Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Future Wars => Topic started by: YPU on 17 February 2024, 04:27:00 PM
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I puddle along working on various 6mm sci-fi projects for years, but hardly ever get round to putting it all on the table. Finally did so today as I completed a big set of roads and details to go along with it, and I figured I'd share it with you lot.
(https://i.imgur.com/RD28Qt6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CosJZVh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s5u9MNd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oge1inp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oI8atJn.jpg)
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That's coming together, sweet! :)
All those roads look brill, I don't know what you were fussing about. Left side driving too! 8)
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Ofcourse I've found plenty of things to change since taking these pictures. I've given all the water features a new coat of gloss varnish, they are almost a decade old after all and were going a bit dull.
Further to do list:
-finish that darn overpass, new on ramp, curved version of that, splitting sections. But liking how the overpass looks looks currently at least, not too tall, nice swoops etc.
-Need bridges, and maybe smaller river.
-bottom layer for the urban areas, this is just bare pp plastic.
-want more ridges/hills to get the feeling of valleys, this still feels like hills on a flat plane, not rivers and towns running through valleys
That's coming together, sweet! :)
All those roads look brill, I don't know what you were fussing about. Left side driving too! 8)
Cheers! Well it took some thinking to get them here. And yeah I figured if I was going to take japan as prototype for my scenery in 6mm, I might as well take that aspect as well. It makes more sense anyway.
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That is a great looking map. The elevated highway is impressive.
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That is a great looking map. The elevated highway is impressive.
Thanks! Yes the highway can use some paint, but I'm really happy about the look of it shape wise.
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That looks brilliant, I want to play on it! It would be great for a variety of hard sci-fi settings, too.
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Thats a good looking setup. An overpass always helps!
Regarding the hills - I get what you mean about the way wargame style hills look, they don’t really work to represent real terrain at all, which is much larger. I tend to go for various pieces of expanded foam under a cloth to give larger scale terrain - but this gives a very different style of game - as players love the traditional hills to hide behind!
Also with your fairly large terrain pieces they will struggle if placed on bigger rolling hills.
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looking very impressive.
Bring on the big stompy robots.
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Cheers people!
That looks brilliant, I want to play on it! It would be great for a variety of hard sci-fi settings, too.
Yes absolutely my plan. Heck I enjoy mechs stomping trough something like this more than a dystopian cyclopian megacity. This gives a better sense of their scale.
Thats a good looking setup. An overpass always helps!
Regarding the hills - I get what you mean about the way wargame style hills look, they don’t really work to represent real terrain at all, which is much larger. I tend to go for various pieces of expanded foam under a cloth to give larger scale terrain - but this gives a very different style of game - as players love the traditional hills to hide behind!
Also with your fairly large terrain pieces they will struggle if placed on bigger rolling hills.
Yeah it's an ongoing thought process. There is the option of doing a dedicated set table, just go whole hogg railroad table modelling on it and get something extra special, but that fixes you into one setup.
A more modular system like Hexon can give options, but it always look so artificial. I've in the past done games in 28mm where we tilted the table a bit and said the entire thing was on the slope of a hill. (fun in car combat games where that changes speed!) Since that actually fits the size of real hills!
I'm currently starting some smaller ridges, stuff that breaks the table up a bit and maybe helps with the valley feel, 2-3 inch wide and nearly that tall to make them good and impassible terrain. I should note at least that the biggest hill is large enough to have a town on top of it, which is always fun.
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Oh, this looks really, really nice.:)
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Yes, this is awesome!
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Looks great mate :)
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Thanks peeps!
Looking at it more I think I want to do some more stand alone buildings to put next to roads, just 1-3 houses with sheds etc. so the urban area can transfer to rural a bit smoother. I think I have buildings a plenty, but I'd love some suggestions of how to arrange them to get that look right.
Also re-considering an old idea to make really steep hills/mountains that go on table edges, to enforce that valley feeling without blocking too much table space. This being a japan inspired table I could make sections with fancy tunnel entrances to keep some mobility points trough the otherwise blocked table edge.
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I don’t know about rural Japan, but in the rural area where I grew up in the 1980s and early ‘90s, it was customary to have derelict farm equipment and vehicles parked around a lot of the farms and rusting back into soil. (Nothing derogatory meant toward the farmers - they ran the equipment until it didn’t make financial sense to repair it. At that point no other farmer would be interested in buying it, and the price of scrap metal wasn’t high enough to justify trucking the old gear away to sell for scrap…)
Based on my experience in western Canada, usually rural lots have a main house, a building used as a repair bay for equipment, one or more barns for livestock and storing feed, plus a few cylindrical bins/ silos for storing grain or other dry crops. Adjust as needed, depending on what they are growing/ raising (farms vary quite a bit depending on what they specialize in producing).
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I don’t know about rural Japan, but in the rural area where I grew up in the 1980s and early ‘90s, it was customary to have derelict farm equipment and vehicles parked around a lot of the farms and rusting back into soil. (Nothing derogatory meant toward the farmers - they ran the equipment until it didn’t make financial sense to repair it. At that point no other farmer would be interested in buying it, and the price of scrap metal wasn’t high enough to justify trucking the old gear away to sell for scrap…)
Based on my experience in western Canada, usually rural lots have a main house, a building used as a repair bay for equipment, one or more barns for livestock and storing feed, plus a few cylindrical bins/ silos for storing grain or other dry crops. Adjust as needed, depending on what they are growing/ raising (farms vary quite a bit depending on what they specialize in producing).
From spending too much time on google maps/street view, it seems that large scale farming is much rarer. its more small fields worked with (powered) hand tools still? I'm making assumptions here but I cant seem to spot many machine sheds like the ones you describe. I'm dutch and around here the farming definitely has taken a more and more industrial scale, one farm would easily take up an entire table (and be perfectly flat) but that doesn't seem to be the case in japan, I think I could actually get away with just a house with 2-3 small paddy fields.
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...one farm would easily take up an entire table (and be perfectly flat)...
One table would certainly not cover it, not even in 6mm ;)
Your layout is looking wonderful!
Too bad giant robots and monsters will be duking it out there, destroying the coutryside and everything in it :D
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Your observations based on Google maps/ street view make sense, given the mountainous landscape in Japan and the importance of paddy rice as a a crop. Rice paddies on even gentle hillsides need to be terraced, which isn’t very compatible with using large farm machines (compared with wheat-type crops where ploughing across gentle slopes isn’t a problem). Also, wet paddies limit the ground pressure/ size for machines working on them. I traveled a bit in Thailand and spent a year in the Republic of Korea in the ‘90s and the farming machines then were small. In Thailand, they were nicknamed “iron buffaloes” and were really about the size of the animal. The machines would only need a workshop or shed about the size of a garage for a car. Vegetable fields were similarly small.
In Korea I lived close to Seoul, in a relatively flat area (flood plain along the Han River, west of the main city). There were some large buildings on farms in that area - enclosed greenhouses and barns, but nothing like as common as in western Canada.
Actually, even in western Canada landscape matters a lot. In the prairies where I live now, the industrial scale grain farms are dominant and have the format I described in the earlier post. In the mountainous areas to the west, where I used to live, the farming areas are limited to valley bottoms and lower slopes and most farms are much smaller. The small farms are still mechanized, but can’t compete with growing grain on the scale that is possible on the prairies, so farms tend to produce specialized crops, orchards/ vineyards, or feed crops to support cattle (the ranches usually have grazing areas on the mountains as well).
As far as a gaming table is concerned, I think your idea to use clusters of smaller buildings seems quite valid. You could add a few large greenhouses or hydroponic buildings or chicken/ pig barns, too, for variety. Some hills with terraced rice paddies could also add variety, but might not have as much versatility for games set in other regions. Whichever way you decide to go, I have no doubt it will look excellent!
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As far as a gaming table is concerned, I think your idea to use clusters of smaller buildings seems quite valid. You could add a few large greenhouses or hydroponic buildings or chicken/ pig barns, too, for variety. Some hills with terraced rice paddies could also add variety, but might not have as much versatility for games set in other regions. Whichever way you decide to go, I have no doubt it will look excellent!
This is a struggle I have continually. I think up all sorts of "specialized" hills, but they would only work for one region, period and scale, while generic hills work everywhere in any scale.
I fully agree with your other observations as well.
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Another element I'm pondering is railroads.
(https://i.imgur.com/odCsvXe.jpg)
I have the actual rail section figured out, but they are very short (to prevent warping) and not that interesting in the big picture. So one way or another I am going to base them, if nothing else to just have larger pieces to make setup faster.
Now one of the options is to put them on embankments. this makes sense realistically and makes for a good LOS blocker to slap down over the entire table. (hills seeing over it is a nice bonus there)
Something like this.
(https://i.imgur.com/XUEVVle.png)
about 8-10mm tall, using foamcore as the main material and 3d printed end caps with magnets and pegs to line them up.
This would also allow room for occasional details like small sheds or control boxes next to the road, wider embankments with parallel roads for sections and low bridges like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/vQ1KHWq.png)
on the other hand I will need to make railroad crossings to meet up with my roads, and having both on the table at once may become hard to interweave all together.
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Looking good. For hills I've used carpet underlay cut to contours with a cloth over the top. It gives you much better more naturalistic looking rolling terrain rather than perfectly flat-hill-flat. Because all the things going on it are light it doesn't squash down.
I'd love to see a good implementation for 6 mm railways. I have some MDF ones that are fine enough but there isn't really anything out there that covers all the various bits you'd need (ie level crossings, bridges, embankments, signal boxes, platforms, stations, etc). As you say the lengths tend to be very short resulting in a very slow set up and forever readjusting as they get knocked.
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I'd love to see a good implementation for 6 mm railways.
This is a single point of uncertainty for me.
Being cheap, I want to use foamcore as my main material, only the track and end sections will be 3d printed (and details like bridges)
but doing this 3d stuff professionally, it would suit me to make the entire thing 3d printable...
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I've started experimenting on a fast and simple ride, to get more valleys on the table without needing massive hills and mountains.
(https://i.imgur.com/7ze114j.jpg)
humble beginnings I know, I've sanded it now and smeared it in filler, lets see how this turns out when done.
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I’m looking forward to seeing how these turn out! They should work well for breaking lines of sight, and placing the built elements of the scene in context. Building roads and town sites to avoid outcrops of bedrock just makes sense most of the time.
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I’m looking forward to seeing how these turn out! They should work well for breaking lines of sight, and placing the built elements of the scene in context. Building roads and town sites to avoid outcrops of bedrock just makes sense most of the time.
Exactly!
its been going quite fast so far, if I'm not sick of them soon I may also do one or two ones specifically for the edge of the table (so flat back) with a switchback road going over it, and/or a tunnel exiting into my raised expressway. It would need to be a lot taller though, my current raised sections could almost cross over this one.
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Small update before I cover this thing up with trees, looks a bit better already I'd say
(https://i.imgur.com/setlP1t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LTZjTMl.jpg)
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If this is Japan you are aiming for then in my experience pretty much all slopes that couldn't be cultivated seemed to be covered in thick forest or bamboo. So I would suggest any part of these that isn't rock could be "wooded up" using your folliage of choice. Since they aren't playable areas as such then just sticking it direct to the slopes should work.
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Yes thats exactly what I'm aiming for. Though I think pine is much more common than bamboo, which can be a bit of a cliche when dealing with asia. Either way, I've spent far too much time painting cutting and gluing tiny trees, and then drilling holes and sticking them in the hill to hide all my previous work.
(https://i.imgur.com/tOFZzpf.jpg)
I had hoped to just to the first few rows and then switch to gluing the foliage to the hill itself but its a bit too small for that I think I'll go all the way and finish it all the way I've started.
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That’s looking very promising! The trees and foliage look quite good on the ridge.
If you want to add a little variety on future ridges, you could include a small temple or shrine near an outcrop or a prominent spot. Traditional religion in Japan has a strong element of veneration of the natural world and working to maintain harmony between human and non-human forces. When Buddhism was introduced, the details of practiced changed but shrines and hermitages in mountains still are part of the picture.
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It's so tempting to add details like that, but at the same time I don't want to lock this stuff into a very specific scale or location.
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Yeah, I completely agree. I try to keep my terrain and scenics as flexible as I can, too. One possibility that I have pondered but not executed yet is to build in a flat spot on the ridge. Maybe about 25mm x 30mm or similar. The flat spot could accommodate a Shinto shrine, a sci-fi air defense installation, a radio tower, or whatever, depending on the game. Could also make a forest piece to fit, for games where the ridge is in wilderness.
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Inspirational stuff to be sure. I love the elevated roadways and your approach to making some valleys.
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Yeah, I completely agree. I try to keep my terrain and scenics as flexible as I can, too. One possibility that I have pondered but not executed yet is to build in a flat spot on the ridge. Maybe about 25mm x 30mm or similar. The flat spot could accommodate a Shinto shrine, a sci-fi air defense installation, a radio tower, or whatever, depending on the game. Could also make a forest piece to fit, for games where the ridge is in wilderness.
Thats probably the best intermediary modular approach, should try that on the next hill. In fact, I have a tiny shrine ready and painted, because I made one for the urban tiles and I always print doubles.
(https://i.imgur.com/AnelQ4z.jpeg)
Meanwhile, making these trees is taking ages and I'm considering switching over to just bushes on any further ridges I make. Added problem, I'm making these with DIY clump foliage (aka sponge and foam in a blender with paint) but my crafting blender has stopped working so I cant make any more matching foliage, and if I use a different colour/texture, might as well make that shrubbs instead of trees on the next ridge... right?... right? this is taking so long per tree to do.
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Switching to shrubs seems like it would probably look quite good. From the air (similar to the viewpoint of a gamer standing by a terrain layout), the difference between scrubs and trees isn’t always obvious. You see the leaf canopy of the vegetation but can’t necessarily tell how far that is from the ground. In your case, the ridge itself is primarily blocking line of sight anyway, and usually won’t have figures placed there, so a layer of shrubs should do work well.
If you need a justification for shrubs growing on the ridges rather than trees, sometimes that happens when a slope has been logged. The trees held the soil in place and when they’re removed the slope eroded. Vegetation grows in, but is stunted and for a long time is shrubs rather than the forest…
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A thicker layer of foliage would look like trees anyway so a compromise would be individual trees around the edge then just foliage in the middle. I wouldn't even bother with that personally, just clump foliage would do the job just fine.
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I got in a game of Hypersteel nightmare (currently in playtest) on this scenery and my opponent clearly has the better camera on his phone, so enjoy the pictures he took.
(https://i.imgur.com/yA2nB52.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iptBoBL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y1uOo55.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZpHgydK.jpg)
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That looks brilliant! I love how the terrain elements work together and tanks and robots look great.
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For trees
1. Buy cotton buds designed for cleaning dogs ears (yes that's a thing) with wooden shafts.
2. Trim shaft to required size.
3. Paint shaft whatever tree trunk colour you want.
4. Allow to dry.
5. Dip the cotton bits in green ink of your preferred colour.
6. Allow to dry.
7. Twirl cotton part in PVA glue.
8. Twirl cotton part in preferred flock.
9. Allow to dry.
10. A coat or two of spray varnish will help keep the flock in place.
I don't have an image of the 6mm version but here's the 3mm equivalent - a Roman orchard, using standard cotton buds.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/996x331q90/922/bwRknk.jpg)
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Wow; that table (and the battle on it) is a thing of beauty! 8)
Love the use of the old 40K translucent objective markers; I still use them as well.
And another test game eh? You do seem to beta a lot :D
@ Ithoriel; sounds like a pretty solid idea; the execution looks really good too :)
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Wow; that table (and the battle on it) is a thing of beauty! 8)
Love the use of the old 40K translucent objective markers; I still use them as well.
And another test game eh? You do seem to beta a lot :D
Thanks! Yeah those objective markers jump out so strongly which is nice for objectives.
Yeah that's the magpie in me, always looking for the new shiny. But in this case I'm also sculpting miniatures to go with it, not shown here.
For trees
I like the effect you have here but it sounds slower than my current process tbh. I just paint a skewer, snip to size, stick clump foliage on it and done. its placing them on the hill one by one that is taking the most time.
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Really cool table :-*
Maybe bath mat trees? https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=141828.0;topicseen (https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=141828.0;topicseen)
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This is a great looking table, clustering a diverse bunch of smaller houses really works here as you do not need their streets to be playable.
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Great table with some classic Dirtside miniatures.
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Maybe bath mat trees? https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=141828.0;topicseen (https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=141828.0;topicseen)
I'll be darned... need to keep an eye open for one of those mats.
This is a great looking table, clustering a diverse bunch of smaller houses really works here as you do not need their streets to be playable.
Thanks! Yes I've spend way to much time thinking how I wanted to base my buildings. I dislike the too openly spaced looks of most wargaming tables, and wanted some dense sprawl. In general we play this as impassible for most things except infantry which fits urban combat just fine to me. The square base with 2 corners cut also allows for non grid layouts with interesting 45 degree corners everywhere so you cant look trough the entire town one end to another.
We did set up the streets too narrow here, I had planned to keep about 3cm between each element and should have stuck with that for playability.
Great table with some classic Dirtside miniatures.
Thanks! yeah I am quickly realizing that era of sci-fi (hovercrafts!) is where I want to play in, just removed from reality enough for comfort.
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Awesome man, love those beauty shots! Also very cool to see my old 6mm scenery on your table, I'm so glad they see action in your house!!
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Awesome man, love those beauty shots! Also very cool to see my old 6mm scenery on your table, I'm so glad they see action in your house!!
Yes, and vehicles as well!
Not my house though, I just put it all in a folding crate and take it with me, one of the advantages of 6mm.
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I still haven't finished the ridge, though it makes a sneaky appearance here.
I had a burst of inspiration for the first farmstead. Honestly, halfway trough making this I felt like it turned out way too linear and why did I make it a rectangle etc. But I think the final result is not so bad. I really really should try for more trapezoidal and curved bases for these in the future though, to give that feeling that there is a history to the property boundaries. (btw, did you know google maps shows all sorts of historical property boundaries in japan? its fascinating)
(https://i.imgur.com/PqjWPZ6.jpeg)
This piece is intended to connect the main roads and my farm fields, or maybe as a passage between 2 main roads or to some other scenery piece, I think it does that nicely.
(https://i.imgur.com/iA8hKCE.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cd2j6by.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NOiInKf.jpeg)
I think the vegetable patch and pair of parked cars add the final touch of life to the whole thing. I also experimented with pastels over sand to give the suggestion of areas that see more use, let me know if those are coming tough for you lot or if it just looks like patchy sand. lol
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Looks great 8)
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Love the used pastel effect :-*
Maybe a bit of 'dust'/weathering on top of the farmers house roof would bind it more together. Looks a bit clinical next to the weathered sheds.
The linear part dosnt bother me. love the hole thing
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Maybe a bit of 'dust'/weathering on top of the farmers house roof would bind it more together. Looks a bit clinical next to the weathered sheds.
Looking at Google maps it always strikes me how shiny and clean roofing tiles are in south east Asia. I was half tempted to give them a bit of gloss coat. But as always realism does not equate verisimilitude, it's something for me to consider for sure.
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For sure could be my weathering fetish lol
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I love it! It looks quite reasonable to me for representing a rural home.
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One thing I think is missing from the prototype is more garden walls, I'm printing some now for the next building cluster.
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Great ground textures, varied enough to be very realistic. The total is greater than the sum of its parts! 8)
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Cheers, Phil!
And instead of finishing that ridge I am now planning the next farmhouse XD
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What a nice little diorama! To me it feels like the Greek countryside.
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What a nice little diorama! To me it feels like the Greek countryside.
Not what I was going for, but people going "I know where this is!" absolutely is the reaction I hope for!
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And would you look at that, I've actually finished the ridge as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/jBbEIdh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/A3O2RjG.jpeg)
One side is a bit boring, the other a lot more playful with the cliffs and lower foliage covering.
It's not nearly as tall as it "should" be, but it blocks LOS from a 5 story building which really, that's all you need right?
(https://i.imgur.com/8Hxk4xQ.jpeg)
I cant say I'm super hyped to make another half dozen of them, though that would probably look a lot more cohesive on the table. I'm currently deliberating if I make more free standing ones, or go for the table edge ones first. And if I want to use the same foliage for it, because my hobby blender give up the ghost so I cant make DIY clump foliage anymore until I find another cheap blender, or maybe a food chopper like this would be better? I'd love to hear opinions on that.
(https://i.imgur.com/kmMdrAc.jpeg)
I don't need my sponges liquified, just chopped into rough chunks. The larger blade area should also stop me from needing to mix it manually as much... maybe.
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That turned out quite well. I have no advice to give about the grinder - I haven’t used that technique for making trees. The effect certainly works! I like the look of the rock outcrops through the trees.
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Looks great :)
A manual chopper won't really work (I'm assuming that one is a manual one in the photo?).
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Looks great :)
A manual chopper won't really work (I'm assuming that one is a manual one in the photo?).
It might be but I'm definitely intending a powered one, just couldn't find a picture of the kind I'm considering.
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Fair enough. A cheap powered one should do you fine if you do small enough quantities. Metal blades will be a must though :)
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Welp, today disaster struck. >:(
After using that cluster of buildings for the picture I didn't put them away. I bumped them today and the buildings took a tumble. This was the first building cluster I made and the base was cut with shears, a very poor idea. This introduced a lot of stress into the CD used for the base and cracks had been forming for a while. All buildings cars etc popped of pretty cleanly, but I'll have to re-do the base.
(https://i.imgur.com/i9WBeun.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0Z3yEYQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TnM1UdJ.jpeg)
Luckily all details survived, only some minor chipping on one building that is easily hidden as wear and tear.
Now I need to decide though. This first cluser was a test I did before setting on a standardized base shape for my urban clusters. I really like the way they were laid out on it, but that wont translate perfectly to my new standard. So do I remake the non system original shape, or try to force it into the new system...
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That's a shame :(
I would stick with the original I think. Having been to Japan countless times what you have there is very reminiscent of a lot of the urban/suburban areas out there.
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Elk nadeel hep sen voordeel *snif* ;)
That looks pretty gnarly and is a real bummer indeed; a real Kaiju attack. But this does give you the opportunity to redo it better. Even when you reproduce the base exactly as it was, but in a more forgiving material, it's still an improvement... :)
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I would stick with the original I think. Having been to Japan countless times what you have there is very reminiscent of a lot of the urban/suburban areas out there.
Even if I change the base I would try to make it as close to how it was as possible, just slightly re-aranged to fit a new base shape. Maybe a bit more panel lines on the sidewalks to break it up more etc.
That looks pretty gnarly and is a real bummer indeed; a real Kaiju attack. But this does give you the opportunity to redo it better. Even when you reproduce the base exactly as it was, but in a more forgiving material, it's still an improvement... :)
Honestly, it was less the choice of material and more the way I cut it. Using plate shears instead of sitting down to saw it out properly.
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When I started out doing conversions etc, I had no plastic on hand other than CD jewel cases, and they were prone to shattering when you but looked at them crookedly.
I did a couple of projects with them, until I could get my hand on some proper plasticard, and I have not looked back since.
The disks themselves are more forgiving I reckon; they do have a bit of flex in them, but they still shatter. Why did you pick CD's for your bases? Especially when you then alter the shape anyways, wouldn't it have been easier to go the plasticard route?
Just curious :)
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plasticard that thickness still flexes a lot, or the stuff I could get locally does anyway. With such a large area having paint on one side is sure to cause warping, which would lift corners of the ground and make the section look it its floating rather than sitting on the table. That was my thinking at least. And I have to say, besides from this first one that was cut the wrong way, I do think they are holding up super well.
Honestly though I'm mostly surprised the 3d prints stood up to the fall, kinda expected them to shatter.
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Even if I change the base I would try to make it as close to how it was as possible, just slightly re-aranged to fit a new base shape. Maybe a bit more panel lines on the sidewalks to break it up more etc.
Sounds good :)
I can cut acrylic to any shape if that's of interest. I could even include score lines for pavements etc?
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Ouch! :o
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Yeah, that’s tragic when a beautiful model gets damaged. I’m glad to hear that the buildings came through mostly alright! Hopefully repairs won’t hold back progress on the project too much.
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I can cut acrylic to any shape if that's of interest. I could even include score lines for pavements etc?
ooh this is tempting, but at the same time I really do enjoy the physical craft aspect of it. I don't engrave much these days anymore despite spending hours on it in trade school etc.
I'm coming to the conclusion that I cant emulate the original layout on my new base shape. The buildings are all painted fully (even the hidden sides were) so I should just put them with my other painted buildings and start playing with them anew, find good layouts to use. The backstreet and side parking it had is something I haven't really captured in any of the other bases so that will be priority.
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Well if you do just drop me a line :)