Thank you Carl.
I do get uncomfortable about adding a picture of my toys on some else's thread. It just seemed the easiest way to explain how little sub you needed to build to get it to look like one.
As I mentioned I thought the bow planes that folded was a great idea( on earlier models they looked a little undersized((for my taste.)
I don't think your style needs to go down to the 4mm thick Hull on mine. As it's a mash up of several ww1 subs. But there's an anti warping trick hidden in plain sight.That's useful to know.
The A frame wire at the bow and wire's from the conning tower to the stern are actually there to counter act the ends as the try to warp upwards. There's plenty of cross members with in the structure of the hull to counter any twisting.
Your design style woild really pop if you halved the hight to the rivet line thats visible in the bow picture and move the detail into that zone.
You've made some really nice ship's I think you may find the relationship between the ships and your submarines will improve with them sitting lower water.
You subs are fine as they are not suggesting otherwise . Lower in the water works better when its in conversation with other scenery items. (It's just one of those things I do it with museum displays I always change the hieght of the water line of ships and boats when theres a quay or river bank to relate to. 'To scale ' isn't always what your eye appreciates when interpretating a scene. As you've built preconceptions of what right.)
God that sounds preachy
in short every body KNOW's a submarine is low in the water so it needs be low in the water to look more submarine. Do it to a more realistic height it starts to feel more ship like and clunky.(Especially if there's additional visual reference points such as people and other vehicles.)