Dry fitting plastic miniatures- help sought

[Janus71]

I have started assembling my first ever plastic miniatures (Warlord's), and it's proven much fiddlier than expected. How should I do it? By using tiny bits of blue tac for example? Any other method i should be aware of?

I've tried to hold everything in place with my fingers, but that certainly doesn't work...

(Also, would gluing the minis to the plastic bases be enough in the medium term? I don't think I'll be using them much anytime soon other than painting them.)

[Captain Blood]

Yes, you can use little bits of blu-tack, but it's a bit fiddly.
Best thing is to actually use a tiny drop of liquid polystyrene cement to try out the arms, heads, etc on the torso. The components will pull apart again easily enough within a few minutes, and you can re-use them elsewhere if you decide you don't like that particular assembly.
And yes, it's strong enough to stick the figure to the base if you use a decent liquid polystyrene cement. It doesn't stick - it literally melts the plastic and fuses the join together so it's like one material.

Good luck with it

[Janus71]

Wow, that was quick! Thanks!

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the terms or materials. Would this be the "liquid polysteryne cement" you say?:

https://www.faller.de/App/WebObjects/XSeMIPS.woa/cms/page/pid.14.17.91/agid.1114/atid.777/lg.en/ecm.at/SUPER-EXPERT-Plastic-Glue-25-g.html

[Charlie_]

Wow, that was quick! Thanks!

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the terms or materials. Would this be the "liquid polysteryne cement" you say?:

https://www.faller.de/App/WebObjects/XSeMIPS.woa/cms/page/pid.14.17.91/agid.1114/atid.777/lg.en/ecm.at/SUPER-EXPERT-Plastic-Glue-25-g.html

That's probably the stuff, though I'm not familiar with the brand.

This is the stuff I (and I know a lot of other people) use - Revell.



You'll find assembling plastics MUCH easier with this stuff. Don't use superglue. It's good in that it sticks pretty instantly, you won't need to sit there holding the components together as you wait for it to dry... but it doesn't set permanantly for say 20 mins. So you can change your mind 5 mins in and the components will pull apart easily - you'll probably just want to quickly wipe the surfaces unless you're gonna use both of them again. But once it has set, it's solid as a rock.

In comparison, superglue seems to struggle to get a hold, and then suddenly sticks HARD, including your fingers to the model!

[Charlie_]

(Also, would gluing the minis to the plastic bases be enough in the medium term? I don't think I'll be using them much anytime soon other than painting them.)

What do you mean here? if you're asking if the glue is enough to fix them to their bases, absolutely it is! What do you do with your metal minis other than superglue them to the bases?

[grant]

I used to only use superglue for everything, but then started with Plastruct Weld for my latest all-plastic Numidian army; I’m very impressed with how well the brush glue works, Capt. Blood is spot on: a small amount and you can reposition or replace the part in question.

[Janus71]

Thank you vey much everybody for the advice   .

What do you mean here? if you're asking if the glue is enough to fix them to their bases, absolutely it is! What do you do with your metal minis other than superglue them to the bases?

I wanted to know if it is really necessary to drill pins in the figures to hold them to the bases, specially or those standing on a single leg.


I'll give them another try tomorrow then .

[Hammers]

Thank you vey much everybody for the advice   .

I wanted to know if it is really necessary to drill pins in the figures to hold them to the bases, specially or those standing on a single leg.


I'll give them another try tomorrow then .

Pinning is not for all miniatures (regardless if it is plastic or metal). It can both weaken or strengthen a miniature, all dpendingbon the shape of the part.

[Nord]

I never pin plastic minis, the glue creates a sufficient bond on even the smallest join. If you think the contact point is too small to the base (half a foot for example), just get a spare bit of plastic, glue the foot to that, then glue the bigger "new foot" to the plastic base. Cover the "new foot" with sand/basing materials and nobody will ever know. But I would just try to glue the original model to the base first, see how it sticks. Remember to let the glue dry for a few hours, don't be tempted to wobble it to see if it's really stuck. You can always hold the figure in place by resting it against another figure while it dries.

[Janus71]

I never pin plastic minis, the glue creates a sufficient bond on even the smallest join. If you think the contact point is too small to the base (half a foot for example), just get a spare bit of plastic, glue the foot to that, then glue the bigger "new foot" to the plastic base. Cover the "new foot" with sand/basing materials and nobody will ever know. But I would just try to glue the original model to the base first, see how it sticks. Remember to let the glue dry for a few hours, don't be tempted to wobble it to see if it's really stuck. You can always hold the figure in place by resting it against another figure while it dries.

I don‘t understand how the contact surface is increased when you you use an intermediary part between the foot and the base. If my understanding is correct the the surface will have stayed unchanged? How thick would your „bigger foot be“

Is filing the sole of the feet a good idea for a more solid union? Not necessary?

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

If you use polystyrene cement (e.g. Revell Contacta Professional), as recommended above, you do not need to fill in the foot.
Hard polystyrene parts join very solidly to each other even with a small contact area.

Polystyrene can be glued to Wood and MDF bases if there is a large surface area (e.g. a 10mm diameter circle base as on most Perry plastic figures).

If you are joining a plastic foot to a wooden or MDF base, a thin plasticard circle or square (also polystyrene) in between gives you a good bond to both.

[jon_1066]

I would recommend using the liquid style cement rather than the gloopier stuff.  You can offer up the parts to be joined then run a brush with the glue on it over the joint.  Capillary action will draw the glue into the joint and hey presto it welds it together.  Minimal fuss and no sitting there for ages whilst you superglue your fingers to the model.

[Hammers]

A good hobby store, esp those selling plastic model kits, can provide you with a whole range of different liquid glues.

I personally use these for polystyrene projects:



Humbrol Liquid Poly: A fairly thin liquid with just a small amount of dissolved polystyrene content.  It has a brush applicator. Especially useful when you are gluing large pieces and sheet plastic together.




Revell Contacta: About the same content as the one above but has a thin pipe applicator. Very handy for precision work. The pipe tends to get clogged which is why I keep a length of brass wire in it.




Tamiya Extra Thin: A very thin liquid polystyrene glue with, I suppose, almost pure solvent (acetone or some such). This stuff is almost completely non-sticky so it wont hold the parts together while it fuses. The best way to use it is to apply a small amount on each part, wait a minute, and then clamp the bits together while they fuse. The benefit of this glue is that it has the potential of a very clean join.



Humbrol Poly Cement: Your basic poly glue. It has a fair amount of dissolved polystyrene in it which makes it stick and may hold smaller parts in place by itself without clamping.


If you are the thrifty sort and friend of the environment you can try to make your own glue. Orange oil is a relatively mild (somewhat less effective) polystyrene solvent and mixed with a little styrofoam you can create a batch to a whichever consistency you like. I bought and used a pot of such stuff years ago and it worked just fine. Smells nice to.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-glue-from-recycled-expanded-polystyren/

[Janus71]

If you use polystyrene cement (e.g. Revell Contacta Professional), as recommended above, you do not need to fill in the foot.
Hard polystyrene parts join very solidly to each other even with a small contact area.

Polystyrene can be glued to Wood and MDF bases if there is a large surface area (e.g. a 10mm diameter circle base as on most Perry plastic figures).

If you are joining a plastic foot to a wooden or MDF base, a thin plasticard circle or square (also polystyrene) in between gives you a good bond to both.

Ok, i get it now! For the time being im sticking to the bases that already come in the boxed plastic sets. Its too early to start investing in those fancy alternatives ..