What basing glue are you using?

[pixelgeek]

I have tried that on some and it seems to have worked nicely with securing the sand, but I am also wondering if it's normal to have to do several "layers" of PVA + sand to level out the "step" and ensure a decent coating of basing material.

I do a single coat of sand on the entire base and then, if there is a step caused by the base I go back and run a line of glue around the base and then sprinkle more sand on just this area. That is usually enough to create a transition between the miniatures base and the sabot I put it on.

If there are large areas of sand on the base then I will often go back and add small patches of glue and then resand those to break up the large areas and make them less uniform.

[Mindenbrush]

Seems as though you are using the old GW sand and PVA mix which is then added to the base.

I mount all my single figures on thin steel washers that have been primed black.
Then I apply undiluted PVA to a the base and sprinkle sand over the PVA.
Allow to dry and repeat as required to build up the difference between the figure base and the washer. When it has all dried I apply 3 or 4 thinned coats of PVA to seal the sand to the base.
Next I brush prime the figure and base.
Then I paint the base and dry brush the base the normal basing colours.
When that is dry I gloss varnish the base so that I don’t rub off the base colours during painting even though I use a bigger washer under the original base to protect it.

[Gibby]

I think sealing was the stage I was missing. I'll be sure to do that on all models from now on!

[vexillia]

I've found this topic intriguing because I've never had a problem of PVA not sticking sand to bases. 

I have had to be careful to ensure the PVA covers the metal bases I routinely use.  Even though I paint the metal base first the surface tension of the PVA invariably causes pooling but not to the extent that it wont cover or stick.  When I've used (unpainted) plastic bases I have noticed more of a pooling problem.  With porous MDF there's hardly any issue.

I do always use two layers of PVA/sand.  The first covers the whole base.  The second covers all the base except the figure's base to hide any step.  If it helps I've found that:

• Sprinkling the sand on with the base almost vertical so the excess sand falls off is far better than dunking.  This is because it prevents the PVA wicking through excess sand by capillary action and leads to more consistent, if thinner, layers.
• Diluting the PVA makes the pooling and wicking far worse and leads to both initial bare patches and uneven, thick layers.
• Only use enough PVA to cover the base.  Excess glue, even if undiluted, risks wicking and overly thick layers especially if you leave the base in the sand for any length of time.
• Excess glue can and does result in smoother surfaces.  Sand will sink in excess glue. The problem occurs when the glue doesn't shrink enough during drying to expose the sand and produce a nice rough surface that can be easily dry brushed.
• I've never had to seal a base with dilute PVA nor found it necessary to paint a base to ensure adhesion.

If you're using plastic bases have you thought of preparing the base with a coat of neat PVA alone before adding PVA/Sand?  Whatever you do please let us know how you get on.

[manic _miner]

 I have started to use a cheap filler from Poundland to help cover the bases and bring them level.Then put the sand on.Adding a watered down pva glue will help seal it like others have said.

[anton ryzbak]

I attach my minis with Liquid Nails (a commercial construction adhesive) I put a dot on the penny and press the mini's base down on it. The excess is then molded around the base with a wet fingertip and left to dry. I then mix craft acrylic paint 50/50 with Titebond Wood Glue and paint the base before swirling in the sand mixture before flocking. Thousands of figures over several decades and they have held up remarkably well. https://antonswargame.blogspot.com/2019/12/all-about-that-base.html

[AndrewBeasley]

I managed to get some Woodland Scenics Scenic Glue cheap - amazing stuff but costly normally.


Currently I'm using PVA from Wickes - their own label and that's nearly as good and a tenth of the price!


For bases, I never water the glue down beyond 10% water and always let it dry.  Then a spray of IPA and then Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement via dropper.  Only when that's dried do I paint.  Scenic cement is like very watered down PVA but it's not nor is it PVA and IPA - but it works.


Do not use wood glue (esp the green and red bottled ones) - it goes yellow and ruins snow bases (whimper).

[Rick F]

Just to throw another method into the mix. I superglue the figures to 25mm washers from Wilco (£2 for hundreds) then cover with B&Q brown wood filler, no need for sand and when it's dry you can add washes and dry brush to get whatever look you're after, a dark brown wash for muddy Europe, flesh wash for Africa etc.