Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: FramFramson on 03 August 2014, 04:19:41 AM
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I'm hoping to make a few bottles for scenery or base detailing. Does anyone know an easy way to get a simple 28mm bottle shape but transparent or translucent? I could make a shape and pressmold it, no problems but I have no idea what to put in the silicone pressmold - could I use 2-part epoxy glue with some ink mixed in, or will that stick to the silicone hopelessly.
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Short answer: resin.
Long answer: transparent or translucent resin.
Just found this on Google ("making clear miniatures"):
http://miniatures.about.com/od/techniques/ss/Make-A-Simple-Mould-And-Cast-A-Range-Of-Clear-Bottles-From-Epoxy-Resin-Or-Fimo.htm
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A friend of mine pretty much took some of the thicker plastic from an old, broken CD case and carved it up into bottle shapes when he made a few RPG terrain pieces. Considering the cuts to his fingers, I'd suggest some of the reinforced gloves before doing it if you'd like to keep from bleeding.
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Short answer: resin.
Long answer: transparent or translucent resin.
Just found this on Google ("making clear miniatures"):
http://miniatures.about.com/od/techniques/ss/Make-A-Simple-Mould-And-Cast-A-Range-Of-Clear-Bottles-From-Epoxy-Resin-Or-Fimo.htm
Seems like epoxy is good to go in silicone molds then (which makes sense since greenstuff is technically a close analog and it doesn't stick either).
Worst case scenario, I ruin a little tiny bit of my silicone, boo hoo hoo.
One case of Lock Lomond whisky, coming up...
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Zealot miniatures sell clear resin bottles if you want to buy.
Otherwise maybe use some Lego pieces. Those small circular things might work a little bit if you press old them.
Edit, got the wrong message there. Sorry. I've seen clear resins at hardware store for fairly cheap. Experiment with acrylic inks maybe?
Also be aware if the resin you are using reacts exothermically. That might affect a press mold that requires heat for the mold to be made, (like those mouth guard materials)
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Do you know these?
http://shop.lastcavalry.com/meng-models-water-bottles/
http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/meng-model-beer-bottles-vehiclediorama-p-44903.html
http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/meng-model-drink-bottles-vehiclediorama-4types-p-43837.html
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Oh sure, I saw those a while ago. Cheap, but not as cheap as making my own!
Plus none of them look like whiskey or wine bottles!
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Maybe get some small (2mm? 3mm?) plastic/acrylic rod and use files and wet/dry sandpaper to "turn" the bottle shape you need, similar to how you might turn a shape on a lathe?
Chucking the rod into a power drill or Dremel would probably be overkill (and seems likely to just destroy the rod) but using a pin vise to hold it might work.
I'm fairly sure I've seen someone (maybe even here on LAF) do bottles, glasses and goblets this way, now that I'm thinking about it.
You'll probably break an awful lot of acrylic rod in the learning curve, mind you.
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'Water effects' could be used in the mould :)
I would also second the acrylic rod in the power drill as this is the method we use at work for similar small elements.
cheers
James
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The clear sprue canopies come on in model kits. Usually is round and of right diameter. Aside from carving or wet sanding as mentioned you can heat it up (gently) over a candle ( I like tea light candles for this) and while twirling it gently to heat evenly, stretch it a bit which will give you the tapered neck. Snip when cool. Also you could use plastic swizzle sticks which come in interesting colours - often comes with fancy alcoholic beverage :).
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I've tried the turned clear sprue thing. It's doable, but fussy unless whatever you're using as a lathe can go slow. I was using my Dremel tool, and even with the speed slider all the way down, it was still very touch-and-go to avoid melting the plastic via friction. I didn't end up succeeding (got a couple bottles almost finished before ruining them), but I got far enough to prove to myself it's doable if one is careful enough. An extension cord with an in-line dimmer knob might make things easier.
Casting epoxy resin can def work. Whether or not it plays nice with silicone molds depends on the rubber formula, in my experience. I've had it go both ways on different projects. One major thing about clear epoxy to keep in mind is that it will yellow over (a surprisingly short) time.
Another material maybe worth trying is two-part acrylic resin. Check beauty supply places for it: it's used in making and finishing fake nails. Comes as a powder and a liquid hardener that when mixed together sets up quickly into a nice hard plastic. Clear and translucent white are the most common colors (obviously clear is what you want).
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Just saw this tutorial for making bottles from transparent sprues:
http://www.fcmodeltips.com/2013/10/botellas-de-cristal-glass-bottles.html
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Just saw this tutorial for making bottles from transparent sprues:
http://www.fcmodeltips.com/2013/10/botellas-de-cristal-glass-bottles.html
Thats a fantastic tutorial, with some very good results!!!! Thanks for sharing. Going to give it a try Fram?
Cheers
Matt
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Maybe if moulding doesn't work, I'll see about grabbing some transparent sprue somewhere.
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Maybe if moulding doesn't work, I'll see about grabbing some transparent sprue somewhere.
A bit of advice if you want to try the tutorial - use a candle instead of a lighter, it's far easier to control the flame that way. I didn't do any bottles, just antennas but I can see how easy it is to do them.
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For beer and wine bottles that tutorial looks brilliant!
I recall once seeing a WIP thread somewhere on the 'net where a guy made custom "glowey" chest plates for his Necrons by melting down fluorescent green styrene (chopped-up cocktail stirrers, IIRC) in a spoon, junkie-style, and cast it in a press mold he'd made.
I know you can also dissolve styrene in MEK (Testors liquid cement) to create a paste which re-hardens as the solvent evaporates out. I read about it like ten years ago as a way to putty gaps in plastic models, and tried it myself. As a putty it left something to be desired IMO, but there might be a way to pervert that into a casting method. Biggest thing I guess would be whether clear plastic handled that way would re-solidify clear or cloudy.