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Author Topic: Advice on making or buying a table that's 6ft x 8ft that extends to 6ft x 12ft?  (Read 2733 times)

Online Daeothar

  • Supporting Adventurer
  • Galactic Brain
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  • Posts: 5746
  • D1-Games: a DWAN Corporate initiative
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Daeothar has the right idea but the way he's illustrated the hinges just won't work - though it may be that he is trying to show the hinged swing out as transparent.  Spend some time thinking about how the hinges will work and even try some dry runs. 

Like I said; bad sketching, but yes; I was going for a transparent look at the hinges. Obviously they go on the bottom, or the thing just won't work.

And for simplicity's sake, I only drew one hinge for the legs, but in reality, you'd want at least two, with a supporting diagonal, or a full frame (in effect much like EndTransmission's nice table) for stability.

The concept works; I've seen (and experienced) several in person over time...
Miniatures you say? Well I too, like to live dangerously...
Find a Way, or make one!

Offline fred

  • Galactic Brain
  • Posts: 4360
    • Miniature Gaming
Another consideration.  For most people, a six foot wide table is quite a reach.  I recommend limiting the width to five feet.  !

I agree - I would seriously consider if you need the 6’ depth. One of our group has a table this deep, and it’s really hard to reach stuff in the middle - and we never play on the 6” nearest the player.

Offline cram

  • Mad Scientist
  • Posts: 943
I'll give the table depth some consideration.

I have read that table height plays an important part when having a table six feet deep. Tables are generally two and half feet high. But a more practical height for a wargames table six feet deep is a three foot high table its claimed, its easier to reach the middle with the added table height, because your now bending at the waist, rather than leaning down and then forward. 

I've tried leaning across the dining table to reach three feet in, and it is a bit of a stretch, but reaching three feet in on a kitchen unit which is three feet high is much more comfortable. So table height does indeed seem to play its part.

« Last Edit: May 31, 2020, 01:00:38 PM by cram »

Offline SteveBurt

  • Mastermind
  • Posts: 1283
Kitchen worktop height is much better for a wargame table; another reason why kitchen units make such good bases for tables.

Offline Eric the Shed

  • Galactic Brain
  • Posts: 4200
    • The Shed Wars Experience
Having just reconfigured my games shed and rebuilt the table I would strong recommend building three tables and mounting these on casters (so you can move them easily. These could each be 2ft x 6ft. Pushing them together gives you a table 6 x 6 . Pull them apart and put in inserts - each 2ft wide and 6ft long - this would give you a table 10 x 6ft.

Maybe my build can help...

http://shedwars.blogspot.com/2020/04/another-shed-extension-part-5.html

good luck

Offline arloid

  • Bookworm
  • Posts: 57
A dropleaf would be the easiest, you can either create a swiveling support on both sides with a peg for mounting either free floating a short distance like 1 feet each side, or with a leg to support the weight, you could add wheels to the legs or make them hinge as well and preferably make the angle at which they rest on the swivel stop it from collapsing again.

Second way would be to have the table slide outwards and let a panel lay in the created void, preferably on the apron, which can be used to mount or create the sliding mechanism with.

Third way would be dependent on the height of the table and the dropleaf, create a pair of legs and let it hinge underneath the dropleaf, when it is time to game you slide in the apron, you might need to mount the legs so they can rest next to each other and some overhang is needed before you start the dropleaf.

 

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