Varnish/Stain Recommendations

[pops]

Hi,

I am looking for a recommendation.  I have been using the longer technique of painting using multiple layers, dry brushing etc.  Looking for a quicker way for the shadowing.  Anybody using varnish or stain on their cowpokes?  Would like to know what sort to use and any technique tips.  For instance - brush on or dip?, etc.

Thanks,

Frank

[hentzau]

I use Army Painter Strong Tone shade on all of my minis now.  I use a brush rather than a full dip, I tried that on my first few figs and felt it was just too dark that way.  Probably didn't shake enough off.

I tried Minwax Polyshades as well, and it didn't do nearly as good a job as the Army Painter quick shade.

They won't win any prizes, but they look good on the table and I can get figs painted up way faster.



(Crappy picture, they look better on the table.)

[Elbows]

Yep, if you deep they're definitely dark.  I also use Army Painter strong tone...I dip mine, and then dab away excess with small bits of paper towel (laid out before hand).

Variety of figures/colours dipped.



Dipping is a slightly acquired art...but is very useful if you're okay with cheating and just getting good looking figures (note: not great) on the table.  If you're a master painter or perfectionist it won't be the way to go.  It's one of the only reasons though I've finished some 200+ minis in the past few years.

[pops]

Thanks guys.  Will check out recommended product.  Thanks for the photos!  The figs look terrific - and I would be quite happy indeed with mine looking 1/2 as good as yours!

[sundayhero]

Personaly, I make my own figures stain, using odorless wood stain ( you can clean the brushes with water, and it dries pretty fast). This way, adding paint or ink, I can create diferent color stains.




I usually don't use this technic, except for 28mm plastic masspainting (like my zombie horde, my D&D plastic bestiary) or sometimes 20mm masspainting too (talibans).

The only diference with "classic" dipping technic is that I use it as a shadowing technic only, not a finishing technic. Once the shadows are done, I rework the figures, especially the highlights.

Here's a sample pic :



I made 3 diferent sample stains, using my clear stain and diferent mixes of black and brown vallejo game inks. I also use brush instead of dipping, and I finally apply mate varnish.

Hope it helps

[hentzau]

I think some of the best examples of "dipped" wild west figures come from the brush of philhendry.

Link to his thread of DMH figs and buildings.

[Yggdrasil]

Armypainter Strongtone for me, too.


I use Kevin Dallymores 2 Colour Technique with an extra step of adding the mentioned wash after basecolour. So it's:

1. Base Colour
2. Wash
3. Base Colour for first Highlight
4. Highlight.

[pops]

Wow!  Thanks guys.  Your figures are terrific!

[Harry Faversham]

'Snake Eyed Pete', block painted then fettled with Army Painter Strong Tone shade...



 

[Belizaire]

I sold off the last miniatures (some Napoleonic French) I had used Army Painter on so don't have any photos available to post. I am working on an Old West project now and will be using Strong tone. As has been mentioned, you won't win any painting contests but you will get a miniature that looks good from 2 feet away plus you will save a lot of time by not highlighting and shading and highlighting again.


What I did with the French was block paint main colors then used a brush to apply Army Painter. Let that dry at least 24 hours and went over things such as white straps and metal bits with appropriate colors. Maybe a bit of highlighting here and there. Once paint dried I then sealed them with Testors Dullcote.  Two more things to consider-- when Army Painter dries it is very shiny and it also forms a protective coating. Once those miniatures dried I don't think a cat could have scratched them.

Paul