Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Plynkes on November 15, 2007, 03:38:25 PM
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Hiya chaps. I need to paint some toy animals made from bendy plastic in a bit of a hurry, and the stuff just chips off once dry if you're not ultra-careful when handling them.
I seem to recall reading some tips for this sort of thing somewhere, but don't remember where. Is there anything you can do to make them take paint better? Or are they a lost cause? Probably only going to use them once, so it doesn't really matter, I suppose.
Cheers.
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Slightly thinned PVA over the figure is supposed to work. If you can find one of those plastic-specific spray paints, that'll work as well. Avoid regular spray paint, as it will reduce the figure to a soggy clump of liver-shredding chemicals that never dry.
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Actually I did spray paint the first one as a test. It turned out okay melty-plastic-wise, but the damn paint keeps flaking off whenever I pick it up.
I'll give the PVA thing a try. I think that is the thing I had heard before and was trying to remember.
Ta, Pete.
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There is also a hardening agent you can brush on. A friend of a friend uses it on his extensive 1/72nd collection. It is expensive, smelly, and hard to find though.
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Actually I did spray paint the first one as a test. It turned out okay melty-plastic-wise, but the damn paint keeps flaking off whenever I pick it up.
I'll give the PVA thing a try. I think that is the thing I had heard before and was trying to remember.
Ta, Pete.
I used that method and it works fine. Some plastics seems to be oilier than others. I usually wash these strong detergent, acetone or some similar threats to the environment.
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Actually I did spray paint the first one as a test. It turned out okay melty-plastic-wise, but the damn paint keeps flaking off whenever I pick it up.
I'll give the PVA thing a try. I think that is the thing I had heard before and was trying to remember.
Ta, Pete.
Hello!
If the PVA Glue (you are talking about) is that white glue used for wood and paper, then that is a right choice!
A friend of mine mixes that glue with some water and paints the miniature with that, afterwards you can start your regular painting! he uses that on 1/72 plastic soldiers for better painting results!
Cheers!
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While this might not be exactly the same issue, I've tried painting the bases of the collectable DnD minis and found that if I don't spray a couple of coats of clear finish on first, the paint doesn't cover very well. It has to do with the kind of chemicals/oils that are in the plastic that the minis are cast from. You end up getting a tacky/sticky finish that you can't paint over and never really stops being tacky, if you don't spray the clear coat first.
I'm wondering if you did the same with your animals if it would work. I don't remember exactly which paint I used, but more than likely it was testor's clear coat.
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Well the problem wasn't tackiness, the paint dried perfectly. It's just that it flaked off later when the model was handled, leaving patches of unpainted plastic on the model.
I've tried the PVA thing out, and given it the first coat of black on top of that. The test will come when it comes to the next stage.
If this fails, I may give your suggestion a try. Or I might just give up. :)
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I used to undercoat my plastic mini with PVA and water. Else i read you can varnish first.
Else did you try enamel paint ?
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Else did you try enamel paint ?
Enamles are no god. They flake even worse than acrylics on bendy plastic.
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I don't know if this is the answer, but it's worth a try: I have painted some soft plastic 1/72 figs with rifles and bayonets. As you all know, that's where the paint flakes off most easily. However, instead of paint I used acrylic ink, mostly because it was a job in a hurry (figs were undercoated grey). Not only did the ink stick well, but it tended to "bend" with the rifles rather than giving way.
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An alternative to PVA is artist's gesso and works on the same principle. I have not tried it but it ought to work I should think.
Cheers, Richard
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Perhaps the solution isn't in the priming.
You might want to try giving the finished minis a coat of Future (Klear/Klir/Sols Plus) or maybe Army Painter Dip.
If your protective layer doesn't break I'd assume that what lies underneath won't either and from what I've heard those products provide a serious protective layer.
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Try Krylon Fusion for the base coat and highlight from there. It has a mild solvent in it and it adheres to any plastic that I have used it on. http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-for-plastic/ (http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-for-plastic/)
Hope that helps.
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Make sure you wash them first.
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Try Krylon Fusion for the base coat and highlight from there. It has a mild solvent in it and it adheres to any plastic that I have used it on. http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-for-plastic/ (http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-for-plastic/)
Hope that helps.
I second this. If I'm correct, this was a product developed by/for the auto industry so that they can make plastic coated parts easier. Your problem seems to be that the paint forms a shell that does not bond to the plastic, so that when the plastic moves, the 'shell' does not move with it and actually works its way off. It's not bonding.
Hard plastics, and even metal, should be washed because of the release agent, but that does not sound like your case. It's the chemical composition of the plastic and I agree with the Krylon solution.
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There is also a hardening agent you can brush on. A friend of a friend uses it on his extensive 1/72nd collection. It is expensive, smelly, and hard to find though.
and how ist it called or what does it consist of?
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I tried the PVA trick on some cheap and nasty sontaran figures I got.
My experience is that the PVA does not bond to the figure either, but instead it forms a complete shell that is somewhat more resistant to flaking then just plain paint.
If you get a nick in the PVA, the whole thing just flakes off and you're better recoating entirely.
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Wash them, prime them, then seal them when done.
I have dozens and dozens painted that way, and they are fine.
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I had already posted this in another thread but it looks like it could solve your problem:
I have some plastic dino's to paint and a friend of mine who is using nothing but 'bendy' plastics these days recommends spraying the plastic figures / animals with Aleene's Tacky Glue which does dry and then a coating of Krylon Fusion for Plastic.
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While this might not be exactly the same issue, I've tried painting the bases of the collectable DnD minis and found that if I don't spray a couple of coats of clear finish on first, the paint doesn't cover very well. It has to do with the kind of chemicals/oils that are in the plastic that the minis are cast from. You end up getting a tacky/sticky finish that you can't paint over and never really stops being tacky, if you don't spray the clear coat first.
I'm wondering if you did the same with your animals if it would work. I don't remember exactly which paint I used, but more than likely it was testor's clear coat.
I have quite a collection of DnD figures and I have just started to paint the bases and add flock etc. I cant say I have had any issues with paint sticking. I'm using the most recent version of GW paint and also some Remmill paints.
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Have you tried giving one a good coat of thin superglue - well ventilated of course?
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Reaper Bones have that same problem, the Krylon acting as a primer works.
I have had the same problem with WOTC Star Wars figures. So I pick out the best, usually humans or near humans with a head swap, for Traveller, cast them up in resin. This way I can carve and an add detail, swap, sculpt to my own content. Is it cheap? No but considering the cost of the figure in the first place, its ok, beside I'm into quality. My next little project is a home made spin caster.
I did an experiment years ago trying to strip some prepainted plastic and I found that brush cleaner, stiffens the plastic by almost 50%, not enough for me to stop the casting, but FIY.
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Just read today about soaking plastic figures in white vinegar to very slightly etch the surface for better paint adhesion. Anyone ever tried that?