Lead Adventure Forum
Miniatures Adventure => The Second World War => Topic started by: Bob Emmerson on 14 September 2014, 05:03:11 PM
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I've recently added this to my kickstarter, but I would like to get some feed back from gamers now I have made my first test-cast
The parts:
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly01_zpsdb0c2d3e.jpg)
Total of 12 components... well that's counting the rockets sprues as one piece for each. It may be more accurate to say 26 components, but it depends how you do the assembly.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly02_zps09c99249.jpg)
My intention is that the rockets are glued to the rails whilst attached to the sprue
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly03_zps8e0f3db9.jpg)
Cutting them off with a knife is a bit tricky, might be easier to do it with a Dremel saw (and dust mask)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly04_zpsb1ad3d75.jpg)
The other side rockets added. The underside of the launch rails is a bit of a mess, but should be hidden.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly05_zps91711457.jpg)
I need to redesign the moulds for the supports, they are a bit hard to cast at the moment.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly06_zps026d9d0c.jpg)
The wheel attaching points are just chunky enough for solidity. The undercarriage is lacking, but it seems to me that few wargames care for underside details, please tell me if I am wrong.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly07_zpsdfce43ff.jpg)
The pins for the rail supports are a bit too flimsy.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly08_zps0620959b.jpg)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly09_zpsa36daafa.jpg)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/KatyushaAssembly10_zps1ab7e3ea.jpg)
So what needs improving? I can re-print a few components in the next print run (but redoing everything would be a bit expensive). I can also rework the moulds to reduce flash and airbubbles.
Candid opinions please.
Cheers
~ Bob
MadBobMiniatures
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No offence, but it looks quite messy all round. Not just in terms of flash, but a really rough surface texture.
Is it supposed to look like it's turning?
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None taken - I want honest opinions :)
I'll smooth down the masters before the next moulding, possibly give them a satin or gloss varnish (the texture is caused by the printing process on the master, some like it, others don't).
Yes I deliberately lined up the wheels to be turning.
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That might help the flat surfaces, but there are places where flash is getting into small areas which would be a pretty significant task to clean, like the holes on the rails, or the tire treads on the sidewalls.
Also, intentionally turning the wheels on models like this is sort of something that can go either way. It adds a small touch of verisimilitude when stationary, but it also means the truck can't be used as credibly in mobile scenarios.
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Flash or texture? The flash in-between the rockets is a case of changing where the mould splits. The texture on the wheels can be fixed without damaging the tread. The remnants of flash between the rails can be fixed by sanding the bottom. I'll work on it.
The turning wheels was a personal choice, the design itself allows the wheels to be perfectly straight. As test pieces end up in my personal collection, this one will be on a diorama base turning round a street corner.
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To me the flat surfaces of need to be smooth - I know that these are from the printing, but if you can clean them up before casting it would be better.
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Looks like it would be slow and patient work cutting/ snipping the rockets from the sprue without breaking them. Might be more sensible to use the nose rather than delicate fins as the attachment point.
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To me the flat surfaces of need to be smooth - I know that these are from the printing, but if you can clean them up before casting it would be better.
I will do when I get to the production model. From the start this mould was purely as a test piece other wise I would have done.
Looks like it would be slow and patient work cutting/ snipping the rockets from the sprue without breaking them. Might be more sensible to use the nose rather than delicate fins as the attachment point.
Interesting point, I shall try that on the next test mould
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I like the underside. The fact that the axles are already mounted is a plus for me. No need for copious amounts of details there...
I also agree that flipping the flash on the rockets from the tail to the nose would be a lot easier to clip off and clean up.
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Yes, a plain underside is perfectly fine. We're gamers not modellers. Also, another idea is for the sprue that connects the rockets to simply be thinner than it is now.
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I have narrowed down the join between the rockets and the sprue.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/Katyusharedesign01_zps0a838adc.jpg)
The fins are 0.8 thick, the join is 0.4mm thick. This should create a stress razor effect that leaves the fins intact. On reflection I realised that the main sprue has to be at the tail end, as otherwise the fins would be nothing but air bubbles.
I will be adding a lesser sprue to the nose end, as some of the rockets were a bit stubbier that intended (trapped air pockets).
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/Katyusharedesign03_zps46fb8bf2.jpg)
The rail support attaching points have been increased to 2.4mm diameter (from about 1.2mm diameter) to make a sturdier connection.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/madgrotbob/Soviet/Katyusharedesign02_zpsf47cd9e2.jpg)
And the Support rails have been doubled in width.
I've also thickened the wheel-arches to hug the wheels a bit closer, so as to prevent the axle points from snapping. This will only be visible from underneath (I'm glad you aren't too fussed about that).
Thanks for all the suggestions
~ Bob
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The textures do look very rough...I'd consider attaching the rockets by the nose. Much easier to snip a tiny nose-joint, and sand down the front of the rocket than the back. Carving/cutting/clipping an "X" of material is messy no matter how you do it. Could you invert the rockets on the sprue? It would make them a little more prone to breaking off - but would be much easier on the modeller.
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I'd consider attaching the rockets by the nose. Much easier to snip a tiny nose-joint, and sand down the front of the rocket than the back. Carving/cutting/clipping an "X" of material is messy no matter how you do it. Could you invert the rockets on the sprue? It would make them a little more prone to breaking off - but would be much easier on the modeller.
I've tried it, sadly it can't be done without sacrificing the fins to air bubbles.
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I've tried it, sadly it can't be done without sacrificing the fins to air bubbles.
What about making the rail and rockets as 1 solid piece?
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What about making the rail and rockets as 1 solid piece?
It's feasible, so long as only the top rockets are part of the rail. To do both sets of rockets that way would increase the number chance of uppermost set (within the mould) filling with bubbles.
I have to wait until new masters and new rubber arrives, hopefully next week.
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nice model, but the printing process does leave any model a bit furry.
what scale is it?
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It is 1/56
I use SLS printing for most of my masters, and it results in a grainy texture. It can be cleaned up by careful buffing, painting the master and giving it a gloss varnish (these were not done in this case, but will be when I receive the redesigned and reprinted masters).
SLS printing allows the same level of detail on all faces. The other main method of printing (FDM) can give a smoother finish, and achieve higher detail, but only on the upper faces. With FDM the underside of the master and any undercuts suffer from (often horrific) scarring from the support material. SLS does not use support material as they literally shoot lasers into a box of Nylon dust.
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Have you considered higher resolution prints?
I would do the thinner pieces in metal. But you would need a better master print.. It's more expensive, but you may only need it for a few parts.
I'd do the rockets high res as well.
-Brent
Company B