Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Pikes, Muskets and Flouncy Shirts => Topic started by: anevilgiraffe on October 29, 2011, 02:04:16 PM
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anyone got any suggestions for decent ECW era houses/farmbuildings?
any decent photos would always be appreciated... and I can't afford Grand Manner sadly...
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Wouldn't the regular generic timbered house do the trick?
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yep... but looking for whats out there... found Conflix and PMC on ebay... blackcat doesn't have pics, suspect hovels may be a bit small...
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Check out this blog for a whole load of links to that type of scenery manufacturers:
http://cianty-tabletop.blogspot.com/2008/11/tabletop-buildings-and-scenery.html (http://cianty-tabletop.blogspot.com/2008/11/tabletop-buildings-and-scenery.html)
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PMC stuff is quite nice and generic, it will do for a number of periods and countries. Touching History Vol 2 by Paul Darnell is a guide to making Terrain and Models for the English Civil War and useful if you want to make your own.
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I have a bunch of these that I might consider trading away:
http://totalsystemscenic.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1048_1059_1061 (http://totalsystemscenic.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1048_1059_1061)
Never did anything with them. They need to be assembled (resin walls and roofs) and some parts need to be sanded for a good fit.
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Check out this blog for a whole load of links to that type of scenery manufacturers:
http://cianty-tabletop.blogspot.com/2008/11/tabletop-buildings-and-scenery.html (http://cianty-tabletop.blogspot.com/2008/11/tabletop-buildings-and-scenery.html)
you see... I'd never noticed those ones on Ebob's site before...
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Captain Blood has a wonderful layout on page three of this site. It's entitled "Pics of the full village."
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you see... I'd never noticed those ones on Ebob's site before...
Hmm neither did I hehe. I prefer open houses though, and these seems a bit hard to convert to playable areas. But still, rather good looking I suppose.
However, I got to mention Pardulons buildings, very nice indeed. Me and my buddy Kalle have decided to order the whole bunch and use for our Eisende project (in the fantasy section of this forum).
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Is PMC still going? TMP gives this address:
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/pmc_games (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/pmc_games)
But all that's on sale there is an Atari emulator ...
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try http://www.ebay.ca/sch/pmc.games/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686 (http://www.ebay.ca/sch/pmc.games/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686)
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Is PMC still going? TMP gives this address:
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/pmc_games (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/pmc_games)
But all that's on sale there is an Atari emulator ...
he had stuff on last week... looks like his auctions have run out and he's not got round to redoing them...
he has some nice VBCW stuff as well now...
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The ad for Sarissa Precision (laser-cut MDF buildings) in the new WS&S says, "Coming soon, ranges suitable for ECW, ACW, AWI, Napoleonic". The buildings from their existing ranges look nice and reasonably priced.
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http://www.4ground.co.uk/Default.aspx?page=262
new company to me... they are behind the lasercut Rourke's Drift that Warlord have bundled up with stuff
the ECW building looks nice enough, but importantly very playable...
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The ad for Sarissa Precision (laser-cut MDF buildings) in the new WS&S says, "Coming soon, ranges suitable for ECW, ACW, AWI, Napoleonic". The buildings from their existing ranges look nice and reasonably priced.
wow he has some great stuff on that site.
http://www.sarissa-precision.co.uk
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The trouble with those is that it's all a bit flat. To make these really work, all the timber framework and such should be cut separately from a sheet of thin wood so you can glue it on and get some relief.
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you can get the basic structure and stick balsa strips on for the framing...
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I was actually thinking that too. The hard part for me is building a sturdy basic box anyway. The rest is just detailing.
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well I've ordered one... seem to be in a building mood anyway...
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They look rather nice, but yes, a wee bit 'flat'. Should be possible to add some texture though, and they are certainly cheap compared to resin... Be interested to see how you get on with it Anevilgiraffe :)
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If you want authentic buildings for this period have a look at the respresentation of Naseby village at the foot of Streeter's illustrated plan of the armies' dispositions for that battle. The houses of ordinary folk seem to have been far simpler constructions than those shown by the above manufacturers. And Darnell's so-called ECW buildings appear based on Victorian delusions of the ideal rustic life.
It's also worth looking at the hedged enclosures around Naseby village. None of your twee Home-Counties-suburban-hedges -they look more like Bocage.
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Here's the relevant bit of the Streeter picture.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/SteveFlanaganUK/2012%20-%2002%20-%20Feb/streeters_battle_of_naseby.jpg)
I'd say that could be represented quite well using the PMC and TSS ranges.
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well it arrived today... very nice little kit on 3 A5 sheets of mdf or whatever, has popped out very nicely and is a good snug dry fit...
now, the basic kit I ordered does not have the floorboards on the floors or the ladder hatch on the first floor, so before I glue I need to score some detail there and cut the hatch... this is a pain, however on the plus side it does mean the hatch will be where I want and not too far into the middle of the room... also there is no footprint to slip the first floor section into the ground floor walls - it sits loose, however, I think that extended beams in the detail kit I ordered will fill this function.... however I need to consider the thickness of the balsa I dress the thing with when this comes into play so I may need to make my own...
the detail kit is very nice and I would recommend that alone to people doing their own buildings, the door and frame should look nice and the windows will look very effective in place...
on the major downside I have a landlord inspection tomorrow and my room now stinks of burnt wood... ;D
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The trouble with those is that it's all a bit flat. To make these really work, all the timber framework and such should be cut separately from a sheet of thin wood so you can glue it on and get some relief.
ok... silly question... how much relief? ;D
what thickness of timberframe would you guys have? the interiors are all sorted and tarted and looking to start on the frames, but don't want to got too thick... or thin for that matter...
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Depends on whether you're going to texture the walls with something and if so, how thick that layer will be.
I'd go with wood coffee stirrers though (and probably will when I get around to trying it).
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how thick are they? ;)
must admit, am wondering if I need something a bit stronger than balsa... have some matchsticks kicking about...
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Don't have them here, but I'd guess they're about 0.5mm
Anyway, I'd use them because it would be convenient, not because I know them to be ideal. ;)
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the grisly details... and some bad news... here (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=38250.0)
EDIT: no bad news... they just moved the catalogue about... buggers...
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Coffee stirrers I've acquired from various places are all about 1mm thick, so roughly 2" in scale. Some of the timber framed buildings in York (including those dating back to the Civil War period) have this amount of "relief" between the exposed timber face and the infill. Some have quite a bit more!
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Here's the relevant bit of the Streeter picture.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/SteveFlanaganUK/2012%20-%2002%20-%20Feb/streeters_battle_of_naseby.jpg)
I'd say that could be represented quite well using the PMC and TSS ranges.
No hedging flails in them there days, just billhooks and slashing knives. I don't know how much hedge laying went on but where you were growing croops rather than keeping in livestock I'd think that hedges were just allowed to grow pretty much out of hand and so would be 10 to even 20 ft wide in places and of similar height. Given the general lack of coal, and timber as the principle source of heating/cooking material for houses I suppose there must have been some coppicing done, but you would think they would mostly go for timber felling in woods and forests rather than grubbing about in hedgerows. So the idea that it would be similar to bocage would appear to be not far wrong, especially in areas of Devon and others where banks form part of field boundaries too.
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heard from 4ground as I emailed the other day... interesting plans ahead
Yes I can say there will be a silhouette cut market hall hopefully within the next couple or three weeks. Silhouette cut and pre-painted are actually quite different model kits to laser cut, the pre-painted models are two layers of 2mm (so the painting is inside and out on those parts that need painting - we leave wood as wood), the silhouette kits are usually one 3mm sheet as you know. We have also been asked for silhouette cuts of the Rorke's Drift House and the Barn/Hospital, both can be made to look European or more American.
We are about to list the Rorke's Drift doors and the windows doors of the market hall kit in our building materials section for model makers to use in there scratch building projects. We also hope to have a sprue with a good selection of wheels in there so wagon scratch builders can get hold of the wheels they want for a project. In the next couple of weeks we will also have laser cut card for roofing projects. Another modeling product we are very happy with is our own Base Render as this stuff has been blended for us so it works well with MDF and even many plastics. It does not easily crack or chip with the usual game play mishaps - like drop the model off the table with your elbow. Base Render will be an almost must to get a good finish on the North African/ Otterman building kits that we are bringing out as Silhouette kits about March/April time.
Other buildings in varius stages of pre-prooduction in this timber framed range will be coming out over the next couple of months; right now they are a Tudor period shop, Merchant's house, Tavern (town/highstreet-Pirates etc) and a Coaching Inn (country) with Barn and stabling - there will also be the a Church for this period in the next few months but this is meant to be stone not timber framed. We also hope to have some more wagons and carts better suited to the period, including a coach ideal for any self respecting highwayman to hold up on a dark winters night, but next in the carts and wagons section will be a couple of Roman period vehicles.
rooftiles will be welcome... hate doing them...
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anyone know of an online resource about Tudor/Stuart architecture... typical houses and so on...
done a bit of google and the whole chimney/hole in roof thing has intrigued me and wondering how that would have looked... also suspect a two storey building is going to be posh enough for a chimney, but some have external brick chimneys, some have the chimney slap bank in the middle of the house - and I guess there is the possiblity that external chimneys are later additions...
obviously taking this all far too seriously, but the info is giving me lots of avenues to think about for variety...
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Did some googling
http://www.britainexpress.com/architecture/tudor.htm
Chimneys and enclosed fireplaces became common for the first time. Indeed, the Tudor chimney is one of the most striking aspects of this period. One of the reasons for the increased use of chimneys was the widespread adoption of coal as fuel. Previously wood smoke was allowed to escape from the interior through a simple hole in the roof. Now, the increased smoke from coal made necessary evolved forms of fireplaces, flues, and chimneys to get the smoke away from the living space. Chimney stacks were often clustered in groups, and the individual chimney columns were curved, twisted, and decorated with chequerboard patterns of different-coloured bricks.
Typical half-timbered Tudor house:
(http://www.britainexpress.com/architecture/images/tudor-house.gif)
also here:
http://www.woodlands-junior.kent.sch.uk/Homework/houses/tudor.htm
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I was under the impression that the hole-in-the-roof was a myth: with a thatched roof, the smoke filters out through the thatch. With tiles or shingles, you need a chimney.
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I was under the impression that the hole-in-the-roof was a myth: with a thatched roof, the smoke filters out through the thatch. With tiles or shingles, you need a chimney.
Certainly there's some evidence that without a true flue and chimney the last thing you want is a hole in the ceiling - it draws the sparks and gledes up into the roof with breathtaking but disasterous results. Apparently some people did a lovely Iron Age (IIRC) reconstruction is Scotland with a smoke hole and found this out the hard way :(
I think the spectacular Regia Anglorum great hall at Wychurst is shingled and has no chimney - the gaps between the shingles allow smoke to percolate away (eventually).
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some new medieval buildings from 4ground at Salute yesterday... one or two would not be pushing the envelope too much during the 17th C from what I've read - especially if a very small handful still exist today...
posted about them proper in the medieval forum though
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=40890.0