Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Too Bo Coo on 28 January 2015, 12:36:25 AM
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I stalled out on my Mad Mad project, mostly from overintimidation from the paint scheme....
So, how would you paint this? Lets say with an airbrish...
(http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i149/eaodak/3057518618_bef67d82e1_zps15541f75.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/user/eaodak/media/3057518618_bef67d82e1_zps15541f75.jpg.html)
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I can't see this done any other way then with a good airbrush, but boy, masking tape is your friend on this one.
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Masking tape, a light coloured primer & do the yellow first! Much easier to cover the yellow with blue than the other way around.
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You guys are confirming my thoughts, cheers! I've been trying to figure this out, but I think to spray the entire thing in yellow. Tape off the top, spray in red. Tape off to paint blue, then tape to paint white. It seems to only reasonable way to my mind, tape is a must! I have a bunch of different thicknesses from taymia, so I'm good there. :D
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You forgot the white lines...
I'd start in white, tape, yellow, tape, red, tape, blue.
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You forgot the white lines...
I'd start in white, tape, yellow, tape, red, tape, blue.
I mentioned the white last. I've been thinking about the white first, but it's a very thin line and would have to be kept clean from the very beginning. But if I do it last, I can use it to fix any problems where the red and blue meet. Does that make sense? But I will spray the yellow on a white basecoat.
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You forgot the white lines...
Well, they do have a tendency to blow away.
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Well, they do have a tendency to blow away.
lol
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsTJaP2tC0A
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Cheat.
Paint the yellow, then the blue.
Then use transfers for the red and white.
Which would work if it were a perfectly flat surface..... :-[
White last would probably create difficulties in covering blue and red, unless applied thickly, which would nt do for these thin lines.
What I'd have no idea about are the curved lines on the front sides - not easy to mask at all.
Dare I ask what scale?
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I would say decals on a yellow base. Depends how clean you want it.
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If your building this no Bigger than 28mm,then your over thinking it.
It can be done in simple hand painted method where your never painting more than one edging line at a time.
Start with a white undercoat.Then paint the red down the centre of the car.Then edge the centre red with blue to create a straight edge to the red.Then on the other side to form the width of the red line.Then edge the blue with white to the correct width of the blue,on both sides.Then edge the white with red to form the white line.Then use white agian to form the outer edge of the roofs red line.
Paint your yellow in when you get down to the lines on the side you can edge the yellow with red or re white then red over the top,The do the lower edge of the red with white,the the lower edge of the white with blue.
At no point are you trying to paint two straight edges to one thin line of colour.Only ever painting one straight edge to bring the previous colour to a straight edge.a much easier way to paint a straight edge.
Its a lot faster than masking and remasking.
These day's my airbrush gather's more dust than use as I tend only to use it to cover large area's or to paint horse's.
Mark.
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The car is 1:64 scale hot wheels, so lets call it 20mm. :D
I think the striping via masking, while tedious, will turn out the best results and help insure symmetry for the lines. Also, I want it as smooth as possible, and any 'ease' I would have via a brush would be lost quickly trying to keep the finish smooth. I think white will go down fine, but I may lay down some silver first to cover the red and blue... :D
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At that scale I would paint rather than airbrush.As the length of the lines are quiet short,ie bonnet,roor,and boot.But I do it for a living,for me it's more about time costs vs method.As masking and re masking eat time and will cost more.
What ever method or combo you use Im looking forward to seeing the end product.Good luck.( you could just paint it black lol )
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Well, they do have a tendency to blow away.
lol lol lol
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I think that at 1/64 scale, it's going to be.... interesting. Even with good masking tape. :o Might have to go more for the general impression than getting every detail.
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How do you guys prep diecast cars for painting with acrylics? I'm about to tackle a police car for the Batman minis game, and I've no idea how to get the enamel paint off (or whether I even need to).
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When painting Hotwheels or Matchbox, I don't bother stripping them first unless the original paint is obscuring something. Prime over it and go.
Keep the primer light so it doesn't fill gaps though.
Soaking the metal cars in mineral spirits takes the paint off pretty well if you want to do that.
I have never stripped one of the plastic bodies, so I don't have a suggestion there.
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The quick way is to keep to the original colour,and matt varnish the car.highlight door edges etc.Re paint chrome parts the same way you paint plate armour.always paint the wheels,Personally I paint over the window glass as it always reminds you its a toy car.(also you don't have to strip it down to paint the seats).
For me not re varnishing in gloss is the way to go.Or a satin for a light shine.
But the big must for me is shade the gaps around a door,bonnet,etc.Its that little gap full of bright paint that shouts toy more than anything else.(Its a bit like display games where someone has half killed them selves to make beautiful buildings or spaceship corridoor's then paint it mono tone of under coat grey or sand brown.Without shading great work looses depth and falls flat.)
I hope that doesn't sound like a rant lol
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How do you guys prep diecast cars for painting with acrylics? I'm about to tackle a police car for the Batman minis game, and I've no idea how to get the enamel paint off (or whether I even need to).
Disassemble then soak metal body in Simple Green. Enough said.
Grimm
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If I do a post apoc build, I leave the paint on as I tend to layer armor on top and it's fine if some detail is obscured. But for something like this, you'll be surprised how much detail those cars have and the think paint covers.... So simple green works great :D
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See you learn something new ever day,stuck between a conversation over the pond lol.
This green I hear speak of(it you don't ask ,you don't know)is just a brand name I've not come accross on this Island off the coast of europe.Or a product I've just never come accross?
Mark.
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Simple Green is a brand name cleaner:
http://simplegreen.com/products/all-purpose-cleaner/
I have it on my desk at the moment (bought it from the hardware store last week, been too lazy to put in the laundry).
You want the concentrate (not the dilute trigger bottle all purpose cleaner). I got this:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/simple-green-2l-all-purpose-cleaner-with-946ml-bottle_p4470270
I use acetone for all metal miniatures, and Simple Green for plastic/mixed media. You'll need to soak the miniature for a few days and the paint comes of. It's better than Dettol and less dangerous than over cleaner (the real toxic stuff I don't think they make anymore).
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Ok, found a good page to show what I'm up against. The stripes are actually the smaller part of the problem. The other issue is how to make that smooth curve at the back and be symetrical. Maybe use a template?
But I thought to lay down yellow on white for the whole car. Tape off the yellow to spray the red. Tape the red on top of the yellow tape, spray the blue. Tape the blue and spray the white.
This is why the project has sat on my shelf for 11 months.....
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The other issue is how to make that smooth curve at the back and be symetrical. Maybe use a template?
My suggestion. Cut out the curves in paper. Check them on the car and mark the locations where contact is made so you have a reference. Use the paper template to cut a hard template out. Use this as your cutting guide for the masking tape. You can create identical masks every time. You get the symmetry by lining up your location markers. Hope that helps.
How do you guys prep diecast cars for painting with acrylics? I'm about to tackle a police car for the Batman minis game, and I've no idea how to get the enamel paint off (or whether I even need to).
The simple green works but I always go for the hard stuff. I take the die cast apart and soak the bodies in paint remover. Then scrub them clean with a tooth brush. A couple of things that you need to remember when doing this. First wear heavy house cleaning gloves. You will get chemical burns if you put bare skin into paint remover and do not clean it off fast enough. Second, after cleaning in the remover and rinsing with water you will need to re clean the whole surface with rubbing alcohol to get the remaining remover off of it. Like I said simple green works. I just like to have it stripped as fast as possible.
Hope that helped.
Snitchy sends.
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That stuff will not be on my shopping list.I kind of like the idea if hold a brush in my mouth while I turn a figure round,my teeth won't fall out when I remove the brush. lol