To strip or not to strip...

[Menelduir]

Hi

Perhaps a (really) dumb question, but do I really need to strip the paint off old figures before I repaint them?

Until recently I have never purchased figures that had been painted by someone else, so I have never had occasion to repaint figures. Certainly I have retouched some of my existing figures, sometimes more than just a simple re touch, almost a full repaint. I have also repainted die cast vehicles, but in these cases I just re-primed them black and then started with a clean slate.
However it never occurred to me to strip them first.

So when/why would one strip figures.
Is it when the paint on them is so thick that another layer will mar any remaining details?
Is it concern over the new paint adhering to the old paint?

Thank you

[grant]

I usually just reprime, but I airbrush prime, which tends to be thinner as a layer.

That being said, if the models are metal, and the paint is already thick, an acetone bath and a scrub with a toothbrush takes care of it.

I don’t like working on repainting plastics if I can avoid it.

[Onebigriver]

I would definitely strip them if the paint is thick and they've been varnished. If not then it's personal choice IMO.

Plastic figures can be stripped with a quick soak in Cutex acetone-free nail polish remover and a scrub with an old toothbrush. Cheaper acetone-free nail polish remover can be too abrasive.

[Hobgoblin]

The cheapest and best way to strip figures that I've found is Biostrip.

It's non-toxic and non-smelly (no fumes!), and it works really quickly. Half an hour in the stuff does the job; often the paint sloughs away so well that you hardly need to scrub with a toothbrush. It works on both metals and plastics. I've occasionally had a very old (early 80s) miniature that retains a little enamel paint, though not so you'd notice once re-undercoated, but most come out as good as new.

[mcfonz]

I'm with hobgoblin on this. I used to swear by dettol before. Mainly because my airways can be sensitive to the fumes of things like nail varnish remover. And plastic tubs I tend to do it in can be sensative to more aggressive stripping agents.

Biostrip is also much, much quicker and does not require the same amount of effort to actually remove the paint. And it works on plastic. Very useful when I picked up a GW Valkyrie recently for £10 because of the paint job.

Useful tip - cocktail sticks for those areas the paint is harder to get out. Doesn't scratch.

[Hammers]

I would definitely strip them if the paint is thick and they've been varnished. If not then it's personal choice IMO.

This.

I'd like to add that even if old paint may have clogged details on the miniature, stripping and brushing a miniature down *also* may cause a miniature to lose detail.

I thumb rule I use is that if a miniature is painted with a thin, matt paint like Humbrol enamels, down't bother stripping. If the mini is painted with an water soluble acrylic (which tends to set relatively thicker), strip. Acrylics are often easy to strip.

[Cait Sidhe]

Thirded on biostrip, it's good stuff.

It works on both metals and plastics.

Word of warning don't use it on resins though! I have no idea why given how non-toxic and safe it generally is but it eats through resin or at least some resins. Luckily it was just a resin base on a mini but it left it rough and pitted like it was just straight up dissolving it.

[Elbows]

100% Strip.

Acetone works pretty well on metals also.  Metals are basically the easiest thing to strip, since almost zero chemicals will harm them.  I use a heavy degreaser with an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner.  Paint, particularly hand painted...is often thick.  And on occasion it's even painted over older and other paint.  Having stripped hundreds of miniatures by now - it's absolutely worth it.  In some cases I found 3-4 previous paintjobs under the one I received on it!

This blog post details me going through and "rescuing" a miniature from eBay (several actually).

http://myminiaturemischief.blogspot.com/2016/06/step-by-step-spiders.html

Here's an example as well:

eBay received:


Questionable paint, questionable base...even some old metal flash/tags still on the mini.

Cleaned up via Ultrasonic jewelry cleaner and some Super Clean degreaser...it's essentially a brand new miniature.


Reassembled, repainted, rebased (not very well mind you!)


Fair warning..."Saving" models can become addictive.

[mcfonz]

When they are worthy miniatures, and will be rescued to that degree, it is always worth it.

I nearly always strip now. The paint has to be thin and of a useful colour for me not to.

If it isn't thick and the colours are similar, I bung a dark wash over it. But honestly, biostrip is so easy I rarely do anything but strip these days.

[Menelduir]

Thank you everyone.

As has been said by others before, this is a great group, always quick with helpful responses.
I will be assessing the figures again, to determine the best approach.

Again thank you

[Ninefingers]

Another vote for Biostrip here...

[grant]

Acetone. Not only smells great, but 30 minutes and done 

And super chill for the next hour...