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Author Topic: "Advanced" Dipping?  (Read 2084 times)

Offline Philhelm

  • Scientist
  • Posts: 484
"Advanced" Dipping?
« on: February 12, 2016, 03:24:10 PM »
I've tested several models with Army Painter Quickshade with varying results (although I brush it on).  Has anyone ever tried to block paint a model, but incorporate black lining before dipping/brushing, and how did you feel about the result?  Also, I'm still torn between the Strong Tone (dark brown) and the Dark Tone (black); which do you prefer, and why?

Offline throwsFireball

  • Scientist
  • Posts: 369
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2016, 03:33:40 PM »
Strong Tone and Dark Tone are used for different things.

Strong Tone I use for metals, clothes and the like. Dark Tone I use for stuff that's going to have strong / obvious depths like stoners. Dark Tone is also best for monochromatic colours (putting depths on whites and greys since strong tone just makes them look dirty).

Also, I usually paint over any place the dark tone has split over and just leave it in the crevices. Occasionally do a layer of strong tone over that and just repaint the highlights.

Offline Ray Rivers

  • Galactic Brain
  • Posts: 5918
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2016, 06:15:49 PM »
Has anyone ever tried to block paint a model, but incorporate black lining before dipping/brushing, and how did you feel about the result?  

I use black lining on my miniatures, normally on areas which I want clear separation and depth. Presently I'm painting up a bunch of 18mm minis and want to move through them quickly yet give them a great look. Normally I will paint the flesh first, then black line around the flesh and any other areas I clearly want separation of color. After black lining I then block paint the miniature and then use washes (sorry I don't use Army Painter stuff). For example, I normally use GW's Reikland Fleshshade for flesh and light colors such as tan and Nuln Oil for darker colors such as blue. I finish by highlighting appropriate areas.

Overall, they come out quite crisp with easily seen details... especially for the 18mm folks I'm presently working on.

Offline Jagannath

  • Mastermind
  • Posts: 1653
    • Blades and Blasters
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2016, 05:13:23 PM »
I use dip on 15's like this - black undercoat, light basecolours leaving black lining between them, then a highlight the dip. Works well once I worked out how light the basecolours need to be.

Offline eilif

  • Scatterbrained Genius
  • Posts: 2383
    • Chicago Skirmish Wargames
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2016, 06:53:07 PM »
Never tried blacklining in conjunction with dipping.

As for Strong vs. Dark (I use Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut and Tudor instead) It's simply a matter of the colors involved. I use Strong/Walnut for things that I want to have a brownish hue. generally this is natural colors, yellows, browns, tans, etc.  Tudor/Dark I use on things where a brownish tint would look wrong. This often is things like greys, armor, reds, some greens, etc.
 
These are by no means hard and fast rules.  I've done some greys with Strong/Walnut and when you have dark brown fur and want to add a strong contrast Dark/Tudor is the right tool

If you'd like to see my take on the brush-dip method I've made a tutorial here...
http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2012/01/with-liberty-and-brush-dipping-for-all.html
...with lots of pictures of strong vs dark near the bottom.

One thing I will say is that I started off using Walnut for most things but now I tend to reach for Tudor first. My recent Necromunda Van Saar and Sedition Wars Vanguard (on the blog as well) were all done with Tudor.

Offline obsidian3d

  • Scatterbrained Genius
  • Posts: 2009
    • o2media
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2016, 11:14:53 PM »
I think the Tudor is quite a bit less pigmented than the Army Painter Dark Tone. I use the Minwax as well because it gives a sort of 'fine lining' effect without darkening the colours down too much. Regardless of which dip I use I always highlight over the top of it to bring back some of the depth to the original colours.
obsidian3d
www.o2media.ca

Offline eilif

  • Scatterbrained Genius
  • Posts: 2383
    • Chicago Skirmish Wargames
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2016, 02:34:03 PM »
I think the Tudor is quite a bit less pigmented than the Army Painter Dark Tone. I use the Minwax as well because it gives a sort of 'fine lining' effect without darkening the colours down too much. Regardless of which dip I use I always highlight over the top of it to bring back some of the depth to the original colours.
I've not used AP products so it's possible that it's less pigmented, but Tudor is pretty dark. I don't think I'd want to go any darker.

I rarely highlight over the top, as usually the colors underneath (sometimes with a touch of edge drybrushing) are  bright/light enough.  Also I'm lazy.

Offline obsidian3d

  • Scatterbrained Genius
  • Posts: 2009
    • o2media
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #7 on: February 19, 2016, 05:02:36 PM »
I prefer to think of it as 'efficient' as opposed to lazy. :)

Offline eilif

  • Scatterbrained Genius
  • Posts: 2383
    • Chicago Skirmish Wargames
Re: "Advanced" Dipping?
« Reply #8 on: February 19, 2016, 05:31:54 PM »
I prefer to think of it as 'efficient' as opposed to lazy. :)

I'm going to use that!

 

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