Ok, here's the short version how I did it:
Model was undercoated with a Humbrol light khaki colour, wheels, driver and security cage painted separately and glued on later. Let dry 24 hours.
Ink washed with Game Colour inks, mix of sepia and skin wash. Let dry thoroughly. Yes, it's not a job for people short on time ...
Sealing the work with a shot of Erdal Glänzer, aka Future Flour Polish; let dry ...
On with the decals, softened with a solve and set system; let dry ...
Light (and I mean LIGHT) drybrushing with at least two light khaki/ocre acrylics, I usually work with Ral Partha, Game Colour, Foundry, Andrea, Coat d'arms or Vallejo, among some others.
Now the fun starts: for the main weathering process I heartily recommend to study
Brent Watterson's techniques thoroughly here:
http://www.thecourtjestersstudio.com/WPM/download.htmlDownload issue 2 of WP&M and read his article "Winter War" several times. That's, what I did, and even after more than 30 years of painting and modelling I was in love with his innovative approach.
After those I dappled on some mud staines with a piece of plastic sponge (from your blister pack) and some acrylic mud colours.
Then the rust came into play: I used
Rustall, a nice product I can heartily recommend and which is not expensive, keeping in mind that you will buy a set including three other components of good future use in your weathering toolbox:
http://www.rustall.com/On to the pastels. I use different brands, for a start you could use just cheap artists pastels rubbed down on abrasive paper to ground your own powder. I used black, red brown, sand colours and off-white/grey pastels on different areas to filter and change the colours of the car.
The trick with the sandy tires goes as follows: paint the wheels as you like and let dry (again
). Then take some light coloured powder, e.g. a yellowish sand colour, with a brush and push it heavily onto the rim and more less on the tyres. Use some Tamiya thinners to spread the powder into the depressions and let dry some hours. Repeat if necessary.
If you would like to learn more about those techniques, invest some money and buy this book:
"F.A.Q. Frequently Asked Questions About AFV Painting Techniques" by Mig Jiminez, available here:
http://www.amazon.de/Q-Frequently-Questions-Techniques-Modelling/dp/849652762X/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books-intl-de&qid=1212264197&sr=8-3This book is very highly recommended if you would like to reproduce some realistic looking vehicles. (No, I'm not involved in this publication nor a personal friend of Mig
)
For a taster have a look at this site:
http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007/03/painting-and-weathering-tutorial-part-i.htmlThis guy is using a lot of the techniques described in Mig's book, so read through parts 1 - 4 and get on to some practice.
I finished the car with a coat of Humbrol Gloss as it will see a lot handling during play, and after - yes, you guessed it right - 24 hours of curing time, another two coats of matt varnish were brushed on; I used
Blackfriars for a real flat finish.
So, here we are. If you think, that's a lot of work, you're quite right, but please keep in mind that some steps go really fast, you have a lot of waiting time for the colours and stuff to dry, and last but not least you asked for MY approach. Just do it your way and make use of whatever you like. I hope I was in-detail enough without getting you to sleep too soon ...
If you would need more infos or deeper explanations, just let me know.