Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: 6milPhil on 01 June 2011, 10:06:43 PM
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I'm building a few bits with the devil's own material... foam board. Which glue can I safely use on the edges without melting the foam... acid for blood etc...
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I use wood glue. works perfect and since it's waterbased no melting.
BTW : if you're using 5mm board think of buying a rabbet cutter (http://www.foamboardsource.com/rabbit-cutter.html). very handy item.
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Second that, wood glue=white glue=PVA glue is the only? Option
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As the other chaps have said and Copydex too, does the job nicely.
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well, if you use it you will have good results for small pieces. But if you are planning to glue big pieces, sometimes happens that the two pieces will split after several days, because it takes a very long time to dry!
so you can use some other glues that are not air-drying, but i don't know which... i'd go with the pva, with any risks involved! :(
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well, if you use it you will have good results for small pieces. But if you are planning to glue big pieces, sometimes happens that the two pieces will split after several days, because it takes a very long time to dry!
I use Express glue. dries quick. Also, I squeeze an amount onto a pallet and use some cardboard to apply the glue and smear it onto the surface. less glue = less drying time.
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Your best bet is a builders merchants wood glue as they are a damn sight stronger than normal pva and they are usually water proof. Go for 'own brand' and you'll more than likely save yourself a bob or two.
cheers
James
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Hmmm, but PVA takes so long to dry. Also found with attaching plasticard it just won't bond well enough. Am I really limited to PVA/woodglue? :o
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Hmmm, but PVA takes so long to dry. Also found with attaching plasticard it just won't bond well enough. Am I really limited to PVA/woodglue? :o
Well, I have heard from one guy he used some kind of superglue in spraycan (something from 3M) to fix vines or ivy on a piece of terrain that was made from bluefoam. He claimed the glue dried so fast it didn't have the time to melt the foam.
Never tried it myself though. Guess those can must cost enough, too.
as for gluing plasticard. as long as it's glued to the paper part use superglue.
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For paper surface to paper surface I generally use Bostik as it's instant grip.
For foam to anything else, I use a waterproof wood glue but not a discount version as they tend to be wetter and so longer drying.
Waterproof wood glue is also useful for sealing the foam edge prior to spray undercoating.
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Copydex is quite easy to work with (apart from the smell). It's a latex rubber based cement and doesn't take long to dry, until it does it remains flexible but maintains the bond.............. just like rubber.
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Hmmm, but PVA takes so long to dry. Also found with attaching plasticard it just won't bond well enough. Am I really limited to PVA/woodglue? :o
Have more patience!! ;)
PVA/woodglue is great for foam board, for buildings I tend to pin then joints too. If you're cladding it with plasticard then you'll need to consider alternatives, glue gun? Or why not clad after you've constructed.
Of course with direct access to Ian, I'm suprised you haven't been given any number of adhesive options and FX trade secrets rather than asking us bunch of amatures! ;)
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For paper surface to paper surface I generally use Bostik as it's instant grip.
Thats my preferred adhesive for that sort of thing too, particularly if a lot of accuracy is required. Hot glue can work brilliantly if precision isnt paramount.
I find hot glue indispensable for terrain work. A bead of hot glue applied to the inside of corners in box shapes helps a lot with durability.