Sable brush woes

[Orctrader]

Maybe you've got dry paint build up deep in the ferrule.

I use Plastic Poly glue - the stuff for gluing hard plastic figures - Put the brush in right up past the ferrule.  I leave it for about 30 seconds, then with a pin ease out the paint the glue has now softened.  Being, of course, very careful not to damage any of the hairs with the pin.  Then rinse with cold water.

Repeat as necessary.

I think I read the tip on Steve Dean's site years ago.

[sniperbait]

 

That sounds quite extreme. I guess the glue doesn't set because there is no plastic to activate it, so to speak.

[Orctrader]

That sounds quite extreme. I guess the glue doesn't set because there is no plastic to activate it, so to speak.

Correct.  The glue remains liquid, attacks only the dried acrylic paint.  After the "pin treatment" I usually wipe off with a clean paper towel and it is really surprising how much has come out.

When I first tried this as a test I used an already ruined brush.  Too far gone to be saved but the stuff that came out of the ferrule...

So far I have never seen any bristles detach.  Not that I use the method that often, but it does give a bit longer life to my older brushes.

[Gary Peach]

Im now using 90% acetone, nail polish remover.  It cleans and softens the brushes.  However that looks like a dead brush from the start.  Its the nature of some brushes to just do that.  Has it happened on another brush too?

[sniperbait]

I've got one of the GW brushes with the orange tip which I suggest wasn't the best brush in the first place. I was given that one and it had already been used.

I'm resigned to loosing the simonart brush, but it'll be interesting experimenting with it.

[Billchuck]

That sounds quite extreme. I guess the glue doesn't set because there is no plastic to activate it, so to speak.

Liquid poly cement isn’t glue. It’s a solvent that dissolves plastic. When it evaporates, the melted plastic goes back to solid. Using it on your brush like this is like using a really aggressive paint stripper.

[stone-cold-lead]

I burn through brushes at a ridiculous rate so over the course of a year I buy a lot. Seems some just go like that. They're fine for a bit and then they just start fish tailing even when kept clean. Occasionally you'll get one brand new that does that. Personally I'd scrap it and buy another.

[Hammers]

Work some acrylic thinners or paint stripper into it, work the base of the brush hairs with your thumb nail to loosen any dried paint, rinse off then work some hair conditioner into the hairs for a minute then rinse off.

Don't do this unless you are rather cavalier about your brushes! Detergents like those Bugsda suggests will dissolve the paint but will shorten the life expecansy of the bristles considerably. Linseed soap, or artists soap diluted in water is what you need.

Artists brush soap...



...will dissolve the paint but also condition the bristles (re-grease them slightly).


To reshapen your paintbrushafter a thorough cleaning, use very fine grade sandpaper and then spit-and-lick as per usual.

[Hammers]

I've got one of the GW brushes with the orange tip which I suggest wasn't the best brush in the first place. I was given that one and it had already been used.

They are shit as far as if you want a brush which will last.

[sniperbait]

The GW brush is one that I'm happy to experiment with. I think that brush soap will be on my xmas list.

[Hammers]

The GW brush is one that I'm happy to experiment with. I think that brush soap will be on my xmas list.

Brush soap is in my 'basic kit'. The last thing I do after a session is to wet the surface of the jar and apply my brushes to them and rinse.

[grant]

I have a jar of Vallejo brush cleaner; the jar has like a bristly foam in the bottom, which can help with paint removal. I use series 7 W&N and despite lots of use, find that regular cleaning keeps them fresh as the day I bought them.

[Captain Harlock]

the problem with most second and third grade kolinsky brushes is that most of the time they are not kolinsky at all thats why the use the most vague sable label. They are still better than the nylons, but eventually they wear down faster than the real thing.
Also one reason that i avoid buying good brushes online is that you cant be sure about the quality. The brand name is not enough anymore since most things are outsourced to slave labour chinese factories and just slap on a logo. There was a time that most of the W&N series 7 i would pick up, had bad tips. The way you can test the tip, is by wetting the brush, and then make a wipping motion till it hits your hand. When struck the lose wet hair should form a perfect pin point tip. If there are hair flying around, then its not a good brush for detailing.
Raphael seem to be more consistent. Im lucky enough that there are two importers of the russian brushes Roubloff in Athens so i can see them in person. Their master series reminds me the series 7 of old times and they are alsombetter priced. I never got a bad one and even their cheaper sable series and the naylon ones are excellent.

[sniperbait]

Sounds a bit like memory cards. Unless you get them from a decent supplier (not eBay) you can't be sure they aren't fake copies. Well, all my heroic efforts have indeed come to nothing and the brush remains rubbish.

I got a couple of W&N S7 miniature brushes (0 and 4) but haven't had much time to use them. The 4 is too big for anything other than blocking colours and generous washes but despite its size, is still a joy to use as it's so predictable. It just does exactly what I expect when I put whatever amount of pressure on the bristles.