and a scrub with someone elses toothbrush. 
Rinse - repeat.  I'd not let it soak overnight for fear of the resin getting weird. 

[Cubs]

Isopropyl alcohol.  It's the bit in dettol that works. 
 

It's actually the combination of the isopropyl and pine oil. I've tried isopropyl on its own and it's not as effective.

[Curis]

Acetone-free nail polish remover works a treat.

I had this 40K scale Titan, it's a early 1990s resin beastie:

After 30 seconds dunked in a jug of the stripper I could toothbrush it back to:

After another 30 seconds dunked in a jug of the stripper I could toothbrush it back to:

But be warned: only use acetone-free stuff, else it will eat your resin.

And test it on a small area first, as there's always a chance it's a formulation that will melt in the stripper.

[SotF]

Are you using just water in the cleaner or something else? I have a cleaner, but I've never tried to use it to strip a figure

I've done both. It works best with various cleaner options, but it can clear a lot off with just water...takes a lot longer with water as well. If you're using a cleaner, get a fine, mesh strainer that you can fit over the things door and a bucket or bowl that you can dump the cleaner through between runs to clear it out a bit because you can get a lot more life out of it by clearing stuff out.

The cleaner also does work well as something to use for keeping family happy with you because it can easily be used to clean older jewelry so that can help keep them from pitching a fit there.

The tabletop minions youtube channel has a lot more on using one with one of the earlier videos...

[Rich H]

It's actually the combination of the isopropyl and pine oil. I've tried isopropyl on its own and it's not as effective.

You might be right but I was nervous about the 'other' contents of dettol causing a reaction!

[Sardoo]

I've now had a look at ultrasonic cleaners but there appears to be a bewildering range of them - could anyone suggest one that they have used successfully for paint stripping?

Thanks for any advice / help.

[Connectamabob]

We don't have Dettol in the 'States. When I need to strip paint, I usually use either Simple Green, Super Clean, or isopropyl (rubbing alcohol).

Simple Green takes an overnight soak to work, but is the safest in terms of materials. You can leave resin or plastic in it for months with no effect on the material, bu it'll take most paints off with a 1-2 day soak. It can turn some metals black, however (I think it reacts with zinc and maybe some other pot-metal ingredients).

Super Clean (the stuff in the purple jug) will strip anything of anything with a 10-30 minute soak. It'll also strip the lipids from your skin instantly, so it's important to wear gloves. This is the "nuclear option" for stubborn stuff like chrome-plated plastic parts.

When I just need something stripped fast without too much fuss, isopropyl is surprisingly effective, but you don't want to leave resin parts in it for more than maybe an hour. Probably depends on the resin, so IMO I try keep it under 20 minutes. Isopropyl is surprisingly effective, able to strip almost any kind of paint pretty fast, but it sort of dissolves the paint whereas the others above more delaminate it, so the ones above are more "fire and forget". Iso requires you to keep parts wet (with iso, not water) while scrubbing, otherwise the paint re-slolidifies and re-bonds. The stuff above can be scrubbed with ordinary water, as it simply causes the paint to lift/peel off, and drying or displacing does not cause re-bonding.

I can't say if Dettol is more effective than isopropyl, as I have no experience with Dettol. If so, that would speak more to Dettol being CRAZY effective than isopropyl being any kind of ineffective.