Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Colonial Adventures => Topic started by: FifteensAway on 18 September 2011, 06:25:09 AM
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So, I was admiring Bezzo's very nice colonial fort and then noticed that either his base was warped or the surface it was photographed on was uneven - though I'm betting the former.
My question is what materials have you used successfully without having any warping once done. I, like Bezzo, am working in 15 mm (does the name give it away? 8))
I am in the early stages of a Very Large modeling project and would appreciate your feedback. Thanks.
FifteensAway casting off
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Perspex is the material of choice for me for minimal warpage. Give it a good key with heavy grit sandpaper and you're good to go.
If using MDF or some other such wooden base material don't forget to counter the warpage by pva-ing the underneath :)
cheers
James
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Hi
Mate Masonite seems to work well ,but is hard to handle( cut )
Cheers
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2" steel sheet? :D
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I can certainly commiserate :'( warping is a huge annoyance especially as it starts to happen very often after the build is complete and one sees ones model slowly ruin... This damaging process is that much more marked in 25 to 28mm as the surface area is that much larger. Sealing both sides with glue, paint and varnish before you begin certainly helps. Steel has the disadvantages of being difficult to cut as well as then weight, not to mention rust and a tendency to impale you. Recently I used cork dinner place mats, which are great. Glue the building to the cork side which is slightly absorbent and the bottom is then supported by plastic, paper and a harder wood - being a layered type structure it takes a lot for it to warp. Cork place mats can easily be cut with a junior hack-saw and the edges beveled with a scalpel to meld into surrounding terrain, important for me as I hate stepped thick looking bases. Thick plastic card can also work well and to strengthen it you can glue progressive layers of it together to avoid future warping, each layer being slightly smaller than the first - if that makes any sense. I have not tried just plain cork sheets but my feeling is they would be a tad weak. I find water based wood glues to be the biggest culprits because as they dry they shrink so I now try to stick my building onto the base with other glues like super-glue or epoxy glue, whereby drying is not going to be potentially damaging. Similarly if building up the base with clays then wet clays like Das can be a problem so rather use an epoxy 2 part clay like Milliput or the cheaper hardware varieties which can then help strengthen the base and can be detailed to look attractive with rocks and detailing etc.
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Thanks to all for their replies so far, especially Golgotha for his thoughtful and complete replye. As to using 2" steel - if you'll cut it and shape if for me - and buy it - and transport, at all at no expense to me, I'm there. lol
Other ideas happily welcomed.
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IMHE all bases warp to some extent, the best I've found for minimum warpage is the humble placemat, also helps to get all your scenics on similar sized bases.
(http://assets.curbly.com/photos/0000/0006/1202/placemat.jpg)
I use dinner plate sized ones;
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/9314/dscf3392g.jpg)
and cup sized;
(http://6milphil.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/dsc00732.jpg)
warpage is minimum and the cork base makes it non-slip, HURRAH!
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Spot on 6milPhil that is what I was talking about the old humble placemat...
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Thanks to all for their replies so far, especially Golgotha for his thoughtful and complete replye. As to using 2" steel - if you'll cut it and shape if for me - and buy it - and transport, at all at no expense to me, I'm there. lol
Other ideas happily welcomed.
Yes, sorry not very helpful was I?
A great material is the stuff sign makers use. There is a guy who makes signs in the unit next to my workshop, and he gives me off cuts sometimes, so asking at your nearest sign makers could pay off. Its basically a sheet of plastic with thin steel laminated over it. Its possible to cut with a hacksaw. But its light and very strong, so will only warp in very large sections. Its about 5mm thick, so as Golotha hates it will have a lip, but that can be disguised.
My own method for warping is to expect it! Wait for the stuff to warp, then remodel the base. Sometimes this can be as simple as adding some filler, especially if its a ruined terrain piece.
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Gatorboard/Gatorfoam works quite well. Plus it is lightweight and fairly easy to cut.