Regular primer vs miniature primer

[Janus71]

Is there any advantage in using a special primer for miniatures? Or is it the same as any regular car primer that can be found anywhere (and cheaper)?

(I thought somebody would have already discussed this, but i havent found it on the forums)

[OSHIROmodels]

I've found automotive primer (Halfords camo brown) to work best for me but there will be other primers out there that work just as well 

[Westfalia Chris]

Is there any advantage in using a special primer for miniatures? Or is it the same as any regular car primer that can be found anywhere (and cheaper)?

(I thought somebody would have already discussed this, but i havent found it on the forums)

I have had very bad experiences with non-modeling primers, such as them repelling water-based paint or reacting with it. I think it really boils down to specific comparisons of brands.

Personally, I very much prefer the Army Painter Uniform Grey, and it isn't really that much more expensive than other supposedly acrylic primers that are available in my neck of the woods. It also very much depends on where you are located (Germany, in my case). UK non-hobby primers may be differently formulated than the stuff we get here and therefore better suited.

[vexillia]

It depends on what you are priming:

• For plastic I think it's all very much of a muchness.
• For lead I'm not even convinced that even hobby primers are that good.

For an explanation of the latter see this blog post and for those in the UK this is my current recommendation.

[Antonio J Carrasco]

After trying different branches, I only use GW primers now. They are the ones that give me the best results. The only caveat is that Corax White primer needs three straight minutes (no the 2 recommended) of hard shaking to get the best results and avoid the Grainy Primer of Doom effect, particularly in dry, hot weather conditions -which are common in Madrid, from May to October-. I have made some experiments and found that more than 3 minutes don't add any noticeable benefit, while less than 2 minutes got the worst results. Other GW primers worked well enough with 2 minutes shaking the can.

[Cubs]

I used to use Citadel and Army Painter sprays and they were both good, but I had problems with propellant and/or nozzles with each of them, wasting anything from a quarter to half of the paint inside.

Now I use a brush-on primer (Vallejo) followed by a (very cheap) spray paint (Hycote) which ticks my boxes nicely.

[grant]

I am a big fan of the Vallejo primers; I airbrush all of mine and ensure everything gets covered.

[YPU]

I used to use Citadel and Army Painter sprays and they were both good, but I had problems with propellant and/or nozzles with each of them, wasting anything from a quarter to half of the paint inside.

Now I use a brush-on primer (Vallejo) followed by a (very cheap) spray paint (Hycote) which ticks my boxes nicely.

Exactly the same for me on both counts, the issue with the cans and the new method.

[Mick_in_Switzerland]

I have been using brush on Acrylic Gesso.
I think it is actually quicker than spraying and then touching up.
It is also non smelly so you can do it inside - an important factor in winter.

[Antonio J Carrasco]

I used to use Citadel and Army Painter sprays and they were both good, but I had problems with propellant and/or nozzles with each of them, wasting anything from a quarter to half of the paint inside.

Now I use a brush-on primer (Vallejo) followed by a (very cheap) spray paint (Hycote) which ticks my boxes nicely.

I had that same problem with Army Painter, but never with Games Workshop sprays.

[Janus71]

Exactly the same for me on both counts, the issue with the cans and the new method.

What do you gain from combining both? Why not leave it at only the Vallejo primer?

[Janus71]

I am a big fan of the Vallejo primers; I airbrush all of mine and ensure everything gets covered.

Not an option : i dont have an airbrush and dont plan on getting one anytime soon. But thanks for the input anyway 

[Tactalvanic]

I have been using brush on Acrylic Gesso.
I think it is actually quicker than spraying and then touching up.
It is also non smelly so you can do it inside - an important factor in winter.

Yup me to, although I have several Vallejo acrylic primers as well, its diluted black acrylic gesso I end up using the most.

Its what I have found I am most comfortable and happy with so far anyway.

[Cubs]

What do you gain from combining both? Why not leave it at only the Vallejo primer?

Right, for me, I tried just using the Vallejo primer, but it wasn't particularly adhesive (maybe because I brush it on) and started to rub off slightly during painting. Plus, it's a bit shiny and slippery (again, perhaps because I brush it on), and I prefer a completely matt finish to my primer.

So, by brushing on the Vallejo primer I do get a nice coverage that reaches into all the nooks and crannies. Then by using the spray afterwards it adds another layer to reinforce it, and gives a more matt finish for me to paint on.

I know it sounds a bit of a hassle, but I don't paint in huge numbers and it's no time at all for me to scrub the first primer on with a scruffy brush, making sure I'm getting into the hard-to-reach bits. Even combining the cost of the Vallejo primer (pretty cheap for a big bottle) and the spray (Hycote is the cheapest I've seen) it's still cheaper than the GW or AP cans and there are no issues with wasting a proportion of the paint because it no longer sprays.

[vexillia]

I tried just using the Vallejo primer, but it wasn't particularly adhesive ... and started to rub off slightly during painting.

This means it's not a good primer!  I presume this is for lead?  By the way the method of application is very unlikely to affect the adhesion.

... by using the spray afterwards it adds another layer [to the Vallejo primer] to reinforce it ...

Subsequent layers (paint, varnish, or whatever) will add resistance to abrasion but it won't do anything to change the substrate/primer adhesion. This would require the second layer to penetrate the first. Sadly, the weakness of the first layer will always remain.

Your experience highlights why special metals primers for non-ferrous metals exist.