Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Rivera on 07 July 2012, 06:19:38 PM
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This is my first bash at scratch building a house (and posting a photo) and I'd like your suggestions and opinions. First off a pic of the assembled structure and then some sub-assembly shots.
(http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/8608/dscf0018rh.jpg)
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4403/dscf0023m.jpg)
(http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7813/dscf0024pq.jpg)
(http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/2070/dscf0025yr.jpg)
Basic materials used are foamboard, corkboard (stripped), waxing spatulas, Copydex and double sided tape.
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For a first go that's not bad at all :)
For suggestions I would go with the following...
Don't use copydex, the model won't last long with it. Try and use UHU or Bostik contact adhesive (takes a bit of practise getting used to the stringiness).
Try and use balsa wood rather than waxing spatulas/coffee stirrers. The grain is more suited to wargaming terrain, it's easier to cut and you can get a whole lot of different sizes/thicknesses before you have to think about sizing them.
Don't be afraid to reduce the size of the details (like the window frames), it'll prove dividends later on :)
Last one. Keep trying, it's the only way you can improve yourself :)
cheers
James
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Tell you what mate - bloody good , love the 3 x stories and I look forward to seeing it painted , keep posting.
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Very good first build.
Done as well as I could do, even better.
Can't wait to see it painted.
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Wow - first attempt brilliant - whats the tenth attempt going to look like ! Wish I had pour patience
Eric
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Hi guys,
Many thanks for the kind comments and suggestions - I didn't realise that Copydex wasn't that durable so I'll switch over to Uhu as an adhesive. I had the spatulas knocking around from an old project so I thought I'd use them up but they were a bit of a swine to cut it must be said. Next time it's balsa wood for sure.
I'm going to add a base to it as it looks odd without one and I can't take any credit for the design as I found the image on the interweb which I've adapted a tad.
I'll post some photos of the basic paint job soon as it's finished. I must add that it has been a very steep learning curve.
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I wish my first attempts were as good!
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Its great, very neatly done and the roof tiling is a triumph
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That is really nice.
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A cracking job!
Even more impressive as a first attempt.
Adding my applause to what has already been said, that roof is great!
:-*
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Very nicely done! Very clean lines.
Also, listen to the Jim.
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My 1st attempt looking nothing like this. Clearly you are gifted.
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That's a great start. Well done.
I've used Copdex on most of my builds going back three years. Does its effectiveness depend on what you're sticking together?
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I've used Copdex on most of my builds going back three years. Does its effectiveness depend on what you're sticking together?
Obviously shinier surfaces are not to to adhere as well over time (or even initially) but it will go sooner rather than later. UV light helps to break it down (like it does with most things) but if the buildings a in a box then you'll be good for a few years yet.
The integrity will start to go first especially with continued handling, which wargames buildings tend to have.
cheers
James
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I've just added some windows, a doorstep and a base and have yet to provide a door and some flashing but my main concern is to do with a finished paint job. If I could have your ideas as how to proceed it would be appreciated.
I've given the building a thinned coat of Light Grey to the timbers and two coats of white emulsion to the wall surfaces - but what next :?
(http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/7554/dscf0004ek.jpg)
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/2699/dscf0002vx.jpg)
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It depends on what type of building or effect youre trying for. At the moment it looks like a 1930's mock Tudor that's had a iffy paint job by the owner (that's not a dig at your model by the way).
Choose what sort of building you want first and then mock up a small sample section of the different building materials and have a go.
If you're going to drybrush it pays to be subtle and by that I don't mean lack of contrast but I do mean building the colour up gradually, using several tones progressively getting lighter and lighter.
There are several ways to do the panels and if you are going for an older building then they will have a more natural colour to them (dirty creamy/white for example). You can paint the panels in layers like you would a figure or you can use washes and drybrushing to varying degrees.
As I said before, it's all a matter of choice. Even finding some suitable images of the Internet can help enormously for you colour choices and where the weathering would go etc.
cheers
James
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The image that I 'borrowed' from the interweb seems to suggest some sort of generic structure that could be utilised as a townhouse in either a middle-European setting from the late medieval to Napoleonic eras or as a building in a fantasy setting (I'd post the picture but it's probably copyrighted).
As this was very much a test piece I've been keeping samples of the materials used, painted and unpainted, to experiment on as I go along. The paintwork on the beams is supposed to reflect the colour of untreated timber and the cork on the walls has left a very good surface feel to it after a couple of coats of white.
The next step is to give the whole 'wooden' structure a wash of some description and use a different colour for the walls which is where a few tips would be handy (I'll probably go with the dirty cream/white as you suggested). The chimney could do with some drybrushing I think.
Your thoughts anyone?
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That house looks very nice, I can't believe it's only your first attempt.
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Hi CyberAlien - Yup, it's my first go at scratch building a house and I must say that it was inspired by what I've seen on this site and it was great fun. The best part was planning the structure and seeing it take shape with the down side being cutting all the individual tiles for the roof. But with Radio 4/4 Extra on in the background it was a lot less of a hardship. I'm now planning my next building which might well have something of the H.P. Lovecraft about it.
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Nice work! I particularly like the windows, they fit very well with the overall style of the building.
I'd post the picture but it's probably copyrighted
That wouldn't happen to be this one? I recognize a few similarities ;)
(http://pardulon-models.com/images/product_images/popup_images/130_0.jpg)
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Respect where it is due, thet is bloody good for a first attempt- very neat! I tend to mesure things by eye, so my buildings have a wonky, lived in feel (ie they look shabby)
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Thanks Zafarelli, as to the windows I used a duff Cd case and some painted masking tape. The pic does indeed look like the one I 'borrowed' my inspiration from (I think that it's customary here to say 'all credit to the original artist').
And thanks too Rob_bresnen, I'm hoping to get a slightly 'shonky' look to it with the final paint job. I've got a derelict wooden building on my future build list so I'll keep your tip in mind.
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That is amazing! I think it looks wonderful.
I really want to scratch build a house as well, and for a 'lovecraftian' setting too boot.
Any tips you can offer?
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Hi supervike, many thanks for the kind comments. As a first shot I was trying out different materials which I've mostly listed previously but I'd substitute balsa wood instead of spatulas and Uhu glue instead of Copydex not to mention double sided tape which was a godsend. As for tools (and I'm looking at my workbench as I type), a sharp scalpel, a 6" steel rule and a cheap plastic set square are essentials.
As for inspiration - I'm currently reading "Necronomicon - The Best Weird Tales of H.P. Lovecraft" which can give food for thought as he's very up on his architectural descriptions. But my main tool for pictures was Google images which can supply ideas and model railway forums which have some really splendid models on show.
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Excellent. Especially as you planned it well from the beginning. I am always modifying my first try of scratch built models and I seldom get anything properly finished!
Yes balsa wood is good for wooden beams and it gives more choice when painting: you can paint it with a light wash and let the grain of the natural wood be seen through the paint.
a 1930's mock Tudor that's had a iffy paint job by the owner (that's not a dig at your model by the way)
Funny, I have been thinking the same, as a compliment. I am experimenting to scratch-build a few buildings suitables for the 1930s-1940s, and I was thinking about some "medieval"-style houses with 1930-style iffy paint/plaster job added.
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Thanks Patrice, I drew up the plans to size as the first stage which really helped me to realise what the finished structure might look like.
My balsa wood has just arrived from Evil Bay and I'm just about to start experimenting with it with washes etc. Can you recommend a good glue to use to bond it together ? I've got some Uhu which I'll try out first.
I know what you mean about the mock Tudor look, I've just given the wall panels a coat of Almond craft acrylic which has toned down the Brilliant White emulsion nicely. I'll post some more pics next time I have the camera out.