Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => Pulp => Topic started by: Wolf Girl on June 20, 2014, 11:33:17 PM
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What you'll need-
A sheet of plastic (backs of miniature cases work nicely)
A good pair of scissors
A fine tip Sharpie
A toe nail clipper
2 sizes of files (big and small)
Something to trace the size base you want (we usually use pennies but for this were using a penny sized washer)
Super glue
At least one paint brush
A bottle of dull coat varnish
Whatever miniature you're wanting to base
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8054_zps57ea9c95.jpg)
Note: You want your miniature to be completely painted (and dull coated if you do that) before basing. First, you're going to want to pick out the plastic you're going to use.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8057_zps760db8f5.jpg)
Firmly press your washer against the plastic and trace in sharpie.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8059_zpsa07a03ba.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8062_zpse09075c0.jpg)
Carefully cut out the circles with your scissors. It's better to give yourself too much room than to cut inside the sharpie line.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8066_zps0d574b6d.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8067_zps131df6ce.jpg)
Next, you want to file down any weird bumps on the base or anywhere sharpie is still visible.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8069_zpsdf12cbb0.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8070_zps67f1faa1.jpg)
Now that the plastic is done, you want to use the toe nail clippers to clip off the miniatures base. (This is so much easier with slotted bases)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8074_zpsfb449721.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8077_zps4e56e7f4.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8079_zps80936512.jpg)
Next, file down the bottom of the miniature for a flat surface.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8082_zpse58f6ed5.jpg)
Now all the clipping and filing has probably chipped your miniature around the feet. Go ahead and touch that up before you glue.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8084_zps6fd20dac.jpg)
Now we can glue the mini to the base. Be sure not to use too much super glue or it'll fog up the base.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8086_zpsd071e105.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8090_zps50bb54e8.jpg)
Position your miniature on the base and hold it there until it stands on its own.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8088_zpsf93f13de.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8092_zps0d9eed35.jpg)
Optionally, you can put a layer of varnish on each side of the base. If you do this, make sure not to leave any brush strokes.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8098_zpsb38d8235.jpg)
All done!
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o665/pulpalley/League%20Rosters/Snipping%20and%20Basing/100_8103_zpsf34ffb94.jpg)
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Thanks for the tutorial. I switched to homemade clear bases myself a couple of years ago, and still have an interest in how others make their own. If I may make a suggestion, you may want to invest in a craft punch. I use these to make my bases. I have a tutorial here:
http://teumessa.blogspot.com/2012/01/tutorial-clear-bases.html
You don't really need to read the wall of text though:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GfENOJu9FvU/TyW6EqlALPI/AAAAAAAAAM4/niePJOXWPGU/s1600/Tools.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A8GY-DCW8aM/TyW6HyZfbwI/AAAAAAAAANQ/au7yS-C6mSw/s1600/Clear+Card.JPG)
My punches are from EK Success. You can purchase the punches in various shapes and sizes, but I find the smaller ones work best. If you need a larger circle, there is too much plastic for the punch to go through all at once, and your technique will be better. For the base material, I use UltraPro Top Loader card sleeves, but the punches do work on the sheet plastic used in miniature blister packs. I like to use a craft knife to cut apart the sleeves, but scissors will also work - and will probably be faster too!
Here are some pictures of my figures on the clear bases:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EREoA9aYvms/TyZGOqWPnXI/AAAAAAAAANo/oGZjUlODhmc/s1600/Montage.jpg)
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Totally awesome and thank you, thank you, thank you. :-*...." Be sure not to use too much super glue or it'll fog up the base."... is something that I wouldn't have been aware of along with applying varnish to the bases and being careful not to leave brush strokes. Always good (and better) to learn from others that have mastered the process. ;)
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Thanks Wolf Girl and Rhydderch. Very useful information.
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... My punches are from EK Success. You can purchase the punches in various shapes and sizes, but I find the smaller ones work best. If you need a larger circle, there is too much plastic for the punch to go through all at once, and your technique will be better. For the base material, I use UltraPro Top Loader card sleeves, but the punches do work on the sheet plastic used in miniature blister packs. I like to use a craft knife to cut apart the sleeves, but scissors will also work - and will probably be faster too!
Awesome, THANKS for the tips, Rhydderch! Mila can cut those circle out really fast but a craft punch is a great idea.
THANKS
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A BIG thanks to Rhydderch for his tips. We have a craft-punch now (.75") and have tried the Ultra Pro Toploader semi rigid plastic, and both work great. :D :D
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I'm just a lazy git and ordered these a while ago:
http://fenrisgames.com/shop#!/~/category/id=8776532&offset=0&sort=nameAsc (http://fenrisgames.com/shop#!/~/category/id=8776532&offset=0&sort=nameAsc)
But I must say I really like how thin those bases of yours are. Really nice.
And MY KINGDOM! for a good glue that doesn't fog on the clear acryllic...
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i am going to give it a shot . thanks :)
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Hmmm....wish I'd read this BEFORE I started my Pulp project! Sigh. Oh well...next project maybe I'll go with clear bases....
Great stuff, and nice step by step instructions...!
Mike Demana
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Thanks to Mila and Rhydderch for the tips. :) Craft punches look ideal for my purposes.
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Sally 4th have just added some clear bases to their range. Currently a choice of 17.
These are made from 2mm crystal clear acrylic. We found gluing with super-glue worked well, and that a light spray with matt varnish could be used to remove the shine.
(http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/WebRoot/Namesco/Shops/950003459/MediaGallery/Categories/Clear_Bases/all_things_zombie_clear_bases_3.jpg)
Bases are on Sally 4th at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases)
and we have a gallery of clear bases in action at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases/Clear-Basing-Gallery (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases/Clear-Basing-Gallery)
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I can see the appeal og clear bases, and these are very well made, but I can't shake my old school desire for nicely based minis.
That said the ability to use the mini on any terrain without think how the hell is there a garden growing at that girl's feet in the middle of a stone temple is really appealing! It's a tricky one....
But great job!
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I know what you mean, as I have based thousands of miniatures the old fashioned way.
It has just been the last two or three weeks since we have been making and photographing Terra-Blocks where the gaming surface is mainly wood or stone that I've though the only thing that spoils the look of the game is that beautiful diorama base with all its shrubbery in the middle of the building.
These miniatures bases are nice...
(http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/WebRoot/Namesco/Shops/950003459/MediaGallery/Battle_Reports/Pulp_Alley_Game_4/8_Pulp_Alley_Scenario_Perilous_Island_3.jpg)
... but they just don't match the terrain like these!
(http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/WebRoot/Namesco/Shops/950003459/MediaGallery/Categories/Clear_TerraBases/Clear_Basing_Gallery/dwmg_clear_bases,Medium.jpg)
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I like to use old-style bases just because sometimes I build up the base a little or undercut it just a bit if I need to subtly alter the height of a miniature.
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I like to use old-style bases just because sometimes I build up the base a little or undercut it just a bit if I need to subtly alter the height of a miniature.
That's funny. Dad used to do the same thing. lol
I'll be the first to admit I really like clear bases (blame Anpu), but I also know they aren't for everyone. Even Dad has been hesitant about letting me chop the bases off his Egyptian-themed figures. :o
I think Chris's example says it all, but to each his own.
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And MY KINGDOM! for a good glue that doesn't fog on the clear acryllic...
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/supplies/adhesives-1/plastic-model-adhesives/testors-clear-parts-cement-window-glue-w-applicator-1-oz.html (http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/supplies/adhesives-1/plastic-model-adhesives/testors-clear-parts-cement-window-glue-w-applicator-1-oz.html).
Testors Clear Parts Cement/Window Glue.
It's for modelers to use on airplane canopies and the like, where fogging is bad.
I've used it before, and it works very well.
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Thanks for the link! But does it also work with metal models?
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I try to use just a small drop of glue on both foot and then I lightly dab the feet on a piece of paper just to soak up the excess before placing it on the plastic base. I still get a little bit of fog once in awhile, but I also brush on a layer of flat lacquer and that usually covers up any fog I had.
We've had pretty good luck with the plastic bases. Only one miniature has come off its base and it was one that Dad glued, so... there ya go. lol lol lol
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Sally 4th have just added some clear bases to their range. Currently a choice of 17.
These are made from 2mm crystal clear acrylic. We found gluing with super-glue worked well, and that a light spray with matt varnish could be used to remove the shine.
(http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/WebRoot/Namesco/Shops/950003459/MediaGallery/Categories/Clear_Bases/all_things_zombie_clear_bases_3.jpg)
Bases are on Sally 4th at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases)
and we have a gallery of clear bases in action at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases/Clear-Basing-Gallery (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Clear-Terra-Bases/Clear-Basing-Gallery)
Very nice, Chris. Those look great! :-*
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Aieee! What is an old wargamer to do? I have thousands of figures based the old fashioned way. You're so right. The clear bases look fantastic and versatile. Decisions, decisions. I don't know how to begin, because once, I've done one, I have to do them all. There can be no turning back. How to do it without losing Sanity Points, I have so little of them remaining.
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I sold my sanity points to an old guy in an alleyway so I could buy more miniatures.
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I have a little over 50 figures on clear bases so far, and that's how I'm basing the new ones as I get them done.
With so much terrain to work on, it may be quite awhile before I go back to re-base the older figures.
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(http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/WebRoot/Namesco/Shops/950003459/MediaGallery/Categories/hobby/New_folder1/Rebasing_0.jpg)
We have had loads and loads of emails over the last week since we launched our range of clear Perspex bases asking about how we base / re-base figures onto them, so have added a step by step guide to taking your minis of their old bases and putting them onto some clear Perspex bases. Article is on our hobby pages at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Hobby-Pages/Pulp-Alley-28mm-Pulp-Adventure-Gaming/Rebasing-figures-onto-clear-bases (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Hobby-Pages/Pulp-Alley-28mm-Pulp-Adventure-Gaming/Rebasing-figures-onto-clear-bases)
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This is definitely an inspiration to improve our art. I want to thank you for starting this thread. A question I now have is storage and transport. Currently with the fender washers I am able to use magnetic sheeting and the Really Useful plastic boxes for transporting my forces. How do you move your "new" figures around?
I couldn't agree with you more. The clear bases are fantastic but I would like to get all the logistics out of the way before I start converting my collection.
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I use Sally 4th Warchests with the appropriate sized slots to fit the bases.
(http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/WebRoot/Namesco/Shops/950003459/MediaGallery/warchests/perspex_lid_small.jpg)
Obviously I'm a bit biased as I designed the concept of Warchests, but they are our most popular product by a long way.
They come in 5 different heights, 35mm, 52.5mm, 70mm, 100mm & 120mm, choice of no lid, solid lid or clear lid and a choice of around 40 different inserts to hold different sizes and shapes of bases.
More details at : http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Figure-Storage-Chests (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/Figure-Storage-Chests)
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I think one of those boxes would hold several Pulp Alley leagues. Great idea for folks that tote their minis around.
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Anybody tried the Litko clear bases?
(https://www.litko.net/product_images/uploaded_images/50mm-clear-bases-w-figure-on-35mm.jpg)
I see they have a variety, in 2 different thicknesses, 1.5mm & 3mm.
My carefully coddled and cultivated natural indolence moves me towards easier,
low effort, readily available solutions, DIY be damned.
'specially when I need another project like I need 'nother neck.
At first glance I like the Sally4th ones better, 'specially that oval 25x50mm one which looks perfect for my various oat burners. Chris' selection simply seems superior.
Fact remains, his products are "Across the Pond"
With all the UK social unrest lately I'd be worried about supply & availability...
Supporting fellow Pulp Alley players is important to me too.
'Druther spend my money with them than with some huge, faceless, enigmatic, all powerful, mega-gaming corporate conglomerate juggernaught...
Wait, no, No, NO!! I am NOT so describing the Phipps, & Daughter Empire, I'd never do that!!
With Pulp Alley now infesting Britain perhaps some intrepid soul will finally satisfy our hunger for officially sanctioned Pulp Alley acrylic Burst Markers in groovy psychedelic colours...
/rant(s)
Valerik
"There's death a dozen times over, down the river..."
Mr Charles Allnutt, Esq.
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I use the litko clear bases (1.5mm) for my PA minis. They work great.
I like to pin mine as this is the only way to make sure they'll stay on without fogging the plastic, so this is an ideal thickness for me. Other's mileage may vary.
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I recently thought of the circle-cutter + toploader idea as well, and it works wonderfully. I'd used 1.5mm acrylic bases to good effect, but I dislike the mirrored edge effect you get with them, which is even worse with the 3mm clear bases.
One trick I also like to do is to hide the bead of glue that often forms around the feet with a little bit of black ink. Helps hide the join between the clear base a bit
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I recently thought of the circle-cutter + toploader idea as well, and it works wonderfully. I'd used 1.5mm acrylic bases to good effect, but I dislike the mirrored edge effect you get with them, which is even worse with the 3mm clear bases.
One trick I also like to do is to hide the bead of glue that often forms around the feet with a little bit of black ink. Helps hide the join between the clear base a bit
We tried to find the clear bases and eventually gave up and started making our own. The die-cutter and top-loaders trick works wonders.
I really like the look of the clear bases from Sally 4th, but I'm afraid Dad would go through the roof if I asked to re-base all the miniatures... AGAIN. lol lol lol
I don't have much problem with a glue bead, but we brush a satin lacquer over the base as a final touch just to cut the shine a little. And that masks the occasional bead or fog thing.