Psyber's Super-Duper Dungeon (Warhammer Quest)

[Pattus Magnus]

If my experience is any indication, we stuck them together with cheap crazy glue, didn’t bother to fill an gaps (because I had no idea miliput existed), painted them with enamels, and hoped (usually futilely) that the parts would stay together…

I quickly started buying 1-piece models whenever I could and proxied them for the multi-part kits. They usually weren’t as dynamic, but they didn’t fall apart in a stiff breeze either.

[Dean]

Oh aye, them was the days 

[psyberwyche]

If my experience is any indication, we stuck them together with cheap crazy glue, didn’t bother to fill an gaps (because I had no idea milliput existed), painted them with enamels, and hoped (usually futilely) that the parts would stay together…

When I was 15-ish, way back when, and I had a few random Rogue Trader minis and Warhammer 4th edition monsters, the only hobby tool I had was a Stanley knife, and I filled gaps with either blu-tack and superglue, or a blob of PVA glue that I allowed to partly set. Somehow we managed!

[Elbows]

My younger friends always ask why I like metals...but I have to explain "I like single piece metal miniatures...".  Multi-part metals can pound sand. 

(remembers War Walkers and Eldar Dreadnoughts at age 12 before I had/knew tools to pin)

[psyberwyche]

I mentioned the other day that I'm putting together custom board sections and having a load of cards printed. Well, work is progressing quickly now. I have over 30 new board sections already, and I'm really happy with how they've turned out.



I sourced the scans from all over the interwebs, but the real gems for me were the tiles from Eastern Empire (https://www.eastern-empire.com/warhammer-quest-tiles/), plus the scans from the (sadly now defunct) Beyond the Grey Mountains site. I had all these printed onto A0 posters, which was surprisingly cheap. Then my process is as follows:

• Stick the tiles to 1500-micron (1.5mm thick) mount board, using a glue stick (like the stuff you use in school). This is important: regular glue will warp the card and bubble the paper, so the glue stick is essential. Also, most YouTube vids and websites recommend 2mm thick card. Don't do this! If you're using the original plastic WHQ doors, the card will be too thick to slot under them.
• Trim with a safety ruler and box cutter. This process eats through blades, so a box cutter (those disposable things with the snap-off blades) is the most economical way to do this, with the cleanest cuts. I started with my usual hobby scalpel, and was getting through a new blade every tile!
• If there are any minor wrinkles around the edges, gently buff these out with 120-grit sandpaper, in downward strokes. Then go around the edges with a black marker to tidy these up.
• Cover the whole thing in sticky-back plastic film. I use one of those foam-edged film applicators to help here, to really rub down on the film and get out as many air bubbles as possible. If you don't do this, the film won't be quite as transparent as it should be, and there's no way to go back and fix this once it's fully stuck.

So there you go - you can have the benefit of my mistakes 





Funniest part of this project for me. Years ago I had the original "Pits and Traps" expansion, which was essentially three pieces of card and a 4-page, A4 booklet. I scanned it all, then listed the original (used) on ebay for a £10 starting price. Some crazy guy bought it for over £100 (and these days they go for even more  ). But now, with the power of paper-crafting, I have a set that looks almost identical to the original, for less than a tenner...



That Eastern Empire site has a full set of Advanced Heroquest boards, resized and retouched for WHQ. I've ordered a set of dungeon cards to go along with it, so I can run it either as a self-contained quest, or mix a few of the tiles into the regular game.