Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Age of Myths, Gods and Empires => Topic started by: philhendry on August 07, 2015, 03:20:09 PM
-
Here are my first Aventine Miniatures Hoplites of Magna Graecia (Greater Greece - i.e. Southern Italy in this case) for my Pyrrhic/Tarentine force. Just the usual paintjob - white primer, block paint, slop on the QS, matt varnish; shield transfers by Little Big Men Studio.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Greeks1.jpg)
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Greeks2.jpg)
-
Even if it's a simple paint job they do look rather grand :)
cheers
James
-
Even if it's a simple paint job they do look rather grand :)
cheers
James
Yep, they look terrific ;D
-
Looking great, Phil!
-
Thanks lads!
-
Bleeding good wouldn't know its QS
-
Lovely unit Phil, you are the master of the QS style of painting.
-
However you reached the end, you did a great paint job on the way. 8)
Stuart.
-
Terrific application of the QuckShade method as usual, Phil! :)
Cheers,
Scott
-
Blinkin' marvelous Phil :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
Do you think that your method would work on Classical Indian skintones?
Darrell.
-
Very nice unit! :D
-
Beautiful paint-job on some really nice figures!
-
Wow, excellent results for a quick method. Very neat, clean, and even!
-
Blinkin' marvelous Phil :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
Do you think that your method would work on Classical Indian skintones?
Darrell.
Hi Darrell,
Almost certainly... In fact, the mahout on one of my Sassanid elephants looked very 'Indian', so I painted him that way - looks really good - better than, er, white men in fact.
-
Hi Darrell,
Almost certainly... In fact, the mahout on one of my Sassanid elephants looked very 'Indian', so I painted him that way - looks really good - better than, er, white men in fact.
That's great news.... expect me to be picking your Brains (your painting brain that is!) very soon :)
Darrell.
-
Lovely work, as always Phil :)
Dave
-
That's great news.... expect me to be picking your Brains (your painting brain that is!) very soon :)
No worries, happy to help… Though for a moment there I thought you'd become a zombie!!!
-
Lovely work, as always Phil :)
Thanks Dave!
-
Painting looks terrific. (Many examples of QS over the web look, er, not this good. ::))
Some close-ups of one or two figures would be good. :)
-
No worries, happy to help… Though for a moment there I thought you'd become a zombie!!!
lol Not too far from the truth lol
Thanks. I'll be in touch mate :)
Darrell.
-
Painting looks terrific. (Many examples of QS over the web look, er, not this good. ::))
Thank you!
Some close-ups of one or two figures would be good. :)
I don't really do close-ups… My figures are supposed to be viewed at table-top distances - if I was being pretentious I would say that they are like an Impressionist painting - designed to be viewed form a distance instead of peered at from close range. But, I have relented, a bit… Here is a sort of close-up:
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Greeks2Crop.jpg)
-
I don't really do close-ups… My figures are supposed to be viewed at table-top distances - if I was being pretentious I would say that they are like an Impressionist painting - designed to be viewed form a distance instead of peered at from close range. But, I have relented, a bit… Here is a sort of close-up:
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Greeks2Crop.jpg)
I understand completely. :) As I paint in a different style - only occasionally using washes - I'm always curious as to how other styles look. So thanks for bending your own rules. (Incidentally, these look pretty good to me!)
Thanks again. :)
-
Amazing work and photography, these are very lovely, Phil, great to see you performing QS magic again :)
-
Thanks! This week I've painted another 16 figures to complete the unit:
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/HopliteL.jpg)
-
Superb as always. You always seem to get the colour combinations spot on!
-
Thanks! I love choosing colours for wargaming projects - on the strength of that, I even get the job of picking colours for decor around the house! The missus openly admits that I have a far better eye for colour than she does.
-
Aventine does some great minis.
And yours looking awesome! :-*
-
Stunning Phil! Your Pyrrhus project is really cracking along.
-
Great showcase for those Aventine models!
Thanks for sharing, hope there's more to come.
-
Great showcase for those Aventine models!
Thanks for sharing, hope there's more to come.
Thanks Lads!
Yes, more to come - just starting on a unit of 30 Tarentine levy phalangites - five ranks of six figures. They will, quite deliberately, use virtually the same colour palette as the hoplites on this page - so they look as though they're from the same place.
-
Those do look superb. Simple often beats complex, especially if there's a lot of 'em to do.
-
Those do look superb. Simple often beats complex, especially if there's a lot of 'em to do.
Thanks! I aim for simple, relying on 'mass' to make them look good on the table. It seems to work!
-
Very sharp paint job Phil.
Which quick shade are you using...Dark or Strong? Also, are you thinning your quick shade or using straight from the pot?
I'd love to know what block colour shades you use...any chance you can share?...they have very nice muted tones.
Cheers
Happy Wanderer
-
Just Wow!!!!!
:-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
Ii'm not even going to ask how long they took to paint up- please don't answer that!! lol
Darrell.
-
very nice indeed
-
Thanks for the kind words lads. In terms of time, I'm not sure, but in a good week with a 'normal' amount of 'free time', I reckon to complete the equivalent of a 30 figure unit. I often don't manage that, because I get bogged down with real life. Best ever, as far as I remember, was 48 figures in a week.
Very sharp paint job Phil.
Which quick shade are you using...Dark or Strong? Also, are you thinning your quick shade or using straight from the pot?
I'd love to know what block colour shades you use...any chance you can share?...they have very nice muted tones.
Here's the section from my notes (I always keep notes, so I can go back later and add figures and have them look consistent with the older ones) - in roughly the order it's applied to the figures.
Prime white.
Flesh: Foundry 5B Flesh
Hair: Black, dry-brushed Foundry 42B Bay Brown
OR Tunics: Foundry 62B Night Sky, Vallejo 058/964 Field Blue, 059/900 French Mir. Blue, 060/903 Intermediate Blue on ¼ of the figures each to give some variety
Officer tunics: Foundry 40B Violet, 40C Violet Light (so they look richer than the above)
Bronze: beige undercoat, Vallejo 173/878 Old Gold;
Scabbards: Foundry 42B Bay Brown;
Linothorax lining: Foundry 37B Terracotta;
Grips/binding: Foundry 9B Boneyard;
Leather: Vallejo Game Color Beasty Brown;
Bronze armour binding: Foundry 19B Royal Purple;
Wood: Foundry 13B Spearshaft;
Iron: GW Chainmail;
Crests: Black, thinned with matt medium to make it translucent (obviating the need for highlighting!).
Some of the colours are consistent right across everything I do, some across a particular project, and some are kept 'special' to a particular 'nation' - those blues, for instance, will only be used on figures from Tarentum (and maybe other Greeks of Southern Italy) in this project - and they certainly won't ever get used on any Republican Romans.
AP QS Strong Tone. I use it straight from the pot, but one hint is to remember that it dries while it's open, and in storage - you need to keep adding thinner to keep the consistency the same.
-
Hi Phil,
Great stuff. I keep notes and mercifully use the Foundry system to...and quick shade ...so our paint styles are quite similar....you can see a few in this thread FYI.
http://agrabbagofgames.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/almoravid-army.html
Thanks very much for the colours you use...much appreciated. I'm going to save this thread...wonderful stuff. I really like your style of crisp, accurate painting and the dip.
Nice one.
;)
Happy W
-
see a few in this thread FYI.
Great stuff - I really like those. I've nearly started a 'Reconquista' project a couple of times, but keep being seduced by yet more Romans!
-
Phil
What colour is the White on the figures. Were these QS Strong or QS Dark dipped?
Cheers
Happy W
-
Brilliant as usual, Phil.
:-*
I shall give this a go when I get around to my Melniboneans.
It should work a treat as they have bronze armour.
Fingers crossed that it works half as well.
:D
-
What colour is the White on the figures. Were these QS Strong or QS Dark dipped?
The white is just the white primer - I'm lazy and don't repaint it. QS Strong.
-
Ok!
That's a good primer you have there...thanks.
Happy W
-
Very lovely work! I'm always impressed how you can apply the AP. 8) :-*
Do you shake and/or stir the ap before using it?
Christopher
-
Thank you! I shake the pot of 'dip' for a few moments, wait for it to settle for a minute or two, pop off the lid and paint it on the figures.
-
I see thank you. Once again lovely results as usual. 8)
Christopher
-
Those are some wonderful painted figures. I have some Victrix Romans to paint and haven't settled on a style yet. Given that I have over 200 plus cavalry, I might try your technique out to see the effect.
Do you think it will work equally well on plastic figures or are there some different steps I should be considering?
-
Thank you! I have used the exact same technique on Warlord's plastics, and it worked fine. Victrix's figures have slightly finer detail, but I think it should still work well.
-
I think I may need to re-title this thread 'Pyrrhic Victory' or something - rather than starting a seperate thread for each unit I paint, for this project (Pyrrhus in Italy), I think I should stick them all in the same one. So, without further ado, here are two more contributions (both Aventine Minis), painted in my usual dippy manner. First a unit of Tarentine Levy phalangites - assuming that Pyrrhus had begun to re-train and re-equip the Tarentine hoplites as phalangites:
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Ph6x5l.jpg)
And then a stand of senior Pyrrhic command:
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/PyrrhComs.jpg)
-
Lovely!
-
Splendid work on some fine figures.
Garry
-
Excellent work there Phil :-* :-*
cheers
James
-
Ooh, they are lovely Phil mate :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
And then a stand of senior Pyrrhic command
And these are beyond lovely!! :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
Keep up the (soul destroying ;) :) ) work mate :)
Darrell.
-
Incredible work - I really wish I hadn't seen these! :-*
-
Again they look just wonderful! :-* I'm curious how you keep your whites so clean using AP. I plan on doing the Punic Wars using Victrix's plastics and I'll use AP for those. I'll try and resist adding highlights and see if I'm happy with the results.
Christopher
-
Thanks folks!
If the pot of dip is fairly new, and 'thin enough' it doesn't stain the highlights very much. I add a few drops of thinner every now and then, but inevitably it does get thicker with time… If I think it's going to stain, then I 'drybrush' white highlights with a brush dampened with thinners, as the 'dip' is going tacky - that lifts it off the highlights.
-
Interesting. Thank you. :)
I assume you take dip out the can and add it to cup or something and then add a bit of thinner to that to get the thinner to ap?
Looking at your figures it appears you employ quite a bit of thinner dry brushing as they are very clean for AP figures?
Would it be fair to say the process is something like:
Block paint colours
Brush on thinned AP
re-apply to areas not enough defined (eyes,definitions etc.)
lightly Dry brush with thinner where needed
Add decals
Apply matt coat
Christopher
-
Interesting. Thank you. :)
I assume you take dip out the can and add it to cup or something and then add a bit of thinner to that to get the thinner to ap?
Looking at your figures it appears you employ quite a bit of thinner dry brushing as they are very clean for AP figures?
No. I don't. It is very simple.
Would it be fair to say the process is something like:
Prime white.
Block paint colours
Yes.
Brush on thinned AP
I only thin it if it's gone 'gloopy' - and I simply add thinner to the can.
re-apply to areas not enough defined (eyes,definitions etc.)
Hardly ever - only if I miss somewhere. I'm quite good at knowing how much to apply to get the effect (I've done thousands of figures with it now)… Practice makes perfect and all that.
lightly Dry brush with thinner where needed
Only on areas which are white/very light, and even then, only if I think they look as though they're staining significantly.
Add decals
Apply matt coat
Yes. decals go onto areas which are pure white - no dip - and which have been gloss varnished.
The whole point is to keep the proces simple, otherwise it gets slow and you might as well go back to three colour layering. It's about practice and judgement - knowing what 'shortcuts' you can get away with and not adversely affect the outcome, so as to keep it quick… Then you can paint big armies in a reasonable time frame.
-
Prime white.
Ooops, yep forgot that part.
Hardly ever - only if I miss somewhere. I'm quite good at knowing how much to apply to get the effect (I've done thousands of figures with it now)… Practice makes perfect and all that.
Yes, I suppose that's the most important factor of all. :)
Yes. decals go onto areas which are pure white - no dip - and which have been gloss varnished.
Do you mean you gloss varnish the white surface or the decal before later adding the matt?
The whole point is to keep the proces simple, otherwise it gets slow and you might as well go back to three colour layering. It's about practice and judgement - knowing what 'shortcuts' you can get away with and not adversely affect the outcome, so as to keep it quick… Then you can paint big armies in a reasonable time frame.
Exactly that's where I'm trying to get, but every time I use the dip I end up adding highlights which in turn frustrates me as it adds too much time defeating the whole process. >:( I generally prefer metal, but I think I'll invest in some Victrix plastics so I can acquire the practice and judgement at a reasonable cost.
Christopher
-
Do you mean you gloss varnish the white surface or the decal before later adding the matt?
I gloss the white surface (usually two coats of Future/Klear floor polish), so as to give the decal the best possible surface to adhere to. I usually put a couple of coats over the top once the decal is dry too - Klear dries very quickly, and it adds another layer of protection for the (delicate) decal. Matt varnish comes right at the end, just before I flock the bases.
Exactly that's where I'm trying to get, but every time I use the dip I end up adding highlights which in turn frustrates me as it adds too much time defeating the whole process. >:( I generally prefer metal, but I think I'll invest in some Victrix plastics so I can acquire the practice and judgement at a reasonable cost.
The only colours I ever highlight are ones which are darker than the 'dip' - and I add those highlights before I do the 'dip'. That's the only way to get any shading/highlights on really dark colours. Because it's only one part of a figure, it doesn't take long to do.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Kingdom%20of%20Heaven/SaracenMTS.jpg)
I never put 'dip' over shield or banner transfers - I like them to stand out and look bright.
A lot of the 'psychology' of using the 'dip' is about believing it'll work, in the face of apparent 'evidence' that it won't. The figures always look awful until that final matt coat! You just have to believe that they will look okay in the end (and not 'give in' and add highlights). The first figure I painted with the 'dip' very nearly went in the bin once I saw how hideous it looked. But I persevered, and matt varnished it - the transformation shocked me - and it still surprises me a little.
And you have to 'forget' the idea that this is about painting figures. It's about painting units for use on the tabletop - and the techniques are done with that in mind. I don't post close-ups of my figures because they don't look that good close up… But 'en masse' on the tabletop, in nice-sized units, they look awesome - and you can easily turn out a unit most weeks - so good-sized, good-looking, armies don't take long.
-
One other thing… If I've got to paint a horse which is white, or a lot of figures in predominantly white clothing, I just use 'Soft Tone'. It looks good on white and you don't have to mess around with thinner, lifting 'dip' off highlights and all that jazz. I have, sometimes, even used two different shades of 'dip' on the same figure… It slows things down a bit, but not as much as doing three-layer shading!
-
I've read your articles in WSS and so have an idea of what you do, but these little extra hints really do help. :)
I'm a three tone painter and have mastered the technique to a point I'm very happy with the results,but......not happy with the time it takes. I'm not getting any younger with 50 just a few years away with so many periods I want to do, but realistically know this will never happen if I continue to paint everything the way I do. Not to mention eyes not what they used to be. If I just did skirmish games this would not be a problem, but I actually prefer armies and so something has to give. Some projects will just have to get done using AP the way it's intended in order to realize some of my goals. Hopefully I'll master the technique enough with time in vs results that leave me feeling content. Thank you very much for your help as I'll put it to good use! :)
Christopher
-
It was your Army Painter dipping that convinced me to do my Naps. Great work, Dr. Phil!
(http://images.forbes.com/media/lists/53/2006/1VDD.jpg)
-
On the back of your explanation I shall be trying out your techniques on my Victrix Romans and Italians later in the year. Keep up the good work.
-
Etruscan Cavalry - Roman allies…
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Etruscav1s.jpg)
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Etruscav2.jpg)
There's a 'close up' of sorts on my blog: http://www.philhendry.me.uk/Phil_Wargaming_Website/my_blog/etruscan-cavalry.html (http://www.philhendry.me.uk/Phil_Wargaming_Website/my_blog/etruscan-cavalry.html)
-
Another great looking unit Phil!
-
Hello,
Nice painting and great project !!!
Nikko
-
Thanks lads!
-
Here's a photo of this week's phalanx unit:
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Phalanx2s.jpg)
More photos tomorrow, possibly - the 'complete' Tarentine contingent, and the phalanx so far.
Next unit to be painted, probably, an Epirote phalanx unit.
-
What a fine looking phalanx. Really looking forward to how this army 'fills' out. Quite inspirational. I hope mine turn out at least half as good as these.
Garry
-
Out of curiosity, how many hours does it take you to whip out these wonderful units?
-
They look excellent! :-*
Christopher
-
Thanks lads!
-
Here is my latest phalanx unit - some Epirotes - i.e. blokes from Pyrrhus' kingdom on the western shore of the Greek mainland.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Pyrrhic1s.jpg)
Shield transfers kindly resized by Steve @ LBMS to fit Aventine's rimless shield.
-
Beautiful work.
-
Those are lovely! :-*
Your putting together a gorgeous army!
-
Outstanding! This army will look stunning on the table! :-*
Christopher
-
Thank you. I'm pleased with the way it's coming along.
-
Splendid work :-* :-*
Do we get a group shot yet?
cheers
James
-
Absolutely stunning mate :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
Shield transfers kindly resized by Steve @ LBMS to fit Aventine's rimless shield.
He's a very accommodating bloke that Steve fella ;) :)
Darrell.
-
Thank you gents!
-
Fantastic, a finely finished ensemble indeed.
-
Archers for my Pyrrhic force. Not my best ever, but they'll do.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Slinger.jpg)
-
They do very nicely indeed.
-
Never seen so effective and beautifull dippings...
Very cool stuff.
The phalanx is simply amazing... :-*
Thanx for sharing,
Don
-
Thank you!
-
Republican Roman Cavalry. Actually, just realised that I need 16, not 12. D'Oh! Oh well, have to get another four at some point.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/RomCavs.jpg)
-
More great stuff from the dip meister :)
-
Lovely!
Back in my day we didn't have such lovely shield transfers. If I was 10 years younger I would consider painting another ancient army, but I think I'll just sit back and admire yours!
-
(https://theeternalloop.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/dr-phil-mcgraw.jpg)
-
And yet more phalangites…
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/philhendry/Pyrrhic%20War/Phalangites.jpg)
which I managed to finish despite having 'ooh shiney'-itis regarding the Beyond the Gates of Antares boxed set. What a hero!!!
-
Great painting work, really clean and effective. You are a source of inspiration for all of us!
In fact, after a re-reading of your rulebook, I´m now awaiting some Parthians from Aventine Miniatures...
-
Stunning work and a great Inspiration for my 20 mm plastics of the same period I just paint
-
The army looks good Phil, but will they fight?
Hammer the flanks with your cavalry and let the big grey stompy things do their work ! Your Phalanx needs to hold until they have!
Can't wait to see the all in battle array.
-
Phantastic Pyrrhic phalangites, Phil! Crisp and clean and colorful, as always! :-*
Cheers,
Scott
-
Superb, but they didn't keep you on the straight and narrow I see :)
-
:D
-
really nice figures !!!!!!
-
This topic deserves to be jump started.
Pyrrhus asks: Please no close ups! :)