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Other Stuff => General Wargames and Hobby Discussion => Topic started by: grubman on 04 May 2017, 01:36:26 PM
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I've never actually SEEN 10mm miniatures in person. Before I buy a ton of things I can't paint, I'm trying to get a grasp on the scale. Looking at pictures isn't very reliable for the most part, since in pics (online) they are enlarged and just look like less detailed 25mm.
In any case, the only dead tree reference I have is the Warmaster Ancients rulebook. Most of the images are still not actual size...but can anyone help me out with what images are closest to the real thing (by actually placing a 10mm miniature next to it)?
In thinking page 67 might be close?
Long ago, when my eyes were better, I painted a handful of sci fi 6mm, and I have some blue moon 18mm wild west sitting on my workbench right now...but even so, I'm having trouble picturing 10mm.
Thanks.
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They tend to be ~10mm tall... ;)
Some are better sculpted/have more detail than others. Depending on your painting style, this may or may not be an advantage.
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Also I'd recommend Pendraken vs. any of the GW warmaster figs. Much nicer. They are roughly half way between your Old Glory stuff and 6mm. :)
I have a load of pics of 10mm ACW stuff on my site: https://mellis1644.wordpress.com/category/10mm/
The bases are inch square if that helps you get an idea of the size of figs.
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Also I'd recommend Pendraken vs. any of the GW warmaster figs. Much nicer. They are roughly half way between your Old Glory stuff and 6mm. :)
I have a load of pics of 10mm ACW stuff on my site: https://mellis1644.wordpress.com/category/10mm/
The bases are inch square if that helps you get an idea of the size of figs.
Yeah, I'm looking at Kalistra (12mm) vs. pendrakon (and other 10mm lines). . Like I said, I'm just trying to get a actual size visual. I know I've purchased 15mm before and been "disillusioned" because in my mind they were going to look/feel as large as 25mm because of the illusion online pictures give (if that makes sense). Doing this small scale in mass is a new adventure for me, and I want to be confident in not seeing myself up for disapointment before I invest (and yes, I know the painting will be different, for a different effect).
I should note, I live in the USA, so it's not as easy as running to the local store or club and looking at some miniatures. Any purchase has to be online, with the accompanying wait for shipping...so ordering "sample" miniatures isn't really prudent. And, of course, living in the USA means I have to prepare and purchase ALL the miniatures before begging random people to play anything that isn't one of the 2 or 3 "popular" games of the week.
Love the USA...but I'm definitely a European when it comes to miniature gaming.
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Love the USA...but I'm definitely a European when it comes to miniature gaming.
Yep, I'm in Canada and know your issues. But I have moved around one the years and found I need to have 'both sides' of any period game I play to ensure I get to use them.
Note, I have found pendraken postage to be not too bad when I have used them - and you save the taxes so that helps as well. Maybe buying a few packs to test out may be the way to go.
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What about ordering one or two sample packs first to see what you think?
As for how easy they are to paint...well, it all depends on what ranges you want. 10mm medievals will require more work than 10mm Egyptians or zulus.
I'd order a couple of packs if I were you - that's the only way you'll know for certain. Oh yeah, and I'd go for the Pendraken 10mm figs as well.
That would seem logical, but since it often takes me 2 or 3 weeks to get a package, ordering samples and then ordering the rest would be about a month or more of "down time" waiting anxiously to paint. The alternative is possibly buying $100 worth of miniatures that will sit around until I sell them off for half of what I paid (That's happened more than once). It's a kunundrum.
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No problem grubman here is a comparison picture The Figure on the left is a standard Warhammer orc the next is a warmaster command stand (10MM) the next is a standard 15MM ancients stand and the last is total insanity Space Marine 6MM :o :D
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad110/warlordfrod/WIN_20170504_12_00_33_Pro_LI_zpsz0uih8bz.jpg)
I have tried to get the top of the first three bases equal to each other to give you as accurate a comparison as possible (I added the 6MM as an after thought but I doubt you will be a nuts as myself and paint hundreds of these little buggers lol o_o lol) They are in front of a standard note card with 6mm spacing between lines. Hope this helps
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No problem grubman here is a comparison picture
Thanks, that's one of the better comparison shots I've seen...especially since Warmaster (fantasy) is the game I'm actually preparing for. It's still not the same as holding an actual figure (or at least having a 2D comparison...hence the reference to the Warmaster Ancients rulebook which has a lot of pictures of individual figures).
I think I'd like painting and viewing 15mm more (I mean, even THOSE look small when I hold them in my hand)...but that isn't going to give the same "mass" feel as 10mm (or 12mm, as the case would probably be) would. Also, I'd get away from the standard scale for Warmaster...on the off chance in a billion that I'd actually find someone else who already had an army or two built and painted...plus 10mm would be a new challenge and adventure (If I actually enjoyed it).
6mm, ha ha, nope, won't do that again. I painted up a few simple figures once. They looked cool on close up pictures...but like nothing on the table. Sold the miniatures, but I wish I had at least kept the pictures.
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As a sort of vague answer - 10mm feels like 15mm to me, when I paint, as opposed to 6mm. I paint them similarly, just less surface area so quicker. Not sure that applies to Warmaster stands though, I'm more thinking of the Eureka snakemen I've been slowly painting. Definitely feel like small 15s as opposed to 6s.
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10mm Warmaster, back when I used to paint them, didn't seem too much removed from 15mm, although yes the scale did give more of a sense of mass at times.
In terms of comparison with 15mm for painting, as has been said, depends on the range and period. Warmaster Empire mostly pretty easy, much easier in fact than the 15mm BF&S I paint now (although I think the 15mm BF&S look better once finished, but that might be the progression in my painting since I did WM) - based on that then 10mm was fine and really makes a difference in terms of numbers on the field (and the space needed).
On the other hand, I got hold of some Pendraken SCW a while ago, and didn't even attempt them as they seemed so small! (And this from a person who used to paint 6mm without similar concern) - so very much comes down to range and figures within a range I think. Pendraken do look great painted up from what I've seen, and certainly actual games with them can look terrific, but my, admittedly one, experience of trying to paint them gives me pause when it comes to deciding between 15 and 10. Probably should give it another go, but basically what I'm saying is sampling would be what I'd suggest, despite the downtime between a sample and a main order.
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[For Mod] I posted in the Ancients forum because I was specifically looking for people who had the Warmaster Ancients rule book for a physical comparison of the 2D pictures in that book to real miniatures so I could get a good visual. Figured guys on the Ancients forum were more likely to have that book.
Not crabbing about the move, just explaining my train of thought. :)
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but basically what I'm saying is sampling would be what I'd suggest, despite the downtime between a sample and a main order.
Yeah, it's looking like that's the only way I'm going to get any piece of mind.
I'm primarily looking at going with Kalistra (which is the same as the Pendraken fantasy), which is apparently 12mm (bigger than most 10mm out there). Apparently all of Pendrakens other historical lines are traditional 10mm.
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Warmaster Fantasy - one of the best games out there for fun BIG battles - its been ages since we played though...last game in 2012
https://shedwars.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/valley-of-tomb-kings.html (https://shedwars.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/valley-of-tomb-kings.html)
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5aOmH40WbHs/T8ZZOIQwVRI/AAAAAAAAAWg/0ft4mDxNTVs/s640/Static+South.jpg)
my terrain has moved on a bit since then...
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I think I'd like painting and viewing 15mm more (I mean, even THOSE look small when I hold them in my hand)...but that isn't going to give the same "mass" feel as 10mm (or 12mm, as the case would probably be) would. Also, I'd get away from the standard scale for Warmaster...on the off chance in a billion that I'd actually find someone else who already had an army or two built and painted...plus 10mm would be a new challenge and adventure (If I actually enjoyed it).
Its really not as bad as it seems (10mm vs 15mm) if the figs are well crafted. The warmaster stuff is designed to paint in my opinion so its not much harder then doing 15mm IMHO. It is the mass effect that appealed to me. Large armies are possible and look great. You can do the same with 15mm but the difference in table area to get the same effect is significant again IMHO. This is why I love 6mm space marine and micro armor when it comes to WWII.
6mm, ha ha, nope, won't do that again. I painted up a few simple figures once. They looked cool on close up pictures...but like nothing on the table. Sold the miniatures, but I wish I had at least kept the pictures.
The key to small figures is to use lighter colors and simpler patterns. Granted painting orcs is sometimes difficult because green that is to light looks almost florescent and the green I prefer tends to look to dark. So I used lots of red, tan, silver and white. Adding Hill giants, trolls etc add splotches of lighter colors. If I get the time I'll post some pic's
Now the key to 6mm is to realize there is less detail and some is easily picked out so it paints up quick (I know I am out of my mind ;D ;D ;D) having painted thousands of space marine figs (Marines, Orcs, Eldar, Imperial guard, and squats) :o :D
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With 10mm think about painting units - not painting individual figures.
Most of my gaming (and painting) is in smaller scales. While I quite like 28mm figures I tend to get bored long before I have enough painted to play a game.
With 10mm (and 6mm) I can churn out units quickly. Think about painting block colours, with minimal highlights. Be brave and go bright with colours (I tend to not be brave enough).
As you are in the States have a look at Warmonger miniatures - a fairly new company but with some very nice figures.
Pendraken are great.
Be aware that all Kallistra and Pendraken's fantasy figures are big, much more 12mm rather than 10mm. You wouldn't want to mix these in units with standard 10mm - they are probably OK in the same army, and certainly work in opposing armies.
With 10mm Fantasy one of the good things is that bigger creatures really can be bigger, so Ogres and Trolls are pretty much 15mm sized, and Dragons and Giants can be 30-50mm tall.
One thing I find with figures, is that the 2d photos can't give any real indication of the bulk of the figures, and this really seems to affect the perceived size as much as anything.
A couple of big battle pictures to remind to get lots of troops on the table!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/29CpdW8EKVKxfQtBc-NKBPOCc1KIc_vjvlSEfz35KkJ1Ul9MkM7JCNjQ42cUtXcN503JskAUzkX9BtS4FU37Sw2VpUAmQT8IZjja_jW6o5RGQXA_bTJYu5lyyt0cJPo9z8I7-a5FV7GAfPYgf20wM83CE49h0wXh6zC-l6Mw0TfZ2ltH-YSjBsmQG8lOAne0S143fNzQ3KmEJpCmUYeIYtxVEk9-P-RUSRKxUQIgzf3J9-zjgRYoi6CB3m-ZPDMPkQPW0QJnHNTLSdKQSQcIxAqw4jbIVydwHUNr-lm1s28oRJpCaF9hCJzTvyKpOvxaq26rDwZYn8jFORsQs4jdORwnv3J6aUiJRExuw9QJW_6rrr3MyH8PtoI9jqeOLcACtwwsfAzf5Agf34kzQLhMd9s3vsJZOVD-zP0occZcGOdNAU5G6gHHNfy0Ncl1ryQcrE8ouG11JwZpg_Uita_O7aBSZKZRVKZuwremOqxOfzXlHYqsI35WevWv3pXTFo9g7UH55S7cGMMIg0Zw0Bdh4-PaUZyJDbU6B_PuhKavT6qFn2QuEoW6WsdlIZt0io98XzCg6fjCmpHatXSeIiEGCJ0xwo8iXkBQp1Cv_tp7qB6Kd1spKdcIzrifPQ3ht7_VAm6gFFUx3p_E0e_64fy7_u4RQ7z2wHQ9XVqmw_MF2g=w1099-h902-no)
This one is a Warmaster game
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nBwf7eKcIAB2xzvLKY3KvGwkKkhqnObIet-MIZFv2rdvO_9-Z31SP9ETVCd98dXOZB-og8t85atSVQTPh1v177G0hoWIXc2Otc9w17nnomQJ3gIEoG4OjVGRWdyE4_Sa55OBMuQnVGWT_JUdUtbXoI5JdxOZDKYP_lELv_QKYew4uoWHY4X26_XOYH-1nVGHYKVIJ0RVbc-F0H1S4atljoFacaBQGP2vaVK3gnaWXzJRJqKmVWJat-FcXkZtbMfIGlEllM1s4i9Q3haK_P1nDbkGnrZ8xEgL2tsKB0pagdayL3ad5c5poKhxJMrPXORCZ7OzfQz7niVCQqhG9kHMVqNYkVA35zzXU0qefIcND7h81brPavOa8xHRlsHY6xpBu4Srr-_T6gpVjjGCS7yGsle11-WsCG-g9lAoevJvsNOIpNEX1RrxlNbbgtgu8xFcXuMXRKSgeC5O7msN9qunPc1t6OHmtUYbNgfUCgrPuN27faPXpFKCCg88LKWbiAouNyWVdaW0wr_F-l9hhqUUYTfxu6rb5c79P0l3cebECwT4Rib6hSdJGBCEWOYZqhu4HidJ5YVonH6oVPZtgwTFnYXaHPugskBPv7F3QFg34pf4UzUufG5o=w768-h1024-no)
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Long time warmaster painter here. I will repeat the advice above and say that 10mm lends itself to simple bold schemes. One of the things I love about smaller scales is the fact that you can dispense with some of the fancier painting techniques simply because you will never see them on models so small. The unit effect is what you are going for. I use GW and Pendraken figs primarily.
This is a stand of Pendraken Hill Dwarfs
(http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad334/ckudola/IMG_3470_zps1iwjwroh.jpg) (http://s949.photobucket.com/user/ckudola/media/IMG_3470_zps1iwjwroh.jpg.html)
These are GW Empire models and Vampire Counts
(http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad334/ckudola/IMG_3379_zpsrvtaoarc.jpg) (http://s949.photobucket.com/user/ckudola/media/IMG_3379_zpsrvtaoarc.jpg.html)
(http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad334/ckudola/IMG_3374_zpskxkmzroc.jpg) (http://s949.photobucket.com/user/ckudola/media/IMG_3374_zpskxkmzroc.jpg.html)
(http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad334/ckudola/IMG_3205_zps4lavdlob.jpg) (http://s949.photobucket.com/user/ckudola/media/IMG_3205_zps4lavdlob.jpg.html)
One of the main differences between GW and Pendraken is that the GW figs come in strips while the Pendraken figs are individuals.
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I agree that small scales (6mm and 10mm) benefit from brighter and bolder schemes. Too much detail in too many colours quickly drowns out the wider effect of your painting, whereas striking schemes with decent contrast and eye-catching spot colours are even more effective at these scales than at 28mm scale.
A dark undercoat/basecoat (doesn't need to be black, it can be dark blue/grey/brown/green/tan, etc), block in the base colours, and then a pass with some fairly broad bright highlights. Finally, pick out details like the banners and such. Any metals are usually best in a brighter tone, then washed, and then finished with a few spot highlights with the original metal colour.
For painting bigger/denser units, you can probably skip the highlights to ranks after the first, or maybe just apply them to the heads and weapon tops - you won't really see them much, and aside from saving you painting time, it makes the front ranks look even "brighter" and smarter by contrast.
I also think it's important to consider your intended basing, and then trying to choose a scheme that stands out a bit on it - again a "cheap-n-dirty" way of getting more contrast and visual mass without needing to actually do a whole lot. Examples would be say Dark Angels space marines on desert bases or Ultramarines on snow bases (for 6mm Epic), or something like Orcs on desert bases and Dark Elves on snow bases (for 10mm fantasy).
The base edges can also be in a different colour to the textured top - so a pale grey base for a mid grey sand texture on top, and patches of snow for a snowy base for example. For temperate greens, you only need to the base edges in a suitable green, and the tops can be any sort of brown/grey/green that looks nice with some flock patches added to it. The darker colours on the base tops help to "fill in" the gaps between models when you look at the unit, which again helps to give them a sense of mass.
I mostly do 28-32mm scale stuff nowadays (since I mostly play skirmish games), but I'm a huge fan of 6-10mm and greatly miss painting and modelling in that scale. :?
[...] since it often takes me 2 or 3 weeks to get a package, ordering samples and then ordering the rest would be about a month or more of "down time" waiting anxiously to paint. The alternative is possibly buying $100 worth of miniatures that will sit around until I sell them off for half of what I paid (That's happened more than once). .
Shipping costs permitting, why not compromise and get a smaller force to test? So buy $30-40 of army to check over, test-paint, base, etc. That way it's easy to add more to the force with a second order if you like it, and you're not out a lot of money if you decide it's not for you and sell it on. It also means that you've go something to do in the meantime, and cuts out that "down time".
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If you're doing 10mm Fantasy I don't think you can beat Copplestone Castings figures. The only issue being the range is very limited, but the detailing is lovely and the sculpts superb.
Here are my humble attempts at painting some of their Dwarves:
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/19/86_07_09_14_4_10_04_1.jpg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/19/86_07_09_14_4_10_04_2.jpg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/19/86_07_09_14_4_10_04_0.jpg)
I must warn you as someone used to painting 28s, these nearly drove me insane as they are really tiny. lol
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So I took everyone's advice and ordered some sample minis...well, that was the plan. Somehow "samples" turned into a 1,000 point Orc and goblin army. Oh well, moderation isn't one of my strong points.
I got the Orks from Kalistra, as planned, and finally decided on Magister Military for my Goblins. Also picked up a sample pack for Empire and High Elves from Kalistra. I know Kalistra run big (12mm), but I don't think it will matter where Orks vs. Gobbos are concerned...and it will be nice to compare the two manufacturers and scale.
Well see how it goes. I'm on vacation in a week with no plans...so hopefully they arrive by then. It'll either be awesome...or $100 down the toilet. :)
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If you're doing 10mm Fantasy I don't think you can beat Copplestone Castings figures. The only issue being the range is very limited, but the detailing is lovely and the sculpts superb.
This in general, but the limited range is a big issue. I really don't know why Mark doesn't sculpt any more at this scale, because it would not only do well, but would bolster sales of his current 10mm ranges (which are pretty incomplete) as well. :?
So I took everyone's advice and ordered some sample minis...well, that was the plan. Somehow "samples" turned into a 1,000 point Orc and goblin army. Oh well, moderation isn't one of my strong points.
Good man! lol
Personally, I hope that you like them and enjoy the project, and that you will write up your progress with them - your earlier Starguard adventures were very interesting reading. :)
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Personally, I hope that you like them and enjoy the project, and that you will write up your progress with them - your earlier Starguard adventures were very interesting reading. :)
Thanks :). I've been in a hobby "slump" for some time. I really need something (New) to reignite my passion.
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You guys think you've got it bad, 3mm are worse! ;D
More seriously, I honestly think smaller scales are the far superior way for big battles. 28mm only works with very personal games, so fantasy, skirmishes etc where character is a big thing (Sharp Practise would fall under this category too). Otherwise, in my book, so long as you can tell there's a miniature there, the smaller the better. :D
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Found an "if you do all the work and spend all the money, I'll play" opponent just now. He's a role player who never played miniature wargames before...but that's where a lot of guys start. I remember the "high" after I played my first real miniature game.
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This in general, but the limited range is a big issue. I really don't know why Mark doesn't sculpt any more at this scale, because it would not only do well, but would bolster sales of his current 10mm ranges (which are pretty incomplete) as well. :?
That's exactly my point! I have bought in on both the 10mm and the 15mm which are even better and have some models that can be used for both scales, i.e. The 15mm trolls and giants.
But for several years Mr Copplestone does not finish the ranges, so I have an incomplete Gondor army, though it is said the Half Elf Cavalry is just needing finishing touches, an incomplete 15mm Pict army without command and heroes and fairly complete 10mm Orc, Half Orc and 15mm Barbarians.
I'd immediately buy the dwarfs and nearly everything he would make just as long as he gives me the chance to buy a complete range and not just fractions!
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I'm no great painter, but I find I can get decent effects in 10mm without using ink washes or drybrushing. They do give a super effect on the table (and I've done lots of 6mm and 15mm in my time). I use them for virtually everything, from NKE to WWII.
P.S. If you get impatient waiting for parcels in the US, try ordering from Thailand!
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Found an "if you do all the work and spend all the money, I'll play" opponent just now. He's a role player who never played miniature wargames before...but that's where a lot of guys start. I remember the "high" after I played my first real miniature game.
Well the nice thing about armies like this is that there are lots of rule sets to play with, so even if he likes the experience but not so much the game, you still have other options. Kings of War for example is supposed to be good at this scale, and is extremely easy to learn (and I mention it because the core rules are free).
@ DavisMal:
I think if Mr Copplestone finished ranges, I'd give him some fairly serious custom. On the other hand, if he's not that bothered about his own products, why should anybody else be? :P
I also love his old Imperial Guard figs for GW, and would be instantly interested if he did something close in style with all the options. Alas, I doubt he ever will. :(
@ Malamute:
I meant to compliment your lovely models BTW, and I see now that I very rudely didn't - sorry! I think they look super, and pretty much emphasise the points I made about painting 10mm higher up in the thread.
@ FierceKitty:
I agree with your painting comments, although I think that washes (especially some of the coloured washes, and not just brown/black) work very well as this scale - but they do still need a highlight afterwards to finish them.
And whilst I know I'm courting controversy with this next statement, I'm going to make it anyway: I think that drybrushing very often looks rather poor on models in the 6-15mm scale, despite this seemingly being the most popular painting technique for these miniature sizes.
The finish it gives is too coarse, too rough, and it leaves models looking indistinct and "blurry" from even a short distance away. Sure, it's quick, fast, and easy, but one pass of neat basic highlights isn't that hard or time-consuming to do, and always looks faaaar better to me.
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So I took everyone's advice and ordered some sample minis...well, that was the plan. Somehow "samples" turned into a 1,000 point Orc and goblin army. Oh well, moderation isn't one of my strong points.
I got the Orks from Kalistra, as planned, and finally decided on Magister Military for my Goblins. Also picked up a sample pack for Empire and High Elves from Kalistra. I know Kalistra run big (12mm), but I don't think it will matter where Orks vs. Gobbos are concerned...and it will be nice to compare the two manufacturers and scale.
Well see how it goes. I'm on vacation in a week with no plans...so hopefully they arrive by then. It'll either be awesome...or $100 down the toilet. :)
I feel you there, I've just done pretty much the same thing myself - ordered a whole bunch of Elves and Goblins from Magister Militum and Pendraken to 'sample' the wares and see how I enjoy painting them, but ended up with almost an entire army of Elves across the two ranges, oops! I decided on 10mm in the end as I've always wanted to build a massive army (or two, or three, or four :D) in fantasy but it was never going to happen in 28mm; I'm far too slow at painting and with other gaming stuff that I'll be spending money on, I just can't justify the cost at 28mm. I have to admit, I did initially go 'woah, these are bloody tiny' when the first lot of Elves arrived, but after having them sat on my desk for a week I'm starting to come round to the idea of taking a paintbrush to them now. Hopefully the Pendraken stuff arrives soon (ordered a random assortment of Elves, Goblins and Halflings from them if I remember correctly), I might have stuffed myself with different sized miniatures, but I'll see how they fit together once they all arrive.
Just need to pick up a few painting supplies and hopefully I'll get a chance to get these started before we move interstate next month - as soon as I'm up and running, I think this will be my first project log on the forums, so I'll try and get some comparison pics up etc. when everything's here. Shipping can be an issue here too, though (in Australia) so unfortunately won't be ordering anything else until we've moved now, unless I can sneak in a cheeky order with Eureka (the wife might allow it as it'll be our last chance to pick up in store before we move and have to pay the dreaded postag lol ).
Some wonderful pictures of people's painted models on here has helped inspire me to get back to this as soon as possible as well, so thanks everyone!
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Good to hear that the 10mm bug has bitten! Getting started painting them can be bit hard, but once you get in to the swing they are super fast to paint.
One of my mates has just started working on his first 10mm army (Dark Elves) and he procrastinated for ages. But now that he has started he is cracking on at a good pace.
When I started one of the best tips I found was to spray the figures black, then dry brush all over, either in Silver for armoured figures, or an appropriate pale colour for non-armoured figures. This gives you a good pre-shade for the next colours, and helps you see the details. It also really speeds up painting armoured figures. It is a bit of a crude technique - but it really helps get you into painting units, rather than figures.
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Good to hear that the 10mm bug has bitten! Getting started painting them can When I started one of the best tips I found was to spray the figures black, then dry brush all over, either in Silver for armoured figures, or an appropriate pale colour for non-armoured figures. This gives you a good pre-shade for the next colours, and helps you see the details. It also really speeds up painting armoured figures. It is a bit of a crude technique - but it really helps get you into painting units, rather than figures.
I've been experimenting with colors and "quick paint" techniques on a bunch of 15mm I had lying around. I think I'm liking the one below the best, although I will have to see how it transfers to 10mm. It's a dark brown undercoat, with a light brown drybrush, followed by bright inkwashes and a quick drybrush to highlight.
(Note: Ignore the ugly color scheme, I was experimenting with a variety of colors using this technique...not trying to make nice looking miniatures :))
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s182/grubman/Cow_zpsxqqa6w3s.png) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/grubman/media/Cow_zpsxqqa6w3s.png.html)
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That certainly works!
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@Grubman, I have been captivated by this thread and your quest! I look forward to seeing your posts once your figures arrive. I don't know anything about 10mm, but just from seeing pictures of massed battles on this thread they exert a sort of "pull" on me. I enjoy seeing a base packed with figures. Good luck!
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! I look forward to seeing your posts once your figures arrive.
Your wish is my command :). http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=100773.new;topicseen#new
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Grubman, thanks to you I played close attention to the 10mm games and traders I saw at Partizan. I liked it. I think I could adjust myself to painting some 10mm. I just won't do the eyes.