Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: myincubliss on 09 June 2013, 08:28:14 PM
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I've been trying to make one-part moulds using Bu-Stuff to transfer detail from one shield to another (a lion, for my ASOIAF Lannisters), but it doesn't seem to work as I'd imagined - has anyone else managed something similar and can proffer some tips, or am I on a fool's errand?
Full trials are at http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/experiments-in-one-part-moulding.html (http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/experiments-in-one-part-moulding.html), but it's largely encapsulated in this picture:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L2iDR3SLmiI/UbObT9SFoII/AAAAAAAABNI/-CFWngOPgjE/s320/IMG_1265.JPG)
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Being a little older in the tooth I have never used, or even seen, either blu-stuff or liquid greenstuff. I have however managed to do similar with just good old fashioned green stuff. Grease master, cover in GS, leave to set, push in fresh GS and either A: (tricky) transfer to new shield whilst wet or B: let set and then transfer over.
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Two-part silicon is what you want:
http://area-23.blogspot.it/2013/03/the-dark-art-of-press-moulding.html
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I've had good success with Instant Mold from Cool Mini or Not:
http://roebeast.blogspot.com/2011/05/messing-around-with-instant-mold.html
Or you can buy the same material somewhat cheaper here:
http://www.artclayworld.com/prod-696.htm
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I love the Insta-Mold material. I've used it so often it has paid for itself many times over.
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Get two part silicon mold putty. It's the consistency of silly putty and hardens to a flexible mold in 5 minutes once mixed. Buy in bulk as the stuff from cool mini, and other shops is the same stuff, rebranded and repacked (more expensive)
http://www.makeyourownmolds.com/silicone-plastique
Then you can use miliput or any putty in the mold, even two part resin. Miliput is great since you can use water to make it more of a cream, and flow it into the molds with a piece of plastic. Easy to sand too once its dry to make the pieces thinner.
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Since it is a one time part, you have another vote for insta-mold.
Snitchy sends
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Siligum will do the trick.
http://www.thegiftofcreativity.co.uk/Siligum-Crystal-Resin_B23UEW.aspx (http://www.thegiftofcreativity.co.uk/Siligum-Crystal-Resin_B23UEW.aspx)
No need for the resin, just use GS.
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So the collected wisdom of the LAF is that it's a Blu Stuff issue and not something I'm doing wrong (that's pretty much the opposite of what I was expecting lol) - my Green Stuff and Instand Mould have been packed away after my young lady wanted some flat surfaces back, so I'll have to dig them out and have another try...
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Also lubricate the mould to aid release... warm some vaseline and just rub a very small amount over it before adding the casting medium, or even a quick short spray of a wax based polish. I'd be tempted to use miliput and miliput, so long as it's lubricated it won't stick together
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I've used milliput in Blu-Stuff moulds before, so I might fall-back to that if (hopefully not when) my attempts with instant mould and greenstuff (now located) don't work out satisfactorily...
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I would use Instamould, it´s perfect for this simple one part mould.
And reusable, if your not happy with the mould.
Here´s a short tutorial:
http://www.herebegeeks.com/games/instamold-review-and-quick-urban-basing-tutorial/
Anders
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Right, I've taken everyone's advice and I've had another crack - using Instant Mould and proper green stuff - long story: http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/experiments-in-one-part-mouding-part-two.html (http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/experiments-in-one-part-mouding-part-two.html)
Short story:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eSB1kJcxtqA/UbY9rIt5UaI/AAAAAAAABO4/xANj04pctCg/s320/IMG_1278.JPG)
We'll see how they dry, and if I can trim them down to superglue on to the receiving shields. If not, I'll have a crack at trying a thinner layer of green stuff in the mould, and transferring it to the receiving shield whilst still wet...
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I would have a go at filing the back part off the shields you have made. I use procreate, which can be filed better than green stuff, but I have heard that mixing miliput and greenstuff works fine, and gives a harder material, so easier to file. File with a large metal-work file. They look really meaty and imposing, but you can do really fine work with a huge file. Plus a half round file will make the curved back surface easier to make.
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I got better results when I combined Instant-Mold with GF9's grey stuff or Magic Sculp. The copied pieces' details ended up crispier than those I did in green stuff.
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Thanks to all the handy tips and advice here, I now have some shields with a transplanted lion:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9YP99WMHu7U/Ub5MPHpaFqI/AAAAAAAABQA/hr3vx6tWBaM/s320/IMG_1298.JPG)
Huzzah!
(full waffle on the blog: http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/experiments-in-one-part-moulding-end-i.html (http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/experiments-in-one-part-moulding-end-i.html))
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Excellent, glad you found a way to make it work. 8)
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Doing the same trick for the Starks worked out much better:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w6tLzHoFpmU/UdCvu8tGXzI/AAAAAAAABSM/udvCNGxARi0/s320/IMG_1353.JPG)
I think the thicker detail I was trying to copy made it work, as it was chunky enough that it didn't self-destruct when it came time to stick it in it's final location...
As ever, full waffle on the blog: http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/stark-shields-one-part-moulding.html (http://deadleadproject.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/stark-shields-one-part-moulding.html)