Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Andym on July 14, 2014, 12:10:15 AM
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Right gents, this is going to be a difficult one for me. I've been asked to build a modular steamer for casting.
The idea will be to build one hull as a base and then have a few different bits and pieces to glue around it to give slightly different configurations.
For inspiration I'm using Damas' astounding steamer thread. He's also giving me some technical advice on where I'm going wrong
;) :D
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=25931.0 (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=25931.0)
This is only one half so far. You start off with a base and a deck and add ribs to give contours.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140712_190925_zpsudyfttua.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140712_190925_zpsudyfttua.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140712_191040_zpslsaqvfeq.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140712_191040_zpslsaqvfeq.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140712_191029_zps7pwdmlw1.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140712_191029_zps7pwdmlw1.jpg.html)
Then add a couple of layers of plastic sheet. Bits at a time. The top layer, I've imbossed rivets on to look like steel plate.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_073540_zps6ucsgqjq.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_073540_zps6ucsgqjq.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_073607_zps9xrhqkfc.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_073607_zps9xrhqkfc.jpg.html)
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That's a very unusual and interesting prow shape Andy - what gave you the idea for it?
(also, a modular steamer is a brilliant idea!)
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Oh thats looking good already, keep it up!
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Looking promising matey :)
I hope your hull doesn't kink though :?
cheers
James
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That's a very unusual and interesting prow shape Andy - what gave you the idea for it?
(also, a modular steamer is a brilliant idea!)
Actually it looks like a proper concave curved boat hull. Not the convex shape most (wrongly) use.
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That's a very unusual and interesting prow shape Andy - what gave you the idea for it?
(also, a modular steamer is a brilliant idea!)
I've been looking at any pics I can find on line. The first 2 pics are the Waverly that's based here in Glasgow.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/3884795025_4f442494fd_zps1ambyd2t.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3884795025_4f442494fd_zps1ambyd2t.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/Rothesaystebba%20003_zpsinzfrzr2.png) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Rothesaystebba%20003_zpsinzfrzr2.png.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/2009-2213_zps77yyvry9.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2009-2213_zps77yyvry9.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/Steamship_Ancon_zpskvffcjdh.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Steamship_Ancon_zpskvffcjdh.jpg.html)
Looking promising matey :)
I hope your hull doesn't kink though :?
cheers
James
There has been a couple of small kinks along the way, but what I've found is that if you take it small bits at a time it helps. You just don't do one big sheet of plastic card. It also helps having layers. The top layer with the rivet detail really secures it all in place.
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That's a great start Andy. Genuine miniature engineering. Wonderful.
I might have to buy one of these in due course. Been looking for a decent steamer for years.
Not sure I'd want the paddle wheels though... Do you intend the modularity will allow for non-paddle versions?
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The concave shape is broadly-speaking correct. However, I hate to nitpick but I think the transition is rather jarring.
Looking at the pictures andy has posted, you can see a much smoother transition in the lines of the prow, almost, but not quite a straight line. Whereas at the waterline of the model so far there's a pretty prominent bulge.
To match the posted pictures, the point where the sides become parallel at the waterline should be much further back, with a much more subtle transition, possibly not until the point where this module ends.
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It's been photographed on the arm of a chair by the looks of things, so perhaps the curve of the surface is performing optical trickery in those later shots. The shape looks right to my eyes, with the concave shape becoming more prominent the lower down the hull you go towards the keel, and the upper shape looking more convex.
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That looks great! Maybe narrow it a bit at the 4th or 5th rib (From the bow back and from the waterline up making the base footprint narrower... Follow?) it would would make the transition a bit smoother. You wouldn't lose any deckspace either. The concave is good. I was changing the zincs under one yesterday and unless its a sailboat it'll be concave... For the most part.
I know what's coming... Another Andym gem!
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I don't think the chair arm is distorting anything - the shape is pretty clear in the photos
I'm at work, so all I have is MS paint, but here's essentially what I'm talking about:
(http://i.imgur.com/Of9dt5I.jpg)
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Still looking good Andy!
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Precisely, Fram. IMHO.
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I don't think the chair arm is distorting anything - the shape is pretty clear in the photos
I keep looking, but ... it looks okay to me.
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If I had just a modicum of your skills Andy........
As Capt B said, this may be the model that convinces me I need a steamer.
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Precisely, Fram. IMHO.
I think Andy is reading the lines of the hulls correctly, it's just that the transition he's sculpting takes place over a wider area on the real ships, further back and also well below the waterline.
If you look right at the waterline on the photos Andy posted, you can see it.
This shot is the clearest of what I mean:
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/3884795025_4f442494fd_zps1ambyd2t.jpg)
But this photo is good too, if you look right along the line between the black and the brown (which I believe corresponds to the waterline):
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/2009-2213_zps77yyvry9.jpg)
The curves are graceful and barely there at all. In fact they'd be easy to mistake for a straight line.
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That's a great start Andy. Genuine miniature engineering. Wonderful.
I might have to buy one of these in due course. Been looking for a decent steamer for years.
Not sure I'd want the paddle wheels though... Do you intend the modularity will allow for non-paddle versions?
Yes, that's one of the ideas. I'm thinking different cabin options, funnels, cranes, and what-not! I don't know if it's worth making up some Nef parts too?
@Fram and Gary- Thanks for the constructive criticism. It always really helps me get things right!
I think you're both exactly correct! There's few problems I have though. The full hull can only be 18" long. If I make the transition any longer there won't be any room for paddle units either side. The other problem is all the plastic sheet is welded together with polystyrene cement. It's not just the bottom that needs changing, I would need to rip ALL the sides off to be able to get into the ribs and adapt them! I would need to start ALL over again!!! :'( :'( :'( And the last thing....I tried cutting the hull off and nearly slit my wrist with the fecking knife!! :o :o Do you both think I can get away with leaving it as is?
The more I look into ships it seems my hull maybe more battle ship then steamer. This is a couple of pics I found of the Bismarck
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/illustr_bismarck_01_zpso4txnt77.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/illustr_bismarck_01_zpso4txnt77.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/Bismarck_Walkaround01_041_002_zpsfaqttifi.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Bismarck_Walkaround01_041_002_zpsfaqttifi.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140715_075841_zpsma3ztivo.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140715_075841_zpsma3ztivo.jpg.html)
It looks like I might need to fix the port side. You were right Jim, a couple of the plates kinked....
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140715_075814_zpsklvjcc3x.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140715_075814_zpsklvjcc3x.jpg.html)
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My guess would be that you've used too much solvent mate and as the fumes have no way out between the ribs they have attacked the styrene, hence the 'warping' you can see.
Unfortunately it will only get worse and the only suggestion is to start again.
Soul destroying I know but there's no other option :(
You might be able to cut a couple of hull panels out and just do those but then again, it might be more trouble than it's worth.
cheers
James
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I don't think I'll need to go that far James! If I can pull the top layer off I reckon I might be able to pack the underneath with thin GS and put a new plate back on top. It won't help for the overall shape but it should repair the panel mate!
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How about sanding some blue foam to the right shape and placing it inside so it is bulking the panel back out?
It might be easier that way.... ???
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Blue foam and styrene glue (the solvent type) don't mix at all. You could coat the foam in pva or some such but it's a lot more work.
I hope the packing out works mate :)
cheers
James
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It's a great looking hull, but the lines do suggest speed over cargo.
Still, the rule of cool will likely win out because it has great detail.
I think you're both exactly correct! There's few problems I have though. The full hull can only be 18" long. If I make the transition any longer there won't be any room for paddle units either side.
The more I look into ships it seems my hull maybe more battle ship then steamer.
If I were to buy a ship for gaming it would both have to look the part and fit on my table. So a caricature of a ship, with distortion and compression of lines, is in order. I think you are heading down the right path.
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May I suggest You leave the warped surface as it is in order to simulate battle damage? Give it a rough PJ to check how it looks. "used look" is priceless
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Warped surface looks good to me.
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Andy has never broken the Rule of Cool yet!
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Well, let’s look at a couple of things.
For the current problem with the kinks, maybe greensuff is the answer if you don't want to go for a full rebuild? You'll have a devil of a time getting it all smooth though, so I think the main question there is what will take longer: a full rebuild or a repair job. Something to consider is asking some model ship makers what they do.
If you decide it’s best to just rip the band-aid off and go with the full rebuild route, I don't think you have to go too far to get a reasonable result. But it may be worth asking yourself exactly what type of steamer you’re building.
Is this an interwar ship? Pre-world-wars? Trying to be as universal as possible will be a bit tough as there are some important design changes over time (raked bows, hull tapering, etc.). A hybrid between many forms may work, but you’ll definitely have to abandon those strong concave waterline cuts at the bow and opt for something smoother.
If this is primarily a commercial merchantman, this may be quite a bit easier as there’s less variation. Let’s look at some actual freighters.
First, here’s the #1 candidate for a tramp steamer: The Standard Built merchant ship.
In WWI, there was an admiralty push towards several common designs. They had more variations than the later WWII shipbuilding programmes, but were still far more standardized than pre-war ships.
(http://www.mariners-l.co.uk/war%20aconite.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/xnBl8eA.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/xLdugiB.png)
(http://www.cocatrez.net/Water/FerrisShips/FerrisWaterline_web.gif)
Additionally, the Americans added to this with their “Hog Island” ship designs (another mass-production shipping programme), which were very similar.
(this first one is a troopship/hospital ship variant)
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/74/USS_Samaritan_AH-10.jpg)
(http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/5337/hogislandergerman.jpg)
(http://battlefleetmodels.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pict0581hi.jpg)
Note that both ship types feature a confusing silhouette that makes distinguishing the bow from the stern tough (not something I am suggesting you duplicate, since that will increase the size of the model for little benefit).
Many of these freighters were sold around the world and wound up in service in all sorts of countries, in tramp service, etc. and were enormously common during the interwar period as well as during WWII.
Second, during WWII proper, there came the Victory Ship and Liberty Ship designs. These were mass-produced by the allies in WWII to offset convoy losses and rapidly increase tonnage across the Atlantic and formed probably the largest shipbuilding programmes in history.
Victory Ships:
(http://www.hnsa.org/ships/img/lanevictory2.jpg)
(http://themaritimeblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Pan+American+Victory-500x375.jpg)
(http://www.historicships.com/TALLSHIPS/Bluejacket/VictoryShip/Victory-ShipWeb.jpg)
Liberty Ships:
(http://www.skylighters.org/troopships/libshipschematic1.jpg)
(http://www.marine-marchande.net/FM/Liberty-ship/Images/Plan-Liberty-JYB-moy.jpg)
In terms of size, tramps tended to be closer to Standard Built ships than Victory or Liberty ships, but were still well within the normal size range.
The size of tramp ships remained relatively constant from 1900 to 1940, at about 7,000 to 10,000 deadweight tons (dwt.). During World War II, the United States created the Liberty Ship; a single design that could be used to carry just about anything, which weighed in at 10,500 dwt
Many of those ships have almost no concave shapes in their bow taper, and older models are even straight-up convex. Alternately, if you’re building a ship that covers a larger span of time or other purposes, you may keep a more tapered bow (passenger ships, like warships, would be built more for speed and require a longer, more tapered bow, though either way, I would still suggest a smoother transition (my red line example).
One thing to note: If you look at the Bismarck and other large warships, you'll see they have almost an oval shape all 'round rather than the parallel or nearly parallel sides a freighter has (for sidling up to the dock to off load cargo and also to make them cheaper to build).
What are you planning in terms of modules? When I saw your first shape, I thought you could taper the whole front section's waterline, only just coming to a parallel at the end of the section. You really wouldn't lose any playing area, but lines would look much more graceful, even on a short ship. Part of the reason I ask is that you say you need to have a ship that's no more than 18" long, but with a modular ship design, why worry about a fixed length? Or maybe that's the minimum length? I.E. If you use the bow module, stern module and only one middle module, your ship should not exceed 18"? But if you want to use extra middle modules, you can? One thing about the freighters above is that they lend themselves to modular designs: “command” section with superstructure “cargo” section, with cargo hatches and cuts in the rail, etc.
How long is that bow section? I imagine it's going to be the biggest module - the stern can be a simple hemi-circle (or an overhanging stern as shown in the liberty ship image above if you want to be really ambitious, but that's a complex shape and lots of freighters didn't bother with anything so noticeable). If building larger ships is possible, then I think you can afford to have a little more taper to your bow. My guess is an 8" bow with other sections being 5"? Or a 9" bow, 4" stern, and 5" midsections? Or...?
I still think the project is a great idea and that a few kinks along the way are things that can be overcome. Hopefully some of this info comes in handy!
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I was looking again at the image you uploaded today. I realized a fix for the shape might not be as difficult as imagined.
(http://i.imgur.com/zPQ2dpj.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/swLHmkD.jpg)
The blue circled part is perfectly fine - no need for a change. The red circled part is where you have trouble - compare the Bismarck picture where the same area is circled, even with the battleship's speedier build, the curve is much more streamlined.
BUT this might be okay! Cutting away the yellow-circled area will let you fix the shape, and on the oppopsite side you can also cut away the worst kinked areas. Then, you can fix up just those area with some replacement styrene bridged with greenstuff as a gap filler/smoother.
The main difficulty is the cutting - you mentioned you couldn't cut it by hand. What about mechanical cutting? Do you have a dremel or other small cutter?
Then again, I think the real issue is that the the concave curve flares outward much sooner on the battleship. This might be true for merchant ships too, so the only fix there is a total rebuild :'(
Here's what I think it might look like with lines closer to the merchant ships from my post above:
(http://i.imgur.com/6bOKnNA.jpg)
I wonder if you can get a template from a model shipbuilder site, perhaps?
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So I've put together this. It's not got the multiple layers on it yet but at least it gives a general idea of shape! I think this is pretty close to Frams cargo ship pics.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_215544_zpsgsv3sc7f.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_215544_zpsgsv3sc7f.jpg.html) (http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_215527_zpsmwdozk9i.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_215527_zpsmwdozk9i.jpg.html)
What do we think? Any better?
My next problem will be the back! Anybody any idea how I shape a round-ish are end AND manage to put on a top layer of plate detail? o_o o_o
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Better shape for a cargo ship, yes :)
Have you got any vent holes for the solvent fumes?
You could get the back vac-formed and then use the pen for the rivets but it would need a solid former of the shape.
The other option would be to keep the angle of the hull the same as it goes down the straight side and wraps round the back, that way you only have one curve to worry about and not a compound curve that would make shaping it difficult.
cheers
James
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That looks better.
I look forward to watching your progress.
If you haven't seen this related topic, you may want to take a look;
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=68567.0 (http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=68567.0)
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That looks great! Better for sure.
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Looking good!
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Better shape for a cargo ship, yes :)
Have you got any vent holes for the solvent fumes?
You could get the back vac-formed and then use the pen for the rivets but it would need a solid former of the shape.
The other option would be to keep the angle of the hull the same as it goes down the straight side and wraps round the back, that way you only have one curve to worry about and not a compound curve that would make shaping it difficult.
cheers
James
There's no holes for the fumes James. I've figured if I can keep the plastic card tight enough for a minute until the glue slightly sets, it seems to work!
The vac formings a good idea. It's either that or I need to form a rough shape then gs and sand it. Then its just getting rivets on some how! I quite fancing a more difficult option than just a curved back end.
I've managed to make a turret for this. I'm trying to do a compromise between real life and playable. I didn't want the turret taking up the whole deck.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140719_132446_zpscxvlqwkd.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140719_132446_zpscxvlqwkd.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140719_132514_zpsgss0dmuz.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140719_132514_zpsgss0dmuz.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140719_132526_zpsxvu3fnm6.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140719_132526_zpsxvu3fnm6.jpg.html)
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Great work! This bow hull looks much much better!
This might give you some inspiration too: http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=68567.msg837774#msg837774 it's a different sort of modular freighter.
As far as the stern goes, Jim has a pretty solid idea there. The simplest way of doing it is a semi-circle deck, where the hull simply wraps around doing a 180, while maintaining the same vertical slope. If you want to push your luck farther, the rear angle can be slightly more severe than the sides.
Then just add the top of a rudder post in the space between the waterline and the back of the hull.
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Lovely :-*
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What length is the ship going to be?
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Interesting project to follow ... :)
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What length is the ship going to be?
The main hull can't be any more than 18" Colin. That's the size of Ainstys Vac chamber.
I've managed to get a bit more done on this I've found that if you do more layers of thin plastic card that overlap and spread the polystyrene cement evenly it doesn't kink anywhere near as much. I think the new hull looks a lot better than the old one. I may go back to the old one and fix it.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113327_zpsygztkkke.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113327_zpsygztkkke.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140728_172040_zpsvw3icoxz.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140728_172040_zpsvw3icoxz.jpg.html)
I've also started a few different cabins to allow some different configurations. I'm also halfway through making the stern using G'S and high density rigid foam. The funnel that's pictured here will have to be scrapped as I did it before I realised how to not see the thin plastic card buckle!! :(
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113050_zps99nqmnhn.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113050_zps99nqmnhn.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113144_zpsw1yb5qsr.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113144_zpsw1yb5qsr.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113159_zpsuzuuh1ui.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113159_zpsuzuuh1ui.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113004_zpsrgizm8ht.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140729_113004_zpsrgizm8ht.jpg.html)
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Looking promising mate 8)
I would suggest that the funnel is a tad large maybe?
cheers
James
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maybe You could also think about taking down the cabin heights 1-2 cm, due to proportion issues
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Looking promising mate 8)
I would suggest that the funnel is a tad large maybe?
cheers
James
Yip! I agree. I tried to get away with wrapping plastic card around a tube I just happen to have. I need to find something smaller.
maybe You could also think about taking down the cabin heights 1-2 cm, due to proportion issues
I'm not sure that work work mate. I think they'd look too small against a 28 mm figure. What might work better would be to lengthen/up scale the hull. I should see Andy at the weekend at Claymore, I'll discuss the options with him then. He might want to go for the modular hull, where you could have ANY length of boat by joining as many bits as you fancy together!
Thanks for the comments gentlemen, they always help!!
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I may be in a minority, but still liking the 'old' hull.. There is some great character to it.
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Very nice work.
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Interesting variation between both bow styles. Perhaps a modular approach to the boat hull would enable both to be considered?
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I may be in a minority, but still liking the 'old' hull.. There is some great character to it.
Cheers gents!!
Depending on what Ainsty wants, i may save that old hull by adding extra layers of plastic card.
Interesting variation between both bow styles. Perhaps a modular approach to the boat hull would enable both to be considered?
Thanks Kev!
Ill speak to Andy this weekend mate and see what he wants. It could be an option for a couple different bows and sterns?
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I'll say it again Andy, you're a bona fide scratchbuilding genius! I know nothing about boat hulls but I could see the first hull as being a pulp era experimental design or something, there's certainly a pleasing look to the way it curves. A modular boat design is a great idea.
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I may be in a minority, but still liking the 'old' hull.. There is some great character to it.
Cheers gents!!
Depending on what Ainsty wants, i may save that old hull by adding extra layers of plastic card.
Thanks Kev!
Ill speak to Andy this weekend mate and see what he wants. It could be an option for a couple different bows and sterns?
x2 to what Mr. Peabody said, I too like the first hull quite a deal, perfect look and shape for that rusty yet trusty old bucket that has sailed the seven seas and back countless times. So no "saving" needed with new layers of plastic card but continuing with that just as it is and making another hull option for those who want a more "been around the world and back" look for their ships :)
All in all, yet another cool project, much kudos to your skills.
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So after being on holiday for a couple of weeks I've found myself with a severe lack of mojo! ! :'( :'(
This is my effort to try and get me back into the hobby! It supposed to be a lifeboat and one side of the crane to lower it from the ship. I've used a high density foam that I found scraps on, on a building site and covered it with GS. I'll add a GS tarpaulin to the top to hide the upper parts of the ropes. ...
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140907_202846_zpscu5aagc1.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140907_202846_zpscu5aagc1.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140907_202756_zpsdjmbncph.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140907_202756_zpsdjmbncph.jpg.html)
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a605/andymac2105/Mobile%20Uploads/20140907_202738_zps8hyuarhe.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/andymac2105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140907_202738_zps8hyuarhe.jpg.html)
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A fine bit of work mate and glad to see you back 8) 8) 8)
cheers
James
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Nice greenstuffing! I was wondering how this project was getting on.