Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Adventures in the Far East => Topic started by: Mr. White on July 07, 2023, 09:45:14 PM
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After having the ruleset and models around for a few years (as well as peppering you lot with questions), I've finally started to dig into my Ronin project.
When starting any project, I like to begin with the terrain for two reasons...the terrain can provide the backdrop to any models I take photos of, but most importantly, when minis are painted they can go straight into a game. The work of putting together the table is already done.
So, here's my remote rural village.
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/051b1fcb-f04f-40df-b4e5-a2a3c47f1e83.jpeg)
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/87ae64c2-8a0e-4418-83b5-cc505c6e01a5.jpeg)
And it all fits neatly in a single 4L RUB.
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/09456d97-5f69-4d85-aac5-c03ba56e6c9f.jpeg)
Boring details on the assembly and motivation behind this village have been hung up at the blog: https://wyrdstonesandtacklezones.com/2023/07/07/ronin-mountainside-village/
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A fun start; interested to see where this goes! By the by, have you checked out En Garde! as well? Having had a go at both I've been moving towards En Garde and redoing the Ronin army lists for it because I think it solves a couple of issues I have with Ronin, but I know mileage varies on this.
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I actually have yet to play a game of Ronin, but that changes in two weeks.
I’ve also got the En Garde book, as I understood it to be a refinement on Ronin, but haven’t looked into it too much.
Do you have any rules suggestions for our first Ronin match? Should we play rules as written or fold in some En Garde right away?
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Very nice work: looking forward to seeing this project develop.
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Very nice!
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Great stuff :)
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I actually have yet to play a game of Ronin, but that changes in two weeks.
I’ve also got the En Garde book, as I understood it to be a refinement on Ronin, but haven’t looked into it too much.
Do you have any rules suggestions for our first Ronin match? Should we play rules as written or fold in some En Garde right away?
Whoops! Meant to check back in sooner. I think Ronin plays fine as-is, but that it does really make archery very powerful, which En Garde mitigates by a) reducing all models' Shoot values by 1, and b) folding the Action Phase into the Move Phase, so that you can only shoot once per turn. But if you're playing more armoured factions (unlike me because I like Koryu) it shouldn't make too much difference. What I would recommend, however, is to make sure you have a look through the errata (attached). There are a couple of very significant rules clarifications, and some missing bonuses to the nodachi and tetsubo which otherwise make them seem a) identical and b) useless.
The reason I'm not wholeheartedly saying you should jump straight to En Garde is that it takes a lot of work to convert the army lists over, because you need to recalculate the stats and points values. I've been slowly working on a set of army lists, plus things for bridging gaps in terms of where rules differ; I'll post this when I have it finished. (For instance, En Garde doesn't give a penalty for fighting on horseback, only for shooting, but this penalty makes sense in Ronin because mounted combat was genuinely a more specialised skill in Japan compared to riding into battle and fighting on foot. Also, Ronin plays into the persistent myth that firearms were less accurate than bows, which they absolutely weren't, so I will also be inserting my pro-gunpowder bias a bit.)
The thing I'd really like to stress is that you and your opponent(s) should remind each other that the defender declares whether they are Enhancing their defence before the attacker declares if they are Enhancing their attack. It's not just that it's a bit of sequence, it's also an important reminder that you don't actually have to just bash against Enhanced defences with Enhanced attacks. If you have an advantage in counters and you think that you have good odds of not being killed by the enemy model, it is preferable to essentially force your opponent to use up their Defence counters, and then attack once they are out. Players really underrate how vital Defence counters are.
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Brilliant village. It
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Thanks, all, for the generous comments.
@EnclavedMicrostate - thanks for the FAQ inclusion. I've read around a bit online and identified what some reviewers thought were ambiguities and have poured through both Ronin and En Garde to be sure I understand those points. I think I have a good handle on the game, but we'll find out in a few weeks when we get our first games in. The plan is to go with core Ronin as mush as possible (that is not En Garde enhancements - besides clarity)
However, we _might_ hire a few mythological creatures as swords for hire after we have a few games under our belt. So, I went ahead and painted up a few before tackling my buntai.
The creature hunting Yamabushi
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/52e79ea4-3d4f-44c0-98fa-cb31b4b59beb.jpeg)
Oni and Amanojakus
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/6dca5173-760b-4948-b5fa-642aee34015f.jpeg)
Kappa
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/734e4a6b-ca3d-4306-b89e-c0bdd91ea289.jpeg)
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/df3dfc30-fdbf-4980-8f16-20fc19afc20d.jpeg)
Here's a small blog post about 'em: https://wyrdstonesandtacklezones.com/2023/07/11/ronin-mythological-creatures/
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Nice 8)
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Nice yokai
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Thanks, both!
For those that have played Ronin...about how many points do you go for? I think I'm trying to settle in the 100-150pt range. I'm not trying to get into Lion Rampant sized games here, but hoping this title is great for small scale skirmishes.
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It depends a bit on the Buntai, but I find 200pts to be a perfectly manageable size where you can complete a standard scenario within 3 hours even if you have players unfamiliar with the rules. 100-150 is completely fine, though, and for some of the higher-quality, lower-quantity factions like Bushi or Ming, it can push you to make some interesting choices of composition when you can only bring so many models.
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Very nice painting indeed. Charlemagne and I noted the difficulty many characters have in attacking an Oni (due to the fear it inspires) - thus it is a good idea to have at least a Sohei Monk hired into a Buntai facing mythological enemies (Sohei are immune to fear).
Also, we found that archery is overrated against armored foes - odds of getting a wound are small. However it is very effective against the unarmored or lightly armored.
One thing we do take from En Garde is the rule regarding Stunned (three Stuns transform into a Light Wound).
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Very nice painting indeed. Charlemagne and I noted the difficulty many characters have in attacking an Oni (due to the fear it inspires) - thus it is a good idea to have at least a Sohei Monk hired into a Buntai facing mythological enemies (Sohei are immune to fear).
Also, we found that archery is overrated against armored foes - odds of getting a wound are small. However it is very effective against the unarmored or lightly armored.
One thing we do take from En Garde is the rule regarding Stunned (three Stuns transform into a Light Wound).
Thanks for the tips. We’ll keep the three stuns = light wound option in mind.
Regarding Fearless and Oni, Fearless will enable a model to enforce the results of morale and an Oni’s Terrifying will increase the likelihood of a buntai shifting to wavering or routing. Is that right? However, a fearless model will still need to make a test against their rank as the Oni also has Formidable.
Am I following the attributes correctly?
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Thanks for the tips. We’ll keep the three stuns = light wound option in mind.
Regarding Fearless and Oni, Fearless will enable a model to enforce the results of morale and an Oni’s Terrifying will increase the likelihood of a buntai shifting to wavering or routing. Is that right? However, a fearless model will still need to make a test against their rank as the Oni also has Formidable.
Am I following the attributes correctly?
That is correct, though remember also that if you have any models with the Commander attribute, that will counteract the morale penalty from the presence of a Terrifying model.
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Painted up my Bandit Buntai
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/a0da4ae9-1e07-462d-bd4a-2a861184b13a.jpeg)
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/9c3b6731-28c6-4ea1-bdd2-6c74f31e98e3.jpeg)
Above are Northstar and Bad Squiddo models that make up the Samurai leaders of the Buntai. These will be the Leader (probably the model with the sword raised, or maybe the lady holding the vial). The two on the ends will make great second-in-command, Gashiras.
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/9463f174-761e-417a-a785-5aa95c082e75.jpeg)
The rest of the buntai are made up of Bandits and Peasants. All of the above are from Northstar’s Ronin line.
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2023/07/0833079f-f8e1-4d43-bb93-4eea156cbdc7.jpeg)
To be honest, this group of models may be one I struggled with more than any other models I’ve pained. It was a new skin-tone for me to attempt and I originally had too much contrast so had to do a lot of repainting. The end result looks ok, but I spent too much time looking at them, all I see are errors. I do like the overall color scheme and look of the buntai, so am looking forward to getting some distance between when I painted them and just look to have fun playing them.
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The paint job on these looks really dramatic: I like it.
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Nice looking band of villains.
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They look fine to me 8)
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Bold colour choice but it's come out looking quite snazzy!
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Beautiful work
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Thanks, all, for the words of praise.
This lot does look a bit more unified like a "gang" or "army" as opposed to a ragtag group of bandits is mismatched clothing, but I'm ok with that.
They're going to get their first few raids in this weekend where they'll lock up against my buddy's Sohei. They'll probably strike during a religious ceremony, perhaps hunt some kappa shells, maybe have a few duels against rivals... general banditry in the surrounding hills of Kyoto.
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Interesting looking band of rapscallions. I usually play the Bandit Buntai (see Charlemagne's thread: Ronin - First Foray into Wargaming). Charlemagne painted his bandits with blue and red to tie them together (but different elements on each in those colors). We found that going by the "approved" list is very limiting for the Bandits. We allow a Senior Ronin (generally the chap with the raised nodachi) to help even it up (and use the revised nodachi rules Osprey published in their errata). The naginata arming many of the Sohei is a "super weapon," and the Sohei have generally higher-ranked models than the bandits. The Bandit leader, though in heavy armor, isn't much of a better fighter than ordinary Sohei.
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I wonder also if there's benefit to letting Bandits hire a Ninja, given that the Kenshin Ryu campaign supplement has them doing exactly that.
A subtle and I suspect unintended feature of Bandits is that their Rank 2 models have Rank 3 stats, which contributes to their having a relatively high points-to-Rank ratio. I don't know how that shakes out in practice against 'heavier' factions like Bushi or Ikkō, but against Koryu it does mean the latter cannot afford remotely the same proportion of losses.s
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Played my first three games of Ronin last weekend. Bandits vs Sohei. The pair split the games 1-1 at 100pts. The Sohei won the Skirmish scenario, but the bandits were able to slaughter all four villagers in Defend the Village. Well… more like Defend the Mythical as we used kappa around a home pond as villagers. Didn’t have any villager models painted yet. :/
Sohei routed the bandits at 200pts. The Sohei Grandmaster was just too much. As our first games, we didn’t do any tweaks to the game besides three stuns equal a light wound.
I did put together some “player kits” for the occasion.
Fun games and looking forward to more!
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Great stuff! What were the three different colours of stones for?
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Here's what as in the kit:
* color marbled d6s to roll for actions
* black and white d6s for the combat pool. we just used d6s instead of chits/tokens so you could just add the black or white die to your others when you wanted to enhance.
* frosted stones in three colors to track wounds: white = stun, black = light wound, red = grievous wound, model lying on the ground = critical
* bag to hold all these grubbins
* bottles of Kirin to assist with tactics
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Ahh, I see. The dice were a clever way of doing it that I hadn't considered! I have black and white stones that I use as attack/defence counters, hence my (mistaken) assumption you were doing the same and thus wondering about the red.
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Glad you enjoyed the game - Ronin is a fun set of rules. As you noted, a Sohei Grandmaster is a difficult nut for a Bandit Buntai to crack. In your next game, try letting the Bandits hire a Senior Ronin (which is not on the "official" Osprey list for a Bandit Buntai) instead of a Ronin. That evens things up.
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Lovely paint Jobs!
Grandmasters are terrifying but nothing a high rolling Teppo cant solve ;)
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Lovely paint Jobs!
Grandmasters are terrifying but nothing a high rolling Teppo cant solve ;)
Ha! yeah. In game 2, where the bandits won, I had two Gashiras (Rank 2) with teppos. In the last game, I moved those down to the Rank 1 Bandits. The bandits didn't shoot so well...
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Anyone have a better skin color than what I’m using for my bandits? It’s Vallejo Sunny Skintone but is maybe a bit more deeper yellow than I’d prefer.
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I will admit that in one of our games Charlemagne's Grandmaster was taken down by my Bandit Gashira with teppo and the appropriate jitsu (but note that you still need a good dice roll - otherwise you either miss or just stun him, and it takes two turns standing still to reload a teppo).
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Anyone have a better skin color than what I’m using for my bandits? It’s Vallejo Sunny Skintone but is maybe a bit more deeper yellow than I’d prefer.
I use a 50/50 mix of Vallejo Flat Flesh and Dark Flesh, which also makes doing shading a little easier if I feel like doing it for character figures. On ones with a lot of exposed skin, I use Army Painter's Flesh Wash to save myself some trouble.
I will admit that in one of our games Charlemagne's Grandmaster was taken down by my Bandit Gashira with teppo and the appropriate jitsu (but note that you still need a good dice roll - otherwise you either miss or just stun him, and it takes two turns standing still to reload a teppo).
Are you sure it's two? Per my reading of the rules, it only takes one action to reload a teppo, but the model has to have stood still that turn. That being said we may have had different ways of counting turns of inaction.
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Your right, one turn of inaction (I didn't have Ronin in front of me when I typed the reply). That said, there is one turn after having fired that your Teppo holder is just standing there reloading (whereas the archer can fire every turn, or even twice a turn if willing to take the reduction in chances to hit - although unlikely to do damage to well-armored men). And the odds for the Teppo man hitting increase if he is close to his target (which also increases the risk to him, if he misses, of a counterattack).
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Really nice! How did you paint the huts, they look almost bang on for the feudal recreations in the Hokkaido historic village!
Plus how did you do your skin tones, mine oriental skin tone currently makes me minis look like they have jaundice?
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Thanks!
For the buildings, I used skeleton horde contrast with a bleached bone dry brush. The walls were wyldwood contrast with sylvaneth bark drybrush.
For my skintone, I used vallejo Sunny Skintone with a light sepia contrast in parts. i'm not 100% happy with my skin here to be honest and have been considering repainting. it looks to... "golden" yellow, I guess? It's too rich and doesn't look natural. They look like yellow muppets to me. Oof. But, i might just leave them as is and try something else on the next buntai. i dunno. my opponent thought they looked good, but if you look at the last action shot on the other page...my bandits verse his sohei on the bridge... mine look too yellow. :?
But that scenario happened later in the evening and the dining room overhead light was on and it has a slight warm golden tint to it, so maybe that didn't help?
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Finally got around to painting up my second buntai… The Koryu.
I don’t have the talent for ordinate robe designs, so opted for muted browns, greys, and blues as inspired by the 13 Assassins.
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Nice work.
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They work well :)
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Thanks, both!
There area actually a few different shades of brown used. Kinda hard to tell in these photos. Either way, I like how the group of Koryu look amongst the Mountain Village buildings. I need to pick up some more of those this year.
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I’ll be here :)
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(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/9f91d09e-27db-4f48-afb6-22dac61fba56.jpeg)
Above are eight Perry Miniatures villagers used for scenarios in Osprey’s Ronin. Despite my hesitation, I attempted an easy pattern on one of the lady’s yukata based on Charlemange's easy process posted a while back: https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=126805.msg1603891#msg1603891 (https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=126805.msg1603891#msg1603891).
Even then, it didn’t come out great, but looks good enough on the table. As usual, looking at one of these posted photos…several fixable errors jump out at me. My next paint session is going to involve a little cleanup with this set. Still, they were easy to paint and fit my little village well. Easy enough I dove right into the next set...
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/840ccc09-876c-4c82-9964-df7c6927d324.jpeg)
Five Perry ninjas led by a Bac Ninh Shadow Warrior: https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=142586.0. There's a scenario in Ronin where one side faces six ninja. Looking at the rules in that scenario, plus the Ronin point build guide author Craig Woodfield has shared, this group can also be run as its own, individual Buntai.
Village life is like a calm pond...until the Ninja skip in a stone of chaos!
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/db0723d9-927e-4383-ba74-40c300705d41.jpeg)
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/6f817acc-9a70-4210-aece-c4f833febac3.jpeg)
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Great inspiration! Thanks for sharing!
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Nice painting.
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Very nice looking indeed!
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Thanks, all, for looking and the positive feedback!
The last of the mythological creatures for Ronin. L to R: Kitsune, Jorogumo, Tengu
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Superb! I love the skull-filled niches in the rocks too!
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Where are the buildings from, I'm wondering if I could get away with using them with 40mm figures
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I like your idea of painting the terrain before the minis and a great selection of terrain you have.
Your minis are great too and everything ties in together so well. Cracking job all round.
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Thanks for the kind words!
Yeah, getting terrain done first motivates me a little more to work on actual minis because they have somewhere to stand around and hang out while waiting for the others get their coat of paint. Doing terrain last feels kinda anti-climatic to me and I found I drug my feet. So, get the less exciting stuff done first and when models are painted their table is ready.
Speaking of terrain, I'm using the Mountain Village set form Oshiro: https://www.oshiromodels.co.uk/28mountainvillage
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(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/4191f659-656e-4fd7-a062-2f136317217d.jpeg)
The Rampant series from Osprey is another ruleset I’ve become enamored with in recent years. While painting Ronin models, I’ve kept an eye on what could be combined into a larger force so I could flex the same models between both rulesets. So, without further ado, here’s the 24point Dragon Rampant warband using three Ronin buntais and three mythological creatures, the Yami No Taiyo (or the Dark Sun). Starting with the Jorogumo and going clockwise:
- Lady Kage (Leader): Light Riders (Single Model Unit – 4pts)
- Shuten-Doji & the Amanojaku: Bellicose Foot (Reduced Model Unit – 4pts)
- Shadow Dancers: Scouts with Invisibility (5pts)
- Bandits of the Dark Sun: Light Foot with Mixed Weapons (5pts)
- Hypnotized Swordsmen: Elite Foot (6pts)
Even though Jorogumo don’t work with Bandits, officially, in Ronin, I painted them in similar colors knowing they were going to be her general foot troops in Dragon Rampant. Also, Jorogumo can lead Koryu in Ronin by entrancing them. Here, I’m using them hypnotized as her elite guard. The Oni, Amanojakuo, and Ninja…well they’re up for working in her employ for their own shadowy goals.
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Nice work again.
I like the ideas on scaling up to Dragon Rampant.
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Thanks!
I think their first opponent as a Dragon Warrior warband might be my friend's.... fantasy Greek DR warband. ha. I guess it'll be a "Deadliest Warrior the tabletop wargame" kinda-thing.
In the meantime, for Ronin proper, here's three Swords-for-Hire
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/c84e8c24-b466-46c6-b110-4cc0b1ec72c1.jpeg)
A pair of Ronin and a Shugyosha looking for work. Any of these models could be used as either a Ronin or Shugyosha, but in my mind while painting, the two on the left were Ronin and the Ryu-looking model on the far right is the Shugyuosha looking to test his skills against the greatest warriors of my dining room table. The center model with yari (or nagae-yari) is from Warring Clans, the other two are from Bac Ninh Miniatures.
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Anyone have a better skin color than what I’m using for my bandits? It’s Vallejo Sunny Skintone but is maybe a bit more deeper yellow than I’d prefer.
Hey! I'm a little late here. Only recently joined the forum (and rejoined the hobby). On the question of skin-tone, there is a fellow that paints on Youtube called Sonic Sledgehammer Studio and he's painted a couple samurai. He's says that with east Asian skin tones it isn't a matter of adding yellow, but rather subtracting red. Living in my town's Chinatown, I would tend to agree. Most people tend to have an olive, almost mediterranean complexion.
He uses Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0 Peachy Flesh on his samurai, which coincidentally, I've been using on my Republican Romans (mostly because it's the only flesh-tone that came in my starter set). I don't know if he posts here, but going by his tone he seems like he'd fit right in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZWch1Iq8Mc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZWch1Iq8Mc)
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The two outside ones look straight out of Seven Samurai. They look great!
Thanks!
I think their first opponent as a Dragon Warrior warband might be my friend's.... fantasy Greek DR warband. ha. I guess it'll be a "Deadliest Warrior the tabletop wargame" kinda-thing.
In the meantime, for Ronin proper, here's three Swords-for-Hire
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/c84e8c24-b466-46c6-b110-4cc0b1ec72c1.jpeg)
A pair of Ronin and a Shugyosha looking for work. Any of these models could be used as either a Ronin or Shugyosha, but in my mind while painting, the two on the left were Ronin and the Ryu-looking model on the far right is the Shugyuosha looking to test his skills against the greatest warriors of my dining room table. The center model with yari (or nagae-yari) is from Warring Clans, the other two are from Bac Ninh Miniatures.
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For my Japanese figures what I've generally gone for is a 50-50 mix of Vallejo Flat Flesh and Dark Flesh, and, if I'm doing individual fancier figures instead of whole units, either going over with a Dark Flesh-based wash or using it for lowlights, followed with drybrushed highlights in Flat Flesh, and finally just a general, but quite thin, black wash over the whole figure. If I'm doing up just a whole unit, then it's just the blended base colour followed by the wash.
That differs if it's a figure with quite a large area of skin, because that changes the skin from something that's a highlight on the model to something that needs a lot more texture unto itself; in those instances I use the same base colour but swap out the Dark Flesh with Army Painter Flesh Wash.
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Thanks, all, for the flesh tone tips!
For the last couple of models in the project (the Koryu and the Swords for Hire), I've been using AK Interactive's Radiant Flesh then doing a wash with Citadel's Seraphim Sepia wash, followed by a few highlights of Radiant Flesh again. The results are much better than the formula I used on the Bandits. Still quick though which is what I need.
I'm racing the clock to get all my minis done!
The two outside ones look straight out of Seven Samurai. They look great!
Thanks! I need to give that a re-watch. It's been over two decades.
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Not just one of the best samurai movies ever made, but one of the best movies ever made. Looking at the miniature company's website, the fellow on the left is, indeed, the "seventh" samurai.
Thanks! I need to give that a re-watch. It's been over two decades.
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Thanks!
I think their first opponent as a Dragon Warrior warband might be my friend's.... fantasy Greek DR warband. ha. I guess it'll be a "Deadliest Warrior the tabletop wargame" kinda-thing.
In the meantime, for Ronin proper, here's three Swords-for-Hire
(https://mikeyc222.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/c84e8c24-b466-46c6-b110-4cc0b1ec72c1.jpeg)
A pair of Ronin and a Shugyosha looking for work. Any of these models could be used as either a Ronin or Shugyosha, but in my mind while painting, the two on the left were Ronin and the Ryu-looking model on the far right is the Shugyuosha looking to test his skills against the greatest warriors of my dining room table. The center model with yari (or nagae-yari) is from Warring Clans, the other two are from Bac Ninh Miniatures.
Nice wotk with this Bac Ninh guys! ;)
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thanks! They were a pleasure to paint. :D
(https://wyrdstonesandtacklezones.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/d5b99674-07c1-424a-b356-abc8c640f53b.jpeg)
After the Bandits, the Koryu, and the Ninja, I’ve now got a fourth buntai… the Sohei. Usually, I prefer to create and employ my own colors for factions, so this may be the first time I’ve simply gone with the faction colors as presented in the rulebook’s samples. I kinda like the black and white Sohei model in one of the pictures in the Ronin rulebook, but my other three factions are in darker colors, so for these warrior monks, something colorful to contrast was ideal. The traditional orange and yellow work. I used AK colors with a Seraphim Sepia wash for shading. not a perfect shade, but works for me!
(https://wyrdstonesandtacklezones.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/87f49e71-fc77-47c7-bc2d-eb8e11f5dfe1.jpeg)
The local gamers I game with prefer games without measuring tape. They dig on Blood Bowl’s clear, square-spaced movement and Gaslands with its move templates. I found these 9″ marked, MDF katana measuring swords for Test of Honor, but as in Ronin a model moves six inches, or can run for three more, they work perfect for Ronin too and omit the need to get out measuring tape.
(https://wyrdstonesandtacklezones.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/70d721e1-48fc-459e-900e-717b38d5b15e.jpeg)
With the Sohei painted, my current collection of Ronin models is complete. There’s room in the Really Useful Box for some more Swords-for-Hire, maybe Mythological Creatures, or another Buntai. Unsure at the exactly what at the moment, but have several different things I’d like to add in the future. In the meantime, I’m pleased this project is done for now and am scheduling games in the coming weeks.
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This all looks great. I like the cohesive look of the Sohei. And those katana are... just brilliant.
If you don't mind me asking, what kind of magnetic bottom are you using for that plastic box? I've got some containers and just need 12"x12" metal to complete the magnetic storage. The big-box hardware store sells pre-cut squares of 26-gauge steel. And I'm just wondering what the other options are.
(https://wyrdstonesandtacklezones.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/70d721e1-48fc-459e-900e-717b38d5b15e.jpeg)
With the Sohei painted, my current collection of Ronin models is complete. There’s room in the Really Useful Box for some more Swords-for-Hire, maybe Mythological Creatures, or another Buntai. Unsure at the exactly what at the moment, but have several different things I’d like to add in the future. In the meantime, I’m pleased this project is done for now and am scheduling games in the coming weeks.
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Thanks for the comments!
For the magnetic base in the RUB, I use these: https://www.imagicfly.com/products/sheets-with-adhesive-8-x-10-inch-pack-of-15-flexible-sticky-magnet-sheet
They have an adhesive back, but I super glue them in anyway. My models use metal washers for bases so they stick pretty good. Not great but definitely good enough. I mean, they'll fall everywhere if I drop the RUB or get in a car wreck, but for general moving to and from the storage shelf and riding in the car to game locations, they magnetize perfectly.
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Ah interesting. I'm just getting back into the hobby after a long absence and, well, muddling through. My first project are some Republican Romans I put on plastic bases, so I've been pursuing the rare earth magnets route. I broke down and bought a square-foot of 26-gauge galvanized steel. Man, these little magnets are fiddly.
I must say your system looks much simpler and more elegant. And I'd imagine the washers give plastic miniatures heft and a low centre of gravity. I'll have to look into this for my next project.
Thanks for the comments!
For the magnetic base in the RUB, I use these: https://www.imagicfly.com/products/sheets-with-adhesive-8-x-10-inch-pack-of-15-flexible-sticky-magnet-sheet
They have an adhesive back, but I super glue them in anyway. My models use metal washers for bases so they stick pretty good. Not great but definitely good enough. I mean, they'll fall everywhere if I drop the RUB or get in a car wreck, but for general moving to and from the storage shelf and riding in the car to game locations, they magnetize perfectly.
-
Ah interesting. I'm just getting back into the hobby after a long absence and, well, muddling through. My first project are some Republican Romans I put on plastic bases, so I've been pursuing the rare earth magnets route. I broke down and bought a square-foot of 26-gauge galvanized steel. Man, these little magnets are fiddly.
I must say your system looks much simpler and more elegant. And I'd imagine the washers give plastic miniatures heft and a low centre of gravity. I'll have to look into this for my next project.
I don't follow online painting personalities, but a buddy did send me this video, and it's what I've based mine on. For models with plastic bases, like my Blood Bowl models, I do glue strong magnets underneath. For everything else I just use metal washers. They stick fine, and I prefer the lower profile. And like you said, for some models it gives them extra weight at the base.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKg8oPF4xfk