Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Fantasy Adventures => Topic started by: Baconfat on 13 November 2020, 09:49:47 PM
-
Has anyone found a good source for boats for the Battlesworn supplement?
I'm not very interested in making one from scratch. If Northstar released a model with book, they could have taken more of my money.
-
Has anyone found a good source for boats for the Battlesworn supplement?
I'm not very interested in making one from scratch. If Northstar released a model with book, they could have taken more of my money.
Not entirely sure if this is the right size, but it might work for you.
(https://i.imgur.com/C7vGwjm.jpg)
It's a river barge tile I'd tossed together for a D&D adventure last year where I needed a few of them. Might be usable for your purpose. The grid is supposed to be 1 inch...
-
Sarissa make some mdf boats
https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/ships-boats
Things like the Cog or longship may be suitable?
-
Sarissa make some mdf boats
https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/ships-boats
Things like the Cog or longship may be suitable?
Or the dhow.
-
Dogs of War(?) make some really nice small resin launches.
If you're interested in outfitting a hull for a larger ship - Ziterdes makes really cool hard-foam ship hulls. You'd have to make masts/sails/etc....but they do the hard work for ya.
-
Zvezda has a plastic 1:72 medieval life boat, and Revell a 1:50 viking ship (also plastic), but I dont know, how do they fit to 25mm bases. Honestly, I wouldnt bother much about the size, if not all the minus fit in, they can still be used as it would.
There was also an older topic here:
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=30227.45
-
For a gentler river crossing there is
https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/old-west-28mm/products/cable-ferry-28mm (https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/old-west-28mm/products/cable-ferry-28mm)
Ainsty do a number of boats.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7WLKfHYSEh8/WmTl9oRT0TI/AAAAAAAAC8Y/gtFMq_baQF8hGb94bjD70ytkfBief7-dACLcBGAs/s1600/boat-2.png)
-
Barrage Miniatures in Madrid have a good selection of boats from Dark Ages through to WW2 and Vietnam.
https://www.barrageminiatures.com/31-boats (https://www.barrageminiatures.com/31-boats)
-
There’s a couple here that might suffice.
https://www.gamesofwar.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=65 (https://www.gamesofwar.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=65)
-
Blotz have one.
https://blotz.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23_29_220&products_id=1455 (https://blotz.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23_29_220&products_id=1455)
-
I brought a few of these when I found them for a good price at the toy shop: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vENhmhP6Q9g
They are big, I can probably fit an entire unit or two spread out on the top deck, but they looked perfect for my Albion/Celt project. They might be too large for most game tables, but I'm happy out with them. I will scratch build some big goblin ones too, so having them larger means I can make some mighty sized goblin ones.
-
I couldn't make up my mind which to buy, so I made one.
1. Hot glue foam board to cardstock sides
2. Scrape wood grain into bendy craft foam
3. White glue foam to frame
-
I will be buying the rest of my fleet. This takes too long and I still haven't made any rigging.
The mast is two plastic pens scraped to hopefully look like wood.
The mastfish and figure-head are Sculpy baking clay.
-
It looks good! I think with rigging, it will be much more than enough for the table.
-
That long boat is great (you did not use the curtains for the sails?).
-
Having now read the supplement (which has started a number of ideas, as has the Oathmark Archipelago thread here), there is the question of how best to represent the craft in accordance with the rules.
Theoretically both sizes require a five by four inch slot for the small boat, and two slots for the larger boat. Additional space would then be required for the crew and make it look like a boat.
-
That long boat is great (you did not use the curtains for the sails?).
The fabric is that lightweight fabric that sometimes comes with new shoes (Reebok and Sears are two brands). Soaked it with spray paint twice. Once dry, masked and sprayed white and blue stripes. The first spray soaks prevents the stripes from bleeding into each other. The paint also gives the fabric some strength to hold a shape and maintain flexibility, even unfurled.
One pair of shoes will give you enough for five or six sails.
-
A bit of Threadomancy, but I thought this deserved it.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyIsO7nX1glS8xp-PRixjS_123NWONgxwRO7Gv5sSWiRKOY856dW4YX63OmnYsXeHY1gfWspqMQXqmJlRniMBjs_cPL56RPCppWJpFv8ufmbkwPPAk5eQ097azTSkD7tC1jcRVgCC4pDWdHMWi0TOtaVCSdJVVnvMt5Zfh2J9P_gJEM6Rp6rCQi7BakQ/s527/b28-bs-006-9.png)
Blotz do a River Barge which just happens to be big enough to take a 5x4 sabot base.
https://blotz.co.uk/product/28mm-river-barge/ (https://blotz.co.uk/product/28mm-river-barge/)
Okay, as an MDF kit it would seem to leak at the corners a bit.
I will have some more photographs on my Oathmark thread later.
-
For a stalled Ghost Archipelago project, I bought some cheap 2nd hand Playmobil pirate ships; a big one and a slightly smaller one. They are perfect for conversion into 28mm scale vessels, but they do need waterlining, which will be a right chore as they are made of very thick and sturdy plastic.
But I'm happy with them, even though I have not done any converting on them (yet)...
-
I bought myself a pair of the Revell 1:50 viking ships and they easily fit quite a few models and look like they're the right scale. Unfortunately, I still have to figure out a good way to remove the bottom part of the hull in a straight line so they don't need supports and look much better on the table. Any suggestions for that would be more than welcome!
I also have a pair of smaller sailboats from Archon. One had a casting flaw so they sent me a second sprue and I'm obviously doing repairs on the damaged one. Those however are pretty small and are more suitable for an adventuring part than for real units.
-
Coincidentally I have that very same boat for some Vikings I have; at 1/50, it's understandably poppular with historical wargamers.
I still have to try waterlining myself, but when I do, I will use this method I have seen on several different blogs over the years:
Build the ship, and then temporarily fix it to a flat surface, with plenty of room to spare around it. Then attach a marker to a flat block in such a way that the very tip of the marker is at the exact level you want the waterline to be on your ship.
Then slide the block with the marker around the ship, taking care that the tip of the marker is always touching the ship. Go all around the hull, till you have a continuous line all around the ship.
Then cut the hull by whatever means you have available along the line. This can be a hacksaw, a jeweler's saw (for which you will need to pre-drill a hole, obviously) or even a powertool of choice, such as a jigsaw, or, if your have the luxury; a tablesaw (safety!).
After the cutting, fix a large surface of sanding paper to the table and sand the cut edges of the hull smooth.
The nice thing about this method is that you can afford to be less precise when cutting, because you can sand the hull perfectly flat later on...
-
Blotz have some inexpensive mdf models that might do for this.
https://blotz.co.uk/product-category/wargames-terrain/28mm-terrain/boats-and-ships-28mm/
-
Blotz have some inexpensive mdf models that might do for this.
https://blotz.co.uk/product-category/wargames-terrain/28mm-terrain/boats-and-ships-28mm/
Jolly Boat (nine figures).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEix1qZ1xL6_6i_Qn4ekcszjBDdULsK15J75t_TsSrTL24BcjV9JFycUwKkmu4FvTDL3ldBGfXFKYzd3f3feMjP5yEz6W4fwy7zkPfxsJF13B81UwM6HJMw4_3GV8hyJrkQuax1Hat_ujWTwMAAPF59UZ10hU9OaAwSSRH7Sy1GTglgPBoMso1XI8Ucc1g=s16000)
River Barge (twenty figures).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ejbl7I6o9BvQG3JLHgu2DrsDwVXTDLhhMmfBhciBlT1qwOpb-vDiCmoDSQz3ypoMora_4Y0B1ZRRR5U9VmukSw7fFENXcoxdKD8y_gu5Lc5mo8pJalM49ux12duWHm4klBW7XrAc17fWsaIebInLoJvzvwOJ5zylGAkG7Vc5v-3av9T40eeuETSBBQ/s16000/b28-bs-006-8.png)
-
Then cut the hull by whatever means you have available along the line. This can be a hacksaw, a jeweler's saw (for which you will need to pre-drill a hole, obviously) or even a powertool of choice, such as a jigsaw, or, if your have the luxury; a tablesaw (safety!).
While I havent done it myself, I've seen people do it with a bandsaw and I gotta say, with a fine toothed blade it seems like the best saw to use.