Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Kikuchiyo on 25 September 2025, 04:30:13 PM
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I've a few out of production bits I need more of and thought I'd try my hand at a bit of moulding rather than trying to sculpt what I need.
I was wondering if anyone had any tips?
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Yes, Ive tried it on a home made wrapped body,
I wrot a bit about it on here
https://theaircavsaga.blogspot.com/2025/09/the-hollow-re-skin-wrapped-dead-body.html (https://theaircavsaga.blogspot.com/2025/09/the-hollow-re-skin-wrapped-dead-body.html)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirypBygDg13US5pu91mTFhZYwePY5mNVhho5X1tHleDfIvob4kRiCRxYTVqyZY4F9zA_-w6G5caYvOIDnzH5ipZIALX6KBWlofwkz3trd-n_Xb_s0bJQGyOZkh6qbeFYEIImSHq2n7RNxdKHn_8GXFUGpDNw2aWpJmiBr6ON1CwMgTJqyc1xivxLTRWqA/s4080/20250813_072854026_iOS.jpg)
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You mean Oyumaru? It comes in every colour imagineable (Mine's clear for instance).
But yes; I've used it many times and find it really useful too :)
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Certainly looks like it. Oyumaru was repackaged, marked up and sold as InstantMold at one point. It now looks like GSW are in on the act.
Tips? A lot depends of what you're trying to do with it. Simple one piece moulds for copying single surfaces. Two part moulds (with lugs for alignment formed with the end of a paintbrush or similar) for when you want both sides.
Putty shouldn't stick to it so there shouldn't be any need to lubricate your mould. Pick a putty that suits your needs. Some swear by a mix of green stuff and Milliput for capturing detail and not breaking easily. You probably want something you can readily carve or sand to get rid of any flash. Best to have a play & see what works for you.
FWIW, my latest experiments have been with Geomfix which sets hard, tough and replicates detail well. It can be carved and sanded.
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I moulded some 1:87 M3 halftrack track assemblies for Roco Minitanks missing one each, using blue stuff for the mould. Greenstuff was pushed in and was flexible enough to be removed. Some bits didn't mould very well, but it was good enough.
Deep undercuts may be a problem.
Neil
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I made a little press-mold jig out of lego; basically a chamber made from walls using regular bricks, and a plunger with flat tiles on the bottom to squish everything down while hot.
I used it to create some control panels for sci-fi terrain.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1468/24759600362_88365f2dc8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DHVqzq)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1481/24529821513_fef3347309_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DnBKk8)
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I made a little press-mold jig out of lego; basically a chamber made from walls using regular bricks, and a plunger with flat tiles on the bottom to squish everything down while hot.
I used it to create some control panels for sci-fi terrain.
Nice; that worked especially well.
I've only used free moulding so far, but a jig will allow for far less warping and higher pressure, making for sharper moulds. I will try this; thanks :)
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Great, looks like the project is a go once I've grabbed some
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I’m making a start on a F&IW project using Blue Stuff and Spencer Smith minis as a base.
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I do the same as Supercollider, it really improves your moulds and results by a big factor.
I use(d) it a lot to make destroyed tanks and vehicles in 1/300 and 1/600 as it is a bit of a waste to destroy perfectly good models otherwise, but also for small scatter items I only ever had 1 of.
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I’m making a start on a F&IW project using Blue Stuff and Spencer Smith minis as a base.
That looks like a lot of time spent carving away flash :? A good way to produce something unique though, with a bit of modification to your master figure.
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It’s a ‘retirement project’ ;-) The mounted officer will, with luck, have one hand shading his eyes when I’m finished. As I’ve worked with SS plastics before, I’m used to carving flash! Only looking at 50 figures, anyway - just enough for a skirmish using Featherstone’s rules.
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You have more patience 5am me. (He says, sat here making 40 powder horns for Jannisary conversions!)