Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: ErikB on 08 May 2014, 09:48:46 PM
-
I got a unicorn for my daughter. It looks great but the horn is bent to the side. I've tried warm water and bending it but it keeps returning to this awkward, 45 degrees-off position.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
-
I use a lighter.
Just be very carefull!!
I squeeze the model between my fingers until it gets the prefered position and then quickly pass it through a burning lighter, very quickly! I do this as many times as needed untill i get the result i want.
Don't know if it will work on something as delicate as a horn though!
Maybe coating it in superglue after you use the warm water would help 'set' it ?
Also, i have noticed that if you just put it in the position you want results in 'going back' a bit. You might want to try to 'overdo' it. Reposition it 45 degrees to the other side, that way if it comes back a bit it will be straight.
-
I've had good success straightening thin parts of Reaper Bones miniatures with a hair dryer. I've also boiled them, where thicker parts have been distorted. The plastic will take a fair amount of heat before melting; I've baked Sculpey with them at 130° with no problems.
Heating will return the plastic to its original configuration, but if the miniature was distorted while it was still hot from the mould, that distortion is its original configuration. In that case, no matter what you do in the way of heating, unless you actually take it to the point of melting to realign its molecular structure, it will keep returning to its original distorted state.
If that's the case, you'll have to engage in more advanced surgery — cutting, pinning, and filling. Green Stuff works fine with Bones. Sculpey won't stick to it of itself, and will have to be glued. Milliput sticks, but cures a lot more rigid than the Bones plastic itself and can break away from its anchor points if the miniature is flexed. I haven't tried Procreate yet, but I suspect it might suffer from the same issues as Milliput.
-
I've only bent 1 reaper bones figure so far.
I put it in hot water (near boiling) for a minute or so, took it out , straightened it and immediatly submerged it in a bowl of icewater while holding it in the desired position so it would harden fast. (did the same thing for those ghastly Sedition Wars minis too)
-
I use a lighter.
lol lol i'm doing the same,works fine though ::) Melt Wizard Melt!
(http://aznbadger.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/big_game.jpg)
on another Note:Am i the only one thinking Reaper Bones are shite?i can see the Advantage of the Material on big Miniatures but overall the Casting Quality is shite imo,i wont buy anymore that said :?
-
As a backer of the second bones KS I hope my experience is better. :-I
-
on another Note:Am i the only one thinking Reaper Bones are shite?i can see the Advantage of the Material on big Miniatures but overall the Casting Quality is shite imo,i wont buy anymore that said :?
I think it's fairly good. For the price you pay for it i don't mind the extra hassle of straightening and stuff.
You can never beat a metal model but i have better experience with it over that stupid failcast.
-
I've only bent 1 reaper bones figure so far.
I put it in hot water (near boiling) for a minute or so, took it out , straightened it and immediatly submerged it in a bowl of icewater while holding it in the desired position so it would harden fast. (did the same thing for those ghastly Sedition Wars minis too)
I did this too...worked ok
-
The hot water then cold does the trick.
Also check this out: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48667-bones-frequently-asked-questions-unofficial/
-
Is there any loss of detail due to the hot water?
For example, clothing folds or unicorn twists being flattened and fingerprinted by the pressure from your hand?
Just wondering before I actually do this.
-
Not really, but I only had to soak the feet in the hot water, not the whole model.
-
I think Bones is complete crap. I'm a table top quality painter, I admit it. And I read all the 'how to paint bones' articles. I tried painting without priming. The paint wiped off. I tried washing it, scrubbing it after soaking for a day in soapy water, even used simple green. Painted it. Paint wiped off. Tried spray priming a few test models, they remained sticky for days, with the primer coming off on my hands and not sticking to said scrubbed models. Finally, I tried priming with Gesso. That seemed to work.... until I painted this:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H2p3rN7UQsk/U2gpuQaCdjI/AAAAAAAAAJg/NaHcJnB1HX0/w499-h665-no/20140505_200144.jpg)
It's been a long, long time since I painted a model that looks this crappy.
All those little white splotches are places where the paint simply will not stick. I have tried, and tried again. I've watered down the paint to reach those details, and it worked ... until the next day when I looked at it and saw the same white spots. I have inked, painted, even said screw it and GOBBED paint over the white spotty areas. Next day, same thing.
So yes, they are cheap. But I think I might just give mine to my daughter and let her paint the damn things. Or just pretend all of them are ghost models.
-
Also, the tentacles were bent on this thing so it stood at an angle, and I finally had to putty up the base to compensate for the bend. :?
-
The almost boiling water and then dipping in ice cold water has worked fairly well for me as well.
But I'm no friend of bones. All I've seen are pretty poor casts. And they do need priming, not matter what Reaper says.
-
I always prime. preferably with grey Motip primer (GW primer is very good, but too expensive for my taste), I've got gesso too, but I keep that for mdf laserkits (those things suck more fluid than a starbing vampire sucks blood...)
this is that one figure I mentioned before :
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd388/zizi666/28mm%20figs/IMG_4660.jpg)
It painted up without noticable problems.
Is your primer still good ? (the local DIY recently stopped carrying Motip in favour of their housebrand : Sencys and after a couple of tries I discarded the cans as the product is crap)
-
All those little white splotches are places where the paint simply will not stick. I have tried, and tried again. I've watered down the paint to reach those details, and it worked ... until the next day when I looked at it and saw the same white spots. I have inked, painted, even said screw it and GOBBED paint over the white spotty areas. Next day, same thing.
So yes, they are cheap. But I think I might just give mine to my daughter and let her paint the damn things. Or just pretend all of them are ghost models.
Have you tried mixing your first coat with some PVA glue? Makes it stick better!
-
I used Vallejo brush-on primer for my big purple worm (not what you're thinking, you sick freaks) and it stuck fine. It did create a lot of air bubbles which was very frustrating, as was painting white on white, so I was never sure if I was missing a spot.
The primer, paint, washes, drybrushing, etc., were a-okay. I tried rubbing off some paint (no "rubbing my purple worm" jokes, thank you...) and it stuck as if it were over primer on metal or plastic.
The mini is too thick to bend and reposition, so I don't know how well the colors stick when the mini is twisted or bent. I guess I will find that out with the unicorn and its horn soon enough.
Thanks for all the advice, folks!
-
(GW primer is very good, but too expensive for my taste)
GW do not sell primer. They sell Black paint in a can.
-
(no "rubbing my purple worm" jokes, thank you...)
You bring us here and then stop us from having fun. Seems bloody cheeky
-
(no "rubbing my purple worm" jokes, thank you...)
Aw, man... you're no fun :P
-
Can't tell if you're serious about mixing the paint with the PVA glue or not ... but couldn't hurt this thing, right?
I'm not giving up on mine just yet. Have a few other brand primers I was going to try, but might just have to start over on this critter. Like everyone else, I don't want to give up on them just quite yet -- I mean, I just bought a crap ton of these things off a buddy who did the KS then decided to dump them all on my at about 25 cents a pop :D
Is the bendy part and the pain in the butt painting problems just our trade off for really cheap models?
-
I was serious 8)
-
on another Note:Am i the only one thinking Reaper Bones are shite?i can see the Advantage of the Material on big Miniatures but overall the Casting Quality is shite imo,i wont buy anymore that said :?
No, you're not. If I would have had the chance to get some Bones miniatures before, I would never have backed the second wave. Now I had some for examination:
The pros: they are quite cheap. That's it.
The cons: bad castings with lots of detail loss; massive work to re-position nearly all weapons, arms, legs, horns etc.; many paints won't stick properly even if the mini is washed and you found a primer which will adhere, so even more preparation work here; mould lines can't be sanded but have to be cut away, hardly possible in tiny places; the conversion potential due to the soft material gets lost as most glues and putties won't stick either.
Reaper is doing real good business with this crap, so they continue to tell all is good.
I'm seriously thinking about selling my complete Bones shipment as soon as possible after it's arrival in December! :-[
-
I'm not quite so down on them as you, Admiral - I agree that you're getting what you pay for. They really are cheap and not the best to work with. The detail loss is what I find most offensive, but all those criticisms are valid.
I do think there's a place for minis that are throwaway-cheap. Sometimes you just need some placeholder or filler dorks and can't be bothered to care too much about 'em.
-
There's a post (http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48669-bones-the-first-coat-is-the-difference/) on this subject over at Reaper at the moment.
There are a couple of links at the top of the above post to articles on preparation and a general FAQ.
- FAQ (http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48667-bones-frequently-asked-questions-unofficial/)
- Preparation (http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48668-bones-preparation-glues-putties-mould-lines-etc/)
-
I'm about to start three Black Orcs in Bone. I have three in metal, too.
Looking forward to making the comparison between these almost-identical minis made out of different materials.
So far, I like the Bone material, except for the positioning frustrations. Then again, it took time to learn to reposition and to work with metal and plastic, so maybe this is simply yet another new model-building skill to develop.
-
I, too, backed the 2nd wave, and am very concerned. However, I discovered, FINALLY, a primer that works -- Tamiya primer, comes in half sized cans. Not sure anything else, as it's been sitting on my shelf for a while.
But agree -- mold lines are terrible. Can't get rid of them without a serious pain in the butt (or finger, considering how many times I cut myself trying to trim them up). Bent weapons.
I know they're cheap. And I'll probably still buy a few now and then, but I'm thinking they will see more use by my 7 year old daughter than me. Very, very disappointed in this stuff.
-
I use soft, wide nail files for removing the mold lines. Worked alright on the purple worm.
Like this (but without the cute little hearts):
http://img.webmd.com/dtmcms/live/webmd/consumer_assets/site_images/rich_media_quiz/topic/rmq_nail_problems/getty_rf_photo_of_woman_using_nail_file.jpg
Or this:
http://www.marlobeauty.com/images/T/8604.jpg
It has been successful on the wide open areas. Not sure about little nooks and crannies.
My metal files have been less successful.
-
A while ago i bought a couple of second hand Bones Reaper miniatures. The one that i fancy to painting was bend in a strange angle in respect to the base and the base was warped. Over a period of time i bended the miniature and the base into the right position. It worked but i will not buy Reaper Bones any time soon. Good luck.
-
I, too, backed the 2nd wave, and am very concerned. However, I discovered, FINALLY, a primer that works -- Tamiya primer, comes in half sized cans. Not sure anything else, as it's been sitting on my shelf for a while.
I would suspect that any primer that has been formulated specifically for plastic, which the Tamiya primer is, will work on the Bones figures.
-
I was really un-impressed with the first lot and didn't even consider the second KS. The few I tried to paint stayed tacky for weeks. Many of them were cooled in deformed positions so heating them wont fix them. If you don't already have a room full of old minis maybe the KS was good value....