Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Back of Beyond => Topic started by: Hammers on September 03, 2010, 08:35:05 PM
-
Well, taking care of the effing offspring, thats what. And the wife. But the role as moderator doesn't leave you to make excuses about your profane life so I've been thinking lately I have to show some kind of activity to maintain my creed around here. I've *have* been painting some stuff so here a piece of what I'm up to...
My method of painting white washed rocks, camp street demarcations, the use for...
(http://www.adventuregaming.tsome.com/NWF/WhitewashedStones.jpg)
And here's a 2'2' camp modular piece for my 4'8' NWF board.
(http://www.adventuregaming.tsome.com/NWF/HospCam.jpg)
Half done, can you picture what it is supposed to be?
Inspiration taken from here...
(http://www.adventuregaming.tsome.com/NWF/4308125251_89b9c4a753_b.jpg)
-
Looking good!
Are those the Warlord tents? If so, how do you like them?
-
I was asking my self the same question after contemplating your VBCW stuff (cricketers etc.). Nice to see something interesting the works! How many 2x2 boards are there going to be in the end?
-
Well, I have prepped ten 2x2' boards of which I'll use between six or eight to make up a 4' by 6' to 8' gameboard.
-
Next:
(http://www.adventuregaming.tsome.com/NWF/Baracks.jpg)
The main barracks of the camp. It will be a sort of tent-carpentry affair. The structure, being very close to a real construction is quite sturdy but I will probably glue some lead sheet beneath the floor boards to make it rest even more solidly on the game board.
(http://www.adventuregaming.tsome.com/NWF/BarackCloseup.jpg)
A close up before I send the sailmakers in for the first canvas fitting.
(http://www.adventuregaming.tsome.com/NWF/1stBarrackToTall.jpg)
Flashback: my first attempt. I designed it form a practical standpoint, meaning I did the comparative measurements from a 28mm figure, but the result made the structure tower over the tents. I cut it down heigthwise with about 12mm to make it look more squat.
-
Nice work Peder. You just got to love the painted rocks!
Reminds me of my early days in the army where on RSM's work detail we painted curbs etc.
Keep up the grand work,
Helen
-
Painting rocks white... brings back memories.. of a sort lol
-
Thanks, Helen. When I saw that picture with the whitewashed rocks I realized something I've been misunderstanding for about 20 years now. There's a passage in Väinö Linna's "Unknown Soldier" (stonking war novel, one of my absolute favourites, I'd recommend it to anyone) where two of the protagonists are on penal duty white washing rocks along the trench to the officers bunker. I always thought they were there for reasons of pointless vanity thus explaining the soldiers profound resentment to the task.
I wonder why I never before realized that they are there to help you seeing where you are going at night.
-
It looks great, Hammers!
Just out of curiosity, since I'm considering doing some 2x2 boards, have you found a supplier for 60x60cm styor, or is it just a 120x60 that you cut in half? The second option is such a hassle and I'll just probably end up worshipping the devil and cursing the manufacturer...
-
120x60
This -^
I had it cut for me, with precision, by the lumberyard men. I also had 5mm MDF cut to the same size so all squares have a rigid backing. It seems like this makes them able to take some considerable amount of beating. They have survived three house moves so far. The problem is that most XPS I've found have ridged edges, which means that if you are not willing to scrap a lot of material, the ridges have to be cut off and glued to the other sided.
-
Looking very nice there Hammers. Do you have more to do on the ground work? I'm only asking because it looks very realistic as it is.
cheers
James
-
Looking very nice there Hammers. Do you have more to do on the ground work? I'm only asking because it looks very realistic as it is.
cheers
James
Just a few scares sprinkles of dry static grass, perhaps a few tufts to.
The board is covered with Celluclay (paper mache) mixed with white glue and wood stain. While it was still wet I sprinkled a mix of aquarium sand and gravel on it and used a rolling pin to get an even playable but still fairly rough looking game board. When dry I sprayed the surface in spots and from an angle to get some colour variation.
I may have to go with a darker wood stain next time, meaning I may have to restain this board. Oy vey...
-
It works very well :) How sturdy is it, I'm sure elbows on the top wouldn't be apprieciated lol (like on my boards :-[ )
cheers
James
-
It works very well :) How sturdy is it, I'm sure elbows on the top wouldn't be apprieciated
I forgot to say. It is very sturdy and slightly flexible. It definitely won't crack. The combination of cellulose fibres (Celluclay is finely shredded (news-)paper and wall paper glue) and white glue makes it very tough. *And* it dries to a very nice packed dirt texture. Not expensive either, esp. if you make your own paper mache. I opted for buying mine over flebay since for the amount of shredded paper needed, you better use the food processor. This may not be approved of by other agents in the family.
-
Grrr, I just noticed to my great chagrin, that the board has warped. I thought I had countered this by backing the board with 5mm MDF but obviously I have underestimated the lifting power of shrinking Celluclay. Shit. Pants. Arse.
-
Bugger :(
-
Nice Peder. Looks great! ;D
-
Slice / remove backing board and adhere to new board to save work todate?
-
Slice / remove backing board and adhere to new board to save work todate?
I am considering slitting the paper mache surface in a criss cross fashion to release the tension and then spackle the cuts...
-
I feel with you :( I hope you will be able to restore it without too much effort.
Nevertheless quite inspiring and instructive.
-
I am considering slitting the paper mache surface in a criss cross fashion to release the tension and then spackle the cuts...
You sure that it will help? If the MDF have startet to warp, I don't think that slitting the machier will help the tension to go normal. Or is it like cutting a pack of vaccumed meat?
-
You sure that it will help? If the MDF have startet to warp, I don't think that slitting the machier will help the tension to go normal. Or is it like cutting a pack of vaccumed meat?
You are possibly right, but on the other hand you have a 50mm thick sheet of XPS which wants the MDF to retain its original shape. Anyway, it is not horribly warped, just not perfectly flat, so I may jut let this one be.
I *am* however disappointed since I have done a lot of experiments linky (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=7522.0) and thought I was well prepared for the shrinkage (If a man ever can). The material is perfect in all other aspects: texture is great, it will hold up to a lot of wear and tear, cheap... :?
-
What I've done earlier is to smash on some filler mixed with a lot of water. That usually makes sure that the styrofoam goes stiff as hell, and will probably avoid shrinkage from your machier :) We're talking 20 parts water 1 part filler, so its really messy...
-
What I've done earlier is to smash on some filler mixed with a lot of water. That usually makes sure that the styrofoam goes stiff as hell, and will probably avoid shrinkage from your machier :) We're talking 20 parts water 1 part filler, so its really messy...
But you use the expanded stuff, don't you? 'Frigolit'? I use XPS, 'pink foam' which already is much more rigid.
-
But you use the expanded stuff, don't you? 'Frigolit'? I use XPS, 'pink foam' which already is much more rigid.
I use both, and the expanded stuff does obviously warp more than the XPS, but I've had XPS-boards that've warped beoynd recognition twice. Take the mix and just press it in the board, like baking bread. It'll make sure that at least the top layer is a bit more stiffer and it usually takes away all the warping. But I'm pretty sure that the MDF is the culprit, and that the pressure from the MDF combined with the machier makes the XPS goes 'Plong!'. Have you tried mounting the XPS on the MDF after the machier has set?
I have a friend who's a doctor in those (for real, he did 8 years of research on it), he might have some calcules or answers to this issue if you want to find out more on the issue.
/S
-
Well, that sucks. Hope you manage to repair it, because it looked very very promising.
-
Great work hammers, I especially like the main structure.
A real shame about the warp in the backing board. Have you tried clamping the mdf to a rigid surface like a workbench while fixing the paper mache? I haven't tried it myself but maybe cutting shallow lines in the backboard to create some flex with which to flatten it out (much like if you were trying to introduce a curve) could help. After (if) it's straightened, then some thin superglue run into the cuts might 'set' the shape (or, given that MDF is just wood dust and glue, start a fire!).
Good luck
EDITED for ridiculous typo!
-
I have already backed all ten 2x2' boards with 5mm MDF so I am hoping for a solution where I don't have to pry them off the XPS before I do the Celluclay.
I have considered clamping but somehow I doubt it will help. Unless I am a complete idiot in physics the tension will build up regardless of the clamping and as soon as they are gone they board will warp anyway.
-
How about pva-ing some newspaper to the underneath, that might help to counter-act the warping.
cheers
James
-
Ooooh dear.
I must say, I've never known MDF boards to warp, so not sure how you've managed it Peder... :(
The surface looks great though :)
-
Heres a trick a carpenter told me years ago...
When you have the board wet and ready to set, put in ontop of a large sheet of MDF/wood/whatever and the screw up into it from the under side THROUGH the large sheet.
For exmple:
Scenic board backing 20mm thick.
Large sheet of solid whatever 70mm thick.
Buy some 90mm screws.
Then screw them up through the large sheet of whatever and into the backing of teh scenic board.
Leave to dry for however many days....
Unscrew the screws.
Flat dry scenic board.
Repeat process everytime you want a flat board.
-
I must say, I've never known MDF boards to warp, so not sure how you've managed it
I did manage it once when attaching terrain paper using PVA. I guess the mild-ish warp was caused by the PVA soaking through the backing paper and bringing together the flock fibres. On that occasion lots of weight (books) and clamps at the edges straightened it out, I guess by breaking the glue joint between the flock fibres.
I now use a latex based adhesive (copydex) that doesn't soak through the paper to the flock fibres; result = no warping.
-
working in patches might help avoid warping :)
-
working in patches might help avoid warping :)
I've considered this to.
-
Thanks but this would probably fuck up the artfully sculpted features ::) of the ground work. You'd have to do something quite intricate to make it work.
Heres a trick a carpenter told me years ago...
When you have the board wet and ready to set, put in ontop of a large sheet of MDF/wood/whatever and the screw up into it from the under side THROUGH the large sheet.
For exmple:
Scenic board backing 20mm thick.
Large sheet of solid whatever 70mm thick.
Buy some 90mm screws.
Then screw them up through the large sheet of whatever and into the backing of teh scenic board.
Leave to dry for however many days....
Unscrew the screws.
Flat dry scenic board.
Repeat process everytime you want a flat board.
-
Ooooh dear.
I must say, I've never known MDF boards to warp, so not sure how you've managed it Peder... :(
The surface looks great though :)
Thanks Richard. As I said, the shrinkage and adhesiveness of Cellyclay and white glue is mighty powerful.
-
Maybe a little late for my method of making gaming boards -
I used 2" x 1" prepared pine battens to make the base and added a support across the centre. I then added 5mm MDF on top. Undulating terrain could then be sculpted in using pieces of ceiling tiles or pink/blue foam which was then covered with a mix of plaster/PVA glue and tea leaves, coffee grounds or sawdust.
Low lying areas were made by cutting out a section of the MDF and gluing a piece underneath. Rivers, canals, ditches had the upper pice of MDF cut away and the edges built up with battens and the base added from MDF. If the river, canal, ditch extened either side of the board additional battens were added to strengthen the board,
Not quite as light as foam/mdf but rigid and never lost any edges.
-
A bit of progress with the hospital tent:
(http://www.adventuregaming.tsome.com/NWF/Hospitaltent001.JPG)
Clothed and planked and the Red Cross has stamped its mark of approval on it. There is another cross on the other side and I will probably paint another (smaller one) one the the end wall to. The planks were stained in different colors to give an impression off slap-togetherness.
The doors (there is another one on the other end ) have working hinges.
The sail cloth was fastened with super-glue, strengthened with diluted white glue and air sprayed with three shades of tan, ending with white.
-
Awesome!!!! :o
-
Nownow...
-
I like it a lot!
What type of sailing cloth?
-
A linen cotton mix. Prewashed.
-
A linen cotton mix. Prewashed.
Are we talking about real sailing cloth or the hobby version of sailing cloth here?
-
Now now? When this is going to be set on your plate and kinda tied to it (figuratively and literally :D), it will look amazing!
-
Are we talking about real sailing cloth or the hobby version of sailing cloth here?
No, cotton cloth would surely look much to coarse. It's fabric meant for clothes, nicked from the wife's chest of such things. Discarded bed sheets gives you a weave which is closer to scale if you want to simulate canvas.
Thank you all for your kind comments.