Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: cgh on 12 June 2013, 05:41:18 PM
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It's my own fault, the seal wasn't perfect so when I opened it up I cut off the top dry layer with a knife but the strong tone underneath was gloopy and is currently unuseable. Does anyone know if it's possible to salvage this gunk?
Kicking myself
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Just add some turps to it. Not too much though. The same thing happened to mine as well. I added too much turps to it though and made it thinner than it is meant to be, I thought it worked better though.
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If it's water based paint I'd go to an art store and buy some water based flow extender. At least that's what they call it in America. I've had good luck resurrecting paint with it.
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If it's water based paint I'd go to an art store and buy some water based flow extender. At least that's what they call it in America. I've had good luck resurrecting paint with it.
Army painter is an oil based paint.
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I added some white spirit and then used an electic screw driver with an allen key attached to give it a good stir.
I do find that I end up throwing away a third of a can of Army Painter. No matter how clean I keep the seal, it still goes off. I think I will go back to inks...
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I've converted to the Polyshades Minwax. It's a better medium and it's about half the price. AP changed their formula ( if you don't believe me read the label on new tins) it's gloopier to start with. I've binned mine.
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What shade would you recommend for a strong toen equivilant for the miniwax? Tudor looks similar. I tried turps but no joy so I've binned it.
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Tudor is about right for strong tone. I bought a tin of 'Pecan' as well and that's a pretty good substitute for the AP soft tone. Works a treat with khaki drill and lighter colours.
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Can you buy miniwax in the UK. I thought it was only available in the USA.
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Army painter is an oil based paint.
the war paints are acrylics ???
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the war paints are acrylics ???
He's referring to the Army Painter quickshade dips.
I've found that rubbing alcohol works as well as turpentine to cut these. I would probably never use one of these shading materials without cutting it a bit. In fact, I almost went 2:1 Shade to Alcohol and had great results.
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Sigh....
Go to an artist store. Buy two big tubes of Ivory Black and Burnt Umber from a good brand.
Mix with a little turps and lots of purefied linseed oil. Both available at the same shop.
You now have the almost same mixture at a fraction of the cost.
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Sigh....
Go to an artist store. Buy two big tubes of Ivory Black and Burnt Umber from a good brand.
Mix with a little turps and lots of purefied linseed oil. Both available at the same shop.
You now have the almost same mixture at a fraction of the cost.
Is this WYSIWYG? Is usually mix my shaders with acrylic wood paint (transparent, half matte) and whatever acrylics I just need, but while that is really quick (dry in 1 hour) it isn't WYSIWIG and looks milky until dry so using turns into a gambit every time I try a new colour combination. :(