28mm pulp submarine #6

[roadskare63]

Hi all, me again.....just the lat
est pulp submarine with a few more changes to original design. I sharpened the bow, and added some different surface angles/curves for a slightly different visual.
As usual, I used cardboard, foam core, mini grommets, stick pen parts/tubes, plastic bitz, sewing snaps for the hatch handles and sunglasses for the dive planes. I intended this model to be uses as a generic pre WW1-1950's cold war diesel submarine playable in any 28mm war, post apoc, or pulp scenario.








Let me know your thoughts on this one.....
Cheers,
Carl

[tin shed gamer]

I've watched the evolution of your submarine designs. The increased size of the bow planes is a good choice as is the inclusion of additional curves.
I do think you can comfortably play with the deck hight in relation to the waterline and still achive a convincing submarine.
Personally I use a very low deck hight and extend detail elements past the deck and the  water line to help suggest that there's more length to  submarine below the surface.
Your designs are fun and have a great feel to them.I enjoy seeing them .
I'm not say I invented the wheel. I hope this quick pic of one my cereal packet musings . Gives you some direction/scope ,on just how low in the water you can go and still have room to game.Without having to experiment .
Plus lower the deck the less materials and time it takes to build
Mark.

[Marine0846]

Excellent work.

May I ask what is the length of the sub?


tin shed gamer, like your sub, very cool.

[roadskare63]

Marine0846, this sub is 22 5/8 in or 57.4cm long...5 3/8 in or 3.6cm wide...5 34 in or 14.6cm high
hope that helps.....
Cheers,
Carl

[roadskare63]

Mark, i have been a fan of your work ever since i found this site many moons ago...and I really appreciate your comments and ideas on direction........i just might try the lower waterline style you pictured there soon.....QUITE soon....that is one fantastic looking sub!!
Thank you for posting it.
Cheers,
Carl

[tin shed gamer]

Thank you Carl.
I do get uncomfortable about adding a picture of my toys on some else's thread. It just seemed the easiest way to explain how little sub you needed to build to get it to look like one.
As I mentioned I thought the bow planes that folded was a great idea( on earlier models they looked a little undersized((for my taste.)
I don't think your style needs to go down to the 4mm thick Hull on mine. As it's a mash up of several ww1 subs. But there's an anti warping trick hidden in plain sight.That's useful to know.
The A frame wire at the bow and wire's from the conning tower to the stern are actually there to counter act the ends as the try to warp upwards. There's plenty of cross members with in the structure of the hull to counter any twisting.
Your design style woild really pop if you halved the hight to the rivet line thats visible in the bow picture and move the detail into that zone.
You've made some really nice ship's I think you may find the relationship between the ships and your submarines will improve with them sitting lower water.
You subs are fine as they are not suggesting otherwise . Lower in the water works better when its in conversation with other scenery items. (It's just one of those things I do it with museum displays I always change the hieght of the water line of ships and boats when theres a quay or river bank to relate to. 'To scale ' isn't always what your eye appreciates when interpretating a scene. As you've  built preconceptions of what right.)
God that sounds preachy  in short every body KNOW's a submarine is low in the water so it needs be low in the water to look more submarine. Do it to a more realistic height it starts to feel more ship like and clunky.(Especially if there's additional visual reference points such as people and other vehicles.)

[roadskare63]