Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Thunderchicken on February 16, 2012, 05:46:54 PM
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The spray can type Nick so dont get excited ;). Sorry Just needed to clear that up.
Usually when I put my builds together with foamboard I cover the foam bit with styrene but with a present build the foam is going to remian exposed. I'm thinking when it comes to priming the thing the aerosol spray will eat the foam so will coating it with something like wood glue prevent that happening?
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I dont think we need a seperate board for spray paints and foam ;D we can just use workbench
why coat with glue when you could spend that time priming with emulsion?
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You suggested that to me before and I'd forgotten (hangs his head in shame).
However, in this case it's going to be primed with a metallic silver.
Did I need to put metallic before silver or should I have just said silver............................ or maybe just a metallic primer.............. then again............... oh I dont know.
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Yep just paint it with a normal paint before spraying. It'll be fine, that's all I do with mine.
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Like they all say, just paint it first.
I got me a large pot of Windsor & Newton black acrylic for basecoating scenery (too thick to paint figs with)
You could also use Gesso.
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Thanks chaps.
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Plasti-Kote have a spray http://www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Product/pcode---6656/pccode---3621 (http://www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Product/pcode---6656/pccode---3621) never tried it though lol
Get the feeling it will be expensive.
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First you need to coat it with a single sheet of 4mm lead to prevent radiation damage, then a layer of sheet copper to insulate the poisonous lead, then a 5mm layer of merino wool felt to protect the copper from denting. Apply a layer of gold foil to prevent corrosion. Add to that a few layers of paper mash, sand when dry and coat with at least seven layers of black Chinese lacquer to give it a sturdy and nice finish. THEN you can use silver aerosol as much as you like.
Don't opt for the easy way out, you'll regret it.
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First you need to coat it with a single sheet of 4mm lead to prevent radiation damage, then a layer of sheet copper to insulate the poisonous lead, then a 5mm layer of merino wool felt to protect the copper from denting. Apply a layer of gold foil to prevent corrosion. Add to that a few layers of paper mash, sand when dry and coat with at least seven layers of black Chinese lacquer to give it a sturdy and nice finish. THEN you can use silver aerosol as much as you like.
Don't opt for the easy way out, you'll regret it.
lol
You've been sniffing detergent again haven't you!
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First you need to coat it with a single sheet of 4mm lead to prevent radiation damage, then a layer of sheet copper to insulate the poisonous lead, then a 5mm layer of merino wool felt to protect the copper from denting. Apply a layer of gold foil to prevent corrosion. Add to that a few layers of paper mash, sand when dry and coat with at least seven layers of black Chinese lacquer to give it a sturdy and nice finish. THEN you can use silver aerosol as much as you like.
Don't opt for the easy way out, you'll regret it.
Dont take any notice of this Swedish derived drivel, anybody who has ever seen a wargame figure knows it should be 6mm of merino wool ;)
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The thickness of the wool isn't the issue, it's the micron count of the wool itself. I used to use merino myself, it's readily available and I could buy it in 20kg bags but I've since moved on to alpaca, as the best wool seems to go abroad these days.
I understand most professional modellers are using the fur of the Viscacha now. Bugger to come by and the postage costs from Peru can be astronomical. If you have the time harvesting the wool yourself is the best option but remember you need to acclimatize for the altitudes you will encounter the beast.
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I would personally go for six layers of red laquer... But that's just me ;D
cheers
James
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I was going to say 'get thee an airbrush',however I did read the posts from bottom up,I'd never put metallics through my airbrush.......So what everyone else said :),I have seen acrylic silver paint in auto parts shops.
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First you need to coat it with a single sheet of 4mm lead to prevent radiation damage, then a layer of sheet copper to insulate the poisonous lead, then a 5mm layer of merino wool felt to protect the copper from denting. Apply a layer of gold foil to prevent corrosion. Add to that a few layers of paper mash, sand when dry and coat with at least seven layers of black Chinese lacquer to give it a sturdy and nice finish. THEN you can use silver aerosol as much as you like.
Don't opt for the easy way out, you'll regret it.
Followed your advice, now I'm left with this:
(http://api.ning.com/files/w7KeCg*Gmudl0ZN8mLymwm6aj*xR4Ft43aYATvwy-6t2ntSTSb4ArxTQD0FuHgrKloYZoCEReM3sLSDJGs7aAerMlMP8hgM0/hairball.jpg)
Is there a way to bring out the details again...? :'(
On-topic again; Will any hobby acrylics do, as long as the foam is covered?
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Followed your advice, now I'm left with this:
(http://api.ning.com/files/w7KeCg*Gmudl0ZN8mLymwm6aj*xR4Ft43aYATvwy-6t2ntSTSb4ArxTQD0FuHgrKloYZoCEReM3sLSDJGs7aAerMlMP8hgM0/hairball.jpg)
Looks perfect to me.
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On-topic again; Will any hobby acrylics do, as long as the foam is covered?
Yes, as long as it isn't thinned too much. You want a proper coverage to prevent the solvents getting through. Obviously don't use little miniature paint pots, get some artist/craft acrylic to do it with.
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Sorry. Late to the party on this one :D
I paint any bare exposed foamboard with PVA. This forms a nice skin over which you can spray the most corrosive enamel in the world, and your foamboard will remain intact. You do have to be sure to work the PVA into all the little dimples in the surface though, if you're using stuff like the Knaupf spaceboard, because the aerosol paint will find a way through any tiny un-PVA'd spots and eat away at the foam...
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Sorry. Late to the party on this one :D
I paint any bare exposed foamboard with PVA. This forms a nice skin over which you can spray the most corrosive enamel in the world, and your foamboard will remain intact. You do have to be sure to work the PVA into all the little dimples in the surface though, if you're using stuff like the Knaupf spaceboard, because the aerosol paint will find a way through any tiny un-PVA'd spots and eat away at the foam...
I'm surprised that worked, Richard. In my experience PVA shrinks like a bastard and the lifting power may makes the board concave.
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I also use PVA on edges or exposed foam, works fine for my needs...
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Yes, edges and bits and pieces of bare foam only.
I guess if you literally skinned the entire thing with PVA it would contract and risk warping. But along the edges and in dibs and dabs here and there, it acts as an excellent sealer and barrier to take aerosol enamel or primer...