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Other Stuff => Workbench => Tutorials => Topic started by: Andrew May on 01 August 2013, 01:33:14 AM
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Over the course of our hobby, I'm sure we've all considered utilising a cheap, common wallpaper pasting table for gaming. The thought has crossed my mind several times over the years but I've always discarded the idea, the tables are too long and narrow and pretty unstable but I had a brainwave a week or so ago, now I'm not sure if anybody else has had the same thought or even already built a table like this but it's a fresh idea to me so have look at what I've been up to.
I'm sure many of you share my problem of having too little space for a real gaming set up, especially a permanent table with any thickness for landscaping. As I mentioned, I used a pasting table but anyone with a solid set of woodworking skills could adapt the idea to make a board with different dimensions. I however have fairly rudimentary woodworking skills and an old pasting table otherwise gathering dust. My intention is to cover the table in cobbles/paving to use for VSF and dungeon crawls but I should think it'd work well with grass or hills or whatever you like.
The idea is to actually build the board on the inside of the table, thus protecting it once it's folded away also I'm changing the edge that the table folds along making a nice square surface, it's hard to explain so I hope I make sense, here come the pictures.
Here's what I did so far......
(http://imageshack.us/a/img580/5736/4ntt.jpg)
Take one ordinary pasting table.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img534/5734/uzrx.jpg)
It opens like this, pretty useless....
(http://imageshack.us/a/img109/9096/2d7f.jpg)
Still, open it flat and carfully remove the legs.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img24/466/cyoc.jpg)
Now remove the hinges.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img96/9501/5n2u.jpg)
Now turn the halves 90deg and put the hinges on, this time on the other edge (I drilled guide holes using the hinge as a template).
(http://imageshack.us/a/img27/5893/db7h.jpg)
Next take the legs and cut them down to fit the inside width to use as braces (the fibreboard surface is pretty flimsy!)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img7/2780/og1h.jpg)
Now with white glue underneath and screws in each end through the frame, fix the bracing.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img23/3954/lgug.jpg)
I found some more wood to brace with in the shed and used the off cuts of the legs to make cross bracing. Make sure your extra braces are the same thickness as the legs or it will cause problems later!! (as I found out) lol
(http://imageshack.us/a/img812/2299/qe3c.jpg)
Next using guide holes drilled from the other side I used little screws to fix the bracing securely to the board. There's no real depth to the fibreboard for countersinking so the next step is pretty essential.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img541/8388/qy1d.jpg)
I got two cheap foamed sleeping mats for camping and glued them to the board. This covers the screwheads and protects the board. It'll also protect the board from slipping off of where ever you lay it.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img856/8332/yty0.jpg)
Here's it finished, the edges were fixed down with superglue.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img29/8366/9d5b.jpg)
And here it is folded again.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img821/4158/4f9g.jpg)
And weighted with heavy books to help the gluing (I actually added more and distributed them more evenly).
(http://imageshack.us/a/img20/1566/1lrv.jpg)
Next comes the infill, I used really cheap polystyrene packing sheets to build the bilk of the board. Some areas have been left shallow as I want to add scenic elements below the regular playing surface, you could carve a river or trenches or whatever you like (allowing for bracing).
(http://imageshack.us/a/img833/7879/3hha.jpg)
Next the surface layers of blue styrofoam are built up. If you plan better you might only need one layer.
I forgot to photograph between stages here but in the picture I have used a plane, chisels and belt sander to reduce the height of the two lengths of wood that form the internal section of the frame. When I add the next layer of styrofoam they should be fairly flush with the playing surface, only needing a little work to disguise (that's the plan at least!) o_o
(http://imageshack.us/a/img20/361/6mkw.jpg)
For added stability at the edges I've inserted short lengths of cut down cocktail stick, the theory is that they should help reduce the compression that could occur from knocks or leaning players!
(http://imageshack.us/a/img687/3908/91md.jpg)
Here's where I am now, all surfaces ready to receive the next layer of styrofoam (I'm actually waiting for more styrofoam glue to arrive!) The plan is to make a collapsed basement and sewer into the two larger open areas and leave the others paved to recieve senic inserts, whether they be just steps or objectives.
Thanks for reading, I hope to see more tables like this appear in due course. I will post an update once the glue arrives amd I've had time to work on it more. :D
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having too little space for a real gaming set up
thats is also my problem and I like the Idea you deal with it ...thanks
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Groovy idea mate 8)
cheers
James
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great idea that
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Impressive!! Really is 8) 8) 8)
I'd give it a go if I had a girlfriend who didn't mind me moving our rather large dining table to one side when i'm gaming.
(I put terrain boards on the table)
Darrell.
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Hmm, this gives me ideas to do something similar. Would be a good solution to store various boards with minimal hassle too.
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Impressive!! Really is 8) 8) 8)
I'd give it a go if I had a girlfriend who didn't mind me moving our rather large dining table to one side when i'm gaming.
(I put terrain boards on the table)
Darrell.
This is to put on top of the table too, no legs involved!
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This is to put on top of the table too, no legs involved!
Oh.... I really should pay more attention lol
Darrell.
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This is to put on top of the table too, no legs involved!
Yeah, I was wondering for a while what was the purpose of the outside foam mat layer, but then I figured out it was to protect the surface of your kitchen/dining table. ;)
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Good job!
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Bloody brilliant, mate!
8)
Watching with interest.
:D
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Yeah, I was wondering for a while what was the purpose of the outside foam mat layer, but then I figured out it was to protect the surface of your kitchen/dining table. ;)
Yeah, you have to read the text too ;) lol
As I said, it stops the board from slipping around too also protects against knocks well.
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Nicely done!
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Yeah, you have to read the text too ;) lol
As I said, it stops the board from slipping around too also protects against knocks well.
I have two wooden batons on the bottom of my board that clamp nicely to my kitchen table to stop it slipping, but I do have to put a cloth on the table to stop it scraping.
I think I will be shamelessly stealing your foam mat idea to negate the need for the cloth and to help grip better.
Nice one!
:D
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That is truly an excellent idea and well planned and thought out 8)
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I have two wooden batons on the bottom of my board that clamp nicely to my kitchen table to stop it slipping, but I do have to put a cloth on the table to stop it scraping.
I think I will be shamelessly stealing your foam mat idea to negate the need for the cloth and to help grip better.
Nice one!
:D
Got mine from a camping supply store on Amazon, supposedly sleeping mats but pretty small (cheap though), they're about 8mm thick. I initially searched for exercise mats thinking they'd be thick and durable....but adding the word "yoga" to a product seems to quadruple the price!
I used the dregs of a uhu tube and some old araldite to glue it on (I'm not entirely sure what the mats are made of) neither seemed to melt it, do a "patch test" first.
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Now this is going to sound weird, but I bought a pack of two camping/yoga mats on Amazon only last week.
I only bought two as they come in a twin pack and were so cheap.
I reasoned that I may find a use for the second...and then you go and do this.
Fate, I tell ya!
Anyone else looking for cheap mats by the pair...they are here:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001927P2O/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They have a foil backing which may help, as it should help them stay in one piece.
;)
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8mm too! ;)
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(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3603/mbzc.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/16/mbzc.jpg/)
Here I am for today.
Last layer of styrofoam went on and to my relief is pretty flush with the internal frame edges (the filler isn't as caked on as it looks!) All of the paved areas are Wills plastic sheets and there's some other dressed stone plastic sheeting on the walls that I picked up from 4D but didn't notice the brand name.
You can't see well in the photos but one recess is the collapsed basement and one is a sewer (it looks a bit like it is purposely open rather than collapsed but it might look better painted).
Next up I've got some basketball textured fabric to make cobbles, loads of putty work to blend and edge the paving and some grit to glue on!
Edit: The filler is B&Q brand flexible filler to try to avoid cracking, we'll see how it holds up.
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Nicely done so far, Andrew - you may tempt me to attempt something similar :)
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I look forward to seeing this develop. I've got a 3' square basketball fabric board in my dining room currently, it works well. I'm just waiting on some clear weather that coincides with free time.
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Hey everyone, some more progress has been made on the board.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img153/7475/hjin.jpg)
Here's the next stage. The red area is suede "basketball" textured fabric, it will look just like cobbles when it's painted. I glued it down with a thin layer of PVA, there may be a better adhesive solution however as I had a lot of annoyance with it wrinkling unevenly when it absorbed the moisture. A coat of thinned glue to seal it and a few hours in the sun got it tight as a drum again but we'll see if I've got it completely sealed when it comes to painting it. The brown areas are dry soil, collected from the garden and sieved to remove pebbles etc. Again I used PVA to glue and seal it, brused at the edges to feather it out a bit.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img841/6165/4ps9.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img541/7003/6nga.jpg)
Close ups. I'm going to sculpt "curbs" with putty and add more filler and cut card loose flagstones.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img4/83/s8cw.jpg)
And now for the "baffles" I'm going to cover bits of 2mm plasticard with the same textures as the board to eliminate the built in terrain features, to give more flexibility for gaming.
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This is a brilliant idea and a very helpful tutorial. Thanks
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Great looking work so far. You're way more industrious than I!
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Coming along nicely Andrew 8) 8)
cheers
James
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Looking good, mate!
8)
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That looks fricking awesome! I my have to steal this!
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I had a little time over the weekend to construct an experimental baffle (as mentioned above) for obscuring the recessed areas on the board. hopefully these pics should give you (and I) a better Idea of what the board will end up looking like.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img707/7529/gkw6.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img6/5460/uotk.jpg)
I covered the 2mm plasticard with some Wills sheeting, "basketball" fabric, a little dry soil, some cut card flagstones and sculpted some curbstones with "greenstuff" putty.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img203/2931/dt2e.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img692/2594/clx6.jpg)
Next up came a coat of primer followed by a couple of layers of ink washes and drybrushed grey. I used watered down Talens acrylic ink for the washes, mainly black but a little brown/green/sepia for tonal variety. Some cheap acrylic craft paint did fine for the drybrushing, a thin wash of ink over that helped finish it off.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img707/7765/mj0v.jpg)
Here's the finished article, A coat of matt varnish has been applied.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img845/5637/ul6n.jpg)
Afterwards I glued a sheet of 2mm neoprene foam fabric to the underside to protect the tabletop and help it sit nicely on any slightly uneven surface.
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Looking good mate!
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Ooh, that looks good. I've been a little worried about dry brushing my big piece as it might look too bland. Clearly I need to do some ink washes first, not afterwards!
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That certainly works a treat, mate.
:-*
Ooh, that looks good. I've been a little worried about dry brushing my big piece as it might look too bland. Clearly I need to do some ink washes first, not afterwards!
Do both.
It helps give definition if done before and can be used to break up blocks of 'blandness' when used in slightly differing shades after.
;)
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Nice effect on that 8)
Ooh, that looks good. I've been a little worried about dry brushing my big piece as it might look too bland. Clearly I need to do some ink washes first, not afterwards!
Do both, I do quite often and it works a treat (different shades of course).
cheers
James
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Very inspiring, got me looking to head down to they DIY store to get a table. Though I have thought about covering the external surface with a grass mat instead so I have a two sided gaming board to play with.
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Very nice, i might do the outside with blue foam for naval games! :D
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Cant find that basketball fabric anywhere, where did you get it from..?
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ebay
Hmm, can't seem to find any currently, sorry.
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(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XAFRCATIVqg/U0sAbj2_TsI/AAAAAAAAAag/N4oDPZswAhg/s1600/image_24.jpg)
Progress at last!
Hit the link or sig for more teasers.
http://steamandaether.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/building-world.html
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Wow. That looks excellent Andrew. Incredibly realistic broken up street surface :-*
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Gotta agree with Riccardo, it is really starting to come together now, mate.
Very realistic.
:-* :-*
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Cheers guys! Been away from the forum for a while as I relocated. Sorry I missed you at Salute, Paul!
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Right fellows, final steps now I have a minute to collate and post.
(http://i.imgbox.com/BdPRS0ip.jpg)
(http://i.imgbox.com/PfRrRzjT.jpg)
(http://i.imgbox.com/11jyPPs1.jpg)
(http://i.imgbox.com/gvnu2sBy.jpg)
The finishing stages were fairly straight forward. The rest of the tabletop was finished in the same manner as the earlier stages with the exception that I found sculpting curbs monumentally tedious and I ended up using lengths of styrene and card to edge whole sections of paving. It's not turned out to be to bad of a compromise, once plenty of cut card flagstones were scattered around it all blended together nicely.
(http://i.imgbox.com/ReQVLkqS.jpg)
(http://i.imgbox.com/ZLUYoOGK.jpg)
(http://i.imgbox.com/s7Awm0O0.jpg)
(http://i.imgbox.com/NECV6JvM.jpg)
Next up I covered the board with an outrageous amount of grey spray primer and panted the frame in black acrylic. This was followed by the same wash and drybrush technique as on the test baffles. The finished effect has proved devilishly hard to capture using my feeble photography skills! Hopefully the close up images posted previously will display the effect better than the shots of the whole board.
(http://i.imgbox.com/eb8WCv7d.jpg)
Next I finished the rest of the baffles, moving these around the tabletop when I set up the board should provide some nice variation to gameplay.
(http://i.imgbox.com/V6GWWftY.jpg)
And here's a shot of the board with all of the baffles in place.
As I continue building terrain I'll show off the board on the VSF forum.
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Great stuff mate 8)
cheers
James
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Beautiful
8)
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That looks brilliant, mate.
:-* 8) :-*
You must have some serious patience, with all those 'loose' bits of rubble, bricks, kerbing etc.
It is certainly worth it looking at the end result, though.
8)
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cracking work
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That looks brilliant, mate.
:-* 8) :-*
You must have some serious patience, with all those 'loose' bits of rubble, bricks, kerbing etc.
It is certainly worth it looking at the end result, though.
8)
It was a learning curve building this table that's for sure! There's lots I'd do differently should I do it again but I'm very happy with the table now it's done.
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That is an amazing result- very cleaver.
It was a learning curve building this table that's for sure! There's lots I'd do differently should I do it again but I'm very happy with the table now it's done.
what would you have done differently? If I wanted to emulate your idea what can I learn from your mistakes?
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I might not have used the BB fabric for cobbles, it looks great but was a real pain to work with. I'd have planned the basement bits better too but all in all it's pretty nice still :)
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That looks great Andrew.
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I like the "flat debris" concept. It makes the gaming board look goo while keeping it even enough to make it possible to place miniatures almost everywhere.
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Collated and posted to the blog.
http://steamandaether.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/building-world-pt2.html