Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Cubs on 15 September 2013, 04:02:54 PM
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Lidl Pine Disinfectant has now taken over from Dettol disinfectant (also known as Pinesol in the US) as my no.1 paint stripper.
It has isopropyl and pine oil (most disinfectants don't have this), combining to make a great paint stripper, and at less than 90p a bottle is about a quarter the price of Dettol.
I shall certainly be stocking up with half a dozen bottles when next I visit.
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Lidl Pine Disinfectant has now taken over from Dettol disinfectant (also known as Pinesol in the US) as my no.1 paint stripper.
It has isopropyl and pine oil (most disinfectants don't have this), combining to make a great paint stripper, and at less than 90p a bottle is about a quarter the price of Dettol.
I shall certainly be stocking up with half a dozen bottles when next I visit.
One to try then - thanks for the heads-up.
Does it add a certain something to a strawberry daiquiri though?
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Could you take a picture of the bottle? Chances are the stuff is sold under a translated name over here but I'm guessing the rest of the packaging design wouldn't change a lot.
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Will do. I'm trying to find a pic online, but for reasons unknown I can't find one.
It's called 'Beta-Zone Antiseptic Disinfectant' (the Lidl own brand) and has a big white cross on a green badge. I'll take a shot later and put it up.
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Will do. I'm trying to find a pic online, but for reasons unknown I can't find one.
It's called 'Beta-Zone Antiseptic Disinfectant' (the Lidl own brand) and has a big white cross on a green badge. I'll take a shot later and put it up.
Actually with that info I found a post on the warlord games website about the same stuff working great as a paint stripper. Fits your description so I'm pretty sure It's the same stuff. Thanks, hope they sell it over here as well. lol
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We (here in Finland) have had years a Finnish brand of Finnish Pine Oil disinfectant, called Mäntysuopa (lit. Pine Soft Soap, even though this stuff is not actually a soft soap). Hasn't failed me so far.
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This is the very badger.
(http://www.myalbum.co.uk/Photo-T6PKTGO3-D.jpg)
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I found that it worked well but left my figures very very sticky...... :o
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Rinse it.
Hot water.
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Great news thanks for the info Cubs. I cant get dettol here. Been using some kind of bathroom cleaner. Even tried toilet cleaner one time. Not very good results.
There is a Lidl v near me so problem solved. >:D
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Rinse it.
Hot water.
Hi,
I've tried rinsing a couple or three times - even using boiling water.
Its no big deal, I was only experimenting with it
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Can you use it on plastic without ill effects?
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Hi,
I've tried rinsing a couple or three times - even using boiling water.
Its no big deal, I was only experimenting with it
Maybe that's half-dissolved paint residue left on and you need to use more?
Or were the figures a softer plastic?
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Can you use it on plastic without ill effects?
Yes. You immerse the model overnight (or longer if you like) in a little pot of disinfectant and it softens and lifts all the paint away - varnish and glue too. Then gently brush the paint away with an old toothbrush. Plastics are fine although I wouldn't like to leave them in for a week (although someone else on another forum did say they had done so without ill effect), and I wouldn't use it on a soft plastic like cheap toy soldiers are sometimes made from.
Wear rubber gloves! That stuff isn't nice on your fingers and can make your skin sore if you're doing more than one model.
Don't rinse in water until all the paint has come off. Dip the brush in the disinfectant to scrub at stubborn bits. Once you rinse in water, any remaining paint will re-set. If there's a lot of paint still in place, just leave it for another night.
You can even drain the disinfectant to get the gloops of paint off and re-use it (for paint stripping).
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Thanks, I'll see if I can find some of this stuff.
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Good timing, I have a few plastics to strip.
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Maybe that's half-dissolved paint residue left on and you need to use more?
Or were the figures a softer plastic?
I had the figures in the solution for about three weeks.
The figures were metal
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I had the figures in the solution for about three weeks.
The figures were metal
Did you rub them in honey afterwards? I've heard this makes them sticky.*
*That's what she said.
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I had the figures in the solution for about three weeks.
The figures were metal
keep dipping the toothbrush in white spirit, only use water at the very end.
I've switched to this stuff EBAY LINK (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271245094622?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649) BIO STRIP 20
dog's bollox, google-fu for lots of info.
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Bought some cheers.....tired of nitromors and dettol smells....
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Castrol Dextron II was my last stripper of choice. Only ever used on metal and no residue.
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I hope to buy some tomorrow, I have a few monsterpocalypse minies that are horrendously painted by some robot. Who knows might actually get some detail out of them yet with this stuff.
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I irregularly had the stickiness problem with Dettol so I am interested in repirts on this. I currently use Nitromors on metals, which works but is horrible stuff.
A less toxic solution that I can buy locally (rural Ireland) would be great.
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I've switched to this stuff EBAY LINK (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271245094622?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649) BIO STRIP 20
Hmmm, a spray-on, eh? Interesting. I may dip my toe, so to speak, when the Lidl stuff runs out.
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Hmmm, a spray-on, eh? Interesting. I may dip my toe, so to speak, when the Lidl stuff runs out.
I don't spray it on, just pour it into jar and leave the figs in overnight. ;)
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Ah. I fear the price may prevent me from taking that course then, since the Lidl one is less than a tenth the cost.
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Ah. I fear the price may prevent me from taking that course then, since the Lidl one is less than a tenth the cost.
not really, you get more BIO 20 for your cash (don't forget the ebay price includes p&p), and you constantly reuse it, I'm on my fourth batch from the first bottle.
Plus it's not harmful to the environment, takes less time to clean up the figures, doesn't stink, doesn't burn your hands. ;)
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Will do. I'm trying to find a pic online, but for reasons unknown I can't find one.
It's called 'Beta-Zone Antiseptic Disinfectant' (the Lidl own brand) and has a big white cross on a green badge. I'll take a shot later and put it up.
...and a grinning skull above the cross? ;)
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I went to LIDL and nothing there :(,then i tried a big surface called AKI that bellongs to CARREFOUR,and my big surprise was that i found for the first time in my life SIMPLE GREEN :-*, i bought one bottle for 5,59€,it is not cheap but i had to try that magic liquid that everybody loves :D,now i have a jar full with plastic and metal miniatures ready to be the test pieces,wish me luck ;).
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not really, you get more BIO 20 for your cash (don't forget the ebay price includes p&p),
Urm ... £10.65 for 750ml of Bio-Strip vs 89p for 500ml of disinfectant.
Dude, have a lie down.
and you constantly reuse it, I'm on my fourth batch from the first bottle.
You can re-use the disinfectant too, as I said.
Plus it's not harmful to the environment, takes less time to clean up the figures, doesn't stink, doesn't burn your hands. ;)
You said you leave it overnight ... same as with the disinfectant. And I like the smell of pine.
Thanks for your recommendation, but despite your apparent passion for it, I'll leave it for now, thanks. Good shout and all, but let's not get crazy, me hearty.
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Isopropyl's basically alcohol, isn't it? The stuff you get in medical sterilising wipes, and in tins from Maplins for cleaning electronics? Don't think that should have much affect on paint. (I've tried!) I'd guess it's the other ingredients in the disinfectant.
I tried pine disinfectant - ye olde Dettol - a few years ago and wasn't very impressed when I ran into the same problems as Silent Bob. These days I swear by Fairy power spray. No long soaking, no hot rinsing, no soapy scrubbing. 8)
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Isopropyl's basically alcohol, isn't it?
It's a type of alcohol, mostly a cleaning agent and it does strip paint. It's the isopropyl that is the main paint-stripping agent (plus the pine oil) in these things. If you wipe it on paint it won't have any effect, which is why you soak it overnight.
As a few people have pointed out ... as I have tried to explain ... if the model is still sticky, it's because the model has been rinsed with water too soon and not all the paint has gone. It needs to be put it back in the disinfectant and scrubbed again.
It also doesn't work if you gargle it, pour it on your genitals, refuse to use it all all on the basis you have something else you want to use instead, if you are violently ill at the smell of pine, if you take offense at the colour of the label, or any one of a myriad of personal grievances against trying something new, following instructions or being open minded if someone tries to share a positive experience.
If anyone wishes to share any number of hideous experiences, please do feel free. I shall let this thread float gently away on a sea of faeces.
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Talking about alcohol,i tried the santinary alcohol the one you use when you cut your skin,to strip plastc miniatures,it takes mabye a couple of days,but it works,you Can let the miniatures in the jar for weeks and do not melt,as long as you let them in even the cianocrilate turns soft and you can disasemble the miniatures.My try was with plastic space marines and some rhino's and baneblade and it worked like a charm,try it.
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cubs...your comments.... Brilliant :` lol
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It's a type of alcohol, mostly a cleaning agent and it does strip paint. It's the isopropyl that is the main paint-stripping agent (plus the pine oil) in these things. If you wipe it on paint it won't have any effect, which is why you soak it overnight.
My bad. (Though I did soak!)
It also doesn't work if you gargle it, pour it on your genitals, refuse to use it all all on the basis you have something else you want to use instead, if you are violently ill at the smell of pine, if you take offense at the colour of the label, or any one of a myriad of personal grievances against trying something new, following instructions or being open minded if someone tries to share a positive experience.
I understand. I was just sharing a more positive one. ;)
Seriously though, sorry for being part of the derailment. (I know what it's like to be on the receiving end!) But the fact is that folk have the 'sticky gloop' problem with dettol. TBH the small list of steps and warnings aren't as encouraging as they might seem either, especially if they've been tried before.
In our view, refusing to use it or to follow instructions isn't so frustratingly mystifying; and for others like us, not in the know, an alternative suggestion might be useful. One that doesn't need kid gloves (Don't get it wet! Don't expose it to bright light, don't feed it after midnight...) but just works.
Sorry to use so extreme and insulting a metaphor, but pine disinfectant is the 40K of paint strippers. :P Works for lots people, they're satisfied with the results, swear by it, rub it on their etc. etc., but the procedure and level of simplicity leave a bit to be desired.
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Sorry to use so extreme and insulting a metaphor, but pine disinfectant is the 40K of paint strippers. :P
(http://www.silverdoctors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/fightin-words.png)
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[Puts head up amongst the flying bottles of Dettol, pine flavoured and sundry stripping agents ... :D]
One thing that tends not to mentioned in these discussions is the variation in paint to be stripped. You have acrylics, enamels, lacquers not to mention the primers used etc, this needs to be disclosed when talking about the effectiveness of a particular method. Being a collector of old 80's miniatures and the like, I can assure you the usual non-toxic options espoused that work fine on modern pewter and acrylics just don't cut it with 30yr old enamel encrusted lead.
The method of application is important as well, you would think soaking a figure in Vallejo airbrush cleaner would be an effective idea, it's sole purpose in life being the elimination of dried paint. Whereas in reality, even with determined scrubbing with a toothbrush, it isn't very effective at all (at least with the aforementioned 30yr old figures). Stripping with some other method (in my case harsh chemical paint stripper) and then working the airbrush cleaner in to the usually impossible to remove bits of paint in grooves and notches on the other hand is quite effective, it leaves a 'stain' behind, but you wouldn't know it once the primer went on.
So, IMHO there is no best paint stripper, just ones that work in particular scenarios ...
Cheers!
Joe Thomlinson
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I've tried most of the above with mixed success lol Sometimes I find the undercoat remains more than the surface paint (enamel then acrylics maybe) but a soak again often helps.
Two questions / points:
I find Detol goes cloudy - I assume it is because I leave the lid off the jar (secret Detol sniffer?) and it gets damp from the air in the liquid. Anyone else seen this as it reduces the cleaning power?
Has anyone seen their metal figures go a ghostly grey? It does not seem to be the classic 'lead rot' as all the details remain and no bloom is present - it almost reminds me of an odd undercoat or surface oxidisation... A scrape with a blade shows normal metal underneath so I may be the start of a rot?
Happens on older figures more than new and in Detol more than Simple Green. I've had it once on Power Spray figure.
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Has anyone seen their metal figures go a ghostly grey? It does not seem to be the classic 'lead rot' as all the details remain and no bloom is present - it almost reminds me of an odd undercoat or surface oxidisation... A scrape with a blade shows normal metal underneath so I may be the start of a rot?
Happens on older figures more than new and in Detol more than Simple Green. I've had it once on Power Spray figure.
I've had similar when using oven cleaner. Your typical harsh chemical 'gloopy' paint stripper cleans it up or you, and I've read that soaking in diluted bleach will also do the trick. Regardless of what method you use I would advise priming as soon as possible afterwards.
Cheers!
Joe Thomlinson
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One thing that tends not to mentioned in these discussions is the variation in paint to be stripped.
Pass, I've stripped a few very elderly models, but they were bought painted so I have no idea what was on them. I can confirm it worked very nicely on my old brass door hinges though, covered in a couple of decades worth of gloss paint.
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Has anyone seen their metal figures go a ghostly grey? It does not seem to be the classic 'lead rot' as all the details remain and no bloom is present - it almost reminds me of an odd undercoat or surface oxidisation... A scrape with a blade shows normal metal underneath so I may be the start of a rot?
I can't confirm that this is actually what happens but your description reminds me of something from my field of work. In goldsmithing we use vitriolic acid to clean precious metals after soldering and the like. the thing is that nearly all metals we work with are actually alloys containing both Noble and common metals, the latter of which are in fact corroded by the acid. The result is that all the by metals (the non-noble ones) are eaten away by the acid in the surface. Which leaves a tiny top layer of porous or pitted metal.
To get to the point this surface has a dull grey-white look to it which make me think that whatever stripper you are using has a similar effect on the minis.
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wusABryNA6A/Uj8F-mQ_xWI/AAAAAAAAHTA/Jl9s5kSx85I/s320/photo-709004.JPG)
I gave the Lidl stuff a shot a few days ago and so far it has turned up trumps.
Two days in a Lidl "dettol" bath with a quick scrub between game. Then another evening in white spirit and another scrub. Clean as a whistle.
I must hasten to add these figures had been repainted multiple times and were CAKED in paint.
So, while I cannot recommend it as a conversationalist or a lover - it seems to do the job as a paint stripper.
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So, while I cannot recommend it as a conversationalist or a lover - it seems to do the job as a paint stripper.
(http://assets0.ordienetworks.com/images/GifGuide/clapping/taxidriver.gif)
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I use cheap acrylic nail polish remover.
Soak for two hours then brush. Cleans them back to metal easily.
Leave figures over night and it's even easier.
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If your uk based: Wikes water based paint stripper. No stink of detol, no double dunking and no melting of fingers or plumbing plastic.