My 3D printing Odyssey, final RPG instalment page 11

[beefcake]

!!! what what what!

Semi confident it will arrive. I reckon it will be more expensive to run though.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/olo3d/olo-the-first-ever-smartphone-3d-printer?ref=profile_backed

[matakishi]

I saw that.Whilst the technology is fine some of their claims are...exaggerated.
I thought I'd wait until it hit the shops. The resin is expensive (relatively) and the build area is tiny but it would still be cool to have one.

[YPU]

I saw that.Whilst the technology is fine some of their claims are...exaggerated.
I thought I'd wait until it hit the shops. The resin is expensive (relatively) and the build area is tiny but it would still be cool to have one.

The engineering doesn't make a lot of sense to me either. Even if a phone screen is optimal for this kind of thing, why not build your machine with an integrated one, and avoid all kinds of tricky problems on hard and software compatibility, light decay trough the bottom glass etc. It feels like a gimmick to me.

[beefcake]

Yep. But cheap as chips. I guess not needing to build the light part keeps the cost down especially when nearly everyone has a smartphone. This way they just need to develop the software, resin and a piece of hardware that slowly pulls upwards. For that price it was worth a gamble.

[Dr Mathias]

I backed the Tiko 3D printer on Kickstarter, I was one of the lucky people that actually got it. I couldn't get it to print anything other than a messy blob of filament.

I'd love to have a printer- I've been designing things and having them printed via Shapeways and VisionProto- but I'm not quite ready to make the leap into getting another one because I don't want to have to fiddle with the thing to get it to work.

I'm encouraged by your results though

[matakishi]

I'd love to have a printer- I've been designing things and having them printed via Shapeways and VisionProto- but I'm not quite ready to make the leap into getting another one because I don't want to have to fiddle with the thing to get it to work.

My first printer, the Wanhao i3 v.2 required a certain amount of fiddling. Not much, but some. It had manufacturing shortcomings that needed to be compensated for by the user. The plus side was that there was/is loads of information online about how to fix the problems. I fiddled a bit and printed a bit but eventually sent it back as a trade in on my new (arriving Tuesday) printer which is a copy of the one I'm currently using- the i3 Omega, basically an i3 with all the improvements and modifications that are recommended online already in place as standard.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, the small price increase is more than compensated for by the improved print quality and the lack of fiddling needed. This takes no more effort to run than a standard 2D printer does- keep it filled up with supplies, keep an eye on the results, sit back and enjoy.

Once the new one arrives and I have two of them I'll be embarking on long print jobs that would have previously tied up my single machine for too long- It's important for me to be able to set a new project in motion, check out an idea, see if something will print quite quickly after the idea strikes otherwise I move on to a 'better' idea Having a printer free for my whims whilst the other is spending 100 hours to print my pirate ship is the best option for me.

[redzed]

my pirate ship

go on .... 

[beefcake]

I backed the Tiko 3D printer on Kickstarter, I was one of the lucky people that actually got it. I couldn't get it to print anything other than a messy blob of filament.

I'd love to have a printer- I've been designing things and having them printed via Shapeways and VisionProto- but I'm not quite ready to make the leap into getting another one because I don't want to have to fiddle with the thing to get it to work.

I'm encouraged by your results though

I backed pirate3d and was lucky to get mine as well. At least it worked well though. Unfortunately now it is buggered I won't really be able to srt it out.

[beefcake]

first off, wow to the resin printer machine thingie. Worth a gamble at that price.

Second can you not just replace the fried circuit Beefcake?

Finally my Dremel printed perfect the first time and unless I screw it up, pretty much every time. Sometimes it is better to spend a wad of cash and remove all headaches that come with the budget options.

Yep. I could replace the circuitry. $200 though so that is quite pricey and I don't have the knowhow to put other cheaper circuitry into it.

[matakishi]

go on .... 

Pictures when it works. The previous two attempts on my old printer were disasters.

[matakishi]

The Kraken wakes!
My Kraken is ready for the table top, I'm very happy with the results.







http://www.matakishi.net/3d-printing.html

[thejammedgatling]

Hey Matakishi

Nice work! Impressed with the volume and scale of what you are printing.. You must get through a few spoils even if you are using low infill!

Having taught 3D printing for a few years now to my students, I've had to do quite a bit of problem solving along the way. I mostly use ABS plastics as the strength and longevity is way superior I find. Pla always has a tendency to cool quickly leaving more of those lines, or even failing ( coming off the plate). I use the acetone treatment on my stuff but also a high build, sand able primer is also good, available at most DIY places.

Slowing your print speed on Cura can make a huge difference. Sure the print goes more slowly but the end result is sometimes worth it.

Finally, the best detail is always that on the surface facing the print head ( ie up). Cutting models in half on a software like Meshmixer can sometimes be a way to solve those issues.

Saying all that, I still tend to do a lot of green stuff work on my models and silicone casting if I want a lot of something can actually work out cheaper and faster. Print/ sand/ sculpt and recast.

Look forward to seeing the next instalment!

[matakishi]

Nice work! Impressed with the volume and scale of what you are printing.. You must get through a few spoils even if you are using low infill!

Thanks. I get through about 1kg every three weeks. 1Kg costs me under £20

[Dr Mathias]

I'm not sure if you have heard about this product for smoothing striations:

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

I have some and have used it on small pieces; it is less than ideal for little things with delicate details (like what I needed it for) but it might be great for creations like the squid. That's if the lines bother you in the first place.

 

[DELTADOG]

I'm not sure if you have heard about this product for smoothing striations:

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

I have some and have used it on small pieces; it is less than ideal for little things with delicate details (like what I needed it for) but it might be great for creations like the squid. That's if the lines bother you in the first place.

 

I´ve used it as well. This stuff is efficient but a absulotly mess for your health. While its a 2k resin the Dust from sanding is not recommended to breath in. And the Problem with the fine Details you have already mentioned is a second valid point. Thats why I made some tests to find a replacement for this Resinstuff to avoid Resindust in my shop.
The suprising result is that theres something even better to cover the strokes then XTC-3d and WAY Cheaper....... ModPodge!
Sounds weird but works extremly well especially on PLA Prints. I´ve replaced my whole treatment agents through ModPodge. At a Layerheight of 0.1 - 0.2mm It works with round about 2-3 layers to cover.