Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: FAB on 29 February 2024, 01:12:11 PM
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I'm having a crack at doing some snazzy bases for the first time.
I'm going all out and using Milliput also for the first time.
I've watched some you tube videos and feel ready to give it a go.
I'm gonna make some puddle holes and some rivulet shapes and try some Vallejo water feature clear stuff as well to make a gloopy slimy wet style base for a heap of 3rd edition metal Plague bearers with commands for 3 units (around 80 of them) , some nurglings and a couple of chariots, old style tugged by slime beasts etc.
What would you use for this kind of activity?
DAS?
Milliput?
Green stuff?
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Milliput is best for bases. It is two part epoxy with a lot of filler (chalk I think). Easy to work and sticks well.
Green Stuff is also epoxy but is a lot sticker (so harder to use) and much more expensive.
DAS is air drying clay and does not stick well to plastic. It also shrinks.
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For bases I am using rollers or other molds on I am using milliput. For smooth bases (building up the base for figures with integral bases) I am using Apoxie sculpt. Don't try using Apoxie on a roller as it will just make a mess. ::)
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I use different stuff for bases depending on hat I want to achieve.
For my ACW army I used air drying car filler. It will leave a rough surface reminiscent of dry earth if smeared on half dried.
Often I use whatever leftover putty I have to model some base details like rocks onto minis on my "still to paint" shelf.
If I really intend to sculpt a fully detailed base or want to duplicate one using press molds I'll use my favourite sculpting recipe: a 50/50 blend of Green Stuff and Magic Sculpt.
If I need something NOW! Pattex repair epoxy is an option but to be honest it's often a complete mess. (I successfully used it to press mold enough windows for a whole building in just one hour though - as said it has it's time of uses)
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I use different stuff for bases depending on hat I want to achieve.
For my ACW army I used air drying car filler. It will leave a rough surface reminiscent of dry earth if smeared on half dried.
Doesn't that stuff stink to high heaven? I mean like really bloody toxic stench? I know I'm doing Nurgle bases but do I need to get that deep into roleplaying the miasma of Pestilence. :D
If I really intend to sculpt a fully detailed base or want to duplicate one using press molds I'll use my favourite sculpting recipe: a 50/50 blend of Green Stuff and Magic Sculpt.
Whoa. What is magic sculpt?
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Milliput is what I've always used. One trick from the old days is if you are building up around an integral base and are going for grass effect then get a toothbrush and use the bristles to give a texture to the milliput after it is on.
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For bases I am using rollers or other molds on I am using milliput. For smooth bases (building up the base for figures with integral bases) I am using Apoxie sculpt. Don't try using Apoxie on a roller as it will just make a mess. ::)
Oh My God !!
I just checked out the rollers available from Green Stuff World.
I think I need to sit down and have a cuppa... OMG.
What substance do you use with them?
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Rollers can be used with Milliput.
I use them a lot on hard foam and then apply paint afterwards.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50767326277_25c693b010_h.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51410224838_193f62f4e6_h.jpg)
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Oh My God !!
I just checked out the rollers available from Green Stuff World.
I think I need to sit down and have a cuppa... OMG.
What substance do you use with them?
Milliput. Use talcum as a mold release or it can stick in the corners.
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For urban bases, I use Blick Artists' Modelling Paste. It's thicker than gesso and has a bit of texture. I presume there's something comparable outside the US.
If you lay it on thick it will crack a bit when drying. That's a feature for my basing. They can be filled in with a bit more paste if you don't want them.
I work small amounts at a time and mix in a bit of powdered RIT dye in varying colour recipes. Just have to get used to judiging hardening time, and it will harden quicker with the dye powder added. After it sets, I drybrush.
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For muddy battlefields, I use wood putty, also with some RIT dye powder mixed in. If you don't mix the dye in too thoroughly, the mud colouring comes out nicely splotchy.
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Regarding Milliputty, it comes in different colours.
Do the different colours represent different behaviours/features for the outcome?
Do they have different properties? drying times? Or is it simply a colour element?
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The standard one is good for most wargame and modelling purposes.
https://www.milliput.com/products.html (https://www.milliput.com/products.html)
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What Mick said.
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*Place miliput standard on a mdf/plastic base
*Then drench it with water to make sure the putty doesn't stick
*Use a Greenstuff roller to texture it
*Let it harden
*Cut off the excess putty
*Use some sanding paper to sand the side of the base and smooth the putty/base joint
*Done!
(https://paintoholic.nl/images/1000/7239116/tonitrus1.jpg)