Gaming Table Construction?

[ZeroTwentythree]

I've been thinking about building a new gaming table. (Don't currently have one.) I had some ideas for building one with a simple, flat textured & painted surface, with all terrain being "add-on" pieces. But I have just reconsidered the idea of building a frame that will contain removable terrain tiles made with 24"x24"x1" insulation foam. The frame would fit onto the top an existing 30"x72" folding table, or possibly that table plus a second one, with rails to prevent it from sliding around. The table should be semi-portable, so I can put it away when not in use or when I need the space for other things. So I'm trying to keep it light.

I am thinking about a smaller table to start with -- 4'x6' -- but possibly doing a larger one later on. Or I could just go big to start with, but I need to really work on making enough room at home first. Other sizes I could consider, with various pros & cons are: 4x8, 5x6, 5x8 6x6, 6x8. I'm not certain the 6x8 is currently practical, and the two 5' wide variants throw off the 2x2 tile module and/or mean non-playable space (which could still be used for dice, casualties, etc.!) I could live with a 4x6, but that is really the smallest size I can deal with, and I've always preferred at least 4x8.

Rough idea looks like:



That is drawn up as a 48" x 72" gaming surface, to fit on a single folding table. The outside would be 1x4 select boards, the inner pieces would be 1x4 and 1x3 or 1x2. The long rails on below are spaced 30" apart, so they would keep it from sliding around on top of the folding table.


My initial concerns are whether the single table will be stable enough, and whether it's dangerous having unsupported areas of 1" insulation foam (if someone leans on it with enough weight, they would presumably put their arm right through it.)

I could put a layer of hardboard down before putting in the tiles. This should give additional support, and I could leave it as a removable piece. Might be able to eliminate the three smaller cross-supports in that case, too.

I'm fairly certain that 1x boards will be good enough. Maybe someone with more practical woodworking knowledge/skills can advise on that? Also... is this going to be a pain in the ass to assemble in a way that the final product is fairly level & square? I've got some concerns about that, given my limited hands-on experience.

What if the interior was built with vertically oriented 2x4s instead, leave out the smaller cross-boards, and go ahead with the above mentioned hardboard  "underlayment." The outer faces could still be finished with 1x4 or 1x6 boards after the interior is built. Would that be easier?

[ZeroTwentythree]

Shortly after posting, I saw the below topic, which seems like a good idea, though probably even more work. I *did* search through the forum for other ideas, but I used "table" as my search term, so I missed this at first. Good thing I found it afterward! 

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=78108.0

If I did 2x4 sections like this (framed board), I wonder if I could skip the "containing" frame I had planned and just work out a way to keep the sections together when laid out flat. Some sort of mechanical fasteners? I would want to keep them from interfering with the ability to rotate & reconfigure the layout of the various sections. Maybe just a layer of non-skid rubber (as used under small rugs, etc.) between the table top and the gaming boards would be enough?

[jmilesr01]

There are several ways to keep the boards together

(1) if it's just 4x6 you could get a band clamp - it's like one of those straps used to tie cargo down

(2) drill holes at a set distance from the corners and use pegs to hold the board in place - that's likely the route I'm going (those were my boards in the link you referenced).  I was planning on using magnets but couldn't figure out the polarity issues

[ZeroTwentythree]

(1) if it's just 4x6 you could get a band clamp

Oh, wait, I see... cLamp. I was scared for a minute.

I think I like peg idea, and it works in both directions. A small jig should make it easy & accurate, I would imagine. The panels like the ones you built would obviously be far more durable than the foam. The extra time building the initial panels would be canceled out by not having to build the containing frame that I had planned for the insulation panels.

My one hang-up on this, however, is rivers and other features that I would like to cut into the foam. It looks like you solved that by building those types of panels upside-down, with the plywood sheeting on the bottom, and the framing on top -- is that correct?

[Drachenklinge]

take care, that the modular tiles are not to tight, cause that might be a problem when changing them. Either to grab them at all or to get them out.

[ZeroTwentythree]

If I go with the first design, my plan was to make the containing frame 1/4" larger than the tiles in both directions. After the tiles would be set into the frame, I would insert a shim along two sides to keep them from moving around. Then when it was time to remove the tiles, I would remove the shim so the tiles would have a little room to move again. I hadn't decided what to use for a shim/wedge, but I was thinking about a soft material, like furniture foam of the stuff they use in swimming pool floats ("pool noodles") in order to avoid damaging the tiles.


I'm now reconsidering the folding table, and thinking about a couple of cabinets on casters.

Haha. I'll never build this table -- I'll just keep switching ideas.

[jmilesr01]

The frames I build for my terrain sections are based on a 1/4 luan plywood or marine grade plywood (really whatever I have in my shop) framed by 1x2 lumber, which allows  for 1.5 inches of poly styrene foam.  For rivers, I cut openings at the center of each side (3" wide) and run a 3" x 1/2 inch wide strip of plywood scrap to support the river and frame itself



I also went through a lot of different table designs before settling on one.  One thing I did learn is that the storage options under the table are a very important feature.  The table itself is a bit over engineered as it's core frame is a box grid of 4x4 cedar beams that were left over from a home improvement project.



One idea for pegs I've used before are 3/8 inch wide lag bolts.  The connecting holes are all drilled in 1 ft from a corner and then a 3/8 inch bolt is used to tie the boards together. 



The bolts work fine but take a while to set up so for my current project I'm trying simple pegs

[Jackmunchkin]

Made mine as well (sorry blog is in French) :

https://oldschoolnostalgia.wordpress.com/2015/05/11/table-de-jeu-instructions-de-fabrication/

[jmilesr01]

wow - great work on the table - I really like how the drawers came out

well done!

[Jackmunchkin]

Thanks, I'm not done yet with it but quite happy with the result. I like the fact that you have much space below yours but mine is to be seated around, we need space for knees. But I still managed to have 12 drawers below as well ! Main purpose is RPG, though we'll probably have skirmish or wargames as well.

[ZeroTwentythree]

Thank you for the photos, links, and advice.

I just thought of yet another option for a pre-built base for the table top -- a pair of flush, hollow core interior doors. Lightweight, durable, fairly inexpensive, and already assembled. I can either put tiles on top of that, or I can just texture & paint it for a flat table to start with. (Or both.)

Standard door sizes are 80" tall, and it's usually easy to find widths in even numbers between 24" and 36". So a pair would get me between 48" and 72" wide table by 80" long.

If nothing else, this may be an easy, temporary terrain board option.

[jmilesr01]

That's a really effective solution - it all depends on if you like doing woodworking and have got the proper tools to do the job both effectively and safely. 

The hardest thing for me is moving from the "conceptual / paper generating phase" to the "tactile - sawdust creating one"!

[ZeroTwentythree]

I'm willing to put time into working on it, and have many of the tools I would need. But I don't have as much time or experience as I'd like. So I decided to go with the easy option. This has several benefits: I will get a decent gaming surface in play pretty quickly, and everything can be "upgraded" in phases. So before I started overthinking, I picked up the minimal basics while I was running some errands today: one more set of shelves and two doors. Next step will be to texture and paint them. I've already got the glue & sand from a previous project.

Here's a couple of pics of them in place. Please excuse the mess. I'm still in the process of cleaning, unpacking, setting up & organizing the attic. My painting/sculpting table off in the opposite corner, on the left side of the second photo.

[Jackmunchkin]

More steps on mine, including a PDF :

https://oldschoolnostalgia.wordpress.com/2015/05/11/table-de-jeu-instructions-de-fabrication/

[ZeroTwentythree]

Thanks for the link!



I just made the two biggest sanding blocks you've ever seen. All I need is a few helpers and I'm ready to file down stuff like... cars and small buildings. Or give kaiju manicures.



Sand and glue applied. Next step is vacuuming the floors. Then painting. Had a small can of paint tinted to match the stuff I use on my bases. Rather than flock the green/grassy areas, I'm going to paint those this time. Actual flock will be a later "upgrade," possibly not even used on these. I may only do that if/when I move on to the modular terrain tiles I mentioned. I'm thinking about using filler & primer to smooth the opposite sides of these doors/tables and painting them glossy blue. Then I can use that side as water if/when I make terrain tiles, or I can also use it for some Man o' War, if I can convince someone to play!