Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Galland on 01 May 2011, 01:30:43 PM
-
Ohoy from Isla Sartosa!
I am wondering if anyone have a good tutorial for creating the look of distressed wood, the grey kind. Any help with this would me much appreciated! :)
-
Rough it up with some course sandpaper along the grain, then paint it grey and really go to town on the weathering :)
Try different paints (craft paints being the best for this) and different weathering techniques ; inks, pastels etc.
cheers
James
-
I usually drydrush mine in several shades of grey (VGC Cold Grey, VCG Stonewall Grey, VGC Wolf Grey, occasionally mixed with a bit of VMC Pale Sand), and then apply a few brown and green washes over it. No real tutorial (or even detail shots), but you can see it in a few pictures of my derelict industrial board:
(http://pictures.pardulon-models.com/workbench/ub3.jpg)
(http://pictures.pardulon-models.com/workbench/ub4.jpg)
(http://pictures.pardulon-models.com/workbench/ub5.jpg)
(http://pictures.pardulon-models.com/workbench/ub7.jpg)
As James said, paint it grey and go to town on the weathering :)
-
Ah, well this is what I had in mind, but the results I have got so far was just not to my liking, or satisfaction really. But I will try out some new techniques and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the suggestions! :)
-
I've always meant to try this product...
http://www.micromark.com/Weather-It-4-fl-oz,7266.html (http://www.micromark.com/Weather-It-4-fl-oz,7266.html)
...but ordering it from Micro-Mark US is a bit prohibitive. Does anyone know what it is? Some kind of acid or sulphide?
-
Then there's of course this article: http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4083
A bit hard to navigate (there are links to more pictures under the pictures, which I discovered only quite a while after first reading the article), but well worth the time.
-
I've always meant to try this product...
http://www.micromark.com/Weather-It-4-fl-oz,7266.html (http://www.micromark.com/Weather-It-4-fl-oz,7266.html)
...but ordering it from Micro-Mark US is a bit prohibitive. Does anyone know what it is? Some kind of acid or sulphide?
I believe it's some sort of weak acid and I used to know (many years ago) someone who tried a similar sort of thing, the problem he found was that you have to be extremely careful when gluing the wood as, with stains, the glue marks will show up.
cheers
James
-
I believe it's some sort of weak acid and I used to know (many years ago) someone who tried a similar sort of thing, the problem he found was that you have to be extremely careful when gluing the wood as, with stains, the glue marks will show up.
cheers
James
Same problem as with stains. I stain things before I glue them.
-
I generally do a mid grey then a black wash then dry-brushed white to all the hard edges.
I then follow this up with a greeny brown runny mix in the areas that would be affected by run-off, for a 'damp/mouldy' stain (suggested to me by JB many moons ago and works rather effectively).
-
I make this fence a few days ago:
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/SirAlban/fin2.jpg)
I use balsa wood, cutted whit my hands for a distressed look and painted whit black + bone white and some washes in english uniform (all from Vallejo).
The nails are just carved sunking the metal head from a mechanical pencil into the wood.
-
Very nice, Doctor...
-
Military Modelling magazine's website has some nice terrain making articles. This one below has some tips on wood.
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4084 (http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4084)
-
Thank you very much guys, this is very helpful, and I am sure I will find some way to get this to work! :D
-
Do show us what you come up with :)
cheers
James
-
Hehe, I will. I am working on several buildings and some jettys for our pirate table, and run in to some issues. But I think I got it to where I want it now.
Wood frames for the framed buildings, where I wanted tar painted wood going slightly gray, and they turned out fine. But I first ruined it by using brown ink on black painted wood. It looked like utter crap, sort of a orange diarrhea shine. Very disturbing.
I then gave the black wood a wash with a Valejo dark brown instead, and drybrushed with grey, much better result.
-
Here's a link to several good downloadable pdf's on weathering and staining stripwood. I think the railway modelling guys have developed techniques for just about everything!
http://www.rustystumps.com/HowToArticles.asp
-
I find the trick is to give the grey weathered wood a bit of a greeny tinge - mix a bit of khaki into the blend. Old timber is rarely pure grey - it's normally got a bit of a hue from moss or algae...
-
For my adobe buildings where the climate is hot and the wood sun bleached I use watered down burnt umber acrylic paint straight from the tube, drybrushed with bleached bone.
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/1/86_25_08_08_2_07_43.jpg)
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/7/86_16_08_10_8_30_08_0.jpg)
-
Something that I've used to good effect is to actually paint the wood, as if it were to be painted in real life or white-washed. Then, I will dry-brush a dark brown on top of the white painted surface. Lightly on flat surfaces and more pronounced where edges meet or where wear would be excessive.
I know! I know! This violates the basic rule of dry-brushing where you're supposed to put lighter colors on top of darker ones, but if you have the texture there, then use it. Painted wood will wear off at the surface and edges and leave the house paint between the fibers. Structures that have this kind of wear look awful, and it would be especially handy for scenes near the water, where they typically paint wood to preserve it. Looks really dirty and nasty.
I used it for some of my Zombietown buildings. Works well.