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Having basically ruined the big board with the use of Realistic Water >:( I've moved on to an ice board for use with 15mm fantasy Inuit figures from MY miniatures (http://www.spanglefish.com/mickyarrowminiatures/index.asp?pageid=192885)
As normal full details can be found on my main blog www.blog.kings-sleep.me.uk (http://www.blog.kings-sleep.me.uk) but here are a couple of pictures of the naked board:
The basic cake board:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WOPtkXgURPg/To_9z6zjEqI/AAAAAAAAClk/5-hpyAj0fac/s640/DSC01217%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
With the foam stuck on:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VAjnJPvnUII/To_95Tti27I/AAAAAAAACl8/zX9aN0GKDHc/s640/DSC01232%25255B3%25255D.jpg)]
Next step is to coat the board with Flex Paste to remove the flat surface and fill in the join.
Andrew
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That already looks pretty good. I'm guessing your other board can't be saved at all?
Duncan
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I think I have become so discouraged by the bubbles from the Scenic Water that I really do not want to use it!
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I know the feeling, now I just paint and use gloss varnish or PVA.
Duncan
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A couple more shots now with the second layer of Flex Paste on it:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8qeBkhhSkXI/TpFkxf_8P2I/AAAAAAAACmE/nuw0Ew93zpQ/s640/DSC01235%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x8YiKBFrCSQ/TpFkzVkAz3I/AAAAAAAACmM/NhrYIEl3YSY/s640/DSC01236%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
The join in the boards (shown here (http://www.blog.kings-sleep.me.uk/2011/10/its-snowed-again.html)) did not cover well but once paint / scatter is added it will be fine for day to day gaming.
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Looking good! Thanks for posting the step-by-step. :)
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Managed to get the board covered in white household paint today (but spots still wet - hence the touch of pink in places)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P7i_mlcT2tQ/TpsuFg5W0WI/AAAAAAAACto/sMhQTaA7iYM/s640/DSC01280%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Still to lighten the edges, dry brush and add crackle glaze over it.
Any ideas how to easily add colour into the cracks? I was thinking a wash and dry brush
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I had planned to use a crackle glaze on the water but wondering about the Galeria Large Grain Gel acrylic medium:
First paint Anita's Ocean Blue over Woodland Scenics flex paste:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-51_NQyzVVx0/TqbwK6fhwII/AAAAAAAACuE/U1wmbIrfoSQ/s400/DSC01377.JPG)
Then cover in medium:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JOJe9CjvtK8/TqbwLmJ1akI/AAAAAAAACuI/goB1fJNCaWE/s400/DSC01378.JPG)
and let dry for a couple of hours:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j9MIRAhMQps/TqbwMgftFII/AAAAAAAACuM/b5p2rLrdWN4/s400/DSC01381.JPG)
OK I plastered it on a bit thick so give it a couple more hours:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-464SO_PyIj8/TqbwNmQGn7I/AAAAAAAACuQ/6BYL0nInxQ0/s400/DSC01382.JPG)
Not the greatest effect but quite interesting as the light moves over it. Depth wise I do not think it will impact the figures as the blue foam here is 10mm thick and you can only just see the gel:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YJA1GcXLO0o/TqbwOR8waaI/AAAAAAAACuU/mzNVeXdECYg/s400/DSC01383.JPG)
Thoughts / comments / criticisms folks ?
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Looks good, though the pictures I've seen of arctic/antarctic waters, the water seems to be a little darker, though the tone seems perfect. It might also help to create a little more depth to the ice as you'd get greater contrast between the darker colours underneath and the glossy shine.
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS4qBXrc9rdLE-XSTIa0je546PftkzSSryFfu3Udi1l3yAedG3I)
Duncan
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:o Thank you for that picture - just the look I would love to create!
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:o Thank you for that picture - just the look I would love to create!
I've always wanted to see a terrain board like this, so I'm eager with anticipation.
Duncan
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Here is an interesting ice look and how-to
http://bennosfiguresforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5258&hilit=ice (http://bennosfiguresforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5258&hilit=ice)
Enjoy
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@al will
I have seen the wax method discussed but discounted it as the ice is in the middle of the board and I want to put figures on to it and have visions of small round marks all over it :D
Nice find though - who knows this may not be the last board I make...
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It seems that guy put a piece of plexiglass over it, thus protecting it. Might be worth a try, it sure looks effective
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It also greatly depends on what type of wax you use. Store bought candles are cocktails of different waxes (mostly paraffin and/or beeswax, but with lots of little additives that change the properties), and can be pretty soft, relatively speaking (beeswax ones especially).
You can get pure paraffin wax at the grocery store in the baking/cooking isle (it's used for making DIY preserves). Straight paraffin's pretty hard: it won't get marked up just from your figure bases. Wax takes oil/enamel based paints very well, so a good hard clear coat to further toughen the surface should in theory be a simple thing (I've yet to try it myself). Paraffin's pretty cheap too, and looks a lot like scale pack ice right out of the box.
IIRC there's also additives you can get for candle and soap making crafts that will strengthen wax (the local craft store chain here has a whole isle dedicated to that stuff), but I don't know much about that yet myself. Google will probably tell.
A glacier or a pack ice board with wax has been on my "experiments to try" list for a while, but I've yet to get around to it.
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One fun trick I've discovered is to intentionally spray an enamel clear coat from a little too far away to create a "snow/frost" surface. You know how if you spray a paint or primer incorrectly, and it comes out with an annoying grainy/dusty sort of surface texture as a result? Turns out when you do that deliberately with a clear coat it gets you something like that glittery-crunchy light scattering effect that snow has but flat white doesn't.
You gotta play with it a bit thought, get a feel for it. Spray too close and you don't get the effect, too far and it won't adhere right & will rub off when handled.
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Here is an interesting ice look and how-to
http://bennosfiguresforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5258&hilit=ice (http://bennosfiguresforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5258&hilit=ice)
Enjoy
Now, this was new to me! An inspired idea and the result looks very convincing. Also thanks for the in depth analysis of the proper materials, Connectamabob! This sort of exchange is what I think makes Workbench on LAF so great.
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Following one from the notes here / TMP and the blog I've tried adding an extra layer of gel and also adding white paint into it:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a-vjplOjWlY/Tq8JVKwCUgI/AAAAAAAACyw/skTavwz3rEI/s800/DSC01429.JPG)
As expected - all the gel went white not just the crystals and the thicker gel hides the colour. It has also taken nearly 4 days to dry!
I think the best I can do is to paint green / blue, add a medium thick layer of gel and then drybrush paint/glue over the lumps to stick down the snow 'flock' from Woodland Scenics.
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Given I am full of cold at the moment I understand perfectly lol
In real life its not too bad but the white is very strange to look at as the colour changes as the light reflects from the crystals in it.
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You can use soft clear plastic or any other kind of clear plastic that is flat, then use it on top of the melted candles. Very effectful.
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Well after a bug that triggered off a runny nose and oddly a cough every time I opened a pot of paint I managed to get some blue on for shading:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YXlau73HD40/Tr-jG6AeQtI/AAAAAAAACzI/Q8_jp1kkCTI/s400/DSC01431.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SyXl4_Iy7fg/Tr-jHsdc8NI/AAAAAAAACzM/lrXslar3ByM/s400/DSC01433.JPG)
Though quite dark compared to the white, the snow and paint layers should tone this down again - well that's my plan...
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Yes that looking pretty darn cold and yucky!
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Nice'n. I will put this on How to... once it's completed.
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Beginning to look the part! 8)
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This thread is cool. :D
I have started to collect figures and materials for an ice and snow board.
Lots of ideas to use. Thanks.
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Been a little while since I have had time (family / work / stupid cough while painting) but I have managed to:
1) Get rid of the join in the boards with the WS gunk
2) Add the acrylic medium to the water area (remember this will dry clear with lumps in it):
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3CgJE3QpuIY/TtI_UEpVfzI/AAAAAAAACzg/2LgpSTllRGo/s400/DSC01445.JPG)
I also added a light dust of WS snow but it needs more to become solid:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PA1I9QvHLoI/TtJKDQd447I/AAAAAAAAC0E/wPMdZrgCSFc/s800/DSC01467.JPG)
Now - the reason you should not use black marker pens and craft paints:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jltiHtSyYO0/TtJKEZixyUI/AAAAAAAAC0I/vBcMiWwAoug/s400/DSC01469.JPG)
Serves me right I suppose - I should have stuck to the plan and not moved the river / island :'( lol :'(
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That board is looking great! That would be wonderful for some 15mm sci-fi
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Are you kidding me? That marker mishap looks great! If you keep quiet about it everyone's gonna be asking how you did that crack deep beneath the ice :D
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Are you kidding me? That marker mishap looks great! If you keep quiet about it everyone's gonna be asking how you did that crack deep beneath the ice :D
Exactly! This is turning out to be a great board.
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Ballpoint pen can bleed through paint amazingly too; at least one of my buildings has some marks on an inside wall from some quick markup I did before cutting, using a ballpoint instead of a pencil. Damn thing is still visible after at least four or five coats of paint, too!
The ice board is coming together amazingly, though, and as people have already said, black at least is just extra depth and cracks in the ice. Blue or red ink might have been a bit harder to explain away.
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Thank you for the kind words - I still have a long way to go with my skills compared to others here but I am loving the challenge.
So this weekend I added the first covering of snow - 2 parts glue, 1 part water and enough WS Snow to give me a slightly dry lumpy mix that a splatted on with a pallet knife:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sA5CfnpO-ro/TtPt4CR8bOI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/5FDhOWcdBXE/s640/DSC01471.JPG)
As this is drying with no warps to date :D the blue colour is beginning to come out again - not unexpected as I planned to use scenic cement and at least two coats of sprinkled snow on top from the trials I did way back when. You can see the odd rock - these are actually embedded in the snow / glue and will not be classed as an obstacle unless agreed with the other player (and as I play more solo than anything else this should cause the odd argument or two). So after 36 or so hours in a cool room I have:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9_QPxkNzykE/TtPt42y92ZI/AAAAAAAAC0U/EjZBkF_rxQY/s640/DSC01476.JPG)
Not a perfect match colour wise to the first shot as that was day light and this artificial (need to push this through photoshop when dry to match them better) but this does show the colour variation from the thickness of the mix.
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It looks very good, Andrew. This is going to be a very useful tutorial/project description in the How to... catalogue.
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Looking brilliant :-* :-*
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Looking really good, the WS snow on the ice is particularly nice, reminds me of this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9V9p4mFEYXc
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Folks - thank you for the kind words :)
Papa Spanky - just sat enthralled by the video. I have seen reeds / duck weed do something similar to a river before but never even heard of frazil ice before today. It is spooky how similar that looks to the river - the pics do not do the model justice at the moment but what a sight the real thing must be in real life. Thank you for sharing that with us.
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Despite a trip to the show at Recon (http://www.blog.kings-sleep.me.uk/2011/12/recon-2011not-flake-of-snow-in-sight.html) on Saturday and getting the main tree up in the room today I have managed to add the next layer to the board.
First step was to cover the surface in a good soaking of Scenic Cement using a brush (flip got to go wash it - sorted) and then sprinkle the snow directly on to this from the bottle using the shaker and a small spoon in a light dusting (just enough to stop the UK rail network) and leave to dry for a short while. A quick blow outside then remove the last of the loose bits giving me:
Softer cracks:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h3vS6V5QRFc/TtuZrPM1N9I/AAAAAAAAC7c/syv4BuxdA78/s640/DSC01534.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4qELSMFvST0/TtuZr0ye5cI/AAAAAAAAC7g/eJX3LInYJuw/s640/DSC01535.JPG)
and the start of the white tops to the river ice
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qS43nLT_qhc/TtuZs0jSLCI/AAAAAAAAC7k/YdnYTOod_DE/s640/DSC01537.JPG)
I think two more coats should do fine - a fair bit of the blue is now very light (except for one hill top) but I still need to break up the regular splotches on the water where I just dabbed the brush of glue and shook the flock on to. The stones have blended in nice - though I am thinking white rock under snow do not look as impressive as black basalt rock!
With luck and work allowing I should get the next snow fall this week :)
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Just found this:
Take a casting resin and fill your mould
(http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww159/TAUGrumbler/15.jpg)
Use a burr on a Dremel to create:
(http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww159/TAUGrumbler/16.jpg)
Add snow on top to give shape and form...
Pictures taken (without asking) from http://www.das-bemalforum.de/showthread.php?t=5260 (http://www.das-bemalforum.de/showthread.php?t=5260) (German thread)
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:o
Why am I fantasizing about GZG Scanfed troops and hovertanks right now??
Lovely work and the marker really doesn't show, it just adds some interesting depth to the icey river.
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Now thats looking very good. Keep up the good work
Duncan
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The ice in those pics seem to be some kind of 'modeller's glass' (Bastlerglas - have NO idea what material that might be ??? ), and he used baking soda and bicarbonate for the snow. The dremel was alledgedly used for adjusting the 'modeller's glass' to fit the surface of the water.
Interesting, if somewhat tedious, process.
I would not dare to use those powders for snow, as I expect them to get corroded by the moisture in the air over time, but I admit that it looks good just after being applied-
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I would not dare to use those powders for snow, as I expect them to get corroded by the moisture in the air over time, but I admit that it looks good just after being applied-
Even if you seal it ?
I would think a nice coat of glossy varnish would stop any moisture from interfering, or am I wrong ?
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Even if you seal it ?
I would think a nice coat of glossy varnish would stop any moisture from interfering, or am I wrong ?
I varnished some nap figs quite some years ago - and the varnish itself hat over time acquired a yellowish sheen over the white sections (probably all over, but it is most annoying over white). I have never varnished anything since then, save water surfaces lol
I don't know - I'm reluctant to use any water-solluble substances on wargaming minis - showcase minis are not exposed to quite as much handling, but I don't paint/model such. For normal bases, I think fine beach sand mixed with glue, then painted white and drybrushed with clear warnish for the glittering effect is a much safer (and sturdier) solution. But every man his cake, as they say :)
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Been a cold week so glue has been taking longer than I would like to dry but I have managed to get the board to the next stage in the build.
First two steps where to cover some of the dips with scenic cement applied with a brush and then sprinkle the WS snow (using a spoon) onto the wet patches and let dry. This helps cover up some of the blue showing through and starts to add the texture. Even though I started this bit on Sunday and it took till Friday to dry solid I have not gotten any pictures of these steps :'( The reason for using the cement rather than glue is that I do not want the dips to be completely filled in by the glue / snow mix now - just smoothed out slightly. Using the wood glue / pva has a habit of lumping the snow mix together in small clumps even if it is watered down whereas the cement has something in it to remove the surface tension and the result is a softer / smoother covering than I can get with PVA and water mixed together. It may be due to the very hard water (high calcium) we have here.
When the glue was dry any loose snow is blown off (do not wear a dark blue hoodie at this point) and the whole board sprayed with scenic cement using a fine spray and then the snow sprinkled on in a reasonably thick coat straight from the plastic bottle (using the holes not the pour slot).
As the snow remains on the surface of the board I get a result like this close up:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2YP6H8pmAN0/TuNq9ECZHzI/AAAAAAAAC7o/9aPj6-tAvMo/s640/DSC01545.JPG)
with the board overall now looking like:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P5wRb3FeOvM/TuNq-RNFunI/AAAAAAAAC7s/2F1_83Yg6aA/s640/DSC01546.JPG)
You may be worried by the texture - as this is for skirmish I am not concerned about troop trays or sliding figures and find after another couple of coats of cement sprayed on these are solid. Also remember each 'flake' is less that 1mm in size o_o
Turns out that the black basalt rocks I thought about using would have been a better idea than the white ones (well more accurate to Earth) but some of them are translucent and look rather cool:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-USqhWdPAEzE/TuNq_XnoDNI/AAAAAAAAC7w/s4bIQg6_7L4/s640/DSC01549.JPG)
I know folks have been commenting on the water (marker pen and all) but now the light snow is on the tops I am really happy with the result:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OGbfY_9Oc6w/TuNrAT3F-oI/AAAAAAAAC70/YDj4us7bAp4/s640/DSC01550.JPG)
The next stages are:
To sort out the edging - I'm thinking a smooth layer of flex paste and light sanding to hide the pink / white / glue mix:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RXGtD9DdwvU/TuNrBJ1LlOI/AAAAAAAAC74/j0A-xDYBoV0/s400/DSC01556.JPG)
As for scatter materials I am thinking:
- Bare trees dusted in snow
- Dead trees with snow covering most of them
- A wooden bridge over the crack
- Bits of the ice sculpture on there way to me (big thanks to Chris Palmer for sending me a couple -TMP Link (http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=250113)
- Little piles of rocks
- Ice sheet
- Bones - I have a few dino bones around so these will get cut up
I am avoiding buildings for now as I have a great reference on village life and may end up building another board next to this housing a small hamlet rather than the odd igloo.
Any one else got any ideas?
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First couple of terrain scatter:
Winter tree base using an MDF base
Coins blue tacked to the board where I want the trees to stand:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FScmwencTO0/TuT9BN6ycmI/AAAAAAAAC8E/e1AEVry4uEE/s800/DSC01567.JPG)
Not too deep on the flex paste:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-btFkBGoAgMk/TuT9Bl6kWtI/AAAAAAAAC8I/ky70q_l1CAw/s800/DSC01568.JPG)
But tidy up around the edge BEFORE it dries:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S25YCl67xf4/TuT-AL_F0kI/AAAAAAAAC8U/Y24H0CQj0so/s800/DSC01569.JPG)
Them old Bones on MDF
Off cuts of a childs dinosaur skeleton kit:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zWnO5MOv8Oo/TuT9CuCczYI/AAAAAAAAC8M/UIH-O9RIGdw/s800/DSC01571.JPG)
Now to wait 24 hrs for the flex paste to dry :`
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Try using silicone around the edges of the board andrew.Put it on then smooth it out with a bit of board or paint scraper.It will give a good protective finish.
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Try using silicone around the edges of the board andrew.Put it on then smooth it out with a bit of board or paint scraper.It will give a good protective finish.
Really? Paint doesn't sick to silicone, in my experience.
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The Ice Board is looking great. I also like your use of the plastic skeletons - I have some, somewhere in the shed, but didn't want to use the whole skeleton. Cutting them up may be the answer.
Tony
http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/
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That's quite stunning, the snow is looking really good in the latter pics - good job!
What's this flex paste you mention?
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Really? Paint doesn't sick to silicone, in my experience.
When I mentioned silicone it was for the foam around the edges to help protect it.No need for painting.
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What's this flex paste you mention?
Its a filler designed for foam made by Woodland Scenics (WS Main Page (http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/C1205))
Its a very creamy white smooth paste (like very thick PVA glue) that you can spread with a pallet knife and it sticks to everything, especially fingers (takes the prints out) and material (black fleeces for example).
When spreading it can peak letting you create waves for later painting and takes acrylic very very well:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qgCLHQlVSbQ/TbVgQjJtanI/AAAAAAAABzM/YTy30mQ6LZQ/s640/DSC00521.JPG)
I also have used it to top nuclear explosions:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vk2cJ3IB3Qc/TkUWNBCOoxI/AAAAAAAACOY/Exe6Q0GrkS0/s640/DSC00901%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Once dry its solid and you can sand it and never seems to shrink or crack. Even though it sands it remains reasonably flexible so no issues with wood seen to date.
Main problems (other than the fleece covering) are that it does not fill gaps that well as it can take a couple of coats to hide dints and joins well and the slightest lift creates a peak!
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Not sure this is going the way I want.
For some reason the WS Scenic Cement is reacting with the laser cut burns and tinting the edges a slight yellow in some places. This is despite me painting it and covering in Flex Paste after sanding it down... :'(
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fYDR18kJitU/Tu-re30cG-I/AAAAAAAAC9U/kzcWPil7eaY/s640/DSC01582.JPG)
I also did not match the colours in my haste to try these new pre-cut shapes - I used plain white and flock rather than the blue and though I can live with the colour difference I do not like the whole idea of the movable terrain for this board. My feeling is that they are too large and more suited for a 2x2 board rather than this one. The picture above is the smallest piece and it dominates the whole board when placed!
I think I will just add a random bit of scatter into the board itself rather than have it removable (except for the trees that will be up-rootable if that's a word)
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OK - scatter bits dumped in the bin as event he blue ones do not look right.
Maybe this is the main difference between a table with a cloth and a board where the hills / rivers etc are built in?
So first task it to work out how to mount the trees so the removal of them (needed for storage) does not leave increasing large size holes in the ground works. So step up Evergreen and their 1/8" plastic tube cut at an angle:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VcPD3JeyuIQ/TvNX3MvYnaI/AAAAAAAAC9Y/tk-zNVV3xgE/s800/DSC01583.JPG)
A quick push in using a biro gives me a nice little hole lined with palstic:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qTKPcR39toQ/TvNX3ot2OlI/AAAAAAAAC9c/DKDPccSVfxI/s800/DSC01587.JPG)
and with a few white rocks put together gives me the key elements of the scatter:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4bCft2NqMIA/TvNX4QSWkqI/AAAAAAAAC9g/2-VfDSDPtEE/s800/DSC01588.JPG)
Hardest thing is to get the pipe in vertical and not force the pen down into the foam!
- Measure the pipe first - the point does not help a great deal
- Use a small T-square or triangle to prop the pipe up
- if above fails - just bend the tree a bit lol
Now to make some more scatter rocks for hard ground without a base (or maybe a thin plastic one)
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Thanks for the explanation, and good luck with this stunning looking board.
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When I put mmy tubes in for my trees on my forest board (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=33340.msg402491#msg402491 (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=33340.msg402491#msg402491)) I put the straws in with a nail though the hole, it helped break the foam and meant the foam didn't get squashed. I used smaller thicknesses of tube than you are, but it might still help.
Duncan
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Duncan - thanks for that link - wonderful figures and woods you have there!
The thickness of the tube came down to that was what was in stock lol
Today I have been mainly sticking rocks together:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-60sb9NLmXBA/TvRjl4tnZdI/AAAAAAAAC9k/UKD931kuzJk/s800/DSC01589.JPG)
Basically take some epoxy resin glue (no hot glue for this as they are too small and I need my figures unburnt to open presents) and stick them in interesting piles... I've put them on a plastic bag to dry so I can peel them off as the glue seeps though to the base. Once dry I will flip them over and fill any gaps with glue to make sure they stick and with a quick coating of snow they are done.
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While the rocks are drying and getting a couple of coats of snow my mind turned to bridges across the ice river.
First thought was to use some of the skeleton parts (not yours Tony - they are on the way today with luck) but I do not have two bits the same to act as sides for the bridge but I may be able to work out how to fasten something to this bit:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-icVADHmKBrA/TvmJTrF_jXI/AAAAAAAAC9s/9SstFgFl2Hc/s400/DSC01590.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C6Ytzo9Gt_A/TvmJUApu7iI/AAAAAAAAC9w/W4w_7Hu9lF8/s400/DSC01592.JPG)
Next bit I dug out was a skull - with a trim of the back jaw joint it lays flat enough to be a support so I'll work on this bit next (need a few bridges for variation):
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cD7lxaE-lUI/TvmJVBuD4lI/AAAAAAAAC90/TOX5HcQ6qeg/s400/DSC01593.JPG)
but for now I've started on a couple of Ice Bridges - first up is a simple wooden bridge covered in ice made from two lollypop sticks hacked about with a knife and wire cutters. The lollypop sticks are stronger than balsa if you have never used them and the wire cutters help split / cut roughly and help to distress the wood more than the knife / saw will do.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ESsMCioe1uE/TvmJVi8QnzI/AAAAAAAAC94/p-1MyQWc0gU/s400/DSC01596.JPG)
This may be able to sit on top of the skull to help support it over the gap (in 'real' life not model wise):
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kaiV8TzxbpI/TvmJWuQYNSI/AAAAAAAAC98/5uTRhsJNBsY/s400/DSC01597.JPG)
I really want to use the wood one for gaming (as it is flat for the figures) but need to add a more fantasy element in to the table (also the wood bridge is significantly larger than the local trees) so I am not sure yet as I may make a bone bridge for the top of the skull...
The next trial is to make a flat lump of artist gel in a plank shape and see if it dries solid (or fit it to a plastic carrier) so out came the two types of gel I have and a quick splodge and shape later I get:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4YFTnr25dss/TvmJXvztHAI/AAAAAAAAC-A/w3obWas-NRk/s400/DSC01599.JPG)
I decided I would coat the wood bridge as well - I have used brown / green paints but they are now covered by the gel so you cannot see them yet!
Only issue so far is that this gel has been drying 4 days and still not clear >:(
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Well that gel is still not set or clear :o and to be honest is still soft and bends very very easily!
Hunting in the cupboards I remembered a sheet of plastic from Hobby Craft (cost me a lot that's why I remember it) that I bought on spec for a river / stream before I was doing this board with the gel but it was a pain to cut with a razor saw and broke when I dropped it of the table:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3GCxuwmuxAc/Tv2nZi-1xxI/AAAAAAAAC-M/9i_8PD0xIOY/s800/DSC01602.JPG)
Note the blue if from a plastic film on the smooth side - the darker bit is two layers of the film.
Taking care not to drop it this time I cut a 2cm wide strip that looked rather boring and flat - all to all too man made and artificial; so a quick heat in the gas (do not do this at home) and a batter with a large screwdriver gives me a curved bridge:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nS3WnFaMC_g/Tv2naaWbooI/AAAAAAAAC-Q/LPBeOflVi2I/s800/DSC01603.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BRAIk763i8k/Tv2nbajBbSI/AAAAAAAAC-U/iMdLMcINFys/s800/DSC01605.JPG)
The brown stain from the heating is a pain but I think a little gel and ink wash will help take that away.
In place the ends look a bit odd so I will build up a snow pile to cover them in the next few days:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-td7Kg1gJQ9o/Tv2nb6whZLI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/Ew0APOjHn-k/s800/DSC01607.JPG)
(Note the tree hole just close by)
Now I am happy with the basic board bits I can complete the figure bases and get some of the creatures done to occupy the board. Inuit Tusk any one?
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This is one heck of a project, Andrew. I really like that ice bridge.
Inuit Tusk soumbds good. If only Copplestone hadn't dropped his pack of Inuits with spears, keeping only the ones with rifles.
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Love that ice bridge, very clever!
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Needs ice hanging off the edges as it looks too clean o_o
Started a test piece - lets see what that looks like.
Thanks fr the kind comments - please feel free to chip in with ideas.
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:o The ice bridge is ace! Go on with it, I think it looks very good (like the whole board ) :-*
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Super cool project Andrew and the ice bridge in particular!
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Try these for icicles:
http://www.department56.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?item=56.52116&unav=TRUE&noselect=TRUE&ms=PRD&msi=59526&ts=6%2F7%2F2011+2%3A48%3A27+AM&cat=VL%7C%7CCP&subcat=ALL&filter=NAV&himg=0&pg=2&searchpc=SCH&si=r2zpvar5bwglwafzrhhmsh45&totalpages=48&smenu=products
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Once again you have excelled - the board looks fantastic, both the ice bridge and the wooden bridge look fantastic.
Tony
http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/
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Big thanks for the praise - helps keep me going.
If I am seen ordering from Dept 56 I'll get shot - my wife collects Snow Babies :o and any way they are no longer made :'( but thanks for the link.
I have got a sample ice lump done with the two gels but not really happy with the result - two small 'tails' and cloudy / lumpy too boot so I'll get hold of the WS Water Effects (http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/C1212/page/1) as that can make nice clear icicles.
This is the best of the two using the large grain gel:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Pe57NGf6CN0/TwNlJOakKRI/AAAAAAAAC-k/lM5YokDoDbQ/s800/DSC01619.JPG)
OK-ish but sure I can do better.
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"Test icicles" made me laugh, I'm ashamed to admit.
Really cool board. There's some really nice water effects on the Hirst Arts website, 'Tips and Tricks'. I think using a short length of fishing line or thin fiber optic cable with epoxy or acrylic gel built over it would do the trick.
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"Test icicles" made me laugh, I'm ashamed to admit.
lol
I think using a short length of fishing line or thin fiber optic cable with epoxy or acrylic gel built over it would do the trick.
True, I used a strip of acetate as a base to create the goo dripping from my toxic zombies.
As long as its transparent it should do the trick.
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Maybe this sounds all too amateurish, but why don't you use a simple hobby glue? I've used it in the past to create icicles; just glob the stuff on, and let it dry whilst dripping down. If you get the drying time (and thus consistency) right, you'll be able to get it to drip down, instead of flow down. If you let it get too thick to flow down, simply add another layer.
The worst cleanup I had to do was to cut off some teardropshapes from the bottoms of some icicles. And the best thing is; they retain some flexibility, so they're not easily broken off.
I'd love to show you some pictures, but sadly, this was a terrain project for a long gone local gaming club and the terrain has long since disappeared... :?
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Maybe this sounds all too amateurish
The whole aim of this thread was to show what I was doing - since then it has grown to a repository of ideas for the winter board, the odd cool video and an in-joke or two lol
Please do not feel embarrassed over any suggestion - if it does not help me it may well help another reader in the future solve a problem. We are all amateurs the first time we pick up a new topic.
For me I am trying different materials out as I go - some bits I bin (like the two gel bridges that have still not dried) and others I will use and document. The glue has crossed my mind - polycement (for plastic kits) and balsa glue went around a bit and I do have some balsa cement in the house but no poly.
I'll pick up a tube of poly ASAP and give these two glues a go and compare them to the WS water for all to see.
My other thought was the old stretched sprue (last used by me for 1/72 tank aerials) but I do remember they where very brittle and snapped often so I have not even tried that.
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Please do not feel embarrassed over any suggestion
Oh trust me; that's never a problem with me... :D
In this case, it just struck me that the simplest solution was not mentioned, whilst dedicated ice and water mimicking products were. And while I have no experience with the latter, I do with the former, and it is an easy and cheap option, which might very well suit your needs. ;)
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Well, I've got something to be (mildly) embarrassed about: I horribly misread "test icicles" for a second there. o_o lol
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You're not alone FramFramson.... ::)
As for icicles, have you seen the items from Dragon Forge (http://www.dragonforge.com/Painting%20service/for%20sale/sculpting_supplies.htm)? (About halfway down the page)
For (individual) icicles, you could also try (repeatedly) dipping a length of clear thread in water effects or clear-drying glue/varnish?
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Hi,
do you know this tutorial? http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/01/tutorial-how-to-make-icicles.html (http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/01/tutorial-how-to-make-icicles.html)
I always do icicles that way....works pritty well! ;)
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@Modhail
I like those DragonForge pre-made ones.
The thread idea reminds me of candle making - something I have always wanted to do since I saw them in Wales on honeymoon (25 years ago this year) and never got around to do.
@Gunslinger - Thats one interesting idea - using the sprue to hold the shape may well work though the English looses me a bit and not sure why you need the toothpick to hold the icicle why not just put the glue on the model? I've got a basic set of small icicles on the go now with the water effects but not sure if I have any clear sprue around so I may have to try a blister pack to give me the triangle former.
As for the embarrassment - your problem not mine lol lol lol I did not realise how close they where HONEST :D
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Well, the two biggest restrictions are:
1) Can be used by both modern and historical/fantasy wargamers
2) Available worldwide
There should still be a fair number of things that meet that criteria.
EDIT: Uhhhh ooops, looks like I posted this in the wrong thread. :-X
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I'm not even going to show the result of the balsa cement - a blob is the best description. Even though I managed to get a whisper thin hair out of it AND hand it so it dangled down it basically closed in on itself and went back to being a blob.
The WS Water Effects (WE from now on) is an interesting liquid:
- It looks like flex paste / thick PVA
- It flows worse than thick PVA
- The nozzle is thick and has a large hole in it
First try was to squeeze a row of WE and pull them out with a toothpick:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vooW1h9gxCU/Twly44EETcI/AAAAAAAAC-o/aN_4UqYTWYM/s400/DSC01629.JPG)
Once dry (48 hours for me - the room is cold and has no heating near my desk) I like the result. They flex slightly and are hard to crush - slight push straightens the points again and the cloudy bottom / clear top works well.
Note also I ran the WE over the edge and like the way it has created a blurred icy looking surface - it has hidden all the cuts and made that area clear again.
My second attempt is to create a point using the nozzle by putting a drop on the surface and pulling up with the bottle as I remove it - I'll let this dry and update later:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bOX7vwblKI8/Twly5299NlI/AAAAAAAAC-s/IVzcZUQxEFc/s400/DSC01630.JPG)
Forgive the over sharpen in these images - between the small area of crop and trying to show the clarity of the result I needed to push the pics a bit. I was also playing with the new version of Picasa and as normal its a bit up and down in the results...
Now to create longer ones (5mm - 1cm) I have had a trial run at running a bead of WE out in a line - seems very simple to do but in practice I have 2 OK icicles out of 14 tries!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yx5R36WI8ag/Twl5Im-MRXI/AAAAAAAAC-0/h4pZOKBcDXM/s288/DSC01632.JPG)
Also putting a blog on the CD and shaping / pulling with a toothpick does not work either.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SMkFgIQKrb0/Twl5HhDYmmI/AAAAAAAAC-w/R5-OZOKUenk/s400/DSC01631.JPG)
Next step is to raid the kitchen for some grease proof paper and make lots and lots of lines.
I also have decided to make some ice barriers using the bits Chris kindly sent to me TMP Link (http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=250113) that he used for his ice spires (http://onemoregamingproject.blogspot.com/2011/11/dollar-tree-icicle-ornament-ice-spire.html)
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Before I came across FR's cast finals for flagpoles I used to put a blob of Araldite resin on the end of a steel rod and hang it upside down so that the resin formed a cone. Afetr it had ured I would grind it to shape. As you are just making icicles you will not need that step.
Note - always put a drip tray under the resin 'sticks' to avoid a mess on your table or on the floor :-)
Or stretch sprue?
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Just a quick update - the Water Effects has dried nicely and gives me little icicles:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-itxvTovLMl4/TxCRL_C6OpI/AAAAAAAAC-4/GXZhX9414wE/s640/DSC01633.JPG)
The left hand side is where I put a drop of WE on from the bottle and lifted the nozzle away - small spots and no real drop.
The right hand side is where I laid a bead of WE down and used a toothpick to pull a drop up from the bead.
My preferred solution is the bead and a few more points.
Now to practise on the long drops...
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You could always buy some ready made strips from Jeff http://dragonforge.com/Painting%20service/for%20sale/sculpting_supplies.htm
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@generulpoleaxe - very nice link but I'm having fun o_o
Looks like I now have the components for the icicles - a big splodge of Water Effects with the strips stuck in them:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gDOVQhaE32g/Txc7rYYb-YI/AAAAAAAADEY/50_wjEDZhcg/s400/DSC01665.JPG)
Now just need to create small strips of WE for both sides of the bridge - 30 to 40 may do me in!
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I use clear expoxy glue pulled with a toothpick to create iciles or water splashes. Fast and easy.
Watch a tutotial here ::
http://platoonbritannica.com/index.php?threads/making-icicles.7/
and a thread there :
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?36705
Hope it can help you.
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(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gDOVQhaE32g/Txc7rYYb-YI/AAAAAAAADEY/50_wjEDZhcg/s400/DSC01665.JPG)
Thats really getting there, great thread. 8)
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Found this today while looking for hex bases!
(http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/all_images/GF9/Gaming/72772.jpg)
Full details are on the GF 9 site (http://www.gf9.com/Default.aspx?tabid=348&art_id=3137)
Given that I saw this for the first time today I am surprised how close we are to each other...